Drying Set Up (Page 3 of 4)
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: When I had my house built, I had a 16 x 9 reinforced gun room put in the basement. It has its own humidistat for perfect safe-room air, so I know what that's like. Sadly I've pretty much stopped the gun hobby TBH, shooting just got stupid expensive and the land I had to shoot on stopped being available to me, so now there are only indoor ranges around, and I'm not interested in that so much. I had suppressed guns for a reason, and it's not to listen to the dude next to me shoot his AK like a school girl. I got into drones too, never kept my attention. I like cars and helicopters though. One is more fun to beat the crap out of, and the other requires skill and concentration and so is great for taking your mind off work.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40lmRmv1mgshttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/20251004_180658_jpg-3735662.JPG Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By fox2008: When I printed the first 8, I bought a pretty big jug. Other than AMS pods and spool weights, these are my only use for it.....so I figured I might as well fill them up. I still have a little bit left in the jug after filling 16 pods but figured if I end up buying more cereal boxes I'd probably transfer some of it from the existing pods and level them out. I could be dumb and say I won't need anymore boxes but I thought 8 would be plenty when I bought them. Turns out adding a second printer with an AMS, means you obviously "need" to have even more spools available at any given time.  See....this shit is why I actively avoid hobbies. I have a walk in safe in the basement and functional machine shop in my garage because of guns, I bought my first 3D printer a year ago and now I have 3. I've had people at work try to talk to me about their drone and I just cover my ears, scream like a bitch and run away.....because I know me to well. I'd buy a $20 drone from Amazon and a year later I'd be $10k deep in building custom drones and have to put an addition on the house. TL/DR....I'm a retard When I had my house built, I had a 16 x 9 reinforced gun room put in the basement. It has its own humidistat for perfect safe-room air, so I know what that's like. Sadly I've pretty much stopped the gun hobby TBH, shooting just got stupid expensive and the land I had to shoot on stopped being available to me, so now there are only indoor ranges around, and I'm not interested in that so much. I had suppressed guns for a reason, and it's not to listen to the dude next to me shoot his AK like a school girl. I got into drones too, never kept my attention. I like cars and helicopters though. One is more fun to beat the crap out of, and the other requires skill and concentration and so is great for taking your mind off work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40lmRmv1mgshttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/20251004_180658_jpg-3735662.JPG I've backed off a little on the guns, partly because I've got most of the guns I want (multiples of some)....I'll still buy a new one on occassion....it just takes more to move the needle for me now I guess. I still shoot a fair amount but I live in the country and have enough land to shoot on. When we built our house, I had 2 rules.....I was going to be able to shoot off the back deck and pants were optional. Not only that but I've made that dream come true multiple times due to needing to deal with animals banging around on the deck at night.  The helicopter looks fun........AHAHAHAHHAHAHAHA....gotta run!!
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EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Originally Posted By Blob: That's exactly what happened to me. My wife bought me a little $20 amazon drone and within 10 minutes of flying it I said to her "I need to go faster." Next thing you know I'm balls deep in the global FPV drone racing circuit. BTW you should totally get into drones. They're hella fun! Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By fox2008: When I printed the first 8, I bought a pretty big jug. Other than AMS pods and spool weights, these are my only use for it.....so I figured I might as well fill them up. I still have a little bit left in the jug after filling 16 pods but figured if I end up buying more cereal boxes I'd probably transfer some of it from the existing pods and level them out. I could be dumb and say I won't need anymore boxes but I thought 8 would be plenty when I bought them. Turns out adding a second printer with an AMS, means you obviously "need" to have even more spools available at any given time. See....this shit is why I actively avoid hobbies. I have a walk in safe in the basement and functional machine shop in my garage because of guns, I bought my first 3D printer a year ago and now I have 3. I've had people at work try to talk to me about their drone and I just cover my ears, scream like a bitch and run away.....because I know me to well. I'd buy a $20 drone from Amazon and a year later I'd be $10k deep in building custom drones and have to put an addition on the house. TL/DR....I'm a retard That's exactly what happened to me. My wife bought me a little $20 amazon drone and within 10 minutes of flying it I said to her "I need to go faster." Next thing you know I'm balls deep in the global FPV drone racing circuit. BTW you should totally get into drones. They're hella fun! You guys are killing me I thought ARF cost me a lot of money when all I came to this site for was guns......every subforum on here should come with it's own line of credit. |
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Originally Posted By fox2008: You guys are killing me I thought ARF cost me a lot of money when all I came to this site for was guns......every subforum on here should come with it's own line of credit.  Mid America Throwdown qualifier  MultiGP Global Qualifier  Mid America Throwdown Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By fox2008: I've backed off a little on the guns, partly because I've got most of the guns I want (multiples of some)....I'll still buy a new one on occassion....it just takes more to move the needle for me now I guess. I still shoot a fair amount but I live in the country and have enough land to shoot on. When we built our house, I had 2 rules.....I was going to be able to shoot off the back deck and pants were optional. Not only that but I've made that dream come true multiple times due to needing to deal with animals banging around on the deck at night. The helicopter looks fun........AHAHAHAHHAHAHAHA....gotta run!! Helicopters multiply like guns. Attached File Actually have one more that's not in that pic.  I also am getting into bikepacking. Riding across Iowa in July, unsupported. Should be a great time. Attached File |
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I still need a discrete drier. For now I still have to dry everything through my AMS2 Pro. Not horrible, just inconvenient given how much I'm consistently printing since getting this printer. I looked at the Praki boxes and noticed if I only ordered 6 they were the same price per box as if I ordered 8 with the Prime discount, so I ordered 2 six packs. :) I've been using the desiccant packs in my 20L tubs (mostly full of Dry & Dry) knowing I was going to get the smaller boxes too. I even printed off some of the labels for the packs/tubs. I even printed the axles assuming I would get the bearings too, which I have in the same order as the cereal boxes.    Note all the Bambu filament my wife ordered for us. Barely seen behind the stack of boxes is more Sunlu PETG out of the box but still in their bags. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By mvintx:I like how the white turned out. Makes me with I'd done the same...guess I can always make more. I did grey at first but I have 4 spools of white PETG so I switched to it. I like it too! |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: I did grey at first but I have 4 spools of white PETG so I switched to it. I like it too! Your PETG looks pretty clean. What nozzle temp did you use on your printer? I did a temp tower with Sunlu PETG and 250-260° seemed to make the cleanest prints. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx:Your PETG looks pretty clean. What nozzle temp did you use on your printer? I did a temp tower with Sunlu PETG and 250-260° seemed to make the cleanest prints. I just checked my profile and it is 255°C for both initial layer and others. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
Sunlu E2 drier is on sale for the lowest it has been in the last 90 days. $254. It has hit that a few times, but here it is again. It is not labeled as part of Amazon's spring sale either. 
