Posted: 12/13/2008 4:48:42 AM EDT
| I am just about done building my first AR. I will be picking up the bolt, and carrier at the local gun show here in Charlotte N.C. today. I would like to build a trap for both handguns, and rifle. I have a design in mind but was wondering if anyone knows the thickness of steel to use for a backstop that will handle handgun loads up to say 7.62 rifle rounds. If anyone has any design ideas I am open to suggestions. Thanks in advance. |
|
snail trap is probably the best design, in my opinion.
http://www.snailtraps.com/ |
|
Quoted:
I am just about done building my first AR. I will be picking up the bolt, and carrier at the local gun show here in Charlotte N.C. today. I would like to build a trap for both handguns, and rifle. I have a design in mind but was wondering if anyone knows the thickness of steel to use for a backstop that will handle handgun loads up to say 7.62 rifle rounds. If anyone has any design ideas I am open to suggestions. Thanks in advance. If you are doing this out side it should be pretty simple. You would need to find some AR500 plate for the impact zone (angled back plate) because mild steel will not last long. What you do is use mild steel for the side plates to stop the splatter and place the impact plate at a 45 degree angle to where the bullet would be deflected towards the ground. Place sand bags under the plate where the splatter would go down. You would hang the targets from the front top edge of the impact plate. Not going to be very cheap but it is definitely a doable home project. I shoot my AR500 plate straight on and 5.56 just knocks the paint off. It is some tough stuff so at 45 it should last for a very long time. HTH |
| I'd go with some 1/2" at least and maybe even 3/4" steel plate and use a very shallow angle. Say about 30 degree with side shields. I'd also leave it open bottomed and let the expended projectiles hit the dirt under the trap. Sink the back end a few inches deep in the dirt and cover the thing with a few sacks of sack krete. Leave the sack krete in the sack and let the dew make it hard. just my opinion though. |
| Thankks for the input all. One question, what is "ar500" plate? We have a local welding shop where we get what we need for our tug boats and all. I have not heard of that. Also, I am probably going to set it up at 50-75 yards due to yard constraints. I was thinking of a 24" x 24" "backstop". Thoughts? |
|
AR500 refers to the alloy and heat treatment of the steel. the "AR" refers to abrasion resistant and the 500 refers to the hardness on the Brinell scale.. This steel is VERY hard and also very expensive!
Your local welding shop will most likely not keep it in stock. They may be able to special order it but you may find it cheaper online. DO NOT HEAT this steel in any way!!! NO welding, NO torching! You can use a plasma cutter to cut some bolt holes (Have fun drilling!) but the bolts will wear away quickly and the plasma will cause a small area around the hole to soften a bit. Heat will distroy you nice expensive steel..Keep it away at all costs! If you can afford it 4 sheets of 24x24" would be best. At 75-100 yards you are bound to miss a single 24x24" plate a few times. With the larger plates you can swap plates as one gets worn. Plus you can set up larger targets.. The angle is very important. If the plate is not angled or not free to swing if direct shot are taken you will pit and or punch through the steel. I had a 1/2" thick swinging target made of ar500 that got bound up and failed to swing. Varmint loads out of 22-250 punched right through it like butter!! Rounds designed to fragment punched right through 1/2" armor plate because it was #1 at a right angle #2 not free to swing... FuCked up a very nice target!!! |
