3D suppressors (Page 1 of 11)
Posted: 2/25/2026 4:24:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mvintx][Edited]
| Looking at submitting a Form 1 and printing one for rimfire. Are there any designs that are better than others? A little confused about connecting a threaded metal adaptor to a plastic part. Plan to use PLA Pro in P2S printer. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: A little confused about connecting a threaded metal adaptor to a plastic part. This cut-away shows the thread adaptor on the end.  |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: I used my own design. I used a metal 1/2-28 to 5/8-24 thread adaptor, modeled the 5/8th threads into the print, and then coated the threads and underside of the flange with JB weld epoxy and screwed it in. I put the serial number on the outside flange/lip of the metal adaptor, all other markings are modeled into the print. This cut-away shows the thread adaptor on the end. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/157876/54hj-3687245.png I need to do this... |
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Originally Posted By Blob: FTN.5 Consider using PA6-CF. PLA will work but it will erode much quicker. I have considered it. I thought I'd make a few out of PLA+ as an experiment before using CF. Certainly cheaper to learn with. And I wanted to thank you for your 3D2A FAQs. Very informative and a big help to a newb like myself. Waiting on my AMS HT before trying some PETG (not for 3D2A prints). What about drying PLA? Should I bother? |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: I have considered it. I thought I'd make a few out of PLA+ as an experiment before using CF. And I wanted to thank you for your 3D2A FAQs. Very informative and a big help to a newb like myself. Waiting on my AMS HT before trying some PETG (not for 3D2A prints). What about drying PLA? Should I bother? I haven't run across a filament that doesn't benefit from drying. I dry everything. |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: I used my own design. I used a metal 1/2-28 to 5/8-24 thread adaptor, modeled the 5/8th threads into the print, and then coated the threads and underside of the flange with JB weld epoxy and screwed it in. I put the serial number on the outside flange/lip of the metal adaptor, all other markings are modeled into the print. This cut-away shows the thread adaptor on the end. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/157876/54hj-3687245.png Why did you put the serial number on the adaptor? I would think re-using it would be difficult with all the JB weld on it. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Why did you put the serial number on the adaptor? I would think re-using it would be difficult with all the JB weld on it. |
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Found this suppressor on guncad. Sliced off the top 1/4 just to see how it printed with PLA+ (Sunlu). The threads are there but most of the hole is filled with filament. They are also undersized, measuring about .470". Yes, I know that's the inner diameter of the thread. It will not screw on to a barrel. The body of the suppressor section is almost completely filled with filament. Instead of a round hole there is a small square. Some questions; Has this file been sabotaged? Are the threads undersized because I didn't dry the filament. Humidity is 33% here. There were no printing instructions. Could it be that my printing parameters are to blame? I used a .2 mm layer height 2 walls 100% top surface density 15% sparse infil density screenshot of the cap on Bambu Studio; 
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Originally Posted By mvintx: ...guncad... So, assuming it's not caused by some support settings or something added in the slicer on your end, assume the worst. As for the threads being the exact size, again that leads from many of those designs being untested and/or made by naive creators that don't understand you need clearances for 3D printed parts. At least for tight threads, you could always use a tap to chase them out if need be. Otherwise, get off of FedCAD and use the Gun Cad Index, use designs that have good feedback and a lot of support, and good instructions included with the files.  What's the name of the file? I'd take a look at it. |
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IMHO, the metal adapters are because people direct print threads without calibration, and so they're tough to thread on and off. They still work fine, and better-designed threads are a very good fix to that problem. "But muh alignment". I would say that adding the metal part isn't going to help alignment to any extent, and actually offers a small chance for slightly worse alignment, depending on the quality of your part. But the metal adapters would certainly make it spin on and off the barrel quite nicely. "But muh heat" the heat from the barrel is going to soak right through that metal to the suppressor, idk if you're helping at all. "But muh strength". Direct-print 1/2*28 threads are not the weak part in a 3dp suppressor. Once you pick your model, submit 10 form 1s, and then print 10 of them. At $2.50-$3.00 each plus a few minutes for each form, print them like they were disposable. Or, go all in. Design one where you can insert a metal blast baffle as it prints, and use high end filament. Personally, if