Posted: 1/16/2010 1:33:45 PM EDT
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I will soon be getting my first car I have decided on an FJ40 I have wanted one since I was a little kid. I have a few questions.
Can you remove the top on all fjs and make them soft tops? what is the best size lift and kit? Is dropping a 350 Chevy into it worth it can I put a diesel in it? Thanks, Skyler |
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I will soon be getting my first car I have decided on an FJ40 I have wanted one since I was a little kid. I have a few questions. Can you remove the top on all fjs and make them soft tops? Yes - you can even get half doors - the ones made in Pakistan are almost reasonable what is the best size lift and kit? Dependent - how much do you want to spend and what are you going to do with it? The birfs are a bit fragile - 33's are a good compromise 2.5" most of the reputable mfgs lifts are about the same. 4" lift for 35's. I'd leave it stock and do 31x10.50 - how much clearence do you need in FL? Its a question of cash - how much do you want to spend. Is dropping a 350 Chevy into it worth it can I put a diesel in it? Again - hows your wallet. F/2F is sufficient - its not a modern vehicle. Thanks, Skyler The Real issue is rot - buy the best body you can. Everything you need to know - IH8MUD.com Theres some very decent rucks out there with 4.3/SBC conversions, FI, Lifts, for under $10-15k. Might be cheaper to buy. 
SBC,SM420, Caged, 4 wheel discs- supposedly a very nice truck Martin built right. You could get this for $20k - doubt you could build it for that, if its as good as it looks. Not certain but sound like this is the kind of truck you wanted. Yellow FJ40 |
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I will soon be getting my first car I have decided on an FJ40 I have wanted one since I was a little kid. I have a few questions. Can you remove the top on all fjs and make them soft tops? Yes - you can even get half doors - the ones made in Pakistan are almost reasonable what is the best size lift and kit? Dependent - how much do you want to spend and what are you going to do with it? The birfs are a bit fragile - 33's are a good compromise 2.5" most of the reputable mfgs lifts are about the same. 4" lift for 35's. I'd leave it stock and do 31x10.50 - how much clearence do you need in FL? Its a question of cash - how much do you want to spend. Is dropping a 350 Chevy into it worth it can I put a diesel in it? Again - hows your wallet. F/2F is sufficient - its not a modern vehicle. Thanks, Skyler The Real issue is rot - buy the best body you can. Everything you need to know - IH8MUD.com Theres some very decent rucks out there with 4.3/SBC conversions, FI, Lifts, for under $10-15k. Might be cheaper to buy. http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll44/norcalag/1969%20Toyota%20LC%20Yellow/DSC_0015.jpg SBC,SM420, Caged, 4 wheel discs- supposedly a very nice truck Martin built right. You could get this for $20k - doubt you could build it for that, if its as good as it looks. Not certain but sound like this is the kind of truck you wanted. Yellow FJ40 That is one bad ass FJ, right there! |
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my budget is around $10k I do need a little extra pickup when I touch the throttle mainly because of traffic down here. Can I beef up the stock engine? Sorry for all the questions. It's a inline 6 built for low end torque, not HP, the gearing isn't going to get you more then 60 comfortably unless you rev the whee out of it. Yes it'll go faster but the gas milage will drop like a rock. It'll have enough pickup at low speeds because of the gearing but if you are looking for a point and shoot traffic ride then forget it because it isn't one and never will be. You just have to learn to drive at your own speed and say piss off to the rest of the drivers. |
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From my own personal experience - as in BTDT with a CJ-7 when I was 17 y/o - I say an FJ-40 IS NOT a good vehicle for a new driver in 99% of the situations. Frankly, I'm lucky I survived HS driving my CJ - and I still own it. Short wheelbase, narrow track width, testosterone and questionable reliablity are not a good combination. Besides, MPG is shitty no matter what you do.
