Posted: 11/29/2011 6:18:51 AM EDT
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I'm putting a Kicke L5 12'' in my truck and I want to build a custom box to go in the middle of the back seat (bench? seat in avalanche)
Anyway Ive heard it has to be a certain size and all that great stuff. So, I guess starting with the proper material to construct it with would be good and go from there. I work nights so Ill be retiring for the day. Thanks |
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1. You need to figure out maximum dimensions of the area you have designated for the box in your truck.(for ease we will use 1'x1'x1' or 1cuft)
2. Take that measurement, and subtract it by the thickness of material you are going to be using(for ease we will use 1") Which means your 1'x1'x1' square of space, will now only have the inside dimensions of 10"x10"x10" since have two inch's of material in every direction. 10" x 10" = 100 x 10" = 1000 / 1728(cu inchs in a cubic foot) = .58 cu ft That means you have .58cuft of internal volume for a subwoofer. At this point, you need to either make sure the sub you have will work in that volume(or less), or find a sub that will work in that volume box. At this point, I would suggest sticking to a sealed configuration until you have some experience calculating and building boxes. Porting boxes is far more complicated not to mention require a lot more volume. Typically .75" MDF(Medium Density Fiberboard) is used in the construction of the box. Use liquid nails in the joints and screws(make sure you pre-drill all holes) NOT NAILS to assemble the box. I even used silicone caulk around all the joins on the inside of the boxes. You don't want any air escaping from the box. Even in ported boxes, you don't want air escaping anywhere but the port. Use a table saw to get good straight cuts. Lay out all your pieces on the board before you start cutting to save material(not too important if you're not looking to get as much out of a sheet as possible). |
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If you have a dado blade or a router, cut 3/4" grooves for the side pieces to sit in. It looks much better, isn't hard to do, and is also stronger.
If you felt it, use the finest spraying canned contact cement you can find, the stuff in a bucket is a PITA to work with on felt. Its overkill, but I cut a second ring to mount behind the front piece and use longer screws to mount the sub in the box to go through both pieces. Mine gets taken out weekly, and gets bounced around all the time so I was a bit paranoid about it coming out of the box... Also put a plastic guard over the sub, but that didn't last more than 5 minutes. A rotozip/router is near necessity to cut your sub hole... unless you have a CNC which also allows you to make sweet CF dust covers 
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Google Torres Sub Enclosure and fill in the blanks. I have gotten pretty good at it the last 2 days of trying to dial in my box and would be glad to help you figure it out.
Here's what I ended up with with the help from a couple guys. Construction starts Thursday. 
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