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For the clutch pedal stop... I ran into the same thing. Auto trans car that I converted over to manual.
There’s a threaded hole in the pedal support to mount the stop. I just used a piece of angle iron (that I boxed IIRC), glued a small piece of old mud flap to the contact point, done deal. |
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Suspension finally shipped.
Should be here next week and will hopefully be installed by next weekend. Engine has been in and out 2 or 3 times while checking clearances. Made power steering lines tonight and would have engine detached from the cherry picker but I have to take passenger side long tube out to have O2 sensor bung welded. Once I have header welded I will be able to install the header and move onto the transmission and starter. Also get to start working on putting wiring back into the car. Once I have the suspension installed I can measure for drive shaft. Waiting on radiator still along with output shaft for transmission. Kinda wishing I went with the Super Sniper which has 5v outputs and an additional 3 inputs for gauges from various senders. |
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Originally Posted By uglygun: Sexy rear end time. Gonna clean up underside of chassis tomorrow and throw a coat of paint on it. Then get the brackets all lined up and get the rear end installed. https://i.imgur.com/goXfHsb.jpg https://i.imgur.com/BJZg7JA.jpg View Quote 31 spline axles? 35s? |
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Originally Posted By uglygun: 31s For my power levels there is no way I am hurting this thing. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By uglygun: Originally Posted By ch3no2: 31 spline axles? 35s? 31s For my power levels there is no way I am hurting this thing. If you ever run slicks, don’t let it wheel hop. Don’t ask me how I know |
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Originally Posted By ch3no2: If you ever run slicks, don’t let it wheel hop. Don’t ask me how I know View Quote It will probably ever only run street legal track tires. And I am betting it will never wheel hop due to being a 3 link with a road course style suspension. Rear end is together, gonna get her on the ground tomorrow to measure pinion angle after getting ride height close. Gonna check the lower control arm links(at middle setting out of 3 available settings at the axle). Then gonna check brake lines for any clearance issues and then set the watts link. Hopefully have neighbor girl come over to borrow her foot while I bleed the brakes and the hydraulic clutch while looking for leaks. I have all my fluids ready to go in. Nearly finalized on wiring. Slip yoke comes in on monday. May be able to measure for drive shaft and have one made this week. Have a 3 inch X pipe ready to adjust to fit then have flanges welded and set up for bolting to the super comps. When I got tired of laying on the ground today I took die grinder with abrasive wheel and cleaned up some of interior floor boards. Painted them then stuck some sound deadener on them. Got a few more spots of that shit to do and can probably stick interior back in. Identified one thin area of passenger floorboards that rusted pretty good. Will wait for body work to address that at a future date. STILL WAITING ON GODDAMN RADIATOR. Have called place twice in two weeks with same story of shit is coming and claim they will call back. As soon as the engine comes in I need to get this fucker fired up and broken in. |
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Looking good!!
But where's the goddamn radiator??? |
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Wanted: Cool sig line. Apply within.
Call sign: Cinderblock |
Originally Posted By MoBigAl: Looking good!! But where's the goddamn radiator??? View Quote Ordered/billed on March 24th. Parts backorders/shortages hit me right in the dick I guess. Have reached out to company twice and they said they would call back and never did. Gonna try again later today. |
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Measuring for drive shaft tonight to have it made locally.
1-2 week estimate for the drive shaft at 425 dollar estimate for aluminmum 2ith dual 1350 spicer joints. Got call back on radiator. 2-3 week estimate as they actually have their supply inventory now to start making the kits. |
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Looking good. What master cylinder did you use?
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Originally Posted By funnelcake: Looking good. What master cylinder did you use? View Quote For my brakes it is one of the fox/SN95 master cylinders. There are 3 different varieties and I forget which one it is. There is like a 15/16, 1 inch, and 1 1/8 bore diameter. It also has an internal proportioning valve for the rear circuit. For the clutch it is a wilwood unit. |
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Drive shaft is in. Working on adjusting the parking brakes now.
Radiator was supposed to ship last week but on a call to the company they tell me the cores that came in were automatic radiators that were packed in boxes marked manual... So here I go again on a 1-3 week wait. Likely starting the car this weekend to confirm oiling to the heads/valvetrain while setting timing. Starting to look for seats. Found a place that seems to get S550 seats in regularly and does not charge an arm and a leg trying to resell them. Also considering BRAUM seats which seem to be signifigantly thinner allowing for lower seat mount height which is a problem using modern seats. Braum seats may let me avoid having to modify the seat riser. |
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Just out of curiosity, who’s building your radiator?