I looked long & hard at FJ-40s as well as CJ's before buying mine and they are all money pits - which a HS student (assuming you are a student since this is your first car) can't really afford unless there is family money involved. Brian |
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That I can pretty much leave alone. Not gonna happen unless you buy a brand new Icon or a very expensive fully restored FJ. If you are dead set on an open top FJ40 type vehicle do yourself a favor and buy a Jeep TJ that hasn't been screwed with by a previous owner. The one good thing about buying an FJ40 is that you will become a decent mechanic. Brian |
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I will soon be getting my first car I have decided on an FJ40 I have wanted one since I was a little kid. I have a few questions.
you are still a little kid 
It's a inline 6 built for low end torque, not HP, the gearing isn't going to get you more then 60 comfortably unless you rev the whee out of it. Yes it'll go faster but the gas milage will drop like a rock. It'll have enough pickup at low speeds because of the gearing but if you are looking for a point and shoot traffic ride then forget it because it isn't one and never will be. You just have to learn to drive at your own speed and say piss off to the rest of the drivers.
THIS and even if you do decide you want to force the thing to go over 60 and are OK with 12mpg doing so the road, tire, powertrain and wind noise will completely drown out even the most powerful sound system you put together........which will get stolen if you have a soft top. I drive a Jeep YJ take it from me here's how these type vehicles roll 55mph BOTH HANDS on the wheel except for when shifting $40 sound system you'll never hear so nobody will bother to jack it (never lock a soft top) 16mpg driving 45mph on a trip you will become a great mechanic and bum lots of rides in the process you sill shun this countries interstate hwy system you will borrow moms car for dates if you want to hear the chick next to ya you will borrow moms car for dates because NOTHING is upholstered in the back of your ride and bare steel is COLD on bare skin I do understand the money pit thing. I'm looking for one thats mainly squared away working engine, minimal rust, suspension if possible, etc. That I can pretty much leave alone.
then double your budget |
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Like I said I REALLY want an FJ. Becoming a mechanic isn't a bad skill to have. I will get one with a hard top.
Here are a few trucks I am interested in. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1975-FJ40-great-condition-original-TX-car_W0QQitemZ220539434280QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item33592cb528#ht_500wt_975 http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/cto/1539528683.html http://www.sor.com/sor/showclassphoto.tam?xax=18256&pagenumber.ptx=1&key.ctx=dwebster@treetop.com-12/27/09-16:13:30&pagenumber.ptx=1&year.ctx=1973&pagenumber.ptx=1&model.ctx=FJ40&pagenumber.ptx=1&city.ctx=Yakima&pagenumber.ptx=1&state.ctx=WA&backto=/sor/class_result.tam http://www.sor.com/sor/showclassphoto.tam?xax=18256&pagenumber.ptx=1&key.ctx=robertw709@aol.com-01/02/10-10:13:42&pagenumber.ptx=1&year.ctx=1974&pagenumber.ptx=1&model.ctx=FJ40&pagenumber.ptx=1&city.ctx=surprise&pagenumber.ptx=1&state.ctx=AZ&backto=/sor/class_result.tam this is pretty much what I looking for. |
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Do it and never look back. Get a hard top and don't worry about the soft top part to start they are cheap and all you will really need is a bikini top. Make sure the top seals and weatherstripping is in good shape. From there get in and try everything out. Make sure the heat blows and the 4x4 works. Drive it no less than 30 miles on the test drive so you will fully understand what your getting into. You will not want to go over 55 cause it gets scary. They are not the best to drive everyday but will teach you patience. I loved my orange one and my friend loves his brown one. I will have another 40 in the near future as well but once you get the LandCruiser bug be prepared that from now on you will be a Toyota man. The 2F is a great motor and has all the power you will need. Try to get one with disc brakes already they are more desirable. No major changes thru the years minus the brakes and little looks. Get one spend 5k on it and the other 5k on modding it. Don't worry about a little rust but steer clear of rigs with diamond plate 1/4 covers they are notorious to rust out. Also where the body meets the frame rusts out and makes it worthless to own. I can't describe it well but its about 1.5 ft infront of the rear tire and goes all the way across the rig. Now go and buy one and enjoy it. Get a FJ60/62 for 1500-2000 to drive everyday and the 40 on nice days. The best of both worlds.