you can keep your rate of fire reasonable, I don't really know if a $20 high-tech filament will make one that lasts terribly longer than 8-10 made from pla plus/pro. If you can't control rate of fire, then definitely go for the best filament you can print with. Also, you can always go caveman and club the problem, using thicker baffles and more of them to allow for more erosion over time. Also, k baffles will be more robust than simple cones. I'm still waiting on my approvals, but others have said that they got direct-print engraving approved, so IDK if there's any reason to serialize a metal part. The ftn suppressors have had a good bit of iterative design, with multiple cycles of design, testing, and feedback, so they're a very decent option to start with. |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: So, assuming it's not caused by some support settings or something added in the slicer on your end, assume the worst. As for the threads being the exact size, again that leads from many of those designs being untested and/or made by naive creators that don't understand you need clearances for 3D printed parts. At least for tight threads, you could always use a tap to chase them out if need be. Otherwise, get off of FedCAD and use the Gun Cad Index, use designs that have good feedback and a lot of support, and good instructions included with the files. What's the name of the file? I'd take a look at it. maga 22 can v1.stl I looked at a bunch of files on Guncad and this one seemed to be 'an easy one' to print. I thought about tapping the threads out, then I thought "why not resize the object x % and see if the threads fit". It's all part of the fun of learning Bambu Studio. I did add support because when I sliced the part, it said I needed it. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: maga 22 can v1.stl I thought about tapping the threads out, then I thought "why not resize the object x % and see if the threads fit". It's all part of the fun of learning Bambu Studio. I did add support because when I sliced the part, it said I needed it. Be sure that you only resize in x/y, not z (if printing vertical), and that trick works, and only a very small percent is generally needed. If you pull out the solid modeling programs, you can also add a small chamfer to the opening to help get the threading started. |
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Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: IMHO, the metal adapters are because people direct print threads without calibration, and so they're tough to thread on and off. They still work fine, and better-designed threads are a very good fix to that problem. "But muh alignment". I would say that ain't the metal part isn't going to help alignment to any extent, and offers a chance for slightly worse alignment, depending on the quality of your part. "But muh heat" the heat from the barrel is going to soak right through that metal to the suppressor, idk if you're helping at all. "But muh strength". Direct-print 1/2*28 threads are not the weak part in a 3dp suppressor. Once you pick your model, submit 10 form 1s, and then print 10 of them. At $2.50-$3.00 each plus a few minutes for each form, print them like they were disposable. Or, go all in. Design one where you can insert a metal blast baffle as it prints, and use high end filament. Personally, if you can keep your rate of fire reasonable, I don't really know if a $20 high-tech filament will make one that lasts terribly longer than 8-10 made from pla plus/pro. If you can't control rate of fire, then definitely go for the best filament you can print with. Also, you can always go caveman and club the problem, using thicker baffles and more of them to allow for more erosion over time. Also, k baffles will be more robust than simple cones. I'm still waiting on my approvals, but others have said that they got direct-print engraving approved, so IDK if there's any reason to serialize a metal part. The ftn suppressors have had a good bit of iterative design, with multiple cycles of design, testing, and feedback, so they're a very decent option to start with. I like your idea about filing a bunch of Form 1s and like you said, I've got to pick the right model. This was my first attempt at one. I know I'm treading on thin ice without a Form 1 but there's only one way to find out if a model is practical. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: maga 22 can v1.stl I looked at a bunch of files on Guncad and this one seemed to be 'an easy one' to print. I thought about tapping the threads out, then I thought "why not resize the object x % and see if the threads fit". It's all part of the fun of learning Bambu Studio. I did add support because when I sliced the part, it said I needed it. Also, I'd recommend upping your wall count to 6 and printing with 100% linear/rectilinear infill for this sort of thing. And then, printing very fine threads like this will always be a bit of a challenge. You can play with very small scaling changes in the X and Y directions and do test prints of only the threaded end to see how it comes out. All that being said, I'm not sure how I feel about this model you're trying to use. I like the concepts of it with the big outer cavity for trapping gas and some of the geometry inside, but the thickness of the outer wall for most of it's length is only like 4 wall layers. Being that thin will probably mean it flexes and could lead to cracks from the pressure spike. |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: but the thickness of the outer wall for most of it's length is only like 4 wall layers. Being that thin will probably mean it flexes and could lead to cracks from the pressure spike. So could it be as simple as increasing the wall thickness to make it a viable can? |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: So could it be as simple as increasing the wall thickness to make it a viable can? 22s are very easy to suppress effectively and if you're using it on a rifle length then the pressures involved are going to be low enough it will probably be fine the way it is designed. That said, print an FTN.5 instead. |
