Posted: 4/24/2014 6:08:36 PM EDT
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Well, this project started because I was getting sick and tired of leaking transmission fluid so I decided to pull it and replace some seals. It's getting deeper and deeper. Car is a 1962 Belvedere 318 2bbl with an early 19 spline Torqueflite 8 (727). The input shaft end play was surprisingly in spec. Pulled the oil pump housing to replace the converter shaft bushing and seals. Front and rear clutch packs pulled out a bit with the pump and wouldn't go back in. So, out comes the valve body and 2nd gear band so I can pull the clutch packs. Look good enough but I see something odd down below......so apart it comes
Broken rear clutch spring! 
And while inspecting the clutch and steel discs I can't say they look good..... 
Notice the discolored steel and blackness of the clutch discs. Not sure when or if they have ever been replaced. So I decided to replace them all, just ordered a kit as a matter of fact. Not for the feint of heart 
The beast.... 
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I've been inside a Th400 a few times. We had a 2wd TH400 that we wanted to convert to 4wd. So a complete tear down and tail shaft replacement was in order. The clutched looked good and the only PITA was getting all the clutch packs to line up during reassembly. After getting it back together the tailshaft wouldn't move. Time to tear back down.
Long story short, we ended up tearing down and reassembling 6 times. Finally found out jegs sent us the wrong tailshaft and it was causing all the binding. |
I'm keeping the tailshaft on because nothing back there leaks and nothing ordered from Jegs . I have rebuilt a four speed manual and a few 5 speed manual transaxles but this is my first automatic. It works and shifts fine but was leaking pretty good out of the bell housing. I figured while it was out might as well replace the wear items. Sourcing the bushings and weird gaskets is getting painful on the wallet.
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Rebuilt my Sons Dodge 46re a few weeks ago after 290,000 miles. (lost reverse due to a cast aluminum broken reverse piston)(but dodge transmissions are crap) Went back with billet pistons and Red Eagle clutch kit. My advice as this is what I did as it was my first auto trans rebuild. QUADRUPLE check all clearances. Added a mild shift kit and the biggest trans cooler I could find to it as he is 17 and pulls the hell out of horse and cattle trailers. Working great so far.  Sons "Big Boy Truck" as he calls it.  |
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Quoted:
This. OP is an obvious doctor of hoodoo. I don't own enough live chickens to tear into an AT. Quoted:
Quoted:
AT's are wizardry as far as I'm concerned, they go to the shop every time. Wish I could understand them. This. OP is an obvious doctor of hoodoo. I don't own enough live chickens to tear into an AT. Not to mention the sacrificing of virgin children is frowned upon in these here parts. Nice job OP. I think I've got the skills to do it, but I can't take that chance. The look on the mechanic's face when I take that box of mumbo jumbo into him, would be the ultimate blow to whatever mechanical skill I thought I may possess. |
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The last one I did was a 700R4, and that was a long time ago. I'm always afraid I'm going to misplace something and have to take the trans back out of the car and tear it all apart again. http://www.tehpear.com/pictures/other/GM%204L60E%20Transmission%20Exploded%20view%20%28large%29.jpg That image just confirms that I will never open up one of those.
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I am surprised you were able to find the correct kit and not a generic later 727 kit. ball and trunion plus dual pumps must have made that kit hard to find. even the filter is different from the 66 and up. Many parts are interchangeable from 62 to 66 so most of the oddball parts I sourced from different on line vendors. The ball and trunion boot has to be made from a power steering boot . No voodoo really once you take it apart. Just keep everything in order and separated. My biggest problem so far is the shipping charges I keep racking up after finding out I need another part. Like I said this is my first A/T rebuild so I am still learning.
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That's where I ordered most of my parts
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Quoted:
Rebuilt my Sons Dodge 46re a few weeks ago after 290,000 miles. (lost reverse due to a cast aluminum broken reverse piston)(but dodge transmissions are crap) Went back with billet pistons and Red Eagle clutch kit. My advice as this is what I did as it was my first auto trans rebuild. QUADRUPLE check all clearances. Added a mild shift kit and the biggest trans cooler I could find to it as he is 17 and pulls the hell out of horse and cattle trailers. Working great so far.
Sons "Big Boy Truck" as he calls it. http://www.v8z.net/sp/013.JPG Personally, I've had more Ford transmissions than I have Dodges. I had my 90 F250 ZF-5 out once for a clutch over the 10k I had that one. My 94 F150 had a slave cylinder go bad (only had that one for a week though). My 96 F250…throwout bearing on that ZF-5 and the synchronizers were shot. My 02 F150…over a 74k mile period I had the transmission out 4 times for 3 slaves and one throwout bearing. I'm rebuilding my first auto here in a few weeks. 4L60E on my Trailblazer. I've also got a TH350 in a newly acquired suburban that needs a rebuild (along with the 350 under the hood) but don't think I want to rebuild it. |
No big updates as I am still waiting for my rebuild kit. I did get a couple of bushings pulled out and replaced. Used a modified HF bushing puller and their U.S. General race seating tool. Worked pretty well.
Both bushings were original Plymouth parts so I doubt the transmission has ever been rebuilt, at least not fully rebuilt. 
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Sidetrack while waiting for transmission kit. Received my ball and trunion boot, found a repro that is exact down to the clamps. Not cheap but the old boot was toast and in several pieces. Clipped the old one off and disassembled the ball and trunion....and welcome to the wonderful world of needle bearings...
They were coated in gooey tar before cleaning in acetone. This pick is after pulling the parts with a magnet. 31 bearings in each. 
To put em back together grease the inside of the ball, grab a set of tweezers and start sticking them in. Takes a steady hand. 
Done, all bearings were accounted for
I thought this was cool. Cover plate, made in Motor City
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it has been over 20 years since I had to rebuild a ball and trunion set.
I found rebuild kits both times though. one from a place out of seattle. don't remember the name. the other from a place near me called antique auto supply out of arlington tx. the guy has/had a 7 foot tall shelving unit stocked from top to bottom with ball and trunion rebuild kits from whenever they started in the 40's or 50's till they stopped using them in the 65 year run. but for every manufacturer that used them. it was pretty neat going through his warehouse. (all 3 of them). anyway, the spherical bearings seem to always go. At least on the 3 I rebuilt. eventually it allows that pin they ride on to slam around in the housing. I know you have put a bit of work into it, but you might consider the slip yoke conversion instead of trying to keep that, even though it looks to be fairly low mile and in good shape. imperial services I think is the one that sells it. |
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Final Update: Transmission is assembled and back in the car. I didn't take any pictures because I got tunnel vision while putting it together. Shaft end play was at minimum spec, I did have to get a thinner snap ring for the rear clutch pack. The converter popped right into place with no issues and the whole unit bolted up with ease. It took right at 9 1/2 quarts of fluid and looks to be well sealed. I have already put around 30 miles on it without issue. Shifts smoothly and no slipping in any gear. It did accentuate the rear main seal leak however. The only reason I did not replace it was because it requires that the crank be pulled. Um, no. I'll wait until the engine needs a rebuild.
Next project is a manual steering box rebuild which I noticed has coated everything around it with a film of grease as the bottom seal looks like it is non-existent. |