The whole point of paralleling them is to get the 50amp output, which has two hot 120v legs…

Parallel generators are sync'd in phase, you don't get two different 120v phases 180 out from each other.

Eta

You get 2x current of phase 1 or 2x current of phase 2

OP I'm almost anal about backup power because we are the LAST one on the distribution grid. We're on our second Kohler natural gas 30KW whole house unit. That being said we have a 7500 watt genny in the motorhome as well. Beyond that I found a great almost new Hobart engine driven welder that puts out 10,500 watts 240v for $3,000 cash. My point is that I'm frugal with my money and the welder/generator deal is a great solution in that it's a BIG power source and a welder as well. Look around like I did , have cash in hand, and you'll find one I suspect. Mine had 7 hours on the tach. I'm looking for another right now kind of like a "trade up to a better deal". Miller makes Hobart and their Bobcat series welders are more capable and some are diesel driven as well. Just a thought. The Hobart I bought had 100' leads, a cover and the "cart" for the welder. Today retail for all of that is well over $4500.

Paralleling them still only gives you one hot leg.

Unlike residential split-phase service, they produce AC that is in phase with each other - so rather than having a 240 volt difference between them, there is no voltage difference between them.

Connecting them in parallel doubles the amount of current available, but the voltage remains the same: 120 volts.

Thanks for the video.

That Duromax, or one one of the larger ones, looks promising. I have 250 gals of LP and it's plumbed right next to where I'd put the generator. It's be easy enough to run a hook up.

My 2200 has the propane kit on it, and while power is slightly reduced, that's the way to go for home use if you have propane available.

 Someone's math is off. You cannot get 50 amp service from a 7500 watt/240 generator.

45 kw Kohler here since 2001.Fast response 2 starts within 3 seconds of an outage.

That would be a winner I’d jump on right now if it was actually an inverter.  Sadly doesn’t appear to be.

The more important aspect to noise is the cleanliness of the power from an inverter, especially given all the electronic boards in things like fridges these days.

Screw being a gas can jockey............ did it for years then went entire house 22KW with auto transfer switch and only wish I had done it sooner.

Gas is not exactly inexpensive now and when it goes dark so does most gas stations.

This got me by for years (5250 run watts) but will shake your teeth lose loud.
I used a twist lock plug and sub panel to feed my main panel.

Most modern electronics is designed to operate over a huge range of AC supply voltages - For example, laptop power supplies and "wall warts" are typically rated for 100-240 volts 50/60 Hz.

Varistors and other transient absorbers are now commonly used in their designs, and most homes now have at least a few "surge suppressor" outlet strips or similar present.

If anything, modern electronics is less susceptible to power quality problems than in earlier eras.

However, some devices (UPS's and furnaces) don't like to see any voltage difference between the ground and neutral wires of the AC power source - they will complain about "wiring errors", or just refuse to operate.

Many portable generators have "unbonded" neutrals, so there is often some voltage present between their ground and neutral wires.

Simple solution: Plug a "neutral bonding plug" into any AC output being powered by the generator, and you instantly have no voltage difference between the ground and neutral wires:

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Keeps all your appliances happy.

Ended up buying this off of Amazon. Gets here tomorrow.  This will connect into my 250 gal LP tank.

Also installing a transfer switch  with a 50 amp plug and 10 circuits. I'll probably keep the stove off but will include the well pump.

Attached File

^At 74 dB rated noise level, it's going to be pretty loud.

Add this to the substantial weight (you aren't going to be moving it around any more than necessary) - and you need a generator shed.

Here's an example, using rockwool as the insulation material (an excellent choice for noise reduction):

My whole house including the well all run off an industrial Honda EB5000(will do 7000kw surge 10 seconds).

We do have natural gas for heat, water and cooking. But 2 fridges,  1 freezer,  3 TV, computers, all the lights..everything like a normal day...off 1 honda...but I also have a spare Honda EM5000 because 2 is better then 1.

Only thing I don't run all the time is the septic pump unless power is out a few days than i let it run.

Zero issues with electronics, but did add a few ups backups around the house..it's kinda nice if the power goes out..some lights stay on..which gives me time fire up the Honda

I did an interlock panel so I could pick and choose if needed..which is nice when 1st hooking up the generator..so it's not loaded down.

My EB5000 is a jobsite OSHA approved model and has its own bonded neutral...which to use with a home a jumper wire must be removed . My other Honda EM5000 does not have it..it's a home owner version

That's my plan eventually, except propane from a tank.

We have an electric stove/range right now and I want to upgrade that at the same time so I have big tank full of propane to cook from and run a backup generator.