PM if you’d rather not throw them under the bus |
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Originally Posted By ch3no2: Just out of curiosity, who’s building your radiator? PM if you’d rather not throw them under the bus View Quote Autoworks out of SanDiego. It isnt entirely their fault given the damn parts availability/covid bullshit. The parts come in when they come in. Have lucked out with a lot of my build in terms of getting shit and not waiting. Canceling only to go with some other option carries the risk of just dealing with the bullshit all over again. Video of how kit installs |
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Originally Posted By uglygun: Latest addon, 3 3/4 autometer tach. https://i.imgur.com/e2NgUMj.jpg 3inch black widow mufflers came in and damn they are nice. New hood hinges came in along with hood pins. Will order hood next week and cross my fingers radiator is here by this wed at latest. View Quote 'glass Shelby hood, or ? |
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Maier racing 67 style but has an extended rise. Really dont want a cowl induction hood, feel it ruins the lines too much.
Hood Also going to do a GT350 style gravel shield but with provisions to retain the bumper like in the photo. |
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Called muffler shop today to see if Thurs is open.
Said he is available. Told him what I have and what I want to put in. His comment was "oh god it is gonna be loud". LULZ will be had. I am planning on my radiator not shipping this week so likely having the car towed to the shop |
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My deal is carbureted... so it’s an apples to oranges comparison.
750 cfm mechanical secondaries; quite a lot of carb for (only) 333 cubic inches. Vic Jr single plane, 236*@.050 After a lot of experimentation (and tuning), I wound up timing the secondaries to start coming in at 60% throttle. But once they start, they snap open pretty damn quick. Really fattened up the low-end torque. Crisp stoplight-to-stoplight throttle response. WFO is still there for when I want it |
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Originally Posted By ch3no2: My deal is carbureted... so it’s an apples to oranges comparison. 750 cfm mechanical secondaries; quite a lot of carb for (only) 333 cubic inches. Vic Jr single plane, 236*@.050 After a lot of experimentation (and tuning), I wound up timing the secondaries to start coming in at 60% throttle. But once they start, they snap open pretty damn quick. Really fattened up the low-end torque. Crisp stoplight-to-stoplight throttle response. WFO is still there for when I want it View Quote How does the motor in general run in lower RPM bands and street cruising with that big of a carb? Pretty hot set up with a single plane and a big ass carb. |
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: How does the motor in general run in lower RPM bands and street cruising with that big of a carb? Pretty hot set up with a single plane and a big ass carb. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Originally Posted By ch3no2: My deal is carbureted... so it’s an apples to oranges comparison. 750 cfm mechanical secondaries; quite a lot of carb for (only) 333 cubic inches. Vic Jr single plane, 236*@.050 After a lot of experimentation (and tuning), I wound up timing the secondaries to start coming in at 60% throttle. But once they start, they snap open pretty damn quick. Really fattened up the low-end torque. Crisp stoplight-to-stoplight throttle response. WFO is still there for when I want it How does the motor in general run in lower RPM bands and street cruising with that big of a carb? Pretty hot set up with a single plane and a big ass carb. Surprisingly snappy and crisp, but it took a lot of work (tuning) to get it there. Wideband O2 gauge is your friend I’ve resized and/or modified the idle feed restrictors, the power valve channel restrictors, all four air bleeds, both shooters and their respective cams. Four hole spacer helps strengthen the vacuum signal to the boosters. Jetting was easy compared to all that other crap. I get away with it because: wide-ratio Toploader (2.78 first gear), 3.70 rear gear in a lightweight car. It spools up quick. This motor would not be near as happy in something heavier, and would need a fairly loose converter (and probably a deeper rear gear) to work with an auto transmission. |
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Originally Posted By uglygun: Definite possibility and will toy with it a bit over next few days. Car has a shit balancer on it with like no timing marks at all and the pointer is gone as well. So probably look into a balancer/pully then get the pointer and a proper base timing. Then check distributor advance. Car will probably drive fairly nice after all that. View Quote |
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callmenoshie: "saying that females have the potential to be "bat shit crazy" is like saying the sky has the potential to be blue."