| I have been printing threaded rings that I modeled in Fusion to test how they work. Nothing would work at first. So I modeled up a 20mm cube and when I printed, it measured 19.89x19.89x20. the 20 was in the Z axis. I started messing with the Shrinkage percentage number in the Filament settings in Bambu Studio. It's not perfect yet, but really close. I can thread a PLA piece on to a 1/2x28 now, but it is a bit tight. I still have some things to tweak. I also changed it to print outside first. |
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Originally Posted By JKrammes: I have been printing threaded rings that I modeled in Fusion to test how they work. Nothing would work at first. So I modeled up a 20mm cube and when I printed, it measured 19.89x19.89x20. the 20 was in the Z axis. I started messing with the Shrinkage percentage number in the Filament settings in Bambu Studio. It's not perfect yet, but really close. I can thread a PLA piece on to a 1/2x28 now, but it is a bit tight. I still have some things to tweak. I also changed it to print outside first. If you were printing external threads, outer-inner would have the potential to be better, but on internal threads, it has the potential to make things worse. When the printer prints that final ring on the inside, since the outer shells are already there, it constrains the squished bead of molten plastic, and can under some circumstances make it ooze slightly further toward the inside. |
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Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: If you were printing external threads, outer-inner would have the potential to be better, but on internal threads, it has the potential to make things worse. When the printer prints that final ring on the inside, since the outer shells are already there, it constrains the squished bead of molten plastic, and can under some circumstances make it ooze slightly further toward the inside. From a printing perspective how is an internal thread any different than an external thread? They are both compromised of crests and roots. Inner/outer should perform better on both due to the steeper overhang angle. |
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Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: If you were printing external threads, outer-inner would have the potential to be better, but on internal threads, it has the potential to make things worse. When the printer prints that final ring on the inside, since the outer shells are already there, it constrains the squished bead of molten plastic, and can under some circumstances make it ooze slightly further toward the inside. Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Originally Posted By JKrammes: I have been printing threaded rings that I modeled in Fusion to test how they work. Nothing would work at first. So I modeled up a 20mm cube and when I printed, it measured 19.89x19.89x20. the 20 was in the Z axis. I started messing with the Shrinkage percentage number in the Filament settings in Bambu Studio. It's not perfect yet, but really close. I can thread a PLA piece on to a 1/2x28 now, but it is a bit tight. I still have some things to tweak. I also changed it to print outside first. If you were printing external threads, outer-inner would have the potential to be better, but on internal threads, it has the potential to make things worse. When the printer prints that final ring on the inside, since the outer shells are already there, it constrains the squished bead of molten plastic, and can under some circumstances make it ooze slightly further toward the inside. I'll try changing it. The part I'm printing has both internal and external threads. I have not tested the external threads yet. |
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Originally Posted By JKrammes: I'll try changing it. The part I'm printing has both internal and external threads. I have not tested the external threads yet. Originally Posted By JKrammes: Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Originally Posted By JKrammes: I have been printing threaded rings that I modeled in Fusion to test how they work. Nothing would work at first. So I modeled up a 20mm cube and when I printed, it measured 19.89x19.89x20. the 20 was in the Z axis. I started messing with the Shrinkage percentage number in the Filament settings in Bambu Studio. It's not perfect yet, but really close. I can thread a PLA piece on to a 1/2x28 now, but it is a bit tight. I still have some things to tweak. I also changed it to print outside first. If you were printing external threads, outer-inner would have the potential to be better, but on internal threads, it has the potential to make things worse. When the printer prints that final ring on the inside, since the outer shells are already there, it constrains the squished bead of molten plastic, and can under some circumstances make it ooze slightly further toward the inside. I'll try changing it. The part I'm printing has both internal and external threads. I have not tested the external threads yet. Also... I think that the shrinkage setting only affects the outer perimeter, not anything inside of their. "X-Y hole compensation" might help with those. If you're really trying to dial in tight tolerances, flow calibration might be needed as well. I'm kind of curious, I'm going to do some tests. |
