Posted: 11/16/2014 11:38:53 AM EDT
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Have a car wash blower / burner to fix. Last 2 guys could not get it to fire. I'll post more later but got it to light 40+ times in a row then left.
Will not fire now. I'm sure it's moisture and rust in threads between spark plug type igniter and housing. Any ideas what product would increase continuity in those threads? Nolax only is corrosion inhibitor I thought. |
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Dielectric=not conductive. He wants to pass current through the threads. OP, try an anti-seize compound that a lot of copper in it. Quoted:
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Thread chaser, then dielectric grease. Nickle never sieze because of the heat involved.. |
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Nickle never sieze because of the heat involved.. Quoted:
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Thread chaser, then dielectric grease. Nickle never sieze because of the heat involved.. That O2 sensor never seize stuff? |
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I'll buy this just to have but won't find it today. It's 0* there and ice on floor already. Need to fly!! |
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That O2 sensor never seize stuff? Quoted:
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Thread chaser, then dielectric grease. Nickle never sieze because of the heat involved.. That O2 sensor never seize stuff? This 
Or This 
Or you can go really overboard and get this 
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Not the sparker most likely, it's probably not sensing the flame after pilot or main burner ignition well, is it a stand alone sensor or does it use the sparker as the sensor? Make sure the pilot orifice is not partially clogged, especially if it's a high humidity area and it's been off for months. Also, make sure the burner runners are clean and rust free if the sensor is a stand alone type and sits at the far end in the burner.
If you can check it [stand alone type] you should be getting 2-4 MV reads across the sensor, [in line with the senor wire] anything less and it will likely act up and shut down. Did you clean the sensor rod and make sure the path to ground isn't rust covered? Since it's timed, even a few seconds of poor conductivity can cause the board to shut the gas valve down. |
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Dielectric=not conductive. He wants to pass current through the threads. OP, try an anti-seize compound that a lot of copper in it. Quoted:
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Thread chaser, then dielectric grease. I know it is non-conductive. I would use dielectric grease first, myself, after cleaning up the threads, especially concentrating around the flange. I've never had a problem with it causing a high resistance situation before on mating electrical surfaces. Just for chits and grins I may try and ohm out a connection sometime with and without dilelctric grease and see if there is any difference. 
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If there's bare metal on both sides of the fittings I'd put put bare metal clamps on both sides of the fittings and connect the clamps with a wire jumper. That'll be a permanent fix. Ground through threads is notoriously unreliable.
Whatever paint or whatever is on the clamps or pipes will have to be removed first. After installing the clamps, cover them real well with RTV or whatever. |
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this |
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That O2 sensor never seize stuff? Quoted:
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Thread chaser, then dielectric grease. Nickle never sieze because of the heat involved.. That O2 sensor never seize stuff? That would be ideal |