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Do it and never look back. Get a hard top and don't worry about the soft top part to start they are cheap and all you will really need is a bikini top. Make sure the top seals and weatherstripping is in good shape. From there get in and try everything out. Make sure the heat blows and the 4x4 works. Drive it no less than 30 miles on the test drive so you will fully understand what your getting into. You will not want to go over 55 cause it gets scary. They are not the best to drive everyday but will teach you patience. I loved my orange one and my friend loves his brown one. I will have another 40 in the near future as well but once you get the LandCruiser bug be prepared that from now on you will be a Toyota man. The 2F is a great motor and has all the power you will need. Try to get one with disc brakes already they are more desirable. No major changes thru the years minus the brakes and little looks. Get one spend 5k on it and the other 5k on modding it. Don't worry about a little rust but steer clear of rigs with diamond plate 1/4 covers they are notorious to rust out. Also where the body meets the frame rusts out and makes it worthless to own. I can't describe it well but its about 1.5 ft infront of the rear tire and goes all the way across the rig.
Thanks for the info! I am going to a local Jeep shop today because there is a guy there that has had FJ40's all his life. My mom drove one when she was in high school so I figured i can too. thanks again for the info. 
Now all I have to do is learn how to drive stick 
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Like I said I REALLY want an FJ. Becoming a mechanic isn't a bad skill to have. I will get one with a hard top. Why do you really want an FJ40? What is it about you and an FJ40 that make it a good match? I'm not trying to be dick just trying to help you out before you spend a lot of money w/o really knowing what it is you want and what you're getting into. Learning to repair your own shit is a great skill to have. If you do get an FJ DO NOT buy one if it does not include a hard top. Once you take the hard top off for the spring/summer you won't want to put on a full soft top - just use a bikini top until fall/winter when the hard top goes back on. Brian |
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I'll leave the decision on what makes the best car for your situation to you. But eyes open. As everyone else has mentioned - This isn't a modern car. Unlike when I was in high school (my first car was a slightly warmed over 280Z that I refurb'd) the internet is a resource that basically lays out all you need to know about the vehicle. Read up and learn. I was lucky enough to have a mechanical background and friends/relatives who knew their stuff and had the right tools - and a local Z club that was very helpful. I've been into Old Land Rovers for years - for all intents basically the same kinda vintage truck with less power and weight.
You will have problems - they are not trouble free. Can you afford to be down if your on your way to work? They do not drive like a modern vehicle - you will need to modify your expectations and driving style. I know FL traffic intimately - Naples is a pain - but I dont see a real issue around town. On the Hwy stay in the right lane and learn to merge. Most of my trucks are 70hp and 120 ft lbs of torque - I get around fine. Unlike Land Rovers the CoG is relatively high - keep that dynamic in mind - worse if you lift. Seeing where you are and what you can spend - you might be able to find something. I cant recommend buying something halfway across the country. You want hands on. Take your time - took me 8 months to find the right Z, 2 years on my first Landy - and I still got huffed. Cultivate the relationship with this local Land Cruiser guy - his knowledge is invaluable Passion is awesome - if you love the trucks no better time than when your young to learn. But temper this desire with the realities of your situation. I could walk to school and ride my bike to my real job at a local dept store. I needed a truck (I mowed lawns summers and plowed) so I had to get that set before my Z - and I didnt want to drive my Z in the winter. So I had to knock that out financially before I did the Z. The Z was often down as I fiddled with it so it was nice to have a working spare. Things to consider. GL |
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Thanks for the help everybody I really do Appreciate it. I will be getting either a CJ or FJ40. And i'm not deviating from those two. (so don't bother trying to change my mind) I am leaning towards the FJ though heavily. As I said earlier - I've owned a '79 CJ-7 since 1987 when I was 17 y/o. What have I learned from 22 years of ownership? If I was buying an open top Jeep today I'd buy a TJ Rubicon - it's a much better starting point AND it will actually be driveable on the highway. My CJ on 33's with a 304 V8, 4.10 gears and a T-18 4spd absolutely sucks on the road and it gets less than 10mpg...... Brian |
ok so you guys are a bunch of pansies jk. The dealership kindly let me borrow a CJ7 for the weekend and I love it. I even learned to drive stick on it. The ride is really not that bad and the only problem I see is there is a little steering wheel slop. I am probably going to end up buying it. I even took it off road . Now what do you guys think the first things I should spend money on putting into the Jeep? Here is a link to the exact Jeep I am getting.
