3D printers - So many choices! (Page 3 of 5)
|
Bambu continues their gayness https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1w4c385/no_reason_to_remix_on_makerworld_anymore/ |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: Bambu continues their gayness https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1w4c385/no_reason_to_remix_on_makerworld_anymore/ I saw that earlier. In short, if someone post an original model, then multiple people make a remix of that model, if the original model poster clicks "no remixes" it removes all remixes from the site. It still shows up in the remixer's private album, but it won't show for everyone else. |
I ain’t in no ways tired of winning yet!
|
Originally Posted By KELBEAST: The owners of those 10% of Enders swear that all 100% of Ender 3’s work 100% of the time The inability to print with an Ender3 says more about the user than the printer. |
Carpe diem - Seize the day
Carpe per diem - Seize the expense check
Carpe per diem - Seize the expense check
|
Originally Posted By Blob: Bambu continues their gayness https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1w4c385/no_reason_to_remix_on_makerworld_anymore/ While shitty, that pales in comparison to Nozzlegate. It took Prusa a MONTH to acknowledge publicly what they knew about the nozzles not being truly through-hardened steel. And in typical fashion, no fix, and no known fix timeline, as it was found out that Bondtech doesn't have the technological know-how to make induction heated hardened nozzles. Instead, you get to pay $1,100 for an INDX system that cannot even print abrasives with any appreciable lifespan. The only thing worse than having the umpteenth product launch design, is trying to cover it up instead. |
|
Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: While shitty, that pales in comparison to Nozzlegate. It took Prusa a MONTH to acknowledge publicly what they knew about the nozzles not being truly through-hardened steel. And in typical fashion, no fix, and no known fix timeline, as it was found out that Bondtech doesn't have the technological know-how to make induction heated hardened nozzles. Instead, you get to pay $1,100 for an INDX system that cannot even print abrasives with any appreciable lifespan. The only thing worse than having the umpteenth product launch design, is trying to cover it up instead. Your only defense for Bambu is to deflect and shit on Prusa. Classic. And I will reiterate for like, the fourth time, Prusa had nothing to do with the INDX nozzlegate. But yeah go ahead and keep supporting that garbage company who clearly has the 3D printing community's best interests in mind. But muh heated chamber! |
|
Originally Posted By RV8guy: The inability to print with an Ender3 says more about the user than the printer. I would agree. Those were dark days back then, but the early printers sure taught you a lot, or got thrown out the fkn window  The new printers might be like a Tesla with FSD, but the old hippy in the Miata will still drive circles around them
|
|
Originally Posted By Blob: Your only defense for Bambu is to deflect and shit on Prusa. Classic. And I will reiterate for like, the fourth time, Prusa had nothing to do with the INDX nozzlegate. But yeah go ahead and keep supporting that garbage company who clearly has the 3D printing community's best interests in mind. But muh heated chamber! Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: While shitty, that pales in comparison to Nozzlegate. It took Prusa a MONTH to acknowledge publicly what they knew about the nozzles not being truly through-hardened steel. And in typical fashion, no fix, and no known fix timeline, as it was found out that Bondtech doesn't have the technological know-how to make induction heated hardened nozzles. Instead, you get to pay $1,100 for an INDX system that cannot even print abrasives with any appreciable lifespan. The only thing worse than having the umpteenth product launch design, is trying to cover it up instead. Your only defense for Bambu is to deflect and shit on Prusa. Classic. And I will reiterate for like, the fourth time, Prusa had nothing to do with the INDX nozzlegate. But yeah go ahead and keep supporting that garbage company who clearly has the 3D printing community's best interests in mind. But muh heated chamber! "My preferred chinese company sucka less than your preferred chinese company" I say this owning a Qidi... I do wish there was a USA based/built option. Roll your own or build a Voron |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: Your only defense for Bambu is to deflect and shit on Prusa. Classic. And I will reiterate for like, the fourth time, Prusa had nothing to do with the INDX nozzlegate. But yeah go ahead and keep supporting that garbage company who clearly has the 3D printing community's best interests in mind. But muh heated chamber! Why are you so easily offended? Do I need to remind you, for the fourth time, that I've given Prusa more money than you have? And I speak from experience having more hours printing on Prusa printers than you? And more printing time in general than you? And helped you, on multiple occasions now, troubleshoot printing issues that you didn't have the experience to troubleshoot yourself? Or how about just recently when you ran into issues with your precious Vision Miner that is apparently so good can't keep a sheet from warping, and then you miscalculated the magnet's pull strength on your so called solution? You're quick to forget the help offered and like to run your mouth with the same old same old. Don't have a heated chamber. It's cool, I'll continue to roll my eyes when you and the others that refuse to unbury your heads from the sand continue to have issues printing simple filaments because your shit warps off the bed. Not to mention layer adhesion is 25% better moving from 55C to 65C. But then again you are so brainwashed with Prusa, you're used to getting less for more money and probably view this as a sort of virtue. So it's right up your alley.  What a joke. 
