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Posted: 8/25/2024 1:19:28 PM EST
[#1]
If you go brass, will you be making brass screws to match?
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Posted: 8/25/2024 1:23:14 PM EST
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ZitiForBreakfast: Not my gig, but neat to see GD doing something other than bitch  Pretty badass'd, OP. Sums up my thoughts, too, especially the highlighted bit. |
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Posted: 8/25/2024 1:26:26 PM EST
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RV8guy: Hey! There is no need the get @Brass involved. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RV8guy: Originally Posted By Denwad: Brass ! Hey! There is no need the get @Brass involved. I love build projects! |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 8/25/2024 1:28:37 PM EST
[#4]
OP is a pretty cool guy. Looking good so far.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 8/25/2024 1:34:34 PM EST
[#5]
Fallout build in IRL are so good. Keep it up the good work.
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USA
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Posted: 8/25/2024 1:38:43 PM EST
[#6]
I am suffering from the deadly sin of ENVY. I want a rifle like this so bad, but I do not have anything like the time, talent or tools to make it myself. Good job OP.
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Posted: 8/26/2024 11:59:39 AM EST
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Vegitan: If you go brass, will you be making brass screws to match? I probably could 🤔 I might prefer to contrast with the brass with steel though. Finished the aluminum version yesterday. It’s hard to tell but the holes in this chunk of aluminum are bored at an angle… I think it ended up being about 6 degrees. There’s also a similarly angled divot on the back for the end of the buffer tube.  Attached FileI had the idea to checker it like a Garand or early AR-10. I had some small v shaped cutters that worked perfectly and then I milled off the parts I wanted to be smooth. Traced around the stock and cut off the excess with the bandsaw. Did you know cutting metal with a wood bandsaw is not the best idea? That stuff gets hot.   Attached FileAll the shaping was done on a small belt sander with a bucket of water to keep the part cool and help keep the dust down. Broke my 120 grit belt and all I had left was 200 so it took a bit longer than it could have. Also made a few trips back to the mill to trim the checkering to conform to the changing shape.  Attached FileSet the belt sander to an angle and beveled the edges and then cleaned it up and polished it with some sand paper. Its not brass but think I kinda like it.  Attached FileI think it fits the Fallout aesthetic. Still might make one in brass later but, I might move on to the pistol grip and see how it all goes together. |
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Posted: 8/26/2024 4:27:22 PM EST
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: I probably could 🤔 I might prefer to contrast with the brass with steel though. Finished the aluminum version yesterday. It’s hard to tell but the holes in this chunk of aluminum are bored at an angle… I think it ended up being about 6 degrees. There’s also a similarly angled divot on the back for the end of the buffer tube. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4883_jpeg-3305276.JPG I had the idea to checker it like a Garand or early AR-10. I had some small v shaped cutters that worked perfectly and then I milled off the parts I wanted to be smooth. Traced around the stock and cut off the excess with the bandsaw. Did you know cutting metal with a wood bandsaw is not the best idea? That stuff gets hot. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4884_jpeg-3305277.JPG All the shaping was done on a small belt sander with a bucket of water to keep the part cool and help keep the dust down. Broke my 120 grit belt and all I had left was 200 so it took a bit longer than it could have. Also made a few trips back to the mill to trim the checkering to conform to the changing shape. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4886_jpeg-3305280.JPG Set the belt sander to an angle and beveled the edges and then cleaned it up and polished it with some sand paper. Its not brass but think I kinda like it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4889_jpeg-3305284.JPG I think it fits the Fallout aesthetic. Still might make one in brass later but, I might move on to the pistol grip and see how it all goes together. Definitely fits - and looks great. |
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Posted: 8/26/2024 4:38:00 PM EST
[#9]
Wow, you're doing amazing work!!