Jeep CJ7 |
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ok so you guys are a bunch of pansies jk. The dealership kindly let me borrow a CJ7 for the weekend and I love it. I even learned to drive stick on it. The ride is really not that bad and the only problem I see is there is a little steering wheel slop. I am probably going to end up buying it. I even took it off road . Now what do you guys think the first things I should spend money on putting into the Jeep? Here is a link to the exact Jeep I am getting.
Jeep CJ7 "Steering wheel slop" - what EXACTLY does that mean? How are the tie rod ends, ball joints, leaf spring bushings? What gears are it the axles? Jeep put in tall highway gears in the later years and with the 31" tires it might be OK but if you go with taller tires you will have lousy accelleration and abysmal MPG. Does it have power steering and power brakes? Missing horn button, pass side front blinker, rear liftgate. Looks like it has extended shackles for the lift - you can see the shackles are angled out in the first picture. These are problematic because the front spring hangers are weak to begin with and extended shackles increase the forces here. You really need to check the two bolts that hold the springer hanger to the frame - the nutserts are notorious for breaking loose and the hangers crack. Check for rust/damage under ALL the diamond plate and check the body mounts/floor pan under the front floor boards. That gas tank is 15 gallons, later model ones are 20 gals - you want the larger tank. The hard doors are early model versions - late model versions have "paddle" handles. The body/tub should be a late model tub based on the roll bar that goes to the floor behind the front seats - my '79 has bolts thru the side of body justs above the top of the rear wheel well. There should be a door post along the inside of the body at the back door opening. IMO you really want the late model doors because they have a full door panel w/o the goofy ass latching mechanism. In the second to last pic - shows the driver side from a rear quatering view - it looks like there might be a rust spot bubbling/showing thru the paint just behind the driver door. Kinda hard to tell so you need to check it out. How long ago was the Jeep painted? Did they remove the fender flares, tail lights, head lights and other items or did they mask them off? Before you buy it take it to a Jeep expert that YOU trust. I'm not trying to crash your dreams - just trying to make sure you go in with your eyes wide open because I've literaly BTDT and have the receipts to prove it. I've broken the stock transmission and both axles while running 31" tires - it got to the point I could have the transmission and transfer case out of my Jeep in ~20 minutes because I had so many problems with the transmission and clutch before I swapped in a hgih dollar aftermarket clutch and T-18 4spd (the T-18 IS NOT the same 4spd trans in that '82 unless someone swapped it in - the T-18 is a heavy duty granny low truck transmission that was last offered in CJs in '79). Brian |
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ok so you guys are a bunch of pansies jk. The dealership kindly let me borrow a CJ7 for the weekend and I love it. I even learned to drive stick on it. The ride is really not that bad and the only problem I see is there is a little steering wheel slop. I am probably going to end up buying it. I even took it off road . Now what do you guys think the first things I should spend money on putting into the Jeep? Here is a link to the exact Jeep I am getting.
Jeep CJ7 Nice CJ looks pretty clean... id check out the frame on it make sure its solid and check for bondo, check under the carpet for a floor. That 4 speed should be a T4 its net a very strong trans i tore one out on my 86 renagade but i wouldn't let that scare you you can always upgrade if you ever tear it up. The 258 is a GREAT engine a lot of low end torque but not much HP but a motorcraft 2100 carb will help it out quite a bit if you ever start tinkering with it. Dana 300 t-case is a really good case. |
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ok so you guys are a bunch of pansies jk. The dealership kindly let me borrow a CJ7 for the weekend and I love it. I even learned to drive stick on it. The ride is really not that bad and the only problem I see is there is a little steering wheel slop. I am probably going to end up buying it. I even took it off road . Now what do you guys think the first things I should spend money on putting into the Jeep? Here is a link to the exact Jeep I am getting.