|
|
Originally Posted By ManMan: "My preferred chinese company sucka less than your preferred chinese company" I say this owning a Qidi... I do wish there was a USA based/built option. Roll your own or build a Voron I have no preference or loyalty other than I won't support Bambu as a company because of their anti-consumer and anti-hobbyist practices. But muh plug n play! I chose Prusa because they aren't a garbage company. BTW they are Czech, not Chinese. Voron is at the top of the list for my next machine. |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: I have no preference or loyalty other than I won't support Bambu as a company because of their anti-consumer and anti-hobbyist practices. But muh plug n play! I chose Prusa because they aren't a garbage company. BTW they are Czech, not Chinese. Voron is at the top of the list for my next machine. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By ManMan: "My preferred chinese company sucka less than your preferred chinese company" I say this owning a Qidi... I do wish there was a USA based/built option. Roll your own or build a Voron I have no preference or loyalty other than I won't support Bambu as a company because of their anti-consumer and anti-hobbyist practices. But muh plug n play! I chose Prusa because they aren't a garbage company. BTW they are Czech, not Chinese. Voron is at the top of the list for my next machine. That's why I bought my Qidi, at least I have the option of flashing to mainline Klipper It was REALLY tempting to build a Voron... and I probably will next printer |
|
Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Why are you so easily offended? Do I need to remind you, for the fourth time, that I've given Prusa more money than you have? And I speak from experience having more hours printing on Prusa printers than you? And more printing time in general than you? And helped you, on multiple occasions now, troubleshoot printing issues that you didn't have the experience to troubleshoot yourself? Or how about just recently when you ran into issues with your precious Vision Miner that is apparently so good can't keep a sheet from warping, and then you miscalculated the magnet's pull strength on your so called solution? You're quick to forget the help offered and like to run your mouth with the same old same old. Don't have a heated chamber. It's cool, I'll continue to roll my eyes when you and the others that refuse to unbury your heads from the sand continue to have issues printing simple filaments because your shit warps off the bed. Not to mention layer adhesion is 25% better moving from 55C to 65C. But then again you are so brainwashed with Prusa, you're used to getting less for more money and probably view this as a sort of virtue. So it's right up your alley. What a joke. Seems like you are the one that's offended considering this rant.  |
|
another vote for elegoo centauri carbon 2. its prints are comparable to everything at the 1000$ level, but costs 400$. it has a lot of the features that the others don't have - like failed print detection. the best part is that all of it is open source. that means bambu or prusa or whatever can't ever fuck you. you are truly free to do whatever you want, whenever you want. it also has the highest nozzle temperature, meaning it can print many more exotics than the bambu series. much like the youtube reviews, i can vouch that it is printing way above its cost. the last few years it seems like all the growing pains have really been worked out (at bambu's cost). elegoo is basically learning from bambu's problems. the print consistency has improved - bambu will still print failures every few prints but elegoo won't. this might largely be due to nozzle management - elegoo will now wipe 4 times and do a test smear to make sure none of the weird stringing that causes spaghetti occurs. one time the nozzle cover came off while i was changing spools. instead of wasting 4 hours of print time to destroy both the print and the nozzle head, elegoo simply stated 'cover removed, secure to continue'. |
|
Originally Posted By 797hp: That’s the one I’m looking at https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1966031-REG/bambu_lab_pf004_p_sa007_us_x2d_combo_3d_printer.html Originally Posted By 797hp: Originally Posted By KonamiCode: Waiting until black Friday to pull the trigger on a Bambu X2D. That’s the one I’m looking at https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1966031-REG/bambu_lab_pf004_p_sa007_us_x2d_combo_3d_printer.html |
“I don’t want to ‘stand in solidarity’ with the other side… I want to defeat the godless ideology that… murdered Charlie Kirk.”
|
Originally Posted By Blob: Does Bambu parkerize under the gas block? |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
|
Originally Posted By pavami: another vote for elegoo centauri carbon 2. its prints are comparable to everything at the 1000$ level, but costs 400$. it has a lot of the features that the others don't have - like failed print detection. the best part is that all of it is open source. that means bambu or prusa or whatever can't ever fuck you. you are truly free to do whatever you want, whenever you want. it also has the highest nozzle temperature, meaning it can print many more exotics than the bambu series. much like the youtube reviews, i can vouch that it is printing way above its cost. the last few years it seems like all the growing pains have really been worked out (at bambu's cost). elegoo is basically learning from bambu's problems. the print consistency has improved - bambu will still print failures every few prints but elegoo won't. this might largely be due to nozzle management - elegoo will now wipe 4 times and do a test smear to make sure none of the weird stringing that causes spaghetti occurs. one time the nozzle cover came off while i was changing spools. instead of wasting 4 hours of print time to destroy both the print and the nozzle head, elegoo simply stated 'cover removed, secure to continue'. Well hell! Been watching the bambu/prusa stuff and trying to evaluate THAT.. Now this! It sounds like they've slid in at a price point that a newbie like me may find very difficult to resist. Sounds like the Carbon 2 would be one very solid unit for good quality cans and plenty of other stuff too. Not looking for a continuous use machine, just one that is dependable and makes safe to use 2A stuff.. Any bambu or prusa guys have an opinion on these particular models. Is the chamber hot enough to make the carbon fiber stuff properly? Any issues that would make it a bad choice? Can of worms, I know, but the knowledge base here is damn wide.. |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: Seems like you are the one that's offended considering this rant. I just find what you do as intellectually dishonest seeing as how you know certain facts but choose to ignore them. More head-in-sand activity. Like the fact that Bambu's software is actually open source. How Bambu printers can be ran in offline mode with zero issue and zero risk to spying. How, ironically, Prusa's network plugin that interfaces with its web servers are closed source, identical to Bambu's setup. Yet Bambu is the shit company, and Prusa is praised for being open-sourced, when their licensing methodology is literally identical. For the record, Bambu also employs 5x as many Americans as Prusa does, but we'll just ignore that fact too. I'm also still waiting for you to make good on your offer for free CAD classes. I only stopped because you spent the entire time shitting on mine saying you could do it better. Well. We have a lot of people here waiting, soo..... One of us has been consistently helping and offering advice to everyone, even those who hate me because I own Bambu products, and I even offer advice that is honest when a Bambu product isn't the right call. Like the P1S, or even the P2S. Yet, zero credit given. Just more intellectual dishonesty. Just gets old. I'm at least balanced, and I speak of both the good and bad of ALL companies and ALL products, because people are smart enough to hear the facts, the pros and cons of those sets of facts, and make their own INFORMED decision. You'd rather just ignore the shit you don't like, and then say "China" like it's the be all end all, when literally half of your beloved printer is made there regardless. To anybody out there that wants to print 2A, just do yourself a favor and ask your favorite AI if 50C or if 65C is better for stronger 2A prints with PA6-CF. 50C is about what you can get out of a stock Prusa that you paid double for. You can get 55C IF you insulate the enclosure, AND crank the bed up super high, AND let it sit for 30 minutes to an hour before you start the print. Even so, almost nobody can achieve the 60C Prusa claims. Don't take my word for it. Do the research yourself. It's all out there. Then, read how easy it is to get 65C on a Bambu, or frankly, any printer that has a dedicated chamber heater. It's fast, it's efficient, it's easy, and it's factually better in every regard. I'm not having to insulate a printer. I don't have to crank the bed insanely high, and I don't have to wait ages. I can control the chamber temp and the bed temp independently, so all Nylon alloys (including low bed/high chamber varieties) are on the table. You can run it in offline mode, completely