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Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Cereal boxes Desiccant Hygrometers S4 Filament Dryer Wall Mounts Desiccant Pods That should get you started.  Sunlu E4 |
Y'all can go to hell, I'll go to Idaho.
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Drying time is dependent on drying temp, and of course the filament type. I think most would say you want to dry Nylon 24 hours generally. Depending on the exact composition, you could get by with as low as 80C, or need 100C or even higher. But dry it for 24 hours. You can heat it while printing, but truly it needs to stay dry. So if you keep it in a dry box that is fine. The suggestions to let it cool is primarily when actually in the dryer. If you pull a roll of filament out of a dryer and leave it in the open air while that hot, it will aggressively reabsorb moisture. Hot filament gets insanely hygroscopic just below Tg which is exactly where we dry them. So be aware of that and you'll be fine.  . When it is done drying, I open it up long enough to feed it to the printer. I ASSUME this is OK since it is only exposed for a minute or two.
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Y'all can go to hell, I'll go to Idaho.
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Originally Posted By mvintx: speaking of desiccant, what are you guys using for pods inside the AMS 2 Pro? Lots to choose from on Makerworld but it's like going to a candy store...what should I get? Link |
Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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Originally Posted By mvintx: speaking of desiccant, what are you guys using for pods inside the AMS 2 Pro? Lots to choose from on Makerworld but it's like going to a candy store...what should I get? I'm using these. I printed them before Obsessed posted a link to his. I really like how the funnel slides on. https://makerworld.com/en/models/ams-2-pro-dry-pods-h2d-with-funnel |
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Originally Posted By ScooterInVegas: I'm using these. I printed them before Obsessed posted a link to his. I really like how the funnel slides on. https://makerworld.com/en/models/ams-2-pro-dry-pods-h2d-with-funnel Originally Posted By ScooterInVegas: I'm using these. I printed them before Obsessed posted a link to his. I really like how the funnel slides on. https://makerworld.com/en/models/ams-2-pro-dry-pods-h2d-with-funnel Originally Posted By ScooterInVegas: I'm using these. I printed them before Obsessed posted a link to his. I really like how the funnel slides on. https://makerworld.com/en/models/ams-2-pro-dry-pods-h2d-with-funnel Mine has a funnel too.  Attached File |
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Really, how important is it to pack out every nook and cranny of the AMS with desiccant? I use my AMS 2 Pro to dry all the time so I only have a refillable pack in the back and one in the from with the rectangle hygrometer. That hygrometer stays at 10% perpetually, except when I open the lid for any real length of time. When I get my dryer finally, I will not be drying in the AMS anymore so would it be more useful then? |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Great, thanks. I want to support Obsessed. He and Blob have provided a ton of information here. |
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@Obsessed @Blob I have been printing the cereal box spool holder but the last set is not as nice as the first set, the brick/grid pattern is not as clean. I've been using the same roll that went through 2 drying cycles for a little over a week and my house is around 50% humidity. - Do you feel a week in this environment is too long and should I have stopped mid week and redried? Secondly, mid print I switched rolls, installed a brand new roll that went through one drying cycle and it printed worse than the old roll (same brand/type). -How many drying cycles are needed for a new roll? |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @Obsessed @Blob I have been printing the cereal box spool holder but the last set is not as nice as the first set, the brick/grid pattern is not as clean. I've been using the same roll that went through 2 drying cycles for a little over a week and my house is around 50% humidity. - Do you feel a week in this environment is too long and should I have stopped mid week and redried? Secondly, mid print I switched rolls, installed a brand new roll that went through one drying cycle and it printed worse than the old roll (same brand/type). -How many drying cycles are needed for a new roll? What filament? What time are you drying? And at what temp, and in what unit? If AMS 2 Pro, do you have the external power adapter? Is the filament you swapped in the exact same? Has the filament been fully calibrated? Answer all those and I can give you clear direction. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @Obsessed @Blob I have been printing the cereal box spool holder but the last set is not as nice as the first set, the brick/grid pattern is not as clean. I've been using the same roll that went through 2 drying cycles for a little over a week and my house is around 50% humidity. - Do you feel a week in this environment is too long and should I have stopped mid week and redried? Secondly, mid print I switched rolls, installed a brand new roll that went through one drying cycle and it printed worse than the old roll (same brand/type). -How many drying cycles are needed for a new roll? Going off memory you're printing petg on a mk4? If so, I'm assuming you have the spool feeding from the stock holder above the machine. IME yes a week in open air will degree print quality significantly. I can tell the difference even in PLA. Ideally you'll feed the filament directly from the sealed cereal container or even the dryer straight into the printer. One drying cycle is enough but it has to be hot enough and long enough. What are your current drying parameters? |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: What filament? What time are you drying? And at what temp, and in what unit? If AMS 2 Pro, do you have the external power adapter? Is the filament you swapped in the exact same? Has the filament been fully calibrated? Answer all those and I can give you clear direction. Elegoo PLA+ Drying for 5hrs at 50c, Sunloo S4 Prusa MK4s Same exact filament, different batch (color is slightly off) No AMS No heated chamber but I do cover the printer with a large box to keep temp swings to a min when the AC kicks on .2 layer height, high print quality. (hangs head in shame) no calibration, but I am reading the calibration thread and will do it. I really need to stick to one brand of filament. Is there a good filament that hits the price performance mark that