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Posted: 8/26/2024 4:50:10 PM EST
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By xylo: Wow, you're doing amazing work!! This. If I had tried that it would look like a 5 year old did it
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Posted: 8/26/2024 4:53:51 PM EST
[#11]
Originally Posted By 57Octane: I wanted to build a service rifle from Fallout New Vegas for a while but I just couldn’t justify the cost of the wood furniture. One of the local flea market type stores happened to have a booth with some live edge walnut slabs and I got an idea. I can make my own wood furniture. I thought to start with the stock since boring a giant hole through a 9in chunk of wood seemed… troublesome. So I bought a 1 1/8 forstner bit, a 10in extender and… some scrap metal to make my harbor freight bench top drill taller. I came up with a janky way to clamp it all in place and got started. The set up: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4837_jpeg-3301410.JPG Some 1in steel tube, all thread, a steel plate and some nuts, bolts and washers make thing about a foot taller. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4838_jpeg-3301412.JPG That’s a nice deep hole. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4839_jpeg-3301414.JPG Well… it’s a start. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4840_jpeg-3301415.JPG I’m not really a wood worker per se… so we’ll see how this goes. Updates to follow. OP ain't kidding when he says 'jank as hell' And the Pic of the stockmockupis hilarious. |
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Posted: 8/26/2024 4:57:28 PM EST
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Molasses: After taking a hiatus of a few years, I got back in FNV not all that long ago (probably due to the ads about the show and threads here about it getting my interest back up). Found out there were a LOT of mods that I had missed, including this one: https://www.nexusmods.com/newvegas/mods/67481 It's even a viable choice for use throughout the rest of the game after being modded. A few playthroughs with that and I'll never willingly use the vanilla one again. I keep wondering if a Bear Creek .50 Beowulf upper could be used as the starting point for a build (at least it would be a side-charger), but then I think of the negative reviews and the amount of work it would take to start looking remotely right and quit wondering until the next time around. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Molasses: Originally Posted By TheTallest: It's not really gonna be Randall Clark's rifle if it doesn't had a canted front sight. Just kidding, I've always wanted to do a Survivalist rifle build myself. After taking a hiatus of a few years, I got back in FNV not all that long ago (probably due to the ads about the show and threads here about it getting my interest back up). Found out there were a LOT of mods that I had missed, including this one: https://www.nexusmods.com/newvegas/mods/67481 It's even a viable choice for use throughout the rest of the game after being modded. A few playthroughs with that and I'll never willingly use the vanilla one again. I keep wondering if a Bear Creek .50 Beowulf upper could be used as the starting point for a build (at least it would be a side-charger), but then I think of the negative reviews and the amount of work it would take to start looking remotely right and quit wondering until the next time around. Wait... you seriously downloaded a mod that broke the front sight of the Survivalist's rifle? Are you serious? The Survivalist's rifle was my favorite weapon in NV and I never thought about "fixing" the front sight so it was straight. Once you figured out how to aim it - it worked perfectly. |
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Posted: 8/26/2024 5:33:13 PM EST
[#13]
Tagscribe for updates… cool project OP.
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Posted: 8/26/2024 5:36:33 PM EST
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aggie_Gunner: Tagscribe for updates… cool project OP. |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 8/26/2024 5:37:06 PM EST
[#15]
Love FoNV. Seriously one of the best RPGs ever.
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Posted: 8/28/2024 12:11:13 PM EST
[#16]
Pistol grip progress!
Third time is a charm Almost all of this was done on the mill. Started with a suitable sized block of walnut and trued the sides up. Drew some centerlines and drilled the screw hole. 1/4 on one end and 1/2 on the other to the depths I wanted. Next it got rotated 90 degrees to mill the grip boss area. Round the edge with a corner radius router bit.  Attached FileFollowing the print from the TDP I did the grip slot and safety detent hole.  Attached FileI cut it down to size with my trusty 40mm facing cutter. This is where I screwed up the first one. I was using a smaller end mill and didn’t have the block clamped tight enough and it got yanked up into the cutter.   Attached FileMill away some of the excess to start roughing out contours. This is where I messed up the 2nd time. I cut way too deep on the front strap of the grip. No way to fix without ruining the geometry or adding wood.  Attached FileDraw knife and chisels and rasps to start shaping.  Attached FileI’m going for an A1/A2 hybrid, no sling swivel hole and no finger bump. Might try to make one closer to the game model later now that I have some experience. Also working on a custom grip screw. |
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Posted: 8/28/2024 12:13:52 PM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MVolkJ: There was one over on r/guns. IIRC the FSB was a pain; required sourcing a long-out-of-production DPMS part. Tagging to see where this goes. Here's my build - I did not use an 80% lower, just a Brownells A1 stripped lower. I had it laser engraved by a local shop. https://i.imgur.com/rgfEmCx.jpg https://i.imgur.com/nb8ez5V.jpg https://i.imgur.com/DFFAT3C.jpg That is some awesome work you've done. If no one has said "wood wood" yet, let me be the first. |
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Posted: 8/28/2024 12:21:38 PM EST
[#18]
Nice work...and what a fun project...
