Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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Originally Posted By wildearp: On trucks with non adjustable door hinges, I have used a portapower. On my 48, I had to adjust the actual door opening with the hydraulic ram, as it was out of proportion. Also, this I built with a 472 engine: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41996/Blazer_JPG-3172678.jpg OP, those vent boxes that hide under the rear edge of the front fenders is usually a rot monster long before the inner rocker. It looks like yours may be intact, which is an anomaly. Also, I built a couple of these. I trash all of the factory air/heat things and install Vintage Air. They have a kit that is much cleaner than the factory stuff and fits perfectly. Air blows super cold. Yeah, my rocker boxes are pretty good. Nice rig! I find myself looking for a new set of wheels, Looking for 17s. I would like to stay with a 35x12.50 tire. what width and backspacing do I need? this will not be a wheeling machine. Mostly street, with a few prairie dog towns thrown in. |
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well yesterday was a slow day at work, so I was thinking about temperature senders, calibrating my speedometer, and going from a manual oil pressure gauge to electrical, so I don't risk dripping oil in the cab. Temperature sender: The stock button or nail head style sender for these trucks is threaded 1/2"NPT. all newer small blocks are threaded 3/8. The 1/2" one is the only one that will read correctly with the factory gauge, because ohms or something. There is a member over on 67-72chevytrucks.com that is turning down the old style senders and rethreading them to 3/8. There are also people drilling/tapping the hole in the head of their new engines to 1/2". I don't really like either of those options. Calibrating my speedometer: Blueprint wants me to run their 30 weight break in oil for 500 miles. I need a correct speedometer to do this. Also, using Gps speed on my phone and then figuring out what RPM that is... it's a pain. oil pressure line: pretty self explanatory... So I ordered a dakota digital gauge cluster with gps speedo. ![]() Also, the way I figure it, between end of may and mid june I should be able to order new engine and trans. Still waiting on my headers that I ordered ~3 weeks ago. Called Hedman-Hustler yesterday as I didnt get a confirmation email after I ordered, but everything sounds like its all good on their end. So, I need this damn weather to warm up so I can get my engine bay painted. then I can get serious about the motor/trans swap. |
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Originally Posted By The_Wizard_Of_Odd: I love that body style! It’s nice to see survives running around here in the PNW since we don’t use salt but I am just not in any position to own one right now so consider this an OST so that I can live vicariously through you. ![]() I was starting to think I'm just talking to myself in here ![]() Is it bad I'm already looking for a 2wd for my next project? Lol |
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Loving the progress so far Is this what you sprayed the firewall/inner fenders in? Is the exterior going to be the same or different? |
Wake up, wake up and smell the ashes.
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Originally Posted By paranoidredneck: Cool truck!!! Thanks man! Originally Posted By Agilt: Loving the progress so far Is this what you sprayed the firewall/inner fenders in? Is the exterior going to be the same or different? Yeah, firewall, inner fenders, and inner fender wells are body color. |
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Originally Posted By Thealien: just a couple of pictures of my 2 Wheel Dr. blazer for a little inspiration. Following your build you're doing a great job. https://i.postimg.cc/cHvLrNSN/Front_Wilwood.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/QttqyZkJ/floor.jpg Damn, man! Looks great! That will be a sweet rig! I fought with my damn trans kickdown cable/ trans kickdown valve wire for like 3 hours today. That was just dumb. The way it was, the cable wouldn't pull the wire through the hood of the cable, and trying to get pliers between it and the trans housing was a bitch. Finally got it tweaked just right though. Now it just moves freely through the cable housing. Also got trans lines on, had to go to the parts store for an oring for the dipstick tube. Should be getting tci brand trans fluid Tuesday, so I can fill the stall converter, add a few quarts to the trans, and be ready to stab the new motor.
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Lovin’ your build! Sometimes I wish I could get back into this. Just no place to do it since I retired and moved to a smaller home. Now I have to live vicariously through and offer advise to my son building restomod Corvettes. Back on page one you mentioned delegating the charcoal can. I’d put that back on. You’ll be smelling gas fumes all the time without it. Especially if you garage park it. I want to add one to my ‘66 Mustang. |
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Originally Posted By Sorry_Your_Girl_Lost: Great thread OP. I wish I could do just half the body/paint stuff you do. Are you a body guy? What color are you thinking about for the exterior? It'll be same color as the firewall, fenderwells, and inner fenders. Phantom black metallic. I went to school for bodywork 18 years ago, but quickly realized it is a passion, and I didn't want to do it for anyone else. |
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Originally Posted By 68MUDSTUD: Here's a before and after of the rear axle move... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/111611/1000002501-3164256.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/111611/1000002524-3164257.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/111611/1000002526-3164258.jpg Anybody know for sure what this line is for? I'm thinking a fuel vent to a charcoal canister that has been removed. Wtf do I do with it? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/111611/1000002527-3164260.jpg Just remember, if you run it in high water like we do here in the gulf coast, these vent lines can always be repurposed to vent axles and transmissions above the fording depth. This saved me in tropical storm Allison years ago when i had sustained water above the door handles on my XJ. I had everything vented up higher than the cowl. |
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| first real problem... stock trans kickdown cable bracket will not work without heavy modification. stock one bolted to the rear two intake manifold bolts. As you can see, The new engine intake bolts are drilled vertically, instead of the 23* or whatever into the head. Also, the bolt pattern is different. The last two bolts are around 1/2" farther apart than OE. Holley makes a bracket for a 700R4, for the kickdown and throttle cables that bolts to the carb foot. I wonder what the difference is, besides length to the lever on the carb. |
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