you like? currently PLA+ is my (only) go to but want to branch out to anything that doesn't need hot temps or an enclosure. -Question about your choice in printers. I bought the Prusa about the time Bambu was making changes in their software, 'phoning home', only Bambu approved prints allowed, big brother is watching stuff. I still don't like the idea of all the above but also considering an enclosed printer, maybe the H series but also not understanding the differences between the models H2S - Single head but AMS can be added, lots of purge H2D - Dual heads, can be coupled with AMS unit(s) still ots of purge but not as much if using only 2 colors H2C - One 'fixed' head and 7 swappable hot ends? In another thread you mentioned waiting for the H3C. I'm wanting an enclosed unit and could always look at the P2S with AMS and deal with the spooge, but am I really buying ancient tech? I'd kinda like to future proof my purchase and willing to pay a bit more to do it. Maybe $1200 give or take but not $2k. Should I wait a year, are we on the cusp of new tech and prices coming down? ETA: I downloaded your 3mf file to Prusa Slicer, sliced it and ran with it. I have no idea if your 3mf setting carried over or if 'my' settings take precedence. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Elegoo PLA+ Drying for 5hrs at 50c, Sunloo S4 Prusa MK4s Same exact filament, different batch (color is slightly off) No AMS No heated chamber but I do cover the printer with a large box to keep temp swings to a min when the AC kicks on .2 layer height, high print quality. (hangs head in shame) no calibration, but I am reading the calibration thread and will do it. I really need to stick to one brand of filament. Is there a good filament that hits the price performance mark that you like? currently PLA+ is my (only) go to but want to branch out to anything that doesn't need hot temps or an enclosure. -Question about your choice in printers. I bought the Prusa about the time Bambu was making changes in their software, 'phoning home', only Bambu approved prints allowed, big brother is watching stuff. I still don't like the idea of all the above but also considering an enclosed printer, maybe the H series but also not understanding the differences between the models H2S - Single head but AMS can be added, lots of purge H2D - Dual heads, can be coupled with AMS unit(s) still ots of purge but not as much if using only 2 colors H2C - One 'fixed' head and 7 swappable hot ends? In another thread you mentioned waiting for the H3C. I'm wanting an enclosed unit and could always look at the P2S with AMS and deal with the spooge, but am I really buying ancient tech? I'd kinda like to future proof my purchase and willing to pay a bit more to do it. Maybe $1200 give or take but not $2k. Should I wait a year, are we on the cusp of new tech and prices coming down? I would dry that at 55 for 12 hours minimum myself. I usually dry hotter for longer but I won't recommend that you do. I've had good results from elegoo PLA+. Pretty decent budget option. As far as printers go, the MK4 is still a pretty solid choice. If I were in your shoes I wouldn't consider upgrading for another year at least. Give yourself some time to figure things out and learn where the printers shortcomings and what you're needs are before dumping it and dropping a bunch of cash on a new system. Who knows, in that time Prusa might pull their heads out of their butts and give us something that can actually compete with bambu. The INDX system should be matured enough by then if that's something that interests you, or bambu will probably release a successor to the H2D if that's more up your alley. If the enclosure is all you're lacking then you can get one for dirt cheap or even DIY a cardboard box setup like you're doing now. If you really want, I do have an enclosure for my mk3 that I'd consider selling for a good price. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Going off memory you're printing petg on a mk4? If so, I'm assuming you have the spool feeding from the stock holder above the machine. IME yes a week in open air will degree print quality significantly. I can tell the difference even in PLA. Ideally you'll feed the filament directly from the sealed cereal container or even the dryer straight into the printer. One drying cycle is enough but it has to be hot enough and long enough. What are your current drying parameters? Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @Obsessed @Blob I have been printing the cereal box spool holder but the last set is not as nice as the first set, the brick/grid pattern is not as clean. I've been using the same roll that went through 2 drying cycles for a little over a week and my house is around 50% humidity. - Do you feel a week in this environment is too long and should I have stopped mid week and redried? Secondly, mid print I switched rolls, installed a brand new roll that went through one drying cycle and it printed worse than the old roll (same brand/type). -How many drying cycles are needed for a new roll? Going off memory you're printing petg on a mk4? If so, I'm assuming you have the spool feeding from the stock holder above the machine. IME yes a week in open air will degree print quality significantly. I can tell the difference even in PLA. Ideally you'll feed the filament directly from the sealed cereal container or even the dryer straight into the printer. One drying cycle is enough but it has to be hot enough and long enough. What are your current drying parameters? @Blob, Using PLA+ on MK4s Yes directly from the exposed spool, I can certainely change to print from the dryer or box, I just didn't realize a week would degrade the print. Is there a general use favorite filamant you like? I've been pretty faithful to PLA+ but always open to new ideas. Most of my prints are kids toys, things for around the house etc... I would like to try a few 2A prints, I don't have heated bed or enclosure. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @Blob, Using PLA+ on MK4s Yes directly from the exposed spool, I can certainely change to print from the dryer or box, I just didn't realize a week would degrade the print. Is there a general use favorite filamant you like? I've been pretty faithful to PLA+ but always open to new ideas. Most of my prints are kids toys, things for around the house etc... I would like to try a few 2A prints, I don't have heated bed or enclosure. PLA+ is overkill for kid toys but is a good choice for 2A as long as you understand its limitations. You can easily print it on an open bed printer like the Mk4. Not sure why you mean by not having a heated bed. The mk4 absolutely does have a heated bed. I use a lot of polymaker PLA pro for my gun parts. It has excellent performance in most categories and is even being made in the USA now. Polymaker as a company is a big supporter of the 3D printed firearm community and has excellent customer service if you run into any issues. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Elegoo PLA+ Drying for 5hrs at 50c, Sunloo S4 Prusa MK4s Same exact filament, different batch (color is slightly off) No AMS No heated chamber but I do cover the printer with a large box to keep temp swings to a min when the AC kicks on .2 layer height, high print quality. (hangs head in shame) no calibration, but I am reading the calibration thread and will do it. I really need to stick to one brand of filament. Is there a good filament that hits the price performance mark that you like? currently PLA+ is my (only) go to but want to branch out to anything that doesn't need hot temps or an enclosure. -Question about your choice in printers. I bought the Prusa about the time Bambu was making changes in their software, 'phoning home', only Bambu approved prints allowed, big brother is watching stuff. I still don't like the idea of all the above but also considering an enclosed printer, maybe the H series but also not understanding the differences between the models H2S - Single head but AMS can be added, lots of purge H2D - Dual heads, can be coupled with AMS unit(s) still ots of purge but not as much if using only 2 colors H2C - One 'fixed' head and 7 swappable hot ends? In another thread you mentioned waiting for the H3C. I'm wanting an enclosed unit and could always look at the P2S with AMS and deal with the spooge, but am I really buying ancient tech? I'd kinda like to future proof my purchase and willing to pay a bit more to do it. Maybe $1200 give or take but not $2k. Should I wait a year, are we on the cusp of new tech and prices coming down? ETA: I downloaded your 3mf file to Prusa Slicer, sliced it and ran with it. I have no idea if your 3mf setting carried over or if 'my' settings take precedence. Okay first step is go through the full calibration process. That starts with redrying the filament. I dry PLA at 65C but I dry on the hot side of the range. I'd do 55 or maybe 60 if you have a high quality dryer. Dry it a minimum of 12 hours. Post results of what the print looks like. We can usually tell if it's wet or if it is a setting. Not all slicer settings transfer between BBS and OS/PS. On the phone home thing, I'll say what I always say. I will not argue that Bambu is Chinese. Absolutely is, and Prusa is not. Undisputed fact. But there are other facts that people don't consider, or are consider myth. For instance, Bambu printers do not require you to phone home. They can be ran offline no different than a Prusa. This is a fact. An undisputed fact. I also believe that if our government wanted to get all our print history, they'd have e one hell if an easy time getting that history from Prusa, who as a member of the EU have zero privacy rights for their citizens and will most certainly trample your privacy rights just as quickly. On the other hand Xi and China will tell the US government to fuck off with that request. Just ponder that, and draw your own opinions after considering. Maybe you agree.nmaybe you disagree. But most don't even consider that scenario. I'd wait if you aren't in a rush. We are in the steepest part of the S curve of 3D printing tech. New features are being pioneered and tested right now, like nozzle racks, independent tool heads, new methods of Multi Material, etc etc. technology becomes more accessible as time goes on. The P2S is arguably better than the X1C that sold for twice the price just a year ago. Take the time to really learn, learn what is important to you, and then assess the market. Maybe you'll want a Bambu. Maybe you'll want a Prusa. Maybe you'll say F it and build a Voron. Who knows. If you insisted on getting something now I'll just say you will be making compromises at your price point in one way or another. Given most of us here print 2A stuff, that is not terribly difficult If you learn the process properly, and have the proper equipment. You can get away printing engineering grade filaments in a P1S or a P2S, but you'll be fighting chamber temps and techniques to stabilize it the whole time, and you'll likely waste more filament via failed prints along the way, or you'll have to buy a chamber heater and deal with the non-integrsted nature of that solution I have 1,100 hours on my H2D with zero failed prints that were not specifically done to force/expect failure. I've literally wasted zero filament on failed prints. That's a benefit of buying the appropriately capable machine from the start, but they are pricier. Again, just a consideration. So...I'd wait. For the record, the H3C is just me speculating that they'll iterate it and release it in a new form. I've not seen anything on it, but it's just a hunch. They spoke of the H2C as a proof of concept more than a final design. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: PLA+ is overkill for kid toys but is a good choice for 2A as long as you understand its limitations. You can easily print it on an open bed printer like the Mk4. Not sure why you mean by not having a heated bed. The mk4 absolutely does have a heated bed. I use a lot of polymaker PLA pro for my gun parts. It has excellent performance in most categories and is even being made in the USA now. Polymaker as a company is a big supporter of the 3D printed firearm community and has excellent customer service if you run into any issues. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @Blob, Using PLA+ on MK4s Yes directly from the exposed spool, I can certainely change to print from the dryer or box, I just didn't realize a week would degrade the print. Is there a general use favorite filamant you like? I've been pretty faithful to PLA+ but always open to new ideas. Most of my prints are kids toys, things for around the house etc... I would like to try a few 2A prints, I don't have heated bed or enclosure. PLA+ is overkill for kid toys but is a good choice for 2A as long as you understand its limitations. You can easily print it on an open bed printer like the Mk4. Not sure why you mean by not having a heated bed. The mk4 absolutely does have a heated bed. I use a lot of polymaker PLA pro for my gun parts. It has excellent performance in most categories and is even being made in the USA now. Polymaker as a company is a big supporter of the 3D printed firearm community and has excellent customer service if you run into any issues. @Blob my mistake, I meant heated chamber. Besides PLA Pro, what are your top used filaments and what is their use case scenario for non-chamber printers. @Obsessed and Blob - I am wanting to upgrade but at the cost to upgrade my MK4S I could simply buy the P2S Combo. So: - I am looking at Prusa-Box (aftermarket), but what does it offer that a