Jeep CJ7 [i]"Steering wheel slop" - what EXACTLY does that mean? How are the tie rod ends, ball joints, leaf spring bushings? What gears are it the axles? Jeep put in tall highway gears in the later years and with the 31" tires it might be OK but if you go with taller tires you will have lousy accelleration and abysmal MPG. Does it have power steering and power brakes? Missing horn button, pass side front blinker, rear liftgate. Looks like it has extended shackles for the lift - you can see the shackles are angled out in the first picture. These are problematic because the front spring hangers are weak to begin with and extended shackles increase the forces here. You really need to check the two bolts that hold the springer hanger to the frame - the nutserts are notorious for breaking loose and the hangers crack. Check for rust/damage under ALL the diamond plate and check the body mounts/floor pan under the front floor boards. That gas tank is 15 gallons, later model ones are 20 gals - you want the larger tank. The hard doors are early model versions - late model versions have "paddle" handles. The body/tub should be a late model tub based on the roll bar that goes to the floor behind the front seats - my '79 has bolts thru the side of body justs above the top of the rear wheel well. There should be a door post along the inside of the body at the back door opening. IMO you really want the late model doors because they have a full door panel w/o the goofy ass latching mechanism. In the second to last pic - shows the driver side from a rear quatering view - it looks like there might be a rust spot bubbling/showing thru the paint just behind the driver door. Kinda hard to tell so you need to check it out. How long ago was the Jeep painted? Did they remove the fender flares, tail lights, head lights and other items or did they mask them off? Before you buy it take it to a Jeep expert that YOU trust. I'm not trying to crash your dreams - just trying to make sure you go in with your eyes wide open because I've literaly BTDT and have the receipts to prove it. I've broken the stock transmission and both axles while running 31" tires - it got to the point I could have the transmission and transfer case out of my Jeep in ~20 minutes because I had so many problems with the transmission and clutch before I swapped in a hgih dollar aftermarket clutch and T-18 4spd (the T-18 IS NOT the same 4spd trans in that '82 unless someone swapped it in - the T-18 is a heavy duty granny low truck transmission that was last offered in CJs in '79). Brian The steering Wheel will turn about eight inches either way without steering the Jeep. The frame has no rust and the tub has minimal rust areas. The area by the drivers side door does not have a bubble of rust its just the photo. What do you recommend doing to the extended shackles? What do you recommend for a top? I really don't like having to have 3 people to take the top off. Thanks! |
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The steering Wheel will turn about eight inches either way without steering the Jeep. A large part of this is due to the extended shackles, not all but a lot. Have someone turn the steering wheel while you watch the front shackles - notice how the move side to side? The extended shackles amplify this problem on an already lousy design - remember the two bolts holding the spring hanger on?. Check the steering box mounts, tie rod ends on the drag link and tie rod and ball joints. Also check the steering box itself for slop/wear at the sector shaft (where the pitman arm attaches to the steering box - look for the big nut on the shaft coming out of the bottom of the steering box. IMO, I would install a shackle reversal from Mountain Off Road Enterprises. Before someone says otherwise - remember this is a daily driver for a new driver, not a hard core offroad toy. Does the CJ have power steering and power brakes? If not - pass on that particular CJ. The frame has no rust and the tub has minimal rust areas. Check the frame near all the spring hangers/mounts and steering box for cracks - look for cracks staring from existing holes. Any rust on the windshield frame or under the roll bar mounting feet? The area by the drivers side door does not have a bubble of rust its just the photo. Check under the diamond plate - diamond plate gets installed to cover dents & rust. What do you recommend doing to the extended shackles? Get rid of them - see above What do you recommend for a top? I really don't like having to have 3 people to take the top off. Find bigger friends  Taking the top off a CJ-7 shouldn't take 3 people - the top if fiberglass and much lighter than the FJ-40 steel hard top. There are pulley system kits that attach to the cieling to lift the top and store it - check www.4wdhardware.com.
