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Posted: 2/22/2019 10:18:49 AM EDT
need to degrees a few parts just want to make sure it wont mess them up for over night soaking
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 10:22:26 AM EDT
[#1]
I am just about positive acetone does not react with aluminum at all.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 10:23:05 AM EDT
[#2]
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 10:23:24 AM EDT
[#3]
No, but a freezer would be better than acetone.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 10:24:41 AM EDT
[#4]
Acetone doesnt. Simple green will though, after long enough exposure.

Degrease, or degrees?
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 10:25:26 AM EDT
[#5]
I use it quite a bit on unanodized 6061 aluminum with no bad effects.  I don't soak parts in it though, so I can't say for certain.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 10:29:07 AM EDT
[#6]
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No, but a freezer would be better than acetone.
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LOL. Nice.

OP, I wouldn't leave anodized soak over night. I've used gallons of acetone on aluminum but never have soaked it so I couldn't guarantee one way or another.

If whatever is on there doesn't come off in a minute or two (or using a brush if it's down it crevices) then it won't come off with acetone. It either is solvent or not.

I've had some gummy stuff that acetone wouldn't dissolve but WD40 would. Solvents are funny like that.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 10:29:57 AM EDT
[#7]
Give it a mercury wash, cleans it right up.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 10:31:05 AM EDT
[#8]
Why an overnight soak?
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 10:32:15 AM EDT
[#9]
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Quoted:

LOL. Nice.

OP, I wouldn't leave anodized soak over night. I've used gallons of acetone on aluminum but never have soaked it so I couldn't guarantee one way or another.

If whatever is on there doesn't come off in a minute or two (or using a brush if it's down it crevices) then it won't come off with acetone. It either is solvent or not.

I've had some gummy stuff that acetone wouldn't dissolve but WD40 would. Solvents are funny like that.
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Good point...…...I have never soaked it in acetone for hours either come to think of it.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 10:46:11 AM EDT
[#10]
I usually use mineral spirits followed by acetone, but on bare metal.  I wouldn't soak it or it might become bare metal.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 10:49:18 AM EDT
[#11]
Use naphtha to degrease. It’s not as harsh and won’t affect anodizing.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 10:54:40 AM EDT
[#12]
Acetone is a fine degreaser for aluminum. The soaking is puzzling. If you're trying to chemically remove oxide I don't think acetone will work, you need acid for that.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 10:57:10 AM EDT
[#13]
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Quoted:
Acetone doesnt. Simple green will though, after long enough exposure.

Degrease, or degrees?
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Degrease, sorry, stupid auto correct or i cant spell worth a crap
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 10:58:25 AM EDT
[#14]
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Quoted:
Why an overnight soak?
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leaving town and want to drop some stripped lowers to durracoat when i get back in a cpl days
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 11:01:13 AM EDT
[#15]
I don't know and don't want to experiment. Smith and Wesson uses a clear coat on their Aluminum J-frames

I am not sure if it may take that finish off if the gun were left in it for a period of time
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 11:05:20 AM EDT
[#16]
Just hose them down with brake cleaner and be done in 30 seconds.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 11:12:09 AM EDT
[#17]
Wouldn't the acetone evaporate pretty quickly?
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 11:13:44 AM EDT
[#18]
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Good point......I have never soaked it in acetone for hours either come to think of it.
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Acetone doesn't like to hang out that long. It is an excellent solvent, I agree with Ridge, if acetone doesn't do the trick in a few minutes with a little elbow grease...try something else.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 11:14:43 AM EDT
[#19]
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Just hose them down with brake cleaner and be done in 30 seconds.
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A lot of the non-chlorinated brake cleaners are acetone, just in a spray can.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 11:18:46 AM EDT
[#20]
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Quoted:
A lot of the non-chlorinated brake cleaners are acetone, just in a spray can.
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That makes sense. I did not know that, but it would explain why it evaporates so quickly.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 11:21:06 AM EDT
[#21]
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Quoted:
leaving town and want to drop some stripped lowers to durracoat when i get back in a cpl days
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Why an overnight soak?
leaving town and want to drop some stripped lowers to durracoat when i get back in a cpl days
A 10 minute acetone soak is usually overkill enough to get the vast majority of greases off. You'll want to bake the solvent off if you want your coating to stick well - the lowest setting on your oven will probably do, just long enough to get the part up to temp. Acetone can irreversibly adsorb into aluminum oxide, so you don't want to soak any more than is necessary, especially if this is an anodized part.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 11:22:39 AM EDT
[#22]
How many "Degrees" does OP have?
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 11:27:39 AM EDT
[#23]
Mix water and Lye, it will come out clean lol
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 11:32:38 AM EDT
[#24]
Acetone has no effect on aluminum.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 11:33:19 AM EDT
[#25]
If it's gunk like diesel soot I found wd40 worked the best. Then hit it with acetone to remove the wd40.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 11:35:30 AM EDT
[#26]
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Quoted:
Mix water and Lye, it will come out clean lol
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this is  a great trick for gummed up bits/blades
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 11:41:08 AM EDT
[#27]
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Quoted:

A 10 minute acetone soak is usually overkill enough to get the vast majority of greases off. You'll want to bake the solvent off if you want your coating to stick well - the lowest setting on your oven will probably do, just long enough to get the part up to temp. Acetone can irreversibly adsorb into aluminum oxide, so you don't want to soak any more than is necessary, especially if this is an anodized part.
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This...