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Posted: 8/28/2024 1:51:16 PM EST
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: Pistol grip progress! Third time is a charm Almost all of this was done on the mill. Started with a suitable sized block of walnut and trued the sides up. Drew some centerlines and drilled the screw hole. 1/4 on one end and 1/2 on the other to the depths I wanted. Next it got rotated 90 degrees to mill the grip boss area. Round the edge with a corner radius router bit. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4901_jpeg-3307033.JPG Following the print from the TDP I did the grip slot and safety detent hole. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4902_jpeg-3307036.JPG I cut it down to size with my trusty 40mm facing cutter. This is where I screwed up the first one. I was using a smaller end mill and didn’t have the block clamped tight enough and it got yanked up into the cutter. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4903_jpeg-3307039.JPG Mill away some of the excess to start roughing out contours. This is where I messed up the 2nd time. I cut way too deep on the front strap of the grip. No way to fix without ruining the geometry or adding wood. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4905_jpeg-3307040.JPG Draw knife and chisels and rasps to start shaping. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4906_jpeg-3307043.JPG I’m going for an A1/A2 hybrid, no sling swivel hole and no finger bump. Might try to make one closer to the game model later now that I have some experience. Also working on a custom grip screw. Will you be adding checkering to a few spots on this or just finish when it's close before you mess it up? Checkering would be a lot easier if you have a mill to hold the checkering tool square while you run the table back and forth, way safer than by hand. Just depends if you have a DRO or not and if you can get it mounted so the checkering is at the right angle 45-60° ish to a clamp surface. |
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Posted: 8/28/2024 2:05:43 PM EST
[#20]
Looking good!
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Posted: 8/28/2024 2:51:31 PM EST
[#21]
Keep going OP. Hot stuff
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Posted: 8/28/2024 3:58:20 PM EST
[#22]
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Posted: 8/28/2024 6:15:07 PM EST
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By brass: Will you be adding checkering to a few spots on this or just finish when it's close before you mess it up? Checkering would be a lot easier if you have a mill to hold the checkering tool square while you run the table back and forth, way safer than by hand. Just depends if you have a DRO or not and if you can get it mounted so the checkering is at the right angle 45-60° ish to a clamp surface. No checkering in this one. It’s not on the game version and yeah, I’d definitely be worried about screwing up. However, your advice is excellent. I hadn’t even considered using the mill for checkering in that way. That’s ingenious sir, thank you for sharing that. Here’s the grip screw I made:  Attached FileNeeded a long one and didn’t want to special order or resort to an Allen bolt. Gotta keep it slotted like it’s the 50s. Started with a 1/4x4in stainless bolt and used the mill as a lathe to turn the hex head down into a pan head. Used a 1/16 end mill to slot it and then cut it down to 3in and re-threaded for the correct pitch. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 8/28/2024 6:27:43 PM EST
[#24]
That is some amazing craftsmanship!!!
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Posted: 8/29/2024 4:52:00 PM EST
[#25]
Got the grip finish sanded.
 Attached FileHad a few chips around the bottom edge but, I think that’ll give it character. It’s supposed to have survived a nuclear war after all. Here it all is put together.  Attached File Attached FileI may or may not have started to apply some boiled linseed oil already.  After the first few coats I’ll mix in a little Japan drier for the last few to make sure it sets up solid. The warm weather over the next few days should help it cure as well. Still need to finish the lower and maybe do a few other things. I’d love to do a custom flash hider but I really need a lathe for that. |
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Posted: 8/29/2024 4:57:03 PM EST
[#26]
That looks fantastic. Well done!
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Posted: 8/29/2024 5:26:22 PM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MVolkJ: That looks fantastic. Well done! |
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Posted: 8/29/2024 6:41:25 PM EST
[#28]
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NH, USA
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Posted: 8/29/2024 9:44:01 PM EST
[#29]
Awesome build
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Posted: 8/29/2024 9:48:26 PM EST
[#30]
Great work!