disconnected from the internet. Just do research, all this is out there if you're willing to look past all the nonsense and dishonesty spewed out there trying to defend a company that is flailing and failing slowly because they refuse to actually listen to their user base. That is why I stopped buying Prusa. That and the poor supply chain management and bait and switch tactics on empty promises is why I canceled my XL order and instead opted for an H2D. It's why Rat canceled his XL order and built a Voron. I was a loyal user of Prusa and have literally a hundred chats with their CS. The fact is there are a few flaws not only with their printers, not only with their capabilities, but also with their needless CS loops and ridiculous requests when trying to prove defective parts for replacement. I had to record and upload a dubbed over 30 minute video to once prove their mainboard failed. Just to get a replacement that I took 7 hours of chat to prove I did every troubleshooting step they have asked of me, with a picture for every single step as proof. This complaint is common too if you care to search for it. I have nearly 5k hours on my Bambus and I've never once had to reach out to them. Maybe I'll be disappointed if I do. Maybe I won't. Truth is, their parts are so cheap I'd probably not even worry about it as time is money, but when you're Prusa and you're charging $200 for a 16 bit main board and the Bambu mainboard is $60 despite being 32 bit and having 10x the computing power, you realize that maybe the value equation doesn't necessitate kick ass service even if it did suck, as they deliver far greater value in other ways. Their reward system is also more lucrative if you are a designer. I have a few models on MakerWorld and make about $50/mo passively in store credit. I had even more models on printables, and in 3 years, never earned even a $20 credit. MakerWorld actually invests in the community and encourages participation. Which is probably why it's already the largest model repository in the world, and gets more web traffic than Printables. I've owned both, I've printed tens of thousands of hours, and for my printing needs, it's not even close. Bambu is the better option. If you want to not buy Bambu on principle even after knowing that you'll have to compromise strength, will deal with occasional failed prints, and will pay double for the privilege, fine, your choice, your money. And in that case I'd let you know that you can buy a US made phone too and avoid the Chinese built one you currently have (or Vietnamese if you have a Samsung). |
|
Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: I just find what you do as intellectually dishonest seeing as how you know certain facts but choose to ignore them. More head-in-sand activity. Like the fact that Bambu's software is actually open source. How Bambu printers can be ran in offline mode with zero issue and zero risk to spying. How, ironically, Prusa's network plugin that interfaces with its web servers are closed source, identical to Bambu's setup. Yet Bambu is the shit company, and Prusa is praised for being open-sourced, when their licensing methodology is literally identical. For the record, Bambu also employs 5x as many Americans as Prusa does, but we'll just ignore that fact too. I'm also still waiting for you to make good on your offer for free CAD classes. I only stopped because you spent the entire time shitting on mine saying you could do it better. Well. We have a lot of people here waiting, soo..... One of us has been consistently helping and offering advice to everyone, even those who hate me because I own Bambu products, and I even offer advice that is honest when a Bambu product isn't the right call. Like the P1S, or even the P2S. Yet, zero credit given. Just more intellectual dishonesty. Just gets old. I'm at least balanced, and I speak of both the good and bad of ALL companies and ALL products, because people are smart enough to hear the facts, the pros and cons of those sets of facts, and make their own INFORMED decision. You'd rather just ignore the shit you don't like, and then say "China" like it's the be all end all, when literally half of your beloved printer is made there regardless. To anybody out there that wants to print 2A, just do yourself a favor and ask your favorite AI if 50C or if 65C is better for stronger 2A prints with PA6-CF. 50C is about what you can get out of a stock Prusa that you paid double for. You can get 55C IF you insulate the enclosure, AND crank the bed up super high, AND let it sit for 30 minutes to an hour before you start the print. Even so, almost nobody can achieve the 60C Prusa claims. Don't take my word for