large cardboard doesn't, maybe the ability to add filtration, but does a non-heated chamber filament need filtration? (Of course the box I need is out of order) I could always do the Ikea build. - I am also looking at Bluerolls mmu kit https://www.blurolls3d.com/products/blurolls-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk35s-mk39s-mk4-mk4s-core-one-mmu3-12x-filaments-multi-colors-feeder-3d-printing-upgrade-kit?VariantsId=11072 you print your own parts or buy their kit for $165. Ever heard of this company? It appears I can substantially upgrade for under $400 (box and MMU). Every time I look at the upgrade path I get frustrated as it's the price of a new bambu. But per Obsessed's post earlier, waiting a year will likely get me the next better option (at an elevated cost). But I would rather buy once cry once as these seem to last. Obsessed, PM me with the details of the Prusa chamber you have, any options/extras and will it fit MK4s, thanks, |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @Blob my mistake, I meant heated chamber. Besides PLA Pro, what are your top used filaments and what is their use case scenario for non-chamber printers. @Obsessed and Blob - I am wanting to upgrade but at the cost to upgrade my MK4S I could simply buy the P2S Combo. So: - I am looking at Prusa-Box (aftermarket), but what does it offer that a large cardboard doesn't, maybe the ability to add filtration, but does a non-heated chamber filament need filtration? (Of course the box I need is out of order) I could always do the Ikea build. - I am also looking at Bluerolls mmu kit https://www.blurolls3d.com/products/blurolls-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk35s-mk39s-mk4-mk4s-core-one-mmu3-12x-filaments-multi-colors-feeder-3d-printing-upgrade-kit?VariantsId=11072 you print your own parts or buy their kit for $165. Ever heard of this company? It appears I can substantially upgrade for under $400 (box and MMU). Every time I look at the upgrade path I get frustrated as it's the price of a new bambu. But per Obsessed's post earlier, waiting a year will likely get me the next better option (at an elevated cost). But I would rather buy once cry once as these seem to last. Obsessed, PM me with the details of the Prusa chamber you have, any options/extras and will it fit MK4s, thanks, I print a lot of PET-CF for things like grips, stocks, and magazines. Frames and receivers in PA6-CF. Both can be printed successfully without a heated chamber but having one will give you better results. Why specifically are you wanting to upgrade? How long have you been printing? What shortcomings does the MK4 have for your use? I don't know your experience level. If you've been printing for a decade and have decided that what you have isn't working then fair enough, but if you've barely got your feet wet then upgrading from a MK4 just for the sake of upgrading doesn't make much sense to me. If you specifically want multicolor then you can get an MMU3 for half the cost of a P2S combo, and the MMU will print faster and with less waste. I wouldn't waste time or money with that third party unit. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I print a lot of PET-CF for things like grips, stocks, and magazines. Frames and receivers in PA6-CF. Both can be printed successfully without a heated chamber but having one will give you better results. Why specifically are you wanting to upgrade? How long have you been printing? What shortcomings does the MK4 have for your use? I don't know your experience level. If you've been printing for a decade and have decided that what you have isn't working then fair enough, but if you've barely got your feet wet then upgrading from a MK4 just for the sake of upgrading doesn't make much sense to me. If you specifically want multicolor then you can get an MMU3 for half the cost of a P2S combo, and the MMU will print faster and with less waste. I wouldn't waste time or money with that third party unit. The MMU is neither faster nor less wasteful than an AMS. They are rather comparable, though the AMS actually purges much faster. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: The MMU is neither faster nor less wasteful than an AMS. They are rather comparable, though the AMS actually purges much faster. There was a very recent firmware update that reduced the color change time by a full 9 seconds. Also not sure how retracting isn't less wasteful than cutting and purging. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: There was a very recent firmware update that reduced the color change time by a full 9 seconds. Also not sure how retracting isn't less wasteful than cutting and purging. 9 seconds is still nowhere near the same speed. Bambus require 0 seconds for cooling moves, retract and deretraction is 2x faster, and purge vs 100% prime tower flushes filament faster. In terms of waste they are both perfectly capable of being tuned to exactly what is needed to flush the hotend out. I've owned both remember, and they both require a shit ton of purge. The "long tail" isn't eliminated just because you pull the filament vs cut, and the slug you cut and left behind is the first to be flushed before the filament even mixes. I have plenty of prints around here that have obvious color bleed despite a TON of purging on the Prusa I had. We could probably even do a purge calibration comparison just to test it more scientifically. The Prusaslicer times always grossly underestimated filament changeover time so I don't think we can use slicers to compare speed but even so I'd be open to running a test if anyone with MMU3 cares to run one. I sold mine long ago along with the MMU and MMU2 I've also used, but happy to make it scientific. Ish. ETA: I looked at their page that claims the amazing leap forward. They mention they cannot share the settings to get to that speed as it isn't likely to be replicated due to failed filament loads and different purge volumes.  I didn't look to see what the settings were in Prusa Slicer for the slower, published profile but sliced the bin with BBS and it came out to 21:11 including setup time, before any purge tuning. Soooo, not sure how much faster it truly is as Prusa wont share their settings and I'm not going to bother tuning filament for a print I'll never do. But their optimized secret time was 21:48, so already slower than slicing with generic settings. Granted I can't differentiate printer speed in that either. Also learned the MK4 doesn't even have crash detection? WTF. Apparently users are pissed that Prusa promised it two years ago and it still hasn't been delivered. This is the stuff I keep harping about in other threads. Maybe Prusa should be working on getting reliability and promised features out the door instead of trying to close a speed gap they will never fully close.