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Posted: 8/29/2024 11:54:59 PM EST
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: Got the grip finish sanded. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4950_jpeg-3308062.JPG Had a few chips around the bottom edge but, I think that’ll give it character. It’s supposed to have survived a nuclear war after all. Here it all is put together. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4948_jpeg-3308065.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4947_jpeg-3308063.JPG I may or may not have started to apply some boiled linseed oil already. After the first few coats I’ll mix in a little Japan drier for the last few to make sure it sets up solid. The warm weather over the next few days should help it cure as well. Still need to finish the lower and maybe do a few other things. I’d love to do a custom flash hider but I really need a lathe for that. 
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Posted: 8/30/2024 8:30:00 PM EST
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: Got the grip finish sanded. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4950_jpeg-3308062.JPG Had a few chips around the bottom edge but, I think that’ll give it character. It’s supposed to have survived a nuclear war after all. Here it all is put together. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4948_jpeg-3308065.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4947_jpeg-3308063.JPG I may or may not have started to apply some boiled linseed oil already. After the first few coats I’ll mix in a little Japan drier for the last few to make sure it sets up solid. The warm weather over the next few days should help it cure as well. Still need to finish the lower and maybe do a few other things. I’d love to do a custom flash hider but I really need a lathe for that. You seem to be able to move a mill around, get a lathe with a DRO and you should be fine. Lots of them in the very low 4 digit range from school auctions, shipping costs as much as the lathe does though, harder than shipping a damn car. If you have an XYZ DRO on your mill, you could work op a lathe tool rest and use a head-removed bolt screwed into the back of flash hider for your mill to work like a lathe enough for a flash hider, especially since it's soft wood and a hand gouge is all you'd need. It's looking good, though since you already put oil on it, you need to start mixing in shellac with the oil at 25% then 50% with the final being a 100% shellac rub. That stands up to most everything except alcohol since shellac is alcohol solvent base. The oil would help protect against it going too deep but alcohol is a good solvent so ou use lots of layers. Make sure to wipe up spills quick and do a bit of oil/shellac rub to fix the boo boo and you are good to go again . That's the basic start recipe of the "French Polish" but you don't need to go to high gloss, just something to prevent the wood drying or absorbing water and cracking. |
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Posted: 9/1/2024 10:28:06 AM EST
[#33]
@brass
Unfortunately my “shop/storage shed” is very ill equipped for a decent sized “real” lathe. I’m limited to smaller bench top sized equipment for now. I did have an idea similar to what you suggest with using the mill as a lathe though. I was going to do straight boiled linseed oil (I’m already a few coats in) and a final coat of wax. Will that not be sufficient protection for a stock? So far the lower has been fully lowered and reprofiled. It’s one of those new cero forgings so it doesn’t have the detent tunnel but neither does the game model.  Attached FileI’ve done electro etch engraving before so that’s what I’ll be going with here. Just need to decide on a design. I’ve got 4 contestants.  Attached File Attached FileA. Is based on the in game design. I wanted something a bit more unique though (and not made in Canada… no offense Canadians ) I had the idea to do a war time manufacturer as an homage to the A1s made by GM and H&R during Vietnam. The Fallout equivalent for GM is Chryslus Motors. B. Uses the car company logo from the game. I think it looks too modern personally. C. Is a straight send off of the GM Hydra-matric lower. D. Is a variant of A. Personally… I’m leaning toward C for simplicity since simple is cheap and in Fallout, corporations are cheap |
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Posted: 9/1/2024 1:33:22 PM EST