it. Do the research yourself. It's all out there. Then, read how easy it is to get 65C on a Bambu, or frankly, any printer that has a dedicated chamber heater. It's fast, it's efficient, it's easy, and it's factually better in every regard. I'm not having to insulate a printer. I don't have to crank the bed insanely high, and I don't have to wait ages. I can control the chamber temp and the bed temp independently, so all Nylon alloys (including low bed/high chamber varieties) are on the table. You can run it in offline mode, completely disconnected from the internet. Just do research, all this is out there if you're willing to look past all the nonsense and dishonesty spewed out there trying to defend a company that is flailing and failing slowly because they refuse to actually listen to their user base. That is why I stopped buying Prusa. That and the poor supply chain management and bait and switch tactics on empty promises is why I canceled my XL order and instead opted for an H2D. It's why Rat canceled his XL order and built a Voron. I was a loyal user of Prusa and have literally a hundred chats with their CS. The fact is there are a few flaws not only with their printers, not only with their capabilities, but also with their needless CS loops and ridiculous requests when trying to prove defective parts for replacement. I had to record and upload a dubbed over 30 minute video to once prove their mainboard failed. Just to get a replacement that I took 7 hours of chat to prove I did every troubleshooting step they have asked of me, with a picture for every single step as proof. This complaint is common too if you care to search for it. I have nearly 5k hours on my Bambus and I've never once had to reach out to them. Maybe I'll be disappointed if I do. Maybe I won't. Truth is, their parts are so cheap I'd probably not even worry about it as time is money, but when you're Prusa and you're charging $200 for a 16 bit main board and the Bambu mainboard is $39 despite being 32 bit and having 10x the computing power, you realize that maybe the value equation doesn't necessitate kick ass service even if it did suck, as they deliver far greater value in other ways. Their reward system is also more lucrative if you are a designer. I have a few models on MakerWorld and make about $50/mo passively in store credit. I had even more models on printables, and in 3 years, never earned even a $20 credit. MakerWorld actually invests in the community and encourages participation. Which is probably why it's already the largest model repository in the world, and gets more web traffic than Printables. I've owned both, I've printed tens of thousands of hours, and for my printing needs, it's not even close. Bambu is the better option. If you want to not buy Bambu on principle even after knowing that you'll have to compromise strength, will deal with occasional failed prints, and will pay double for the privilege, fine, your choice, your money. And in that case I'd let you know that you can buy a US made phone too and avoid the Chinese built one you currently have (or Vietnamese if you have a Samsung). Jeez 
|
|
Originally Posted By oulufinn: Well hell! Been watching the bambu/prusa stuff and trying to evaluate THAT.. Now this! It sounds like they've slid in at a price point that a newbie like me may find very difficult to resist. Sounds like the Carbon 2 would be one very solid unit for good quality cans and plenty of other stuff too. Not looking for a continuous use machine, just one that is dependable and makes safe to use 2A stuff.. Any bambu or prusa guys have an opinion on these particular models. Is the chamber hot enough to make the carbon fiber stuff properly? Any issues that would make it a bad choice? Can of worms, I know, but the knowledge base here is damn wide.. No, if you don't buy the most expensive machine on the market so you can print your toys at 100% maximum optimal parameters then you're just wasting your time. I mean, it's a wonder how any printer in the age before chamber heaters was able to crank out working prints at all. Maybe they actually didn't and we've just been lied to this whole time. IDK. But somehow all my printed guns and suppressors just keep going even though they have 25% lower layer adhesion even though they were printed in a 65c chamber even though I don't have chamber heat. It's a Christmas miracle I tell you! |
|
Originally Posted By Dr-G: So overall it sounds like Bambu is a good choice for entry level and then some. I may go to the Carbon version. Maybe I will wait until Black Friday. 
|
“I don’t want to ‘stand in solidarity’ with the other side… I want to defeat the godless ideology that… murdered Charlie Kirk.”