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Okay I can never leave well enough alone. MK4S + MMU3 with latest firmware profiles on Prusaslicer. Bambu P2S w/AMS 2 Pro on BambuStudio. Same exact 2 color benchy. Prusa I gave the 0.2mm speed profile, Prusament PLA. Bambu I gave the 0.2mm standard profile, Bambu PLA Basic. Both had settings match in terms of walls (2), infill type (grid), infill percentage (15), seam position (back), and top/bottom layers (5). I have calibrated the purge volumes on the Bambu, I don't have the calibrations from the old days but even so they were MK3S+. I did the calculation of how much of the old filament is left in the extruder when cut - 24mm3 - so I added 25mm to the purge volumes on the Bambu purge volumes to account for this, just to level the playing field and fully penalize the Bambu for this (I really don't think it has the full impact, but fine). Print time on the Prusa is 4:41. Print time on the Bambu is 3:16. Filament usage on Prusa is 75.71g. Filament usage on Bambu is 75.75g. Call it a tie. Oddly, the Prusa needs 3 more tool changes vs. the Bambu (173 v 170). Not sure why the logic there, literally the settings are all identical, so must just be a slicer logic anomaly. That's as far as I can get without actually doing a timer or something. Of course, this all assumes both slicers are accurately reflecting real world performance and assumes no interventions, yadda yadda. My point simply is, a Bambu is no worse than a Prusa on filament waste, and even with the adjustments to the firmware logic, a Bambu simply isn't slower than the Prusa on a MM print. I think where the Prusa really struggles to keep up is the fact that the filament load/unload time isn't the full picture. The bambu can purge 350mm3 of filament in about 10 seconds. A Prusa easily takes 30s, probably much longer, to print that through the prime tower. Having a poop chute is a huge benefit here.Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I print a lot of PET-CF for things like grips, stocks, and magazines. Frames and receivers in PA6-CF. Both can be printed successfully without a heated chamber but having one will give you better results. Why specifically are you wanting to upgrade? How long have you been printing? What shortcomings does the MK4 have for your use? I don't know your experience level. If you've been printing for a decade and have decided that what you have isn't working then fair enough, but if you've barely got your feet wet then upgrading from a MK4 just for the sake of upgrading doesn't make much sense to me. If you specifically want multicolor then you can get an MMU3 for half the cost of a P2S combo, and the MMU will print faster and with less waste. I wouldn't waste time or money with that third party unit. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @Blob my mistake, I meant heated chamber. Besides PLA Pro, what are your top used filaments and what is their use case scenario for non-chamber printers. @Obsessed and Blob - I am wanting to upgrade but at the cost to upgrade my MK4S I could simply buy the P2S Combo. So: - I am looking at Prusa-Box (aftermarket), but what does it offer that a large cardboard doesn't, maybe the ability to add filtration, but does a non-heated chamber filament need filtration? (Of course the box I need is out of order) I could always do the Ikea build. - I am also looking at Bluerolls mmu kit https://www.blurolls3d.com/products/blurolls-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk35s-mk39s-mk4-mk4s-core-one-mmu3-12x-filaments-multi-colors-feeder-3d-printing-upgrade-kit?VariantsId=11072 you print your own parts or buy their kit for $165. Ever heard of this company? It appears I can substantially upgrade for under $400 (box and MMU). Every time I look at the upgrade path I get frustrated as it's the price of a new bambu. But per Obsessed's post earlier, waiting a year will likely get me the next better option (at an elevated cost). But I would rather buy once cry once as these seem to last. Obsessed, PM me with the details of the Prusa chamber you have, any options/extras and will it fit MK4s, thanks, I print a lot of PET-CF for things like grips, stocks, and magazines. Frames and receivers in PA6-CF. Both can be printed successfully without a heated chamber but having one will give you better results. Why specifically are you wanting to upgrade? How long have you been printing? What shortcomings does the MK4 have for your use? I don't know your experience level. If you've been printing for a decade and have decided that what you have isn't working then fair enough, but if you've barely got your feet wet then upgrading from a MK4 just for the sake of upgrading doesn't make much sense to me. If you specifically want multicolor then you can get an MMU3 for half the cost of a P2S combo, and the MMU will print faster and with less waste. I wouldn't waste time or money with that third party unit. @Blob thanks for the reality check. I've been printing for about 3 years, I seem to go in spurts. I would still consider myself somewhat of a beginner. The MK4s doesn't really have shortcomings, that I know of other than I'd like a chamber for filtering and the room has some A/C blowing around, possibly affecting the prints, but I also have a large box over it while printing. I really want the multicolor, I don't 'need' any of the other stuff other than I want the latest/greatest. Maybe I'll simply get the MMU and leave it at that for a year or so until I do the 'I want latest XXX; exercise again. Thanks for talking me down ETA: One more pretty major item I didn't think of. With Prusa I feel like I'm living with Beta in a VHS world. Case in point: I went to look for some things to print for the kids; search Printables and find either a few or maybe 10, go to Makerworld and find pages and pages (plus the search seems to find things easier). Also, since things seem to be going toward 3mf, I find that the Prusa slicer doesn't transport the settings, I just realized today the spool/desiccant holder door is supposed to be a grid, Prisa slicer make them solid. If I'm wrong on some of these points please let me know as I am open to learning. All this is not something I can't overcome, but it's still there. If I recall you're a Prusa owner but also design your own objects which takes away the 3mf point. I 'think' there's a way to translate Bambu 3mf into Prusa slicer settings? |
