Posted: 10/10/2011 4:55:13 PM EDT
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ETA - AAR: Problem solved. After rewiring the switches and plugs using the terminals instead of the rear push-ins, there was still no power. I pulled the two other plugs in the bedroom that I also rewired and found one of the hot wires in one of the rear push-ins was not making contact. I rewired both plugs using the terminals and the problem was resolved. THANKS to all who jumped in with advice!
After repainting the bedroom, the wife wanted the wall switches and plugs changed to white. I did so today but do not have power to all the outlets or the ceiling fan. I'm usually very careful, power off and do one wire at a time, but I still have no power. I do have power to the non-switched outlets I also replaced. All are on the same breaker. Three wall switches wired red, black; red, black; black, black: 
Closest non-working wall plug, pretty standard white, black. 
Second wall plug: 
Last non-working plug: 
Okay, what did I get wrong? |
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i have one of these and a wire circuit tracer for these issues: |
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Quoted:
I'm looking at your switches are the same throw as what you replaced? married 25 years and I hate skulling out legacy electrics what is the red doing in the last pic? I replaced what was there with what you see, no changes at all. The last plug had that red, again, all I did was change what was already there with the white plug; I wired it the same as the previous. |
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Kind of looks like you had some 3 way switches and replaced them with non 3 way switches. I'm not certain though...just a SWAG.
Also, someone mentioned 220 volts. I don't see any way possible that there is 220 in there. If there is, the electrician that originally wired that house is a real idiot. The only time that I have seen red wires in 120 volt service is in 3 way switches. CT Builder mentioned a switch controlling only one of the outlets in the duplex outlet and he may be onto something there. I'm not an electrical expert by any means but have done a fair amount of wiring in the past including 3 way switches. |
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Quoted:
Kind of looks like you had some 3 way switches and replaced them with non 3 way switches. I'm not certain though...just a SWAG. Also, someone mentioned 220 volts. I don't see any way possible that there is 220 in there. If there is, the electrician that originally wired that house is a real idiot. The only time that I have seen red wires in 120 volt service is in 3 way switches. I'm not an electrical expert by any means but have done a fair amount of wiring in the past including 3 way switches. Sometimes 3 wire is used to carry two hots with a shared neutral and ground. As hellbound mentioned, I would break that tab on the hot side of the outlet between the top and the bottom if it's a switched outlet. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Kind of looks like you had some 3 way switches and replaced them with non 3 way switches. I'm not certain though...just a SWAG. Also, someone mentioned 220 volts. I don't see any way possible that there is 220 in there. If there is, the electrician that originally wired that house is a real idiot. The only time that I have seen red wires in 120 volt service is in 3 way switches. I'm not an electrical expert by any means but have done a fair amount of wiring in the past including 3 way switches. Sometimes 3 wire is used to carry two hots with a shared neutral and ground. Gotcha. Makes sense. Not SURE I see a real reason for it but in the right application, it might be the right course of action. I have just never had the need to switch on and off one of the two outlets. |
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OP - a few questions here.
How many outlets in the room? What does each switch control? Are the lights and outlets on the same breaker or separate breakers in that room? Do you still have the old switches and outlets kicking around or did you toss them already? |
Need one of these to determine which are the "hot" wires.
One of these to verify "neutrals" and voltage. 
ETA: The red wire indicates that half the outlet was controlled by a switch. The above posters were correct in that the tab between the two "golden" screws needs to be broken off. You need to verify where the "hot" and "neutral" connections stop. |
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Quoted:
You need to snap the tab on that outlet with the red and black wires unless you want it to be 220v That will be the remedy for Phase II of the OP's problem once he's corrected the loss of power issue " Powers working again but the switched half of the receptacle(s) now stay(s) hot all the time " Naturally based on if he's overlooked/unaware of cutting the link |
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sometimes bedrooms are wired with the top outlet switched for a nightstand lamp and the bottom always hot for an alarm clock The way I was taught in tech school, inorder to remain consistent was.... Hot=Top (3 letters)..... Switch=Bottom (6 letters) additionally, if the bottom half is switched, you dont have to swing its cord out of the way to utilize the hot half ...for say, a vacuum sweeper. Just a little methodology madness, courtesy of my Instructor |
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Quoted: You sure all the new switches are good (e.g. no defects/no permanent open)? Quoted: in before the push connection hate LOL. I'm not a fan of the backstab electrical work, myself. Whenever I rewire I use the screw terminals. Those push connections are there to let you know if some soccer mom did the electrical before you. |
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Go back to the JB with all the switches and find feed form the panel (the 'always hot' wire).
It needs to be split to each switch that needs power. The second screw on each switch then goes to the individual outlets the switch controls. Taking pictures before disconnecting anything (but all the switches pulled out of the box) or making a diagram saves a lot of time. . |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Sometimes 3 wire is used to carry two hots with a shared neutral and ground. MWBC? ar-jedi Just make sure you use a two pole breaker with handles tied together. The old rule of 'no handle tie unless a single device strap has both legs' was removed. |
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As an update, I did rewire each switch and plug today using the terminals instead of the rear push-ins (clockwise), still nothing. I left it as is and will troubleshoot this weekend when I have more time. I'll follow the suggestions here and report back with an AAR.
To answer some of the questions: I didn't take pictures ahead of time because I only do one wire at a time per switch or plug. Note to self - take pictures anyways. There are a total of three switches and 6 plugs in the bedroom. The switches control the ceiling fan and ceiling fan light. I thought the third switch was supposed to control the plug with the red wire, but it did not that I'm aware, and, the tabs were intact on the previous plug. The breaker also controls a light in the master bath and one in the bedroom's closet (each are working). All the switches and plugs are on the same breaker. There is power to the other plugs that I did rewire but that I did not picture. I did check the wire nuts in the wall switch box and they are tight. I did buy a tester and there is no indication of power at any of the problem switchs or plugs with the breaker on. I know this has to be something simple, but I guess I'm too simple to figure it out. ETA - The switches weren't 3-way, here's a picture of one of them: 
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ETA - AAR: Problem solved. After rewiring the switches and plugs using the terminals instead of the rear push-ins, there was still no power. I pulled the two other plugs in the bedroom that I also rewired and found one of the hot wires in one of the rear push-ins was not making contact. I rewired both plugs using the terminals and the problem was resolved. THANKS to all who jumped in with advice!
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Quoted:
ETA - AAR: Problem solved. After rewiring the switches and plugs using the terminals instead of the rear push-ins, there was still no power. I pulled the two other plugs in the bedroom that I also rewired and found one of the hot wires in one of the rear push-ins was not making contact. I rewired both plugs using the terminals and the problem was resolved. THANKS to all who jumped in with advice! It's almost always the simplest problems that cause the most headaches!! Note the reason people hate the push in contacts? Thanks for the update!! |
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Quoted: ETA - AAR: Problem solved. After rewiring the switches and plugs using the terminals instead of the rear push-ins, there was still no power. I pulled the two other plugs in the bedroom that I also rewired and found one of the hot wires in one of the rear push-ins was not making contact. I rewired both plugs using the terminals and the problem was resolved. THANKS to all who jumped in with advice! Quoted: You sure all the new switches are good (e.g. no defects/no permanent open)? Quoted: in before the push connection hate LOL. I'm not a fan of the backstab electrical work, myself. Whenever I rewire I use the screw terminals. Like I said, not a fan of the backstab electrical work.  |