|
Originally Posted By Jack_Dempsey: You’ll probably end up wishing you got dual nozzles, if that’s not what you get at the start. multi nozzell is pretty much required if you want to do any real printing. the cost difference between the h2d and h2c made the c a no brainer for me. |
|
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer: multi nozzell is pretty much required if you want to do any real printing. the cost difference between the h2d and h2c made the c a no brainer for me. Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer: multi nozzell is pretty much required if you want to do any real printing. the cost difference between the h2d and h2c made the c a no brainer for me. Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer: multi nozzell is pretty much required if you want to do any real printing. the cost difference between the h2d and h2c made the c a no brainer for me. The H2D, at least at the time if H2C's launch, had MUCH faster nozzle swap time. A minute vs 9 seconds. This allowed the H2D to print much, much faster than the H2C and for two color printing the H2D was far superior. That said Bambu took the feedback and said they were working to get the two times closer together. I haven't seen an update and do not own the H2C (I opted for the H2D for the soeed) so curious how fast they have been able to make it. Bambu does a fantastic job of listening to their consumers and implementing changes pretty rapidly. Just things in the past year ish: Faster AMS. Heated AMS. Heating while printing. Low power heating. TPU compatibility. Calibration built into BBS. A way to automate and enable one AMS to feed either nozzle. Allowing third party firmware. CAD to Slicer color persistence. Full offline capability via Developer mode. Auto PLA to PETG flushing compensation and tower optimization. The list goes on. They also released the H2D, H2C, and A2L at the request of the community. The community most recently asked for multi toolhead. Well, patents for the so called "H2X" have been filed. They innovate a lot, and listen. That's worth something to me. |
|
Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: The H2D, at least at the time if H2C's launch, had MUCH faster nozzle swap time. A minute vs 9 seconds. This allowed the H2D to print much, much faster than the H2C and for two color printing the H2D was far superior. That said Bambu took the feedback and said they were working to get the two times closer together. I haven't seen an update and do not own the H2C (I opted for the H2D for the soeed) so curious how fast they have been able to make it. Bambu does a fantastic job of listening to their consumers and implementing changes pretty rapidly. Just things in the past year ish: Faster AMS. Heated AMS. Heating while printing. Low power heating. TPU compatibility. Calibration built into BBS. A way to automate and enable one AMS to feed either nozzle. Allowing third party firmware. CAD to Slicer color persistence. Full offline capability via Developer mode. Auto PLA to PETG flushing compensation and tower optimization. The list goes on. They also released the H2D, H2C, and A2L at the request of the community. The community most recently asked for multi toolhead. Well, patents for the so called "H2X" have been filed. They innovate a lot, and listen. That's worth something to me. retract time for the ams units is the biggest time sink for that. |
| I've been wanting to pick up a 3D printer because I'm sure I'll find uses for it once I learn it's capabilities, but I don't have any "I need to print this" projects. I always jump into these threads for guidance then end up being more confused than I was to begin with. |
|
I had an Ender 3 for years, got tired of tinkering with it so kept upgrading it. Eventually it ran really well (for an Ender 3). Last winter I bought an Elegoo Centauri Carbon. Night and day difference. More accurate, far faster. Didn't like the idea of the whole Bambu environment |
|
That Elegoo Carbon 2 mentioned is available on eBay with the 20% Labor Day discount they have running. The combo kit comes out to $320 with code... Someone explain why I should not buy this? I've been reading for a couple of days and probably should just make the purchase to learn as I go, but I also want to make sure to get everything I need at once. I'd be printing some reloading items and hopefully a few silencers. https://www.ebay.com/itm/800154196915?var=657313065526 |
|
