Posted: 11/16/2012 7:53:12 AM EDT
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How to make solar panels.
<DIY Solar Panel Databurst Part 1> You'll need: Solar Cells (The 0.5 volt / 3.6 Amp type) Soldering Iron 2 x Perspex sheets at least 3mm thick EVA material Araldite or silicon sealant Heat Gun / Hair Dryer Material for spacer 'beading' You must essentially cover up the soldering, wire connections with EVA applying to the solar panels. http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s366/MountainHold/P1020680.jpg http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s366/MountainHold/P1020692.jpg The cells are wired up in a series configuration resulting in a theoretical 8 volts from 16 cells. However in extreme sunshine this can result in a 10 volt reading. DIY Solar Panel Databurst Part 2 http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s366/MountainHold/P1020712.jpg This part will be covering the EVA application, making the 'beading', perspex fixing, environmentally sealing, confirmation voltages and then it'll be ready :) http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s366/MountainHold/SolarPanelClamped.jpg Finished http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s366/MountainHold/P1020707.jpg Cost for all materials was approx £40 or $60. |
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Quoted:
The cells are wired up in a series configuration resulting in a theoretical 8 volts from 16 cells. However in extreme sunshine this can result in a 10 volt reading. Looks good to me. Where did you get the EVA, the cells and other materials? In sunlight, at temperature, you might be able to get 10V when left at open circuit conditions (voltmeter across output but no other load). When under load (drawing significant current, ~80-90% of short circuit current output) you are unlikely to get anywhere near 10V. What is the short circuit current output of the module when in full sun, at noon? Measure this by putting the ammeter across the output terminals (with no other load). If left at short circuit or open circuit and in full sun the panel will heat up. When you start to extract power from it, you will see it cool off a bit and the voltage will drift upwards, as a result. |
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Quoted: Quoted: The cells are wired up in a series configuration resulting in a theoretical 8 volts from 16 cells. However in extreme sunshine this can result in a 10 volt reading. Looks good to me. Where did you get the EVA, the cells and other materials? In sunlight, at temperature, you might be able to get 10V when left at open circuit conditions (voltmeter across output but no other load). When under load (drawing significant current, ~80-90% of short circuit current output) you are unlikely to get anywhere near 10V. What is the short circuit current output of the module when in full sun, at noon? Measure this by putting the ammeter across the output terminals (with no other load). If left at short circuit or open circuit and in full sun the panel will heat up. When you start to extract power from it, you will see it cool off a bit and the voltage will drift upwards, as a result. Hi Slayer. All materials sourced on Ebay. Yes I hear you on the open circuit and load conundrum. The key is to use one of more of these arrays in parallel (for 12 volt configurated batterys) on a charge-controlled system going into lead-acid batterys :) |
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Quoted:
Hi Slayer. All materials sourced on Ebay. Yes I hear you on the open circuit and load conundrum. The key is to use one of more of these arrays in parallel (for 12 volt configurated batterys) on a charge-controlled system going into lead-acid batterys :) Two in series will be needed to obtain sufficient voltage to charge a "12V" lead acid battery, which requires 14.3V to reach full charge. Putting the panels in series will raise the net voltage. Panels in parallel will generate more current output, but only at the lower voltage. Especially when attaching them to a bettery, you should consider adding a diode to the output to isolate the panels from the battery (prevents battery from discharging into the solar panel when it gets dark). |
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Quoted: Quoted: Hi Slayer. All materials sourced on Ebay. Yes I hear you on the open circuit and load conundrum. The key is to use one of more of these arrays in parallel (for 12 volt configurated batterys) on a charge-controlled system going into lead-acid batterys :) Two in series will be needed to obtain sufficient voltage to charge a "12V" lead acid battery, which requires 14.3V to reach full charge. Putting the panels in series will raise the net voltage. Panels in parallel will generate more current output, but only at the lower voltage. Especially when attaching them to a bettery, you should consider adding a diode to the output to isolate the panels from the battery (prevents battery from discharging into the solar panel when it gets dark). There is a diode, I use a charge controller for exactly that reason. I find the 14.3 charge is not a definate. Others say higher, or the same. |
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Tell me, what is the nominal power of such diy panel? If it`s at least 20Watts, then I might build one and use it to supply the electricity for 2 fans installed in my diy solar heater panels.
I already have two "do-it-yourself" solar panels, each is around 2KW, and I use them for home heating in the winter. My panels are much simpler than yours, but more efficient I must say. Only electrical parts inside are electric fan and snap disc controller. If someone is interested here is detailed manual on how to build 2KW DIY solar panels. http://solar.freeonplate.com/images/kolektor_od_limenki_18s.jpghttp://solar.freeonplate.com/images/solarni_panel_13s.jpg http://solar.freeonplate.com/images/panel_od_limenki_19s.jpg |
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But if you look at "price per watt" pop-can solar heater panel is actually much cheaper than any PV panel.
If you divide the price of parts needed for heater panel and divide it with 2000(Watts), result is around $0.1 per Watt! Anyway, in order to make this panel completely autonomous, I will have to build small PV device, same like you did and use it to power the fans... |
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