XCRmonger: "I've seen German Shit Porn that was sexier." |
Originally Posted By ch3no2: Surprisingly snappy and crisp, but it took a lot of work (tuning) to get it there. Wideband O2 gauge is your friend I’ve resized and/or modified the idle feed restrictors, the power valve channel restrictors, all four air bleeds, both shooters and their respective cams. Four hole spacer helps strengthen the vacuum signal to the boosters. Jetting was easy compared to all that other crap. I get away with it because: wide-ratio Toploader (2.78 first gear), 3.70 rear gear in a lightweight car. It spools up quick. This motor would not be near as happy in something heavier, and would need a fairly loose converter (and probably a deeper rear gear) to work with an auto transmission. View Quote You're a fucking wizard! |
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: You're a fucking wizard! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Originally Posted By ch3no2: Surprisingly snappy and crisp, but it took a lot of work (tuning) to get it there. Wideband O2 gauge is your friend I’ve resized and/or modified the idle feed restrictors, the power valve channel restrictors, all four air bleeds, both shooters and their respective cams. Four hole spacer helps strengthen the vacuum signal to the boosters. Jetting was easy compared to all that other crap. I get away with it because: wide-ratio Toploader (2.78 first gear), 3.70 rear gear in a lightweight car. It spools up quick. This motor would not be near as happy in something heavier, and would need a fairly loose converter (and probably a deeper rear gear) to work with an auto transmission. You're a fucking wizard! Nah. Just good at 100 year old technology Although I do have a few tricks up my sleeve (ahem) using a wideband O2 meter is almost like cheating. I wish I had wideband 30 years ago. It takes (most of) the black magic voodoo out of carburetor tuning. Now it’s data collection and calculations vs. seat-of-your-pants/plug reads/trial & error. Although there’s still plenty of the latter |
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: I got mine out to our new home this past Saturday. I stopped by the old house on Friday afternoon (still on the market) and did a short drive to heat up the new gears for it's first heat cycle and then parked it overnight. Next day after loading it up I let me son take it a mile down the road in the new neighborhood to put another heat cycle on the gears. It's really a great improvement over the old worn out 4:11's I had in there. This is the first time anyone other than me has driven it. He was ecstatic about how great everything was working in harmony. Power steering, power brakes, hydraulic clutch, clutch adjustment, etc... He hardly noticed the too small of shifter boot constantly pulling the trans out of gear. That's my next fix, I think along with a new 02 sensor. I think running it early on without an exhaust system fouled it up to the point it won't act like it is tuning properly. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/2894/MFQvD2.jpg All tucked away in it's new bedroom.... https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/1503/v83OSj.jpg View Quote Similar bedroom. Just with a bunch of additional crap |
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Originally Posted By ch3no2: Similar bedroom. Just with a bunch of additional crap https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277622/5E701174-9B09-4710-B928-69F7954190C7-1989680.jpg View Quote All my crap is to the left and way out in front of the car just out of the pic. |
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Originally Posted By uglygun: Had the car towed down to exhaust shop to have 3 inch dual pipes and xpipe with the blackwidows installed. 100 bucks to flat bed it down and flatbed it back plus 250 for the pipes to be bent/welded/hung. Have about a 20 deg turn down just past the pinion to keep any dust that is blown from being to big of an issue. Went to drive my 95 Cobra to work today and blew up the clutch cable. Managed to limo it home in first gear and back it into the garage by basically starting in gear. New clutch cable wont be in until mid July for the 95. Have an old radiator for my 95 up in the attic and I think I am gonna pull it down to use for break in. Hook up two hoses to it and run it. If it starts getting hot due to no fans to force air I will just use a garden hose across the front to carry heat away. Just need overtime to cancel so I can work on it. View Quote Good price on the exhaust work Plumbing that ‘95 radiator... will need to get creative with the lower hose. But hell yeah, I’d do it |
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Originally Posted By ch3no2: Good price on the exhaust work Plumbing that ‘95 radiator... will need to get creative with the lower hose. But hell yeah, I’d do it View Quote Not at all. Radiator outlet is same side. Mezier electric water pump has the intake coming in from drivers side. Just need a long 90 to hook around the belt for the power steering pump but it's a high angle. |
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Found my valve tick.
#2 cylinder had some valve lash that needed sorting given these are hydraulic roller lifters. Gonna check lash on all the lifters and retighten. Tomorrow I will do round two of break in. Will get a walk around of the car after start up tomorrow. Gonna run her for 15-20 minutes while I check timing and work on sensors/settings. Neighbor girl can stand by with a hose cooling radiator off to keep car in 180-200deg range. Car snaps to life super quick when you goto start it. Partial throttle has it rev extremely easy. |
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Ran car 20 minutes today between 1500-3000 rpm.