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Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Also... I think that the shrinkage setting only affects the outer perimeter, not anything inside of their. "X-Y hole compensation" might help with those. If you're really trying to dial in tight tolerances, flow calibration might be needed as well. I'm kind of curious, I'm going to do some tests. Shrinkage would have to change the entire part. A 0.5% shrinkage factor on a part 200mm long is a difference of 1mm. If it only affected the perimeters then you'd have a 1mm gap between the infill and perimeters. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Shrinkage would have to change the entire part. A 0.5% shrinkage factor on a part 200mm long is a difference of 1mm. If it only affected the perimeters then you'd have a 1mm gap between the infill and perimeters. I'm just learning to dial this in. Not really sure what to change next. My 20mm cube prints at 20.02 now. I'll change the inner-outer back and see if that changes anything. |
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Originally Posted By JKrammes: I'm just learning to dial this in. Not really sure what to change next. My 20mm cube prints at 20.02 now. I'll change the inner-outer back and see if that changes anything. Originally Posted By JKrammes: Originally Posted By Blob: Shrinkage would have to change the entire part. A 0.5% shrinkage factor on a part 200mm long is a difference of 1mm. If it only affected the perimeters then you'd have a 1mm gap between the infill and perimeters. I'm just learning to dial this in. Not really sure what to change next. My 20mm cube prints at 20.02 now. I'll change the inner-outer back and see if that changes anything. Oh baby. I printed a couple of 10mm thick test pieces, measured dimensions, and calculated shrinkage and hole compensation values. Then I made a quick 10mm thick hexagon in fusion with a 1/2" hole, threaded 1/2-28 2b, and sliced it up with the calculated values. Threads right on to a barrel nice and easy. I torqued it down pretty decently with a wrench, no stripping or slipping at all, nice and slick. Try that combo. Shrinkage is a percent, hole compensation is a linear value (like "+0.15mm"). |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Shrinkage would have to change the entire part. A 0.5% shrinkage factor on a part 200mm long is a difference of 1mm. If it only affected the perimeters then you'd have a 1mm gap between the infill and perimeters. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Also... I think that the shrinkage setting only affects the outer perimeter, not anything inside of their. "X-Y hole compensation" might help with those. If you're really trying to dial in tight tolerances, flow calibration might be needed as well. I'm kind of curious, I'm going to do some tests. Shrinkage would have to change the entire part. A 0.5% shrinkage factor on a part 200mm long is a difference of 1mm. If it only affected the perimeters then you'd have a 1mm gap between the infill and perimeters. That would be true, if the slicer were dumb. But slicers figure out inner/outer shells, then create infill according to those dimensions. Just for fun I printed a part with a hole, then printed it again with shrinkage set. Outside dimensions changed, the dimensions of the through-hole did not. |
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Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Oh baby. I printed a couple of 10mm thick test pieces, measured dimensions, and calculated shrinkage and hole compensation values. Then I made a quick 10mm thick hexagon in fusion with a 1/2" hole, threaded 1/2-28 2b, and sliced it up with the calculated values. Threads right on to a barrel nice and easy. I torqued it down pretty decently with a wrench, no stripping or slipping at all, nice and slick. Try that combo. Shrinkage is a percent, hole compensation is a linear value (like "+0.15mm"). Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Originally Posted By JKrammes: Originally Posted By Blob: Shrinkage would have to change the entire part. A 0.5% shrinkage factor on a part 200mm long is a difference of 1mm. If it only affected the perimeters then you'd have a 1mm gap between the infill and perimeters. I'm just learning to dial this in. Not really sure what to change next. My 20mm cube prints at 20.02 now. I'll change the inner-outer back and see if that changes anything. Oh baby. I printed a couple of 10mm thick test pieces, measured dimensions, and calculated shrinkage and hole compensation values. Then I made a quick 10mm thick hexagon in fusion with a 1/2" hole, threaded 1/2-28 2b, and sliced it up with the calculated values. Threads right on to a barrel nice and easy. I torqued it down pretty decently with a wrench, no stripping or slipping at all, nice and slick. Try that combo. Shrinkage is a percent, hole compensation is a linear value (like "+0.15mm"). How are you calculating the shrinkage and hole values? I found a video on changing the shrinkage and just copied his number because it was almost the same offset as mine. |
