User Panel
Posted: 10/15/2022 10:55:36 AM EST
What are your thoughts on Push-in (not outlet push-ins!) and Wago connectors vs. the good ole wire nut? Looking at a few projects I plan to do over the winter in an older house, lot of small outlet boxes where wire nuts could quickly crowd up the box, I've always used wire nuts up to this point but after learning a bit more about Push-in and Wago connectors and some of the conveniences they offer I'm leaning that way. I've talked with a few sparky's who love them, others who weren't so keen on them. Anyone had problems using Wago's or had them unlock, seems like they don't unlock too easily and could be taped if you were really worried?
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Taped wire nuts and back-stabbed outlets are the only way to fly.
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I only really use push-ins when there is limited room to fit wire nuts. Wire nuts make great connections if they are used correctly, I am less confident about the connections of push-ins.
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I like taped wire nuts because there is only one connection point - the wires are directly and thoroughly connected together. I'm not apposed to the others, but wire nuts are my first choice. And they're cheap.
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Depends on application. Most general receptacle/light switch home stuff just gets wire nuts. If there are a bunch of ground connections (4+) the wagos can be a great solution especially if you don't have a lot of slack in the wire or room.
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Maybe the Wago fans can explain something to me. I haven't used them, and don't know a lot about them. But they seem to rely on spring tension on the terminals... doesn't that effectively make them about as good long-term as the back-stab/push-in connectors?
Looking at the images I see of how the internal clamps work, they seem (to my armchair-quarterbacking mind) about the same as the push-ins, which would mean they'll be fine now, not so much over time. |
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We don’t use push ins. We use wire nuts, crimped on bolted or split bolts on motors. Wire nuts, lever lock Wagos, or Polaris connectors on other circuits depending on size and application. And terminal blocks and strips of course.
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What is this kind of connection called? I found it in an aftermarket timer of a commercial mixer I bought. Al least there was tape around it.
Attached File |
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Quoted: What is this kind of connection called? I found it in an aftermarket timer of a commercial mixer I bought. Al least there was tape around it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/168740/530BBCC8-779D-4E00-B490-D8740307DAA1_jpe-2563842.JPG View Quote Is it wrong if it works? |
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Depends on what it is and how fast I need to cobble it.
Normally: Household wiring: wire nuts Everything else: solder and heat shrink |
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Quoted: What is this kind of connection called? I found it in an aftermarket timer of a commercial mixer I bought. Al least there was tape around it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/168740/530BBCC8-779D-4E00-B490-D8740307DAA1_jpe-2563842.JPG View Quote Looks like a textbook Florida Man connection, at first I thought it might be a China's best for export only creation but then I noticed one wire was solid strand! |
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Quoted: Quoted: What is this kind of connection called? I found it in an aftermarket timer of a commercial mixer I bought. Al least there was tape around it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/168740/530BBCC8-779D-4E00-B490-D8740307DAA1_jpe-2563842.JPG Is it wrong if it works? The ol "ends justify the means" defense. |
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Quoted: What is this kind of connection called? I found it in an aftermarket timer of a commercial mixer I bought. Al least there was tape around it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/168740/530BBCC8-779D-4E00-B490-D8740307DAA1_jpe-2563842.JPG View Quote Why do u hate ingenuity |
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I really like the Wago connectors. I have a lot of older metal junction boxes = these are f'n small compared to modern boxes. It makes for tight quarters if you have more than two lines. The Wago's let you stack the wires in the junction box very neatly and everything fits inside flat with room to spare vs. a twisted birds nest of wires that have to be pushed in hard just to close the cover.
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Quoted: Looks like a textbook Florida Man connection, at first I thought it might be a China's best for export only creation but then I noticed the wire was solid strand! View Quote No, it's a nice 5qt Hobart mixer. The previous owner had just scabbed a timer box on the side of it and wired it thusly. |
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Quoted: Depends on application. Most general receptacle/light switch home stuff just gets wire nuts. If there are a bunch of ground connections (4+) the wagos can be a great solution especially if you don't have a lot of slack in the wire or room. View Quote Grounds? WAGOs Power? Wirenuts Lighting or Controls? Flip WAGOs Ive seen to many Push-In anythings spontaneously fail to trust them on power circuits. |
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Quoted: I really like the Wago connectors. I have a lot of older metal junction boxes = these are f'n small compared to modern boxes. It makes for tight quarters if you have more than two lines. The Wago's let you stack the wires in the junction box very neatly and everything fits inside flat with room to spare vs. a twisted birds nest of wires that have to be pushed in hard just to close the cover. View Quote Yea that's what I'm dealing with, on a few of them its a miracle anyone was able to get the receptacle screwed down, at one point I thought about replacing some of the boxes for larger ones. |
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Low amperage things I might trust Wago’s. Otherwise wire nuts
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Quoted: How did they fail, metal tab losing tension over time? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Grounds? WAGOs Power? Wirenuts Lighting or Controls? Flip WAGOs Ive seen to many Push-In anythings spontaneously fail to trust them on power circuits. How did they fail, metal tab losing tension over time? Most likely, galvanic corrosion. The internal components are not the same metal as the wire. This is another advantage of wire nuts. |
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Meh...I can take them or leave them. Never liked push-ins though. I usually only run in to those on fixtures...they suck for small stranded wire.
I'll give you a bit of advice on box make-up...no one ever leaves enough wire for what I consider proper make-up. How your wire lays in the box should be a forethought, not an afterthought. |
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wire nut<wago Push-ins don't even fucking rate They're a fire hazard, and if I'm installing anything that has them (light fixtures mostly), I immediately cut them off and use something better.
That said, I usually just use wire nuts. Especially if I have to tie a shit-ton of neutrals together. Seems that a wago connector takes up more room in a gang box than a larger diameter wire nut. |
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Quoted: How did they fail, metal tab losing tension over time? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Grounds? WAGOs Power? Wirenuts Lighting or Controls? Flip WAGOs Ive seen to many Push-In anythings spontaneously fail to trust them on power circuits. How did they fail, metal tab losing tension over time? Literally fall apart in a box. One splice in a random junction box, killing several outlets. Same site, months apart, one time critical systems going offline, and another time some can crushers down. |
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My dad has a shop filled with random hardware. When I moved out, he gave me a “greatest hits” assortment of random useful stuff, including a couple hundred various size wire nuts. I’ve never had to buy a connector, so I’ve never tried any newer designs.
I guess I’m using wire nuts made in the 70s-80s, but they still work fine. |
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Quoted: I really like the Wago connectors. I have a lot of older metal junction boxes = these are f'n small compared to modern boxes. It makes for tight quarters if you have more than two lines. The Wago's let you stack the wires in the junction box very neatly and everything fits inside flat with room to spare vs. a twisted birds nest of wires that have to be pushed in hard just to close the cover. View Quote +1 I like the Wagos for replacing or working on things that are already in the wall. If I'm making something new I'll pull enough not to have to worry about it. |
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Wago makes great stuff but a lever nut seems kind of dumb for something that never gets swapped out. Also, probably more expensive than wire nuts. We use their terminal blocks in our panels, they are awesome.
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Wire nuts, because I bought a couple boxes of different sizes, and still haven't gone through them.
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Wago is best for joining stranded to solid wire - like ceiling fans, light fixtures, etc.
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Wagos for the win. Just ordered a bunch yesterday for my camper solar project.
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Kinda depends on the current. If its low voltage and or low current and in a panel, wagos. Wire nuts are more secure as the the other guy noted above. Also the the push ins suck and only cause its cause you dont have the others. Also, the lever stuff has been in application for years in panels on some contactors, relays, motor starters and terminal strips with no issue, so i see no problem with them as upgrades to wire nuts.
fwiw, the gray plastic style looks more durable than the clear brittle plastic lever styles also, since im concerned that viberation, heat, or oil will eventually break down the polystyrene or whatever the composition of the clear ones are. |
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Not a fan of push ins. A buddy called me to look at some flickering lights at his house as he left to go to work since I had a key. Also said a funny noise was coming from a light switch in a closet. Funny noise was electrical arcing from the circuit home run not making good contact in the back of a push in of a outlet next to the light switch. At this point it had melted 6" of insulation off the wire but not tripped a breaker because the electrical boxes were plastic. It was a very nice older home but the wiring looked tiny and didn't fit into the push in well. I'm sure the entire house was like that.
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I like WAGO lever nuts. You can absolutely see you have enough conductor engaged.
I've done some household wiring with insulation retaining "double crimp" connectors too. If they work with aircraft vibrations, I don't see how they'd be worse than a wire nut in a box. Wire nuts seem crude in comparison |
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If they had used some solder I would be ok with it.
But not like that. Quoted: What is this kind of connection called? I found it in an aftermarket timer of a commercial mixer I bought. Al least there was tape around it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/168740/530BBCC8-779D-4E00-B490-D8740307DAA1_jpe-2563842.JPG View Quote |
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Quoted: If they had used some solder I would be ok with it. But not like that. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: If they had used some solder I would be ok with it. But not like that. Quoted: What is this kind of connection called? I found it in an aftermarket timer of a commercial mixer I bought. Al least there was tape around it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/168740/530BBCC8-779D-4E00-B490-D8740307DAA1_jpe-2563842.JPG It’s like a NASA wire splice but……not |
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Wagos.
If you aren't a moron, wire nuts are fine, too. Wagos do fit better in a box. ETA Lever lock Wago. Nothing push in. |
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Push-in connections are lurking death. I used to List that shit at UL and would NEVER use them in my house.
Back-wire clamp is the way to go. |
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Quoted: That said, I usually just use wire nuts. Especially if I have to tie a shit-ton of neutrals together. Seems that a wago connector takes up more room in a gang box than a larger diameter wire nut. View Quote you do know that it's not legal/code to put more than six wires in a wire nut no matter how big it is right? Only the wire combinations on the packaging are listed and I've only found one wire nut that is listed for seven. Everything else maxes out at six to meet the listing requirements regardless of size. |
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Wire nuts primarily, lever nuts fire alarm type stuff or if job spec or that's what I have on me. Motors, bolted stakon type terminals or Polaris connectors, wire nuts when I have to.
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I think I could probably use a 14thhn off your trailer hitch and hang your F150 from another 14thhn using a harbor freight wire nut... so I'm going with wire nuts. A properly installed wire nut is never going to let go.
Properly installed means NOT pre-twisted. |
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I like wago's for 3+ conductors, wire nut for simple 2 conductor replaceable connection, solder/shrink for permanent splice. I also prefer wire nuts if I'm running stranded instead of solid, easier to assure no stray strands. I tape based on type, black for hots, white for neutrals, green for grounds, but it is more for piece of mind than need.
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Quoted: I think I could probably use a 14thhn off your trailer hitch and hang your F150 from another 14thhn using a harbor freight wire nut... so I'm going with wire nuts. A properly installed wire nut is never going to let go. Properly installed means NOT pre-twisted. View Quote Having said that, they're essentially "illegal" (by that I mean you can't get the various regulatory approvals needed) in medical devices and airplanes. They depend on technique more than other methods and can't be verified/process validated well. If medical device companies could use a 5 cent wire nut instead of a 40 cent crimp connector, they would. |
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