Started getting a lot of smoke from headers. Found leak that looks like it is from corners of intake manifold. Had torqued it down but thinking heat cycles loosed the bolts as things expanded between steel block/aluminum heads/aluminum intake. Retorqued everything while it was hot. Gonna let cool over night then dry the hell out of everything tomorrow to rerun the engine and see if it does same shit or if it has gone away. If it comes back but much less of an issue then I will pull the intake and do a reseal and bolt that shit down and watch it like a hawk retorquing during heat cycle. Also need to adjust clutch better. Getting a grind going into reverse so thinking clutch is sticking slightly or not fully disengaging. |
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Originally Posted By uglygun: Also need to adjust clutch better. Getting a grind going into reverse so thinking clutch is sticking slightly or not fully disengaging. View Quote Without going back and reading the thread again, which trans are you running? I had the same issue with my T-5z until I did some reading and saw where on a new trans especially, you need to put it into 5th gear first and then pull down into reverse. Something about shit inside spinning and pushing the shifter up into 5th first will stop the spin and allow reverse to go right in. Since I started doing this I no longer get the nasty grind. |
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Without going back and reading the thread again, which trans are you running? I had the same issue with my T-5z until I did some reading and saw where on a new trans especially, you need to put it into 5th gear first and then pull down into reverse. Something about shit inside spinning and pushing the shifter up into 5th first will stop the spin and allow reverse to go right in. Since I started doing this I no longer get the nasty grind. View Quote Yeah I am hoping it is the new clutch dragging on the pressure plate and fly wheel causing the input shaft to spin. If that is happening then reverse wont be happy unless you bring the whole thing to a stop by using the syncros of one of the forward gears. Will play with bouncing it into another gear befor goi g into reverse. 5hey probably recommend 5th because it is so close to reverse there is not enough time for it to spin up again like going from 1st to reverse. Gonna try running car again tonight to see if my leaks are largely done. If they are may strip intake and redo gaskets/silicone paying special attention to the damn corners. Had a tiny bit of coolant that squeezed out of gasket surface area near #1 intake runner as I retorqued the bolts for the intake so that tells me it very slightly lifted. |
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When mine was on the stand I torqued the intake down. Next day, had to do it again. Came back a week later, had to do it again. I think I went through 4 torque sessions before installing the engine and then had to do it after it warmed up the first time. No more since then though. How the hell a mechanic gets these things to stay torqued down after a repair is beyond me.
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Yeah I am thinking I will need to pull intake to redo gaskets.
Better piece of mind if I know I got a good squish and seal on the RTV. The idea that I have had a leak, even if it went away getting full torque on the intake, suggests to me the leak will just come back since it has already wet the block/mating surfaces once before. |
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God damn it.
It is the bad case scenario. Cometic head gasket didnt reach up to where the block/head meet at corner of the intake manifold. Not sure how we missed it while building the goddamn engine. I torr the intake off tonight and laid a flashlight in lifter valley. Could catch light shining through a nearly 1/4 inch long by 1/32 gap at all 4 corners. Looks like I get to remove all the accesories and yank the cylinder heads... Fuckin found a felpro review on Summitracing showing the exact problem that somebody else had. Gonna order new head gaskets and hopefully have engine buttoned up by monday. |
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Well if that ain't a gotdamned punch in the gut, nothing is.
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Originally Posted By uglygun: God damn it. It is the bad case scenario. Cometic head gasket didnt reach up to where the block/head meet at corner of the intake manifold. Not sure how we missed it while building the goddamn engine. I torr the intake off tonight and laid a flashlight in lifter valley. Could catch light shining through a nearly 1/4 inch long by 1/32 gap at all 4 corners. Looks like I get to remove all the accesories and yank the cylinder heads... Fuckin found a felpro review on Summitracing showing the exact problem that somebody else had. Gonna order new head gaskets and hopefully have engine buttoned up by monday. View Quote What in the hell I also run Cometic head gaskets, and have for over 20 years. I’ve never run into this, nor have I ever heard of it before. Maybe I’m living under a rock, but I try to keep up on this stuff. Ain’t that just the damnedest thing. I’m curious to know what Cometic says |
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