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Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: That would be true, if the slicer were dumb. But slicers figure out inner/outer shells, then create infill according to those dimensions. Just for fun I printed a part with a hole, then printed it again with shrinkage set. Outside dimensions changed, the dimensions of the through-hole did not. The entire part scales with shrinkage, not just the perimeters. Here's a quick demo of a block with some holes. Original: Attached File Same part sliced with an exaggerated 10% shrinkage factor: Attached File You can see the holes get larger and shift position along with the perimeters expanding. The reason you didn't see a change in the hole diameter in your part is probably because it was a relatively small hole to start with and the shrinkage factor was small. A 5mm hole with a 0.5% shrinkage factor is only going to change .025mm. How did you measure the hole diameter? If you used the ID jaws on a pair of calipers, be aware that is an extremely inaccurate way to measure a hole. |
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Originally Posted By JKrammes: How are you calculating the shrinkage and hole values? I found a video on changing the shrinkage and just copied his number because it was almost the same offset as mine. You print a part of known size and then measure it after it's cooled. If your part is supposed to be 20mm and you measure it to be 19.8mm, you take 19.8 divided by 20 and get 0.99. Enter 99% as the shrinkage factor in the filament profile. It's better to use a much larger sample to reduce the percentage error caused by measurement uncertainty. I use a 100mm piece. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: You print a part of known size and then measure it after it's cooled. If your part is supposed to be 20mm and you measure it to be 19.8mm, you take 19.8 divided by 20 and get 0.99. Enter 99% as the shrinkage factor in the filament profile. It's better to use a much larger sample to reduce the percentage error caused by measurement uncertainty. I use a 100mm piece. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By JKrammes: How are you calculating the shrinkage and hole values? I found a video on changing the shrinkage and just copied his number because it was almost the same offset as mine. You print a part of known size and then measure it after it's cooled. If your part is supposed to be 20mm and you measure it to be 19.8mm, you take 19.8 divided by 20 and get 0.99. Enter 99% as the shrinkage factor in the filament profile. It's better to use a much larger sample to reduce the percentage error caused by measurement uncertainty. I use a 100mm piece. Thanks. |
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Submitted a Form 1 for a FTN5 so the wait begins. I went to all the trouble to drive 80 miles for some .EFT fingerprints and they still want two old-fashioned fingerprint cards. I guess so they can see my fingerprints are consistently lousy. 73 years of working with my hands has taken it's toll. While we're on the subject of cans, any recommends for a .30 cal printed suppressor? I only see 5.56 and 9mm in their selections. Hogs visited my front yard last night and dug up my septic leach field. I'm set up for tonight with alarms and a wireless camera but my 6.8 is awful loud on my front porch. Damn hogs did same thing to my front yard several years ago. Put up a fence and they haven't tried it again...yet. 
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Originally Posted By Blob: PLA Boi recommends the FTN.4 with the aluminum sleeve reinforcement. Interesting. Doesn't say what caliber but I suppose you could use a jobber bit and drill it to 5/16". Would this be a PA6 CF build? How does CF hold up to a drill or reamer? |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Interesting. Doesn't say what caliber but I suppose you could use a jobber bit and drill it to 5/16". Would this be a PA6 CF build? How does CF hold up to a drill or reamer? There's a whole folder full of 30 cal versions in the pack. They are intended for PA6-CF yes. |
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I dug a little further into the FTN5 download and holy crap, there is a bunch of stuff that I missed. That guy did a helluva lot of work. I'm assuming when he mentions Breek he's talking about the screw-in QD attachment. Pricey at $270 but then your only spending a few $ on the can itself. I'm about to try printing some PA6 CF. Ordered some Fiberon and the cheaper Sunlu to try first. Thining about drying it in my PID-controlled powder coating oven. Would that be OK or should I do the heated bed method? And I got two of the hogs last night but woke everyone up in the house. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: I dug a little further into the FTN5 download and holy crap, there is a bunch of stuff that I missed. That guy did a helluva lot of work. I'm assuming when he mentions Breek he's talking about the screw-in QD attachment. Pricey at $270 but then your only spending a few $ on the can itself. I'm about to try printing some PA6 CF. Ordered some Fiberon and the cheaper Sunlu to try first. Thining about drying it in my PID-controlled powder coating oven. Would that be OK or should I do the heated bed method? And I got two of the hogs last night but woke everyone up in the house. There are a couple mounting options available. The KAK is quite a bit cheaper I believe. If your oven can hit 100C then use that. |