Thanks! What is the seller going to do about the missing spare tire, lift gate, turn signal, horn button? Jeeps are fun and you will learn a lot whether you want to or not...... Brian |
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It does have power steering and power brakes. I will check under the diamond plate tomorrow. So if I remove the shackles where do I mount the springs or do I get shorter ones? It does have the spare tire, lift gate, turn signal, and horn button he had spares. You can get shorter shackles - shackles are required to let the spring extend as it is compressed flattens out. Extended shackles are a cheap way to lift a vehicle - the problem is that in order to get a 1" lift the shackle needs to be ~2" longer than stock. As the shackle on the front of the spring gets longer the caster and pinion angles change and this leads to binding ujoints and steering issues. A good homework assignment for you will be to look up "caster" and "pinion angle" to figure out why this happens - report back tomorrow
Enroll in an autoshop class and learn the basics. Buy a Factory Service Manual for the specific model year - not the Chilton/Haynes crap that tries to cover ~50 years of CJ models in one little book. Find a Jeep Club in your area and befriend the old guys. Brian |
| The shackles don't look that much longer maybe 1" they are fine.... Where is the lift gate on the hardtop? I would definitely be asking about that those are expensive to replace. Those doors didn't come on that jeep either that's the old 76-77 style handles I hope that guy swaped the strikers over on it too. |
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The shackles don't look that much longer maybe 1" they are fine.... Define "fine" when the steering wheel turns 8" before the wheels move...... Something isn't right in that front end and the extended shackles might not be the root cause but they are a huge contributor. Brian |
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The shackles don't look that much longer maybe 1" they are fine.... Define "fine" when the steering wheel turns 8" before the wheels move...... Something isn't right in that front end and the extended shackles might not be the root cause but they are a huge contributor. Brian The shackles don't have anything to do with the 8" of play. Something else is wrong probably tie rod ends or, ball joints or, maybe spring bushings or, steering gear or, steering shaft joints... it could be any of those things but the shackles don't have anything to do with it that i guarantee. If they looked like this you might have 8" of play... http://i50.tinypic.com/4l2cy0.jpg or http://i45.tinypic.com/2mrusqu.jpg |
there is nothing that is funner than a FJ40.......well maybe a 45 LPB or LV but thats a different story 
Mud is the place to learn ALL about Cruisers(and more) like its been said buy the most rust free body you can find, latter 40's rotted worse than ealier but 76+ are much better drivers, 81+ the best drivers, my stock 82 FJ40 will do 90 MPH with just 1 finger on the wheel got my 1st Cruiser at 30 years old......like you I wanted one since a kid....but could not afford it untill 30, by the time I was 40 I had 15 Cruisers.....at 44 I have 8 left most all my Cruisers came from the original local owners.....my 82 came from the widow of the orignal owner....I could have looked all my life and would not have found a better 40 
gave this one to my buddy, had a 350 in it.....I hated it 
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The shackles don't look that much longer maybe 1" they are fine.... Define "fine" when the steering wheel turns 8" before the wheels move...... Something isn't right in that front end and the extended shackles might not be the root cause but they are a huge contributor. Brian The shackles don't have anything to do with the 8" of play. Something else is wrong probably tie rod ends or, ball joints or, maybe spring bushings or, steering gear or, steering shaft joints... it could be any of those things but the shackles don't have anything to do with it that i guarantee. If they looked like this you might have 8" of play... http://i50.tinypic.com/4l2cy0.jpg or http://i45.tinypic.com/2mrusqu.jpg Hmm, who else mentioned the items in blue...... I forgot about the steering shaft - thanks for pointing that one out. I beg to differ regarding the shackles "don't have anything to do with it that i guaranteeand" I'll rely on my mechanical engineering degree, experience designing SCORE Trophy Truck suspension/chassis components, experience working on/racing Class 3/5/1600 cars and owning a CJ-7 for 23 years to make that decision. Brian |
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there is nothing that is funner than a FJ40.......well maybe a 45 LPB or LV but thats a different story
Mud is the place to learn ALL about Cruisers(and more) like its been said buy the most rust free body you can find, latter 40's rotted worse than ealier but 76+ are much better drivers, 81+ the best drivers, my stock 82 FJ40 will do 90 MPH with just 1 finger on the wheel got my 1st Cruiser at 30 years old......like you I wanted one since a kid....but could not afford it untill 30, by the time I was 40 I had 15 Cruisers.....at 44 I have 8 left most all my Cruisers came from the original local owners.....my 82 came from the widow of the orignal owner....I could have looked all my life and would not have found a better 40 http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/691553/1566988/111024886.jpg http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/691553/4233613/56435088.jpg http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/691553/1165044/57547983.jpg gave this one to my buddy, had a 350 in it.....I hated it http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/691553/2874015/64233953.jpg http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/691553/1150006/58389301.jpg that green FJ is beautiful 
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