A GD Knife Thread-EDC, Knife Porn/ Edged Erotica. Steel Addiction Support Group (Page 3837 of 3837)
|
Good morning all, I'm carrying my reground Kershaw tyrade today. Attached File |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
|
Made a giant micarta mess in my mill this weekend. OP1 side completed on all the Tuff Lite scales. The insides of the scales will get finished out sometime this week after I swap in the soft jaws and finish machining a few more back spacers to complete the batch. Attached File |
| I recently purchased this knife. From my basic research, and I could be wrong is that it's a WW 2 trench/ fighting knife. Manufactured by Case. I'd like to clean it up a little bit and from what i've read, it said to use fine brass wool and mineral oil on the steel. And then to use Bick 4 on the leather handle. I'd like to know if this is correct/advisable? |
|
Originally Posted By 71Camaro: I recently purchased this knife. From my basic research, and I could be wrong is that it's a WW 2 trench/ fighting knife. Manufactured by Case. I'd like to clean it up a little bit and from what i've read, it said to use fine brass wool and mineral oil on the steel. And then to use Bick 4 on the leather handle. I'd like to know if this is correct/advisable? Send pics if you can |
|
Originally Posted By Reubjames: Send pics if you can I tried. Not really great with adding here.Attached File |
|
What's your end goal? Bright and shiny blade and newish looking handle or just cleaned up and serviceable? I've used bronze wool to clean rust off blued pistols and it works very well to just get the rust off without too much damage to the bluing. Scrub with some oil like 3-in-1 or similar, WD40 would work too. Bronze wool will get the rust off but most likely leave some the dark patina on the blade. I also like using scotchbrite. On the carbon steel blades I make, sometimes I will clean them up with the grey (fine) scotchbrite. It's minimally agressive. Steel wool will start to shine up the blade if that's what you want. If so, start with 0000. If that's not aggressive enough grab some 00 or courser if needed. If you want it even shinier grab some abrasive paper and work from 220 up through 1000-1200 or even higher up to a full polish if that's your goal. If it was mine, I'd just get the surface rust off and try to leave the patina. Then try to get the leather to take up a little moisture (saddle soap to clean it then some kind of conditioner maybe). I'm not a huge leatherworker so someone may come along with better info than me on that part of your project. |
|
Originally Posted By 71Camaro: I tried. Not really great with adding here.https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/386878/6571_jpg-3830648.JPG Attached File |
|
Originally Posted By Reubjames: What's your end goal? Bright and shiny blade and newish looking handle or just cleaned up and serviceable? I've used bronze wool to clean rust off blued pistols and it works very well to just get the rust off without too much damage to the bluing. Scrub with some oil like 3-in-1 or similar, WD40 would work too. Bronze wool will get the rust off but most likely leave some the dark patina on the blade. I also like using scotchbrite. On the carbon steel blades I make, sometimes I will clean them up with the grey (fine) scotchbrite. It's minimally agressive. Steel wool will start to shine up the blade if that's what you want. If so, start with 0000. If that's not aggressive enough grab some 00 or courser if needed. If you want it even shinier grab some abrasive paper and work from 220 up through 1000-1200 or even higher up to a full polish if that's your goal. If it was mine, I'd just get the surface rust off and try to leave the patina. Then try to get the leather to take up a little moisture (saddle soap to clean it then some kind of conditioner maybe). I'm not a huge leatherworker so someone may come along with better info than me on that part of your project. My goal is to just clean the rusty surface off but leave the patina. Also want to clean the leather up. |
|
Originally Posted By 71Camaro: My goal is to just clean the rusty surface off but leave the patina. Also want to clean the leather up. Id try scrubbing the leather with saddle soap and then put a leather conditioner on it. I like products with bees wax in them but some people don't. |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
|
Originally Posted By Reubjames: What's your end goal? Bright and shiny blade and newish looking handle or just cleaned up and serviceable? I've used bronze wool to clean rust off blued pistols and it works very well to just get the rust off without too much damage to the bluing. Scrub with some oil like 3-in-1 or similar, WD40 would work too. Bronze wool will get the rust off but most likely leave some the dark patina on the blade. I also like using scotchbrite. On the carbon steel blades I make, sometimes I will clean them up with the grey (fine) scotchbrite. It's minimally agressive. Steel wool will start to shine up the blade if that's what you want. If so, start with 0000. If that's not aggressive enough grab some 00 or courser if needed. If you want it even shinier grab some abrasive paper and work from 220 up through 1000-1200 or even higher up to a full polish if that's your goal. If it was mine, I'd just get the surface rust off and try to leave the patina. Then try to get the leather to take up a little moisture (saddle soap to clean it then some kind of conditioner maybe). I'm not a huge leatherworker so someone may come along with better info than me on that part of your project. What about Flitz? |
Metus improbos compescit, non clementia
|
Originally Posted By Reubjames: Made a giant micarta mess in my mill this weekend. OP1 side completed on all the Tuff Lite scales. The insides of the scales will get finished out sometime this week after I swap in the soft jaws and finish machining a few more back spacers to complete the batch. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/59685/Photo_Sep_20_2026__5_06_17_PM_jpg-3830605.JPG Looking good! |
|
M3 Fighting Knife I wouldn't get too aggressive with cleaning that. The saddle soap on the handle and bronze wool with oil on the blade shouldn't mess with any historical value too much. |
|
Originally Posted By Reubjames: Made a giant micarta mess in my mill this weekend. OP1 side completed on all the Tuff Lite scales. The insides of the scales will get finished out sometime this week after I swap in the soft jaws and finish machining a few more back spacers to complete the batch. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/59685/Photo_Sep_20_2026__5_06_17_PM_jpg-3830605.JPG some good variety here |
Metus improbos compescit, non clementia
|
Originally Posted By Reubjames: Made a giant micarta mess in my mill this weekend. OP1 side completed on all the Tuff Lite scales. The insides of the scales will get finished out sometime this week after I swap in the soft jaws and finish machining a few more back spacers to complete the batch. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/59685/Photo_Sep_20_2026__5_06_17_PM_jpg-3830605.JPG I like what I'm seeing here |
|
Originally Posted By WIC: some good variety here Originally Posted By WIC: some good variety here Originally Posted By rbb2: I like what I'm seeing here Thanks, hopefully can have some pics of the finished scales soon if I can get a couple hours in the evenings this week. |
|
Originally Posted By WIC: https://i.imgur.com/qwBXgMd.jpg https://i.imgur.com/JkxOfZF.jpg https://i.imgur.com/n4OJ2cS.jpg 'Merica! Looks good |
|
Originally Posted By WIC: nothing to report. I want them to do the Wilson run again. I would get that. daisho. daisho. https://i.imgur.com/ylpPEVh.jpg I think I prefer the 31 in the small. slightly more comfortable in hand? inkosi is still great. Been wanting to buy a small, but I'm afraid it would be too small and would get left on the shelf. |
God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
|
Originally Posted By rbb2: The small Sebenza is a fantastic "polite society" size. Originally Posted By rbb2: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Been wanting to buy a small, but I'm afraid it would be too small and would get left on the shelf. The small Sebenza is a fantastic "polite society" size. I don't really hang out in one of those. 
|
God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars