Posted: 3/16/2009 5:40:56 AM EDT
| What is the typical cost to have a rifle Duracoated? Do people charge different rates depending on the complexity of the weapon (i.e., a plain-jane shotgun vs an AR15 with tacticool accessories)? |
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I do it myself and use an airbrush for best results. The most important thing is to make sure that ALL oils/greases are removed from the firearm surface; use Gun Scrubber or Brake Cleaner, followed by DuraCoat's own degreaser to remove residues.
After the DuraCoat has cured for 24 hours or more, be sure to rub gun oil into the finish to protect it, and wipe clean. It has worked wonders on my DuraCoat jobs (4 so far, but more to follow). If you don't want to do it yourself, I've had great results from Oxford Armory. |
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Everyone is going to charge differently... just like getting an estimate on having your car painted.
Depends on if you're getting a camo job or just one color, depends on the weapon too, some require more work than others. You should figure a couple hundred. $200 to start is probably about right. |
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Aluma-Hyde II and Gun Kote FTW. Unless you don't have the space to do the work. In which case, I have no idea. This. A bought and paid for Duracoat job will start at $200-$250 and go up from there depending on what kind of pattern you want, rifle or handgun, etc. I highly recommend going anothber route besides Duracoat. I figured I'd try it instead of constantly adding coats of Krylon to my working rifles. I followed the factory instructions to the letter. I disassembled my carbine down to the bare receiver. I know what I'[m doing. I used top end tools ($100 airbrush, $200 airbrush compressor, etc.). I use my rifles. After two trips out into the brush, the Duracoat was flaking off from the high traffic areas (safety, etc.), which started a "chain reaction" of peeling all around the carbine. I spent $500 to get set up to Duracoat my shit (compressor, airbrush, Duracoat, etc.) and their piece of shit finish didn't last a week in the field. Fuck LCW and their snake oil bullshit. After doing a little research, I found out that this is actually quite common. The only times Duracoat seems to get a good review is from the guys who spend $500 to have their safe queen decked out in Marpat or the like. Guys who actually use their equipment have found that Duracoat has the staying power of a 15 year old virgin dipping his wick for the first time. Look elsewhere for your refinishing needs. |
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Duracoated my Sully stock. It's chipping a bit in high wear areas (where my fingers pull the CH back) but it's in decent shape otherwise.
If you go with DC, get a cheapo disposable spray gun/airbrush from Harbor Freight to use. Throw the paint jar out when you're done. DC works better than Krylon, that's all I can say. I've never used (or had done) any other finish. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Aluma-Hyde II and Gun Kote FTW. Unless you don't have the space to do the work. In which case, I have no idea. This. A bought and paid for Duracoat job will start at $200-$250 and go up from there depending on what kind of pattern you want, rifle or handgun, etc. I highly recommend going anothber route besides Duracoat. I figured I'd try it instead of constantly adding coats of Krylon to my working rifles. I followed the factory instructions to the letter. I disassembled my carbine down to the bare receiver. I know what I'[m doing. I used top end tools ($100 airbrush, $200 airbrush compressor, etc.). I use my rifles. After two trips out into the brush, the Duracoat was flaking off from the high traffic areas (safety, etc.), which started a "chain reaction" of peeling all around the carbine. I spent $500 to get set up to Duracoat my shit (compressor, airbrush, Duracoat, etc.) and their piece of shit finish didn't last a week in the field. Fuck LCW and their snake oil bullshit. After doing a little research, I found out that this is actually quite common. The only times Duracoat seems to get a good review is from the guys who spend $500 to have their safe queen decked out in Marpat or the like. Guys who actually use their equipment have found that Duracoat has the staying power of a 15 year old virgin dipping his wick for the first time. Look elsewhere for your refinishing needs. Yup.. As a smith i found the same thing happing.. and switched to Cerakote. I found it to be a bit more rugged.. |
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Aluma-Hyde II and Gun Kote FTW. Unless you don't have the space to do the work. In which case, I have no idea. This. A bought and paid for Duracoat job will start at $200-$250 and go up from there depending on what kind of pattern you want, rifle or handgun, etc. I highly recommend going anothber route besides Duracoat. I figured I'd try it instead of constantly adding coats of Krylon to my working rifles. I followed the factory instructions to the letter. I disassembled my carbine down to the bare receiver. I know what I'[m doing. I used top end tools ($100 airbrush, $200 airbrush compressor, etc.). I use my rifles. After two trips out into the brush, the Duracoat was flaking off from the high traffic areas (safety, etc.), which started a "chain reaction" of peeling all around the carbine. I spent $500 to get set up to Duracoat my shit (compressor, airbrush, Duracoat, etc.) and their piece of shit finish didn't last a week in the field. Fuck LCW and their snake oil bullshit. After doing a little research, I found out that this is actually quite common. The only times Duracoat seems to get a good review is from the guys who spend $500 to have their safe queen decked out in Marpat or the like. Guys who actually use their equipment have found that Duracoat has the staying power of a 15 year old virgin dipping his wick for the first time. Look elsewhere for your refinishing needs. sounds like my factory power-coated 870 tactical from remington, it doesn't scratch off- it flakes/peels off. what a waste 
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sounds like my factory power-coated 870 tactical from remington, it doesn't scratch off- it flakes/peels off. what a waste I have heard of this happening a lot. Ruger was doing those camo "finishes" on their 10/22s, and they were peeling off on the store shelves. 
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FWIW, if you apply it correctly, GunKote is arguably the most durable stuff out there. It must be baked on to a thoroughly degreased surface, but otherwise, it is 100% solvent resistant. The only way to get it off is through blasting or severe abrasion.
GunKote is available in aerosol and liquid from Brownells. |
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FWIW, if you apply it correctly, GunKote is arguably the most durable stuff out there. It must be baked on to a thoroughly degreased surface, but otherwise, it is 100% solvent resistant. The only way to get it off is through blasting or severe abrasion. GunKote is available in aerosol and liquid from Brownells. Cerakote.......it is better.....I have guns in Duracoat, Cerakote, Gunkote, Allumahyde II, and K-kote CERAKOTE |
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You guys who are having problems with Duracoat ARE NOT DOING IT CORRECTLY.
I've Duracoated several firearms myself, and none of them have had any flaking or peeling problems, and the finish is very tough. Indeed, my Duracoated guns are holding up better than the "professionally" applied Gunkote'd pistol slide and frame. I've also had not so good results with the Brownell's "gunkote" in a can. The key is to strip the metal not once, not twice, but at least three times with either lacquer thinner or MEK and use rubber gloves. Mix in the hardener on the heavy side, and spray on several light coats. You also MUST let the Duracoat cure for at least two weeks before any use. I didn't do that, and tried to use the gun after about three days, and got a chip that I had to repair. Duracoat is a good product. |
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FWIW, if you apply it correctly, GunKote is arguably the most durable stuff out there. It must be baked on to a thoroughly degreased surface, but otherwise, it is 100% solvent resistant. The only way to get it off is through blasting or severe abrasion. GunKote is available in aerosol and liquid from Brownells. Cerakote.......it is better.....I have guns in Duracoat, Cerakote, Gunkote, Allumahyde II, and K-kote CERAKOTE I've been hearing this as well. I've had some good results with Duracoat, as well as some poor ones. I do it professionally on non serial numbered parts, well, I did for awhile and I've had no complaints. I have been hearing great things about cerakote and will be trying this when I get a chance. From what I hear it is a superior product. |
| I've used just about all of them. Norrell Molyresin is the most durable. I've found no solvent that would touch it including methylene chloride, carb cleaner, all forms of gun cleaners, all forms of brake cleaners, 1,1,1 Trichlor, MEK, acetone. It's good to 1000 degrees, requires no hardner, requires no waiting period to cure. Bakes at 300 degrees for an a hour and you're ready to rock. No pretty fashion colors though. It even bonds thru oil. And you can challenge that statement if you like, but I've cleaned dozens of AK mags by soaking in solvent for days and still have the cosmo come out while baking, never had an issue with the Molyresin bonding. |
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Aluma-Hyde II and Gun Kote FTW. Unless you don't have the space to do the work. In which case, I have no idea. This. A bought and paid for Duracoat job will start at $200-$250 and go up from there depending on what kind of pattern you want, rifle or handgun, etc. I highly recommend going anothber route besides Duracoat. I figured I'd try it instead of constantly adding coats of Krylon to my working rifles. I followed the factory instructions to the letter. I disassembled my carbine down to the bare receiver. I know what I'[m doing. I used top end tools ($100 airbrush, $200 airbrush compressor, etc.). I use my rifles. After two trips out into the brush, the Duracoat was flaking off from the high traffic areas (safety, etc.), which started a "chain reaction" of peeling all around the carbine. I spent $500 to get set up to Duracoat my shit (compressor, airbrush, Duracoat, etc.) and their piece of shit finish didn't last a week in the field. Fuck LCW and their snake oil bullshit. After doing a little research, I found out that this is actually quite common. The only times Duracoat seems to get a good review is from the guys who spend $500 to have their safe queen decked out in Marpat or the like. Guys who actually use their equipment have found that Duracoat has the staying power of a 15 year old virgin dipping his wick for the first time. Look elsewhere for your refinishing needs. Wow... you're right! Garbage.. |
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DC works better than Krylon, that's all I can say. I've never used (or had done) any other finish.  , that's about right.
I'm not really a fan of these type of finishes, because sooner or later, I expect them to come off. FWIW, blueing, anodizing, and parkerizing come off too. |