I do a clean rag and spray bottle wipe down for large parts...

Dip for small parts like 10 seconds...

a shake of the part while wearing examination gloves...

If I am painting it I will then use a heat gun set on low at about 12 inches to heat the part up after the part looks like the acetone has evaporated.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 11:43:37 AM EDT
[#28]
Don't make it complicated.  Brake cleaner.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 11:50:30 AM EDT
[#29]
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Quoted:
Wouldn't the acetone evaporate pretty quickly?
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Yes, and generally that is why I don't use it. I use methanol instead.  Acetone evaporates so quickly it cools the piece down too much, and you get condensation (at least down here you do).
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 11:51:25 AM EDT
[#30]
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Quoted:



this is  a great trick for gummed up bits/blades
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And really really BAD for aluminum!
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 12:01:41 PM EDT
[#31]
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Quoted:
A lot of the non-chlorinated brake cleaners are acetone, just in a spray can.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Just hose them down with brake cleaner and be done in 30 seconds.
A lot of the non-chlorinated brake cleaners are acetone, just in a spray can.
I've had brake cleaners and Electrosafe products leave enough of some sort of residue to muck up a finish job. Not sure if it's the propellant, can lining or what.

I always use lab grade acetone but that's mostly because we happen to have it in the shop for cleaning ECM cathodes before applying the masking insulation.

Lowes acetone in the can does fine.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 12:04:29 PM EDT
[#32]
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Quoted:
That makes sense. I did not know that, but it would explain why it evaporates so quickly.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
A lot of the non-chlorinated brake cleaners are acetone, just in a spray can.
That makes sense. I did not know that, but it would explain why it evaporates so quickly.
It evaporates quickly enough to freeze a wasp out of mid air. They wake back up off the floor when they warm up again.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 12:05:35 PM EDT
[#33]
As others have said, acetone will not affect aluminum in it's bare form.  Immersion of anodized aluminum parts that are COLORED might remove the coloration, but probably will not actually remove the anodizing.   (Colored anodizing is just regular anodizing with a dye added.)

Acetone is a plain petrochemical, and as such, will not attack aluminum in any way.

Stuff like Simple Green is NOT a petrochemical.  It has a bunch of organic compounds in it, and as such, can and WILL attack aluminum with prolonged exposure.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 12:08:31 PM EDT
[#34]
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Quoted:
As others have said, acetone will not affect aluminum in it's bare form.  Immersion of anodized aluminum parts that are COLORED might remove the coloration, but probably will not actually remove the anodizing.   (Colored anodizing is just regular anodizing with a dye added.)

Acetone is a plain petrochemical, and as such, will not attack aluminum in any way.

Stuff like Simple Green is NOT a petrochemical.  It has a bunch of organic compounds in it, and as such, can and WILL attack aluminum with prolonged exposure.
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Uh, acetone is an organic compound....
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 12:10:19 PM EDT
[#35]
Acetone's a great mouthwash.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 12:12:30 PM EDT
[#36]
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Quoted:

leaving town and want to drop some stripped lowers to durracoat when i get back in a cpl days
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Wouldn't this be a good reason to rationalize purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner?
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 12:13:55 PM EDT
[#37]
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Quoted:
Uh, acetone is an organic compound....
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Quoted:
As others have said, acetone will not affect aluminum in it's bare form.  Immersion of anodized aluminum parts that are COLORED might remove the coloration, but probably will not actually remove the anodizing.   (Colored anodizing is just regular anodizing with a dye added.)

Acetone is a plain petrochemical, and as such, will not attack aluminum in any way.

Stuff like Simple Green is NOT a petrochemical.  It has a bunch of organic compounds in it, and as such, can and WILL attack aluminum with prolonged exposure.
Uh, acetone is an organic compound....
Makes sense, VOC= volatile organic compound.

That's good to know not to use simple green though, whatever is in it
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 12:16:09 PM EDT
[#38]
Acetone won't remove anodizing.
The dye in colored anodizing is trapped in the pores.

