Posted: 12/13/2022 2:56:05 PM EDT
|
Finally had the chance to test 1) my cast 9mm subs and 2) DD19.2 pistol. Only made it through three rounds. Aside from the first round having a light primer strike (could have been the gun), the rounds functioned beautifully. However, as we see below, the backstrap and grip immediately were severed. What does this mean in regard to tweaks needed in the slicing of the file? Also, and this might be a job fo the NFA forum...but the silencer ended up stuck against the guide rod after 3 rounds and needed to be nudged out of the way just so the slide would return to battery. Either the frame crack allowed the barrel to move too far backward, the guide rod too far forward, or the threading is just too deep on the barrel and it's neither the gun nor the other components' fault.  
|
|
No idea about the can stuff, but I'd say your layer adhesion isn't awesome and/or that pin was pushed in too small of a hole. ETA: Also, notice how the break went down the Z seam, I'd work to minimize that seam gap even if you have to do a little bit of post-processing. |
|
Quoted: No idea about the can stuff, but I'd say your layer adhesion isn't awesome and/or that pin was pushed in too small of a hole. ETA: Also, notice how the break went down the Z seam, I'd work to minimize that seam gap even if you have to do a little bit of post-processing. Z-seam...that the vertical severing along the backstrap or the horizontal severing of the grip? Thanks |
|
Quoted: Z-seam...that the vertical severing along the backstrap or the horizontal severing of the grip? Thanks Quoted: Quoted: No idea about the can stuff, but I'd say your layer adhesion isn't awesome and/or that pin was pushed in too small of a hole. ETA: Also, notice how the break went down the Z seam, I'd work to minimize that seam gap even if you have to do a little bit of post-processing. Z-seam...that the vertical severing along the backstrap or the horizontal severing of the grip? Thanks |
|
Quoted: It looks like the slicer didnt take the wall all the way around at the back but instead made the back separated from the sides. Its real thin there esp near that pin hole. That combined with the location of the pin hole makes it a weak spot overall, and add in some less than great layer adhesion and away it goes. |
|
Quoted: PLA+, 230 and 60, 20%. I print 225, 50, and 20%. I exclusively use Esun pla+ and have had great success with it, but I just loaded a new spool the other day and it doesn't like that profile at all. A temp tower indicated 180 degrees  .I print rails down, flat on the bed with supports of course. |
Since we're here, my DD26.2 frame split also. I'm not sure exactly when, I put 5 mags through it and it was still functioning fine(!). I got home and went to take it down and this is what I found:   It looks to me like it started around the locking block. This is IIIDMAX PLA+, and it is the roll that was giving me some extruder issues, so I'm willing to chalk it up as just a bad print, but wanted to get some other opinions. Frame is split almost all the way to the back of the grip on both sides along the layer of the locking block pin. |
|
Quoted: Since we're here, my DD26.2 frame split also. I'm not sure exactly when, I put 5 mags through it and it was still functioning fine(!). I got home and went to take it down and this is what I found: https://i.ibb.co/mzrjmyP/20221215-224845.jpghttps://i.ibb.co/HnSPn0S/20221215-224855.jpg https://i.ibb.co/JpGJYxJ/20221215-224913.jpg It looks to me like it started around the locking block. This is IIIDMAX PLA+, and it is the roll that was giving me some extruder issues, so I'm willing to chalk it up as just a bad print, but wanted to get some other opinions. Frame is split almost all the way to the back of the grip on both sides along the layer of the locking block pin. my opinion...turn up the heat, turn down the cooling, and stop printing rails down. Rails down is probably the least strong way (albeit the easiest) to print a frame. make sure your holes are sized properly. Ream them out if necessary. |
|
I did print rails up. As I was disassembling this I ended up breaking it more and clearly it was underextruded especially in the infill. When I broke it apart- easily- it was like breaking apart a piece of pine or fiberglass rather than a piece of plastic, with lots of small stringy fibers which separated easily. I appreciate the input! The one I most recently printed was at a higher temp and appears to have extruded better. |
|
Quoted: I did print rails up. As I was disassembling this I ended up breaking it more and clearly it was underextruded especially in the infill. When I broke it apart- easily- it was like breaking apart a piece of pine or fiberglass rather than a piece of plastic, with lots of small stringy fibers which separated easily. I appreciate the input! The one I most recently printed was at a higher temp and appears to have extruded better. Okay let me elaborate. Do not print layer lines parallel to the slide. You want the layer lines to be angled relative to the slide, gives it a LOT more strength that way. strongest way is most likely nose up about 15-30 degrees. You don't need a bunch, but you want layers not like up with lard lines in the frame. That invites splitting and stress fractures at these weak points. |
|
Quoted: Okay let me elaborate. Do not print layer lines parallel to the slide. You want the layer lines to be angled relative to the slide, gives it a LOT more strength that way. strongest way is most likely nose up about 15-30 degrees. You don't need a bunch, but you want layers not like up with lard lines in the frame. That invites splitting and stress fractures at these weak points. Quoted: Quoted: I did print rails up. As I was disassembling this I ended up breaking it more and clearly it was underextruded especially in the infill. When I broke it apart- easily- it was like breaking apart a piece of pine or fiberglass rather than a piece of plastic, with lots of small stringy fibers which separated easily. I appreciate the input! The one I most recently printed was at a higher temp and appears to have extruded better. Okay let me elaborate. Do not print layer lines parallel to the slide. You want the layer lines to be angled relative to the slide, gives it a LOT more strength that way. strongest way is most likely nose up about 15-30 degrees. You don't need a bunch, but you want layers not like up with lard lines in the frame. That invites splitting and stress fractures at these weak points. Would nose up vs. nose down matter? It would seem like nose down would be easier and require less support material....no? Thanks |