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: @brass Unfortunately my “shop/storage shed” is very ill equipped for a decent sized “real” lathe. I’m limited to smaller bench top sized equipment for now. I did have an idea similar to what you suggest with using the mill as a lathe though. I was going to do straight boiled linseed oil (I’m already a few coats in) and a final coat of wax. Will that not be sufficient protection for a stock? So far the lower has been fully lowered and reprofiled. It’s one of those new cero forgings so it doesn’t have the detent tunnel but neither does the game model. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4996_jpeg-3310515.JPG I’ve done electro etch engraving before so that’s what I’ll be going with here. Just need to decide on a design. I’ve got 4 contestants. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/falloutlwr1_jpeg-3310516.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/falloutlwr2_jpeg-3310517.JPG A. Is based on the in game design. I wanted something a bit more unique though (and not made in Canada… no offense Canadians ) I had the idea to do a war time manufacturer as an homage to the A1s made by GM and H&R during Vietnam. The Fallout equivalent for GM is Chryslus Motors. B. Uses the car company logo from the game. I think it looks too modern personally. C. Is a straight send off of the GM Hydra-matric lower. D. Is a variant of A. Personally… I’m leaning toward C for simplicity since simple is cheap and in Fallout, corporations are cheap Can you mill a detent tunnel to drive you mad? I like B, but if going full "Game Authentic", then A. B is just to avoid copyright issues since it could be played off 'in the style of...' rather than "from game". |
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Posted: 9/1/2024 2:04:54 PM EST
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: @brass Unfortunately my “shop/storage shed” is very ill equipped for a decent sized “real” lathe. I’m limited to smaller bench top sized equipment for now. I did have an idea similar to what you suggest with using the mill as a lathe though. I was going to do straight boiled linseed oil (I’m already a few coats in) and a final coat of wax. Will that not be sufficient protection for a stock? So far the lower has been fully lowered and reprofiled. It’s one of those new cero forgings so it doesn’t have the detent tunnel but neither does the game model. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4996_jpeg-3310515.JPG I’ve done electro etch engraving before so that’s what I’ll be going with here. Just need to decide on a design. I’ve got 4 contestants. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/falloutlwr1_jpeg-3310516.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/falloutlwr2_jpeg-3310517.JPG A. Is based on the in game design. I wanted something a bit more unique though (and not made in Canada… no offense Canadians ) I had the idea to do a war time manufacturer as an homage to the A1s made by GM and H&R during Vietnam. The Fallout equivalent for GM is Chryslus Motors. B. Uses the car company logo from the game. I think it looks too modern personally. C. Is a straight send off of the GM Hydra-matric lower. D. Is a variant of A. Personally… I’m leaning toward C for simplicity since simple is cheap and in Fallout, corporations are cheap Of these, I agree with C. However, unlike the Survivalist's rifle, most of the service rifles the NCR uses are post-war guns made for them by the Gun Runners. Some of them use pre-war receivers, but I'm not sure those guns would be marked "service rifle" - they'd likely have the markings from whatever rifle they were before - assault carbine, etc. |
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Posted: 9/1/2024 7:21:43 PM EST
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: @brass Unfortunately my “shop/storage shed” is very ill equipped for a decent sized “real” lathe. I’m limited to smaller bench top sized equipment for now. I did have an idea similar to what you suggest with using the mill as a lathe though. I was going to do straight boiled linseed oil (I’m already a few coats in) and a final coat of wax. Will that not be sufficient protection for a stock? So far the lower has been fully lowered and reprofiled. It’s one of those new cero forgings so it doesn’t have the detent tunnel but neither does the game model. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4996_jpeg-3310515.JPG I’ve done electro etch engraving before so that’s what I’ll be going with here. Just need to decide on a design. I’ve got 4 contestants. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/falloutlwr1_jpeg-3310516.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/falloutlwr2_jpeg-3310517.JPG A. Is based on the in game design. I wanted something a bit more unique though (and not made in Canada… no offense Canadians ) I had the idea to do a war time manufacturer as an homage to the A1s made by GM and H&R during Vietnam. The Fallout equivalent for GM is Chryslus Motors. B. Uses the car company logo from the game. I think it looks too modern personally. C. Is a straight send off of the GM Hydra-matric lower. D. Is a variant of A. Personally… I’m leaning toward C for simplicity since simple is cheap and in Fallout, corporations are cheap If you don't do A you're wrong. |
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Posted: 9/1/2024 7:51:20 PM EST
[#37]
It's not the right wood, or even Fallout inspired, but my daughter's deer hunting AR has wood.
