Posted: 7/26/2006 2:12:41 PM EDT
|
wet sand it and respray a clear coat there... it wont look perfect but it' seal it again. i did it on one of my cars, worked great untill a stripped it to bare metal and repainted it after a seam weld job. one thing about those spots is they are right in the sun or exposed to open air. rust would take a while to form there... for the most part. |
|
Not really man. If you took off the bad parts and scuffed them with a red scotch brite pad, a good body man will paint it for a fair price. It's prep work that costs the money. A lot of body men will do work on the weekend for a good price too. Or, you could get a paint gun and a single stage paint and do it yourself. I have done more body work than most ever want to do and it is hard work. It would be worth it and probably cheaper just to have it done by a pro. |
| I had that happen to my 87 XJ. If I remember correctly, that's the clearcoat breaking down. Never could get it to stop no matter how much I waxed the car. Every horizontal paint surface on the Jeep did it and eventually the hood and roof went 100% like that. Only solution was to have it professionally sanded and painted. I opted not to do that and got rid of it instead. But I got a lot of OHV use out of it and never worried about how much brush was scraping the sides. 186K miles and that I6 kept humming along... just everything around the engine fell apart. |
I got replies on another site saying its not the paint, its the clear coat. Those I6s really kick ass... I bought it with 129K and I've had to replace one U joint. |
| the paint is sprayed in two stages, base coat, goes on flat...then a clear coat..the best thing to do is to sand the bad clear off...wetsand with 400......get a sealer...then shoot it with an acrylic enamel...which goes on in one coat....very durable and on a non metallic color will be satisfactory |