A lot of hard anodizing that is black or dark gray doesn't even have dye. The anodizing process turns it dark.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 12:19:48 PM EDT
[#39]
Acetone will not hurt you anodized aluminium parts.  The break clean we all use is majority acetone and I have used it on lots of finishes.  You really do not need to soak it also soaking it is not the proper way to remove oil.  Start at the highest part of the piece and spray down to get the oil to run off using gravity.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 12:29:31 PM EDT
[#40]
nvm, someone beat me to it
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 12:31:52 PM EDT
[#41]
Quoted:
need to degrees a few parts just want to make sure it wont mess them up for over night soaking
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I am sure college is not required whatsoever.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 12:34:52 PM EDT
[#42]
I use Acetone for aluminum final prep before Tig welding, never a problem.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 12:35:19 PM EDT
[#43]
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Acetone's a great mouthwash.
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No but H2O2 is.

Speaking of acetone and H2O2...

Link Posted: 2/22/2019 12:36:26 PM EDT
[#44]
When I clean motorcycle cases I use WD-40 in the gallon can and a brass brush.  They look like new when I am done.

Acetone is not the best IMO, for really stubborn stains MEK gets the job done, but it probably takes a year or two off your life working with it.

Stay away from aluminum cleaners with ammonia, trace amounts left on the surface will cause some white corrosion in time.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 12:46:26 PM EDT
[#45]
Acetone is fine for both aluminum & anodized aluminum.  It won’t remove the color from properly sealed anodized hard coat, but it will look funky degreased.  The funny, frosty color resolves when you add oil, CLP or some other lube that’s held by anodizing “pores.”

Aluminum is eaten/dissolved in strong acid or mild-strong base, like detergents, Simple Green, dishwasher soap.  In fact, lye bath is a step in anodizing to expose in-anodized aluminum.

As the acetone evaporates, the grease is left.  So soaking for 15-30’ then rinsing with acetone degreases well, but personally, I prefer GunScrubber.
YMMV.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 12:50:07 PM EDT
[#46]
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Quoted:
Acetone won't remove anodizing.
The dye in colored anodizing is trapped in the pores.

A lot of hard anodizing that is black or dark gray doesn't even have dye. The anodizing process turns it dark.
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Hard coat anodized aluminum that is black has certainly been dyed. MIL-A-8625 Type III, Class 1 (hard coat, no dye) will produce a dark color that deepens  with the depth of the anodized surface but is never a true black. Type III, Class 2 is dyed, the dye is only in the porous surface and is usually sealed in after coloring but it is not impervious to all solvents, the reactivity is ph dependent. Parts that have been teflon "sealed" are especially vulnerable since teflon is not actually a sealant.

To answer OP's question, it depends on the alloy. Acetone can attack copper rich aluminum alloys such as 2024. It is also reactive to water, even in the air and can induce pitting when it reacts with some compounds.  I would not soak any aluminum alloy in any solvent for an extended amount of time. If your coating guy is competent he will de-grease your parts prior to coating even if you have prior, just go on your trip and don't worry about them.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 4:38:06 PM EDT
[#47]
I don't see how an organic solvent can react with a metal, but I await an opinion from some sort of either a chemist or a metallurgist.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 5:02:51 PM EDT
[#48]
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Quoted:
I don't see how an organic solvent can react with a metal, but I await an opinion from some sort of either a chemist or a metallurgist.
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Organometallic chemistry is a fascinating topic

There's a wide spectrum of substances covered by "metal" and "organic solvent". For example, alkali metals can dissolve in tetrahydrofuran. Francois Grignard was awarded the Nobel Prize in 1912 for the eponymous reaction involving organomagnesium compounds.

So yes it's possible but gun owners are largely safe from this phenomenon
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 5:10:05 PM EDT
[#49]
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Quoted:
Organometallic chemistry is a fascinating topic

There's a wide spectrum of substances covered by "metal" and "organic solvent". For example, alkali metals can dissolve in tetrahydrofuran. Francois Grignard was awarded the Nobel Prize in 1912 for the eponymous reaction involving organomagnesium compounds.

So yes it's possible but gun owners are largely safe from this phenomenon
View Quote
Thank you.

My statement was too broad, I see.
Link Posted: 2/22/2019 5:23:14 PM EDT
[#50]
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Quoted:

Makes sense, VOC= volatile organic compound.

That's good to know not to use simple green though, whatever is in it
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yes and no, chemically is it volatile(very) and organic (meaning it contains carbon) but from a regulatory standpoint it is not a VOC. Meaning you can use it as a solvent in paints and other coatings and still comply with EPAs lbs/gallon VOC limits on fume emissions.  We went through this at work years ago, many paints got reformulated with acetone and it dramatically effected they way they sprayed. Sometimes they flashed before the paint hit the part, it was almost powder coating. Had to switch up orifice sizes to make them spray well.  Once you figure that stuff out it works fine.
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