Originally Posted By ishootglocks: That Elegoo Carbon 2 mentioned is available on eBay with the 20% Labor Day discount they have running. The combo kit comes out to $320 with code... Someone explain why I should not buy this? I've been reading for a couple of days and probably should just make the purchase to learn as I go, but I also want to make sure to get everything I need at once. I'd be printing some reloading items and hopefully a few silencers. https://www.ebay.com/itm/800154196915?var=657313065526 jmho here take it for what it is. no active chamber heater. if you want to do abs or other temp controlled filaments you could have warping issues. i have not had good luck relying on bed heat to properly control chamber temps and they take awhile to heat properly. limited to only 4 filaments. if you get into color printing thats going to quickly become a limitation. my average is 5-7 colors filaments mount external in the open. no drying option. i always run the ams heater for drying during printing even with basic pla. if you live in a humid area this could be an issue. while it will do engineering filaments they typically need to be well dried and in a controlled environment during printing. that means you going to add an external dryer and hope you can print from it. back to the external open filaments. by the time you add a filament dryer and chamber heater you are at the price of a better model. when i bought my x1c with AMS i figured i'd never need more than 4 filaments. i found out i was wrong on day 2 of ownership. luckily i can add multiple AMS units. I run 3 on my h2s and use the x1c for single filament prints now. my recomendation is don't settle, buy more printer than you think you need. these aren't cheap and finding out 6 months later you should have spent 2-300 more to get what you really needed now becomes a 700.00 upgrade to a new printer. if all you will ever need is 4 filaments, don't live in a humid area, and don't plan to use high end filaments this will be fine. i suspect you like everyone else that started in this hobby will find those limitations quickly. |
|
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer: jmho here take it for what it is. no active chamber heater. if you want to do abs or other temp controlled filaments you could have warping issues. i have not had good luck relying on bed heat to properly control chamber temps and they take awhile to heat properly. limited to only 4 filaments. if you get into color printing thats going to quickly become a limitation. my average is 5-7 colors filaments mount external in the open. no drying option. i always run the ams heater for drying during printing even with basic pla. if you live in a humid area this could be an issue. while it will do engineering filaments they typically need to be well dried and in a controlled environment during printing. that means you going to add an external dryer and hope you can print from it. back to the external open filaments. by the time you add a filament dryer and chamber heater you are at the price of a better model. when i bought my x1c with AMS i figured i'd never need more than 4 filaments. i found out i was wrong on day 2 of ownership. luckily i can add multiple AMS units. I run 3 on my h2s and use the x1c for single filament prints now. my recomendation is don't settle, buy more printer than you think you need. these aren't cheap and finding out 6 months later you should have spent 2-300 more to get what you really needed now becomes a 700.00 upgrade to a new printer. if all you will ever need is 4 filaments, don't live in a humid area, and don't plan to use high end filaments this will be fine. i suspect you like everyone else that started in this hobby will find those limitations quickly. Good reasons, thank you. I was looking at filament dryers when you posted this - humidity is most definitely a concern. |
|
i have a creality 4 bay dryer. it works well and you can print from it while drying. i don't use it much since the AMS units have built in heaters. but your now at another 150-200 for a dryer. keep in mind printing from these is not the same as a powered AMS type unit. think of it more as feeding a single print head. they will not retract and respool. it's a pull only. to run 4 colors from one of these your need 4 separate print heads. 1 dedicated to each spool. for the one you are looking at it's going to be used only to dry and them mount the filaments on the printer for multi color. It take 4-12 hours to dry filament. |
|
Originally Posted By cucamelsmd15: For real. The purse swinging in this thread is entertaining if nothing else. Originally Posted By cucamelsmd15: Originally Posted By VacaDuck: Why am I starting to have flashbacks to the DPMS vs Armalite fights? Damn shame too. There are some very knowledgeable people here that could share some valuable info if they put their personal biases aside. 
