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10/4/2009 10:22:12 PM EDT
My wife has a 2000 Mazda Protege with 120k on it. yesterday the check engine light came on, it was late so i took it in today to get it checked. diagnostic at pep boys said it could be o2 sensor, catylic converter or something in that same system.
We let it sit for a few hours and then we had to run out to get dinner. When we went out again, the light went off while driving. Should I be worried or what?
10/4/2009 11:38:22 PM EDT
[#1]
A fault with your O2 sensor or cat converter can ruin your fuel efficiency.   Wait to see if the light comes back on again.  Did the guy at pep boys have a decent code scanner?  I think it would have a different code for both of those but I don't know for sure.

Also watch your fuel economy for any changes.  If the light comes back on I would take it to a mechanic.  Don't bother going there if the light is not on, there is not much they can do.


O2 sensors are cheap and usually easy to replace.

Hope it is not your catalytic converter because they cost a ton of money.
10/5/2009 12:04:14 AM EDT
[#2]
Next time it comes on, have them tell you the actual code, not just what parts they want you to buy...



Then bring the code back here...



An O2 sensor is about $50, the car usually has at least 2 (often more) of them...



Catalytic converters run about $200 each, your car has at least one - plus you get the ever-enjoyable task of cutting metal tubing under your car (you cut the old one out, and fit the new one in it's place with muffler clamps)....



These are fix-yourself prices - as we know, ALL professional car repairs cost at least $400...
10/5/2009 5:01:15 AM EDT
[#3]
they did give me the code but i didn't have it handy. i am more worried that the light randomly went off.
10/5/2009 5:06:53 AM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
they did give me the code but i didn't have it handy. i am more worried that the light randomly went off.


Codes can self clear at times. It's not unheard of. If it comes back on I'd suggest taking the vehicle to a true repair shop for diagnosis and repair.

10/5/2009 8:19:34 AM EDT
[#5]
when the cat was going bad on my TA the light would come and go. One way to  check the cat is to see if it rattles, (rattles=bad) at least thats how mine was.
10/5/2009 7:42:32 PM EDT
[#6]
Can be an exhaust leak or something similar, as well, just large enough to throw off the "acceptable" o2/co2 mixture that the sensors pick up.
Don't be terribly concerned that the vehicle won't drive, unless for some odd reason it starts running badly. It should be fairly easy for a shop to tell you exactly where the problem is judging by the code.

I haven't been running a cat for quite a while, and have consequently gotten some codes to pop up occasionally. Rigged it a little, but not sure if it is making much of a difference.
Either way, the truck still runs well, so can't say I'm too worried.
10/6/2009 5:22:36 AM EDT
[#7]
Not sure if PepBoys pulls the code for you for free or not, but AutoZone, Advance Auto parts, Kragen, O Reilly, etc will do it for free.
10/6/2009 2:25:59 PM EDT
[#8]
Not sure why he would say o2 -or- cat unless the code was a p0420.

A 420 could be the start of a bad cat, let us know what the code was if you have it.
10/7/2009 4:45:23 PM EDT
[#9]
On an OBDII car, including a 2002 Mazda, the check engine light will be lit anytime that the engine management system detects a fault in the emissions system, the lit will be turned off after three successful start cycles without another recurrence of the same fault.

When I worked at the Ford Dealership it was common to get a lot of check engine lights this time of year (in the early spring as well), this is the time of year that many areas are switching gasoline blends, and, in Fords anyway, some vehicles will see the different oxygen levels in the different blend as a rich or lean condition and set a code. This would normally clear up after a tank or two.  There are a million and one different ways to turn on a check engine light, no reason to worry until it comes back. In the meantime pay close attention to the way the vehicle runs, and how much gas it is using.
10/8/2009 7:57:57 PM EDT
[#10]
code was p0171. any more info? TIA
10/8/2009 8:15:46 PM EDT
[#11]
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0171

Technical Description

System Too Lean (Bank 1)
What does that mean?

Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1.

Note: This DTC is very similar to P0174, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time.
10/8/2009 8:26:44 PM EDT
[#12]
so what is the fix/ cost estimate?
10/9/2009 3:54:39 AM EDT
[#13]
Check for vacuum leaks especially at the intake manifold gasket.
Also check for a loose or torn air boot between the MAF sensor and the throttle plate.
10/9/2009 5:41:10 AM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
so what is the fix/ cost estimate?


It all depends on what caused this code. As posted by tarheel_shooter, a P0171 is a lean condition on bank one.  On your Mazda you only have One Bank because it's an inline four cylinder motor.

On your 2000 Protege a P0171 is typically caused by a cracked air intake tube. On top of the air filter housing is the MAF(Mass Airflow Sensor), followed by the air intake tube which leads to the throttle body. When this tube gets cracks in it, usually between the folds, un-metered air gets into the engine and this air causes a lean code(P0171 in your case).

To fix the problem will take about 15 minutes of your time, and all you need for tools is a common screwdriver, and a phillips screwdriver.

First you need to make sure this is the problem, so before you remove the air intake tube, check all the vacuum lines that go to the intake manifold. There's one from the cruise control, one from the EVAP soleniod, at least two from the EGR system and there's also the PCV valve hose and brake booster hoses to check.

After checking and replacing any bad vacuum lines, remove the air intake tube and check it well for cracks, especially at the folds.

If it's cracked just order a new intake tube from the dealer. There is no truly reliable way to repair a cracked tube, and junkyard tubes will probably be just as bad as yours.

One more thing...get a can of MAF Cleaner, no substitute, and spray the inside of the MAF sensor, aiming for the thin wires. The MAF is attached to the air filter housing with two screws, remove it to clean it properly.

10/9/2009 5:41:10 AM EDT
[#15]
Damn, burst fire...I must have Quintin's keyboard.
10/9/2009 8:23:56 AM EDT
[#16]
I agree with the lean assessment.

First and foremost when checking any lean condition, you gotta start looking for vacuum leaks, or any other source of unmetered air entering the engine.  Always, always, always.
10/9/2009 12:08:04 PM EDT
[#17]
wow you guys are good.
was cracked intake hose. fixed now.
Thanks guys!
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