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OK, here's another issue. My son wanedt a karambit knife- 61 on Printables, hundreds and hundreds on Makerworld, I DL it from MW and open it to slice/print. It opens on 6 different build plates, not great. I finally get it to open on one plate but on a Prusa slicer, all the 'build object profiles' are separate lines on the right, there's like 20+ lines. For example, the blade alone has 3 lines, top and bottom layers, and another for the interior. Obsessed, the same happened with your desiccant holder door, it looks like 2 pieces in Prusa instead of one-the frame and then the interior panel, also the interior panel printed solid vs a grid pattern. Since the world is going to 3mf and Prusa doesn't seem to support Bambu 3mf designs, this alone might make me go for a Bambu sooner rather than later. Is there a way around this issue that is easy? |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: OK, here's another issue. My son wanedt a karambit knife- 61 on Printables, hundreds and hundreds on Makerworld, I DL it from MW and open it to slice/print. It opens on 6 different build plates, not great. I finally get it to open on one plate but on a Prusa slicer, all the 'build object profiles' are separate lines on the right, there's like 20+ lines. For example, the blade alone has 3 lines, top and bottom layers, and another for the interior. Obsessed, the same happened with your desiccant holder door, it looks like 2 pieces in Prusa instead of one-the frame and then the interior panel, also the interior panel printed solid vs a grid pattern. Since the world is going to 3mf and Prusa doesn't seem to support Bambu 3mf designs, this alone might make me go for a Bambu sooner rather than later. Is there a way around this issue that is easy? Have you tried OrcaSlicer? No real reason to use PS outside of an INDX setup. Word is you'll be tied to PS if you go that route. OS should open them just fine. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: OK, here's another issue. My son wanedt a karambit knife- 61 on Printables, hundreds and hundreds on Makerworld, I DL it from MW and open it to slice/print. It opens on 6 different build plates, not great. I finally get it to open on one plate but on a Prusa slicer, all the 'build object profiles' are separate lines on the right, there's like 20+ lines. For example, the blade alone has 3 lines, top and bottom layers, and another for the interior. You can please post a link to the model? |
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Originally Posted By ScooterInVegas: You can please post a link to the model? Originally Posted By ScooterInVegas: Originally Posted By bmarshall1: OK, here's another issue. My son wanedt a karambit knife- 61 on Printables, hundreds and hundreds on Makerworld, I DL it from MW and open it to slice/print. It opens on 6 different build plates, not great. I finally get it to open on one plate but on a Prusa slicer, all the 'build object profiles' are separate lines on the right, there's like 20+ lines. For example, the blade alone has 3 lines, top and bottom layers, and another for the interior. You can please post a link to the model? @ScooterInVegas Here toy go! https://makerworld.com/en/models/835492-karambit-x-balisong-butterfly-knife-fidget-trainer?from=search#profileId-786108 It's kinda 'rough' but it is quite functional, very cool that it uses a piece of filament for the blade hinge. It all works pretty good. ETA- I printed a second one w/ different filament and it's much nicer finish. So I DL Orca, made a printer profile, kept getting an error about floating G92 EO floating point something error, groked an answer for a few g-code changes, OS also said Obsessed was using a different version (maybe the advanced tester version?, I went with regular dummy-head version), made a custom Roamr TPU filament profile and process to print my son some crocs, I'll never buy shoes again!! Steep learning curve but thanks @Obsessed and @Blob for helping out, also thx for recommending Orca, I have yet to use it but fingers crossed it'll take care of the 3mf issues I was having. |
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Any recommendation for the 1/2 and 1/4 size spool dry boxes? I've just peen piling them atop each other in the 1kg cerial box but it's not optimized. FYI: as an experiment, I opened and dried (6) 1/2kg spools so I took the just exposed desiccant packs and placed them in a sealed container along with a humidimeter, errrr, humiditymeter, you know what they are. In a sealed cereal box it only dropped the humidity level about 5 points to 46%. I assumed they would be more effective than that. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @ScooterInVegas Here toy go! https://makerworld.com/en/models/835492-karambit-x-balisong-butterfly-knife-fidget-trainer?from=search#profileId-786108 It's kinda 'rough' but it is quite functional, very cool that it uses a piece of filament for the blade hinge. It all works pretty good. So I DL Orca, made a printer profile, kept getting an error about floating G92 EO floating point something error, groked an answer for a few g-code changes, OS also said Obsessed was using a different version (maybe the advanced tester version?, I went with regular dummy-head version), made a custom Roamr TPU filament profile and process to print my son some crocs, I'll never buy shoes again!! Steep learning curve but thanks @Obsessed and @Blob for helping out, also thx for recommending Orca, I have yet to use it but fingers crossed it'll take care of the 3mf issues I was having. I got those same errors when trying to open the drying pods 3mf in orca. Wouldnt let me slice with the bambu printer profile so switched it to my printer and it automatically changed the grid modifier to rectilinear without a warning. I'm sure other things changed as well but I haven't combed through them all. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I got those same errors when trying to open the drying pods 3mf in orca. Wouldnt let me slice with the bambu printer profile so switched it to my printer and it automatically changed the grid modifier to rectilinear without a warning. I'm sure other things changed as well but I haven't combed through them all. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @ScooterInVegas Here toy go! https://makerworld.com/en/models/835492-karambit-x-balisong-butterfly-knife-fidget-trainer?from=search#profileId-786108 It's kinda 'rough' but it is quite functional, very cool that it uses a piece of filament for the blade hinge. It all works pretty good. So I DL Orca, made a printer profile, kept getting an error about floating G92 EO floating point something error, groked an answer for a few g-code changes, OS also said Obsessed was using a different version (maybe the advanced tester version?, I went with regular dummy-head version), made a custom Roamr TPU filament profile and process to print my son some crocs, I'll never buy shoes again!! Steep learning curve but thanks @Obsessed and @Blob for helping out, also thx for recommending Orca, I have yet to use it but fingers crossed it'll take care of the 3mf issues I was having. I got those same errors when trying to open the drying pods 3mf in orca. Wouldnt let me slice with the bambu printer profile so switched it to my printer and it automatically changed the grid modifier to rectilinear without a warning. I'm sure other things changed as well but I haven't combed through them all. I added a separate updated MK4s profile with updated G Code (not certain if they work yet, I saved the original profile: ; Start G-code for Prusa MK4S M115 U3.1.1 ; tell printer latest firmware version (optional but useful) M862.3 P "MK4S" ; printer model check G90 ; use absolute coordinates M83 ; extruder relative mode M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temperature M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temperature (no wait yet) G28 ; home all axes G1 Z5 F300 ; lift nozzle M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temperature M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temperature G92 E0.0 ; reset extruder ; Prime line G1 X60 Y5 Z0.2 F3000 ; move to start of prime line G1 X120 Y5 Z0.2 F1500 E15 ; draw first part of prime line G1 X120 Y5 Z0.2 F1500 E25 ; draw second part (purge) G92 E0.0 ; reset extruder again M221 S100 ; reset flow rate M220 S100 ; reset speed multiplier ;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE G92 E0.0 ; Reset extruder to prevent floating point accuracy error ;[layer_z] M201 X{interpolate_table(extruded_weight_total, (0,4000), (1400,2500), (10000,2500))} Y{interpolate_table(extruded_weight_total, (0,4000), (1400,2500), (10000,2500))} ;AFTER_LAYER_CHANGE ;[layer_z] ;[layer_num] {if ! spiral_mode}M74 W[extruded_weight_total]{endif} |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: That is good to know. They shall get most if not all of my filament business now. $10 a spool for PETG. Sale ends soon. |
Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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Originally Posted By Saker13: Look at my last post in this thread. $10 a spool for PETG. Sale ends soon. Originally Posted By Saker13: Originally Posted By mvintx: That is good to know. They shall get most if not all of my filament business now. $10 a spool for PETG. Sale ends soon. I missed the sale, back up to $19.99, thanks for letting us know, tell us if the sale comes back. |
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Originally Posted By @bmarshall1 : I missed the sale, back up to $19.99, thanks for letting us know, tell us if the sale comes back. I just looked and the sale is still on. You have to be a registered user, signed in and put the filament in your cart to see the $10 price. 10 roll limit. With tax and shipping from AL to NV it came out to $15 a roll. Same order from Polymaker (free ship, tax on non sale price) was $20.50 a roll shipped. For comparison, 10 rolls of elegoo petg pro shipped is $122. They have a 10 roll set of black, red, white and blue for $110. 
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I ordered one of those West3D toaster dryers and it'll be here Monday. I'm looking forward to making nylon spaghetti next week! Originally Posted By Network_Daddy: Is drying that important? I have yet to notice any issues and I live in a rather humid State. Though I suppose I'll find out better as we get into the back end of this summer. Yes. Wet filament is unusable. |
The hardest part about a zombie apocalypse will be pretending I'm not excited.
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Originally Posted By Network_Daddy: Is drying that important? I have yet to notice any issues and I live in a rather humid State. Though I suppose I'll find out better as we get into the back end of this summer. Yes, especially when you start branching out from PLA. |
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Attached File Achievement unlocked: plastic flavored toast |
The hardest part about a zombie apocalypse will be pretending I'm not excited.
Drying Set Up (Page 3 of 4)
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