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I just bit the bullet and bought a Sunlu E2 for my drying needs, since it'll be necessary for pa6-cf and can't hurt for PLA and ABS. Just waiting for my approval before testing baffle stacks. Once I get the first approval I'll submit half a dozen for various .22 and 9mm cans I plan to make. |
Participation in the rights of citizenship presumes participation in the duties of citizenship
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Originally Posted By Blob: There are a couple mounting options available. The KAK is quite a bit cheaper I believe. If your oven can hit 100C then use that. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By mvintx: I dug a little further into the FTN5 download and holy crap, there is a bunch of stuff that I missed. That guy did a helluva lot of work. I'm assuming when he mentions Breek he's talking about the screw-in QD attachment. Pricey at $270 but then your only spending a few $ on the can itself. I'm about to try printing some PA6 CF. Ordered some Fiberon and the cheaper Sunlu to try first. Thining about drying it in my PID-controlled powder coating oven. Would that be OK or should I do the heated bed method? And I got two of the hogs last night but woke everyone up in the house. There are a couple mounting options available. The KAK is quite a bit cheaper I believe. If your oven can hit 100C then use that. I'm going to go with the YHM SRx mini muzzle brake. It gives larger threads than a direct thread, gives some blast reduction for the first printed baffle without blowing out the sides, and compatibility for standard HUB mounts |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: I just bit the bullet and bought a Sunlu E2 for my drying needs, since it'll be necessary for pa6-cf and can't hurt for PLA and ABS. Just waiting for my approval before testing baffle stacks. Once I get the first approval I'll submit half a dozen for various .22 and 9mm cans I plan to make. @CFletch Keep us up to date on the process. |
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I'm getting ready to file a second Form 1 for a suppressor. I've attached photos of the filament, the printer, and a screenshot of the FTN5 rimfire. The description I entered is "Silencer will be 3D printed with materials sourced from Amazon. Serial number embedded at required depth and size". Do I need to add anything else or am I telling them too much? |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: I'm getting ready to file a second Form 1 for a suppressor. I've attached photos of the filament, the printer, and a screenshot of the FTN5 rimfire. The description I entered is "Silencer will be 3D printed with materials sourced from Amazon. Serial number embedded at required depth and size". Do I need to add anything else or am I telling them too much? |
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Originally Posted By mitsuman47: Tagged for a response. I hope all of that info isn't required. Last time I sent off an F1 for a can was pre-41f and I just told them the length and caliber. They're cracking down on solvent trap kits so they want to see pictures of materials and blueprints to make sure you aren't already in possession of an unregistered suppressor. I sent in basically the same info as OP and I'm waiting on approval still. It should be fine but I heard of rejections for less. |
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Originally Posted By mitsuman47: Tagged for a response. I hope all of that info isn't required. Last time I sent off an F1 for a can was pre-41f and I just told them the length and caliber. I think you'll be ok. I sent in a picture of my printer and for the description I wrote "3D printer go brrr" and it was approved in a little over a month. ETA, I meant to quote @mvintx |
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I'm told printing PA6CF should be done slow and hot and I've followed that advice on a few test pieces...the last one took 13 hours @ 30 mm/s. I even went to the trouble of annealing the piece for 12 hours at 100° and am very satisfied with the result. The FTN 4.5 PCC at approx 200 grams is going to take 25 hours at the same speed. This is on a P2S and I'd like to know if anyone else has printed a similar sized object at that speed. Interested if your print times are similar. And another question...for you guys using a washer for your Form 1 cans, how are you engraving them? Found these guys online, wondered if anyone has used them. https://www.cultivatedlaser.com/product/nfa-form-1-suppressor-engraving-service-washer-dog-tag-or-aluminum-tube-engraving-laser-precision-marking/ Zerozerothree |
3D suppressors (Page 1 of 11)
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