|
Quoted: Would nose up vs. nose down matter? It would seem like nose down would be easier and require less support material....no? Thanks |
|
Quoted: I'm wondering the same. I would think rails up but nose tilted down would give more lateral strength against recoil since it would make the layers longer. If I were printing one (I'm not...as an FFL it's too gray area for me with new serializing regs) I'd print one upside down, with the rear/grip raised off the bed at a 20 degree angle to start with. That allows layers to be compressed vs decompressed when the slide slams back. |
|
Quoted: my opinion...turn up the heat, turn down the cooling, and stop printing rails down. Rails down is probably the least strong way (albeit the easiest) to print a frame. make sure your holes are sized properly. Ream them out if necessary. My opinion, I disagree on the orientation. I'm not saying I'm right, just that I disagree. I print Esun PLA+ 225 on the hot end, 50 on the bed, no cooling first 10 layers, then 20% cooling the remainder of the print. I have not had a failure yet, not in multiple 19's 9mm, multiple 17's 9mm, two 43's 9mm, FN 40 in .40cal, AR10 (308 nato), and a 3011 in .45ACP. I did have a grip break off of a 3011, but that was because there was not much meat there to hold the screw. I now print it all one piece and no problems. All except the 3011 were printed rails down and layers parallel to the bore. The 3011's were printed rails up simply because I did not want supports in the top of the frame. The rear pic rail is not conducive to print rails down. If you print one you'll see what I mean. With the G19's, G17's, and the G43's, I have only one complete slide per model. I print multiple frames in multiple colors, install the lower parts kits in each and then simply move the slides from one frame to another, back and forth. It is critical to have a properly tuned printer, and a 20mm cube doesn't get it done. I tune the extruder to get actual feed length to programmed feed length. I also tune each axis to within 0.01mm, NOT 0.1MM. I have a 100mm test print that prints 100mm on all three axis, then I adjust Z,Y, and Z steps if needed. I don't measure with calipers, I use Mitutoya 3-4 micrometer. Lastly, I measure each axis movement directly with a Brown & Sharp 2" travel indicator. And of course a properly leveled bed. I use a CR Touch on a CR-10 V3, a BL Touch on an Ender 3 V2. I also verify bed level with the travel indicator. It will also verify highs and lows. It takes me a few days to get a machine calibrated, but it is worth it. Is it overkill? Maybe, but I get great prints. |
|
Coming back to this.... any ideas what G19 frames use the Aves rails other than the DD19.2? I wrote to Aves asking a couple weeks ago but never heard back. Looking at the options on Odysee, none of them list what rails are needed that I could see without downloading them. Thanks! EDIT: Found there's over a dozen people that creased plans for the DD19.2 and so I picked one...the RD19.2 that gives me some decent texturing on the backstrap and front stap/finger area. I sliced it rails down with the backstrap end up about 15 degrees. I figured that'd be the strongest orientation and hopefully avoid the splitting. |
|
Chairmanwon has an island in the sea where there are a ton of different files that use the xx.2 rails and G5 catch spring. And each file pack has a ton of different styles of stippling too. Hammering out yet another 26X.2 right now because you just can never have enough... |
|
Quoted: Chairmanwon has an island in the sea where there are a ton of different files that use the xx.2 rails and G5 catch spring. And each file pack has a ton of different styles of stippling too. Hammering out yet another 26X.2 right now because you just can never have enough... Those use the Aves rails? Thanks |
|
Quoted: Those use the Aves rails? Thanks Quoted: Quoted: Chairmanwon has an island in the sea where there are a ton of different files that use the xx.2 rails and G5 catch spring. And each file pack has a ton of different styles of stippling too. Hammering out yet another 26X.2 right now because you just can never have enough... Those use the Aves rails? Thanks |
|
Quoted: The DD rails like you have are by far the most common among 3D printed frames. Almost all of them use those. The only other options are P80 and PY2A, and they're nowhere near as common. Quoted: It's not about the brand of rails it's about the style. DDXX.2 rails are really common. You can get them from Aves, JSD, even off eBay and a few other places. Currently printing one. Should take just over two days with all the supports from the angling. But this should also give it significantly more strength than the last one. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board with the specs of the print....possibly a new model. Thanks |
|
Seriously impressed with how this turned out! While I didn't have time to test it this afternoon, I hope to in the near future. Significant difference and improvement over my DD19.2!! Part of that is in the print's design. Much better ergonomics/grip, feels more solid and reinforced and much cleaner. Part of that had to do with how I arranged it on the bed, the angling, and that I no longer allow supports to adhere to anywhere but the bed (or whatever they are supporting). I will say I still prefer the feel of my P80 and factory Glocks as the backstrap is noticeably wider on this print (think G20 vs G19). But not uncomfortable and definitely useable. Totally different experience this time around!  
|