Color reminds me of a ban era Romanian AK.  Attached File |
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Posted: 9/1/2024 8:03:29 PM EST
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: @brass Unfortunately my “shop/storage shed” is very ill equipped for a decent sized “real” lathe. I’m limited to smaller bench top sized equipment for now. I did have an idea similar to what you suggest with using the mill as a lathe though. I was going to do straight boiled linseed oil (I’m already a few coats in) and a final coat of wax. Will that not be sufficient protection for a stock? So far the lower has been fully lowered and reprofiled. It’s one of those new cero forgings so it doesn’t have the detent tunnel but neither does the game model. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4996_jpeg-3310515.JPG I’ve done electro etch engraving before so that’s what I’ll be going with here. Just need to decide on a design. I’ve got 4 contestants. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/falloutlwr1_jpeg-3310516.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/falloutlwr2_jpeg-3310517.JPG A. Is based on the in game design. I wanted something a bit more unique though (and not made in Canada… no offense Canadians ) I had the idea to do a war time manufacturer as an homage to the A1s made by GM and H&R during Vietnam. The Fallout equivalent for GM is Chryslus Motors. B. Uses the car company logo from the game. I think it looks too modern personally. C. Is a straight send off of the GM Hydra-matric lower. D. Is a variant of A. Personally… I’m leaning toward C for simplicity since simple is cheap and in Fallout, corporations are cheap Gives me an idea. It'll piss off a raging lib too. "North Central Positronics, Mid-World". Inspired by The Dark Tower. |
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Posted: 9/1/2024 8:07:57 PM EST
[#39]
 Tagged |
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Posted: 9/1/2024 8:10:27 PM EST
[#40]
That is awesome!
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Posted: 9/1/2024 8:16:51 PM EST
[#41]
nice work man
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Posted: 9/5/2024 12:58:10 PM EST
[#42]
Originally Posted By MVolkJ: Of these, I agree with C. However, unlike the Survivalist's rifle, most of the service rifles the NCR uses are post-war guns made for them by the Gun Runners. Some of them use pre-war receivers, but I'm not sure those guns would be marked "service rifle" - they'd likely have the markings from whatever rifle they were before - assault carbine, etc. I feel like it’s a bit contentious. Josh Sawyer said they were supposed to be pre-war. Of course some game dialogue implies they were made by the Gun Runners. I thought I’d split the difference and do Anniston Depot style markings on the mag well implying a rebuild by the Gun Runners for NCR. Originally Posted By TheTallest: If you don't do A you're wrong. If I was doing the Survivalist’s Rifle I’d agree. Full speed jank Part 1: While I’m deciding on the markings, I started on the “flash hider”. It’s more of a glorified thread protector really. Maybe a linear break? Whatever, it’s the thing from the game. Got some 1in 4140 round stock and cut off a chunk. I really need a metal cutting saw. Hacksaws suck. I clamped it into a 1in collect and faced the ends off using a lathe tool held in the vise.  Attached FileI turned one end down to the right diameter, .864. That’s close enough to 7/8 that I could flip it around and use a 7/8 collet to turn down the other end.  Attached FileNext, I clamped it into the vise with a v-block and located the center. Center drilled and then drilled all the way through with a 1/4 bit. This was not a good choice but, more on that later.  Attached FileStepped up the bits to .339 for the bore hole and then up to .468 for the 1/2-28 threaded portion.  Attached FileI used the chuck to hold the tap straight and used a punch as a handle to turn it. Worked great.  Attached FileThe other side got opened up to 1/2 for the exit hole and then I set out to make a custom lathe tool for the grooves… |
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Posted: 9/5/2024 1:03:24 PM EST
[#43]
awesome thread, not sure how i missed it. Subbing for sure.
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Posted: 9/5/2024 1:24:55 PM EST
[#44]
Damn, that's some solid handwork there!
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Posted: 9/5/2024 1:52:46 PM EST
[#45]
Very cool. I wish I had the tools/know how/time to learn this.