|
Life's battles don't always go to the stronger or faster man. In the end, the one who wins is the one who thinks he can! - SCI, NRA
Team Ranstad
Team Ranstad
|
I've been close to pulling the trigger on the Bambu Lab - P2S AMS Combo The X2D Combo isn't much more, though. I'm not educated enough to know the difference. |
|
Originally Posted By Martlet: I've been close to pulling the trigger on the Bambu Lab - P2S AMS Combo |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
| I just got a Bambu earlier this summer. Honestly I've been floored with how easy and seamless everything has been, especially for the price on sale. I have horrible memories of college ~8-10 years ago from machines that cost 3x (at the time) producing plastic spaghetti 4 times for every print that came out recognizable. This has been pretty much 100% plug and play. Granted, I've only messed with PLA and low-stress parts so far, but again, stupid easy. |
|
Originally Posted By LedZeppelin: I just got a Bambu earlier this summer. Honestly I've been floored with how easy and seamless everything has been, especially for the price on sale. I have horrible memories of college ~8-10 years ago from machines that cost 3x (at the time) producing plastic spaghetti 4 times for every print that came out recognizable. This has been pretty much 100% plug and play. Granted, I've only messed with PLA and low-stress parts so far, but again, stupid easy. Which model did you get? |
|
Originally Posted By Martlet: What's the learning curve between the X2D and the P2S for someone who has never touched a 3D printer? Spend some time in the 3D Printing forum here. Excellent info there. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
| About two months ago I bought a Qidi Q2 combo...my first filament printer. I have a cheap resin printer, so in some ways I was familiar with the file formats, slicing, supports, etc. I wanted the option to print filaments that needed higher heat, and had all the necessary parts to deal with the more abrasive filaments. I've been using ASA-CF20 to print an RC model. As a "noob" I can say there was a learning curve, especially with all the adjustments and tweaks. I've had some failures, mostly due to the slicer overlooking obvious places that needed supports, and me missing them. The Qidi has some quirks, and documentation is limited. I've been using AI to help with settings, but it will lie to you or contradict itself if you ask it the same question a few days later. There is a cloud based program that works with Orca (a slicer) that checks your setting...there is a monthly fee. I am getting better with adjusting things, and adapting to my printer and the feed system. Printers are like an AR-15, there are many, many things you can tweak...but to improve quality, print slower, so that "faster" print that takes four hours but looks like crap or fails ends up taking 10 hours to get it just right...or longer. Then you are sweating bullets hoping nothing fails while you are asleep or NA. My advice, get the cheapest printer that does what you want it to do...and the easiest to use since you are starting out. Expect some issues and learn from them. Don't expect perfection...especially for some of the more engineering type filaments. |
|
Originally Posted By Martlet: I've been close to pulling the trigger on the Bambu Lab - P2S AMS Combo The X2D Combo isn't much more, though. I'm not educated enough to know the difference. I have an H2D and P2S.....I bought the P2S about a month before the X2D launched.....I wish I'd have waited and got the X2D instead. Either the active chamber heater or the 2nd nozzle for support interface material would be worth the price increase on their own.....both make it a no brainer buy vs the P2S. |
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
|
Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: I'm also still waiting for you to make good on your offer for free CAD classes. I only stopped because you spent the entire time shitting on mine saying you could do it better. Ok I actually read a few sentences of this post and stopped here. I honestly have no clue where you came up with this?? I maybe said like two things the entire time and that was just to clarify a couple of functions that you were demonstrating. I never, ever shit on you and never, ever said I could do it better. I believe the session was recorded too, no? Care to review it and show me the clip? Or I could tag all the folks that were there and ask if they recalled these events happening. In fact after the meeting you sent me a PM thanking me for the input. Why the hell would you thank me if you thought I was shitting on you? Crazy that you would conjure up something like this. Absolutely fucking insane. |
|
Have an H2D. Its great. If you want to do any 2A printing- you want a heated chamber. I run mine in LAN mode and use orca slicer. You can really fine-tune the filament settings in orca. The machine is capable of prints that look borderline injection molded. However- The nozzle cooling fan has a finite service life (couple thousand hours, ballpark) and when you have to change it.. Well, alls I can say is it isnt for the faint of heart. Its a PITA. Worth it, overall, but I dont look forward to ever doing it again. Maintanance in general on the H2D looks like itll make me want to pull my hair out. Thankfully, the nozzle fan is the only major thing Ive had to do. Replaced the right side hotend once as well, it was a little tedious but nothing like that stupid fan. The hotend replacement was necessary because of user error. (sometimes Im a dumbass) Guys, just about all of these things are made in the PRC. If you dont want them scanning your prints or stealing your data, run it all in offline mode on a LAN. Problem solved. Yeesh. Bambu is plug and play, and is overall the best value if you want to print things out of materials like PPA-CF. Until somebody comes out with a consumer grade option thatll print PEEK reliably, these things are where its at. |
|
Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: lol. No. Lol. Yeah. If all you can do is press a button then you'll have some struggles the first time it doesn't turn out. Kinda like how you learn to reload on a single stage before you go to a automated Dillon 1050. Gotta know the basics. My ender 3 has printed batter than any prusa printed part I've ever handled. That's a big statement when prusa was considered the gold standard for a long time. Most guncad is also designed around having a printer such as an ender 3. I've been using my ender 3 for 2A prototyping for almost a decade. |