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WV, USA
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Posted: 9/5/2024 2:37:02 PM EST
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: Got the grip finish sanded. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4950_jpeg-3308062.JPG Had a few chips around the bottom edge but, I think that’ll give it character. It’s supposed to have survived a nuclear war after all. Here it all is put together. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4948_jpeg-3308065.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4947_jpeg-3308063.JPG I may or may not have started to apply some boiled linseed oil already. After the first few coats I’ll mix in a little Japan drier for the last few to make sure it sets up solid. The warm weather over the next few days should help it cure as well. Still need to finish the lower and maybe do a few other things. I’d love to do a custom flash hider but I really need a lathe for that.  What in the feral ghoul is this |
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Posted: 9/5/2024 4:25:54 PM EST
[#47]
Full speed jank Part 2:
I took machining in high school so I knew about custom turning tools but everything online these days is focused on CNC and carbide inserts and blah blah. I needed a more old school approach. Fortunately I still have some ancient reference material my teacher gave me.  Attached FileI was never very good at grinding tools so I tested my newly made groove cutter on piece of brass first. Cut like butter. Seems legit.  Attached FileThen I tried steel. A little chatter but still seems fine.  Attached FileSo now the flash hider gets its groove.  Attached FileAt this point I was running short on time so I didn’t photo the finishing steps but it was mostly just more turning and some filing and sanding while it was spinning.  Attached FileHere it is on the barrel. It think it looks cool but… remember how I said drilling all the way was the wrong choice? I ended up being a little off. The drill wandered somewhere between the front and back. It’s about .018 off. It might be fine, it won’t contact the bullet but maybe it might deflect it enough to impact accuracy? 🤷♂️ I’ll probably try it again this weekend. Also someone wanted my wood… They can’t have it so I’m making more. |
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AK, USA
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Posted: 9/5/2024 4:31:03 PM EST
[#48]
Great work.
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Posted: 9/5/2024 4:52:00 PM EST
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: Full speed jank Part 2: I took machining in high school so I knew about custom turning tools but everything online these days is focused on CNC and carbide inserts and blah blah. I needed a more old school approach. Fortunately I still have some ancient reference material my teacher gave me. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5028_jpeg-3314184.JPG I was never very good at grinding tools so I tested my newly made groove cutter on piece of brass first. Cut like butter. Seems legit. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5009_jpeg-3314185.JPG Then I tried steel. A little chatter but still seems fine. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5010_jpeg-3314187.JPG So now the flash hider gets its groove. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5017_jpeg-3314188.JPG At this point I was running short on time so I didn’t photo the finishing steps but it was mostly just more turning and some filing and sanding while it was spinning. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5019_jpeg-3314189.JPG Here it is on the barrel. It think it looks cool but… remember how I said drilling all the way was the wrong choice? I ended up being a little off. The drill wandered somewhere between the front and back. It’s about .018 off. It might be fine, it won’t contact the bullet but maybe it might deflect it enough to impact accuracy? 🤷♂️ I’ll probably try it again this weekend. Also someone wanted my wood… They can’t have it so I’m making more. Clamp the flash hider in your V blocks, locate center using the outer diameter. Use a 13mm endmill and plunge into the flash hider bore. That should give you a concentric hole. |
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Posted: 9/6/2024 3:14:46 PM EST
[Last Edit: brass]
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: Full speed jank Part 2: I took machining in high school so I knew about custom turning tools but everything online these days is focused on CNC and carbide inserts and blah blah. I needed a more old school approach. Fortunately I still have some ancient reference material my teacher gave me. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5028_jpeg-3314184.JPG I was never very good at grinding tools so I tested my newly made groove cutter on piece of brass first. Cut like butter. Seems legit. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5009_jpeg-3314185.JPG Then I tried steel. A little chatter but still seems fine. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5010_jpeg-3314187.JPG So now the flash hider gets its groove. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5017_jpeg-3314188.JPG At this point I was running short on time so I didn’t photo the finishing steps but it was mostly just more turning and some filing and sanding while it was spinning. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5019_jpeg-3314189.JPG Here it is on the barrel. It think it looks cool but… remember how I said drilling all the way was the wrong choice? I ended up being a little off. The drill wandered somewhere between the front and back. It’s about .018 off. It might be fine, it won’t contact the bullet but maybe it might deflect it enough to impact accuracy? 🤷♂️ I’ll probably try it again this weekend. Also someone wanted my wood… They can’t have it so I’m making more. Might try using the barrel threading die as a chuck to hold your flash hider and then bore out from the inside to be fully concentric with barrel by scraping off 25 mils or so from inside diameter via makeshift boring tool? The uneven space around the bullet will greatly affect the path it takes as it exits the bore and causing wild accuracy problems unless all shots leave barrel at the exact same speed with the gasses all being directed the same. Should be easy and basically the same scraper you used, but instead of going in from the outside, roll the Z on the table down and mount your cutter vertically as a boring tool and roll it up on the inside to bore out the internal diameter to be uniform. |
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