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Posted: 9/6/2024 3:20:11 PM EST
[#1]
That flash hider looks way cool.
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Posted: 9/6/2024 3:35:10 PM EST
[#2]
Very impressive and that rifle looks great. Bet you could make some money making those stock sets for sale.
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Posted: 9/11/2024 6:14:57 PM EST
[#3]
Originally Posted By brass: Might try using the barrel threading die as a chuck to hold your flash hider and then bore out from the inside to be fully concentric with barrel by scraping off 25 mils or so from inside diameter via makeshift boring tool? This was quite helpful, I ended up doing something like this actually. Originally Posted By DamascusKnifemaker: Clamp the flash hider in your V blocks, locate center using the outer diameter. Use a 13mm endmill and plunge into the flash hider bore. That should give you a concentric hole. That’s what I’ve been doing, I think my z axis travel was loose and was causing some of my issues. The Jank Continues Part 1 I decided to try and eliminate as many variables as I could on this attempt. I started with the 1in round stock and faced the ends but didn’t turn the diameter. Then, I made a better v block with a deeper v to hold the part more securely and used a center finder. This is how I bored the hole originally but this time I decided to use end mills instead of drill bit where I could. They don’t seem to wander as much. I still needed to use a .468 drill for the threads though. So I stepped up the drills very slowly until I hit the final size. Then I threaded it again and… it was off. Again.  Sus as they say. Anyway, I have to fix this part. I left the tap in the chuck and threaded the flash hider back onto it and snugged it up tight. I used the lathe tool to turn it down so that it was concentric with the threads. This was a little hairy, taps can snap so I didn’t want to put too much stress on it. I managed turn off just enough to get it back into a collet to finish turning. After that I ended up with a flash hider blank that’s threaded and concentric but… with an off center bore. So back into the v block and locate center again.  Attached FileThen bore it out with a 9mm end mill and open up the end with the 1/2in cutter again.  Attached FileCut the grooves again.  Attached FileShape it up with lathe tools followed by files.  Attached FileVoila.  Attached FileExcept it was still off… The 1/2in bore is out of round by .006 and the 9mm bore is out by .010… this won’t do. Something is definitely wrong here. Time to take a closer look at the mill… |
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Posted: 9/11/2024 8:15:34 PM EST
[Last Edit: Hamdammer]
[#4]
Speaking from experience, the problem is you are using a mill instead of a lathe. I've done a lot of sketchy stuff like that with a drill press and mill. Oh, how much easier it was when I got my old lathe.
Try making a threaded mandrel to mount the part. Mount a piece in the collet and turn it down and thread it like the end of the barrel. Once you've drilled through and threaded the part, screw it onto the mandrel and mount the mandrel in the collet to finish bore and turn down the OD. Everything should then be concentric, or at least close enough for government work. ETA: Don't drill the initial hole all the way through the part in one direction. Go half way from each end. |
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Posted: 9/12/2024 12:36:54 PM EST
[#5]
Originally Posted By Hamdammer:Speaking from experience, the problem is you are using a mill instead of a lathe. I've done a lot of sketchy stuff like that with a drill press and mill. Oh, how much easier it was when I got my old lathe. Try making a threaded mandrel to mount the part. Mount a piece in the collet and turn it down and thread it like the end of the barrel. Once you've drilled through and threaded the part, screw it onto the mandrel and mount the mandrel in the collet to finish bore and turn down the OD. Everything should then be concentric, or at least close enough for government work. ETA: Don't drill the initial hole all the way through the part in one direction. Go half way from each end. That’s what I did, I just used the 1/2-28 tap instead of a custom mandrel. I honestly really like getting advice that I’ve thought of already, it makes me feel like I’m not a complete idiot  The Jank Continues Part 2: After careful inspection of the mill head, I figured out that it wobbles a bit when I raise or lower it. I spent some time monkeying around with the z axis gibs and got it tightened up. Usually it’s locked in place to make cuts and I’ve only been drilling soft things like wood and aluminum. The harder steel, the size of the cutters and my… unorthodox techniques made it stand out. Should have checked that earlier.  So following this, I took some of the advice from @brass. I didn’t have any hss stock small enough to make a boring tool but I did have a small v cutter with a broken tip. The edges were still sharp as hell though. Perfect. So into the vise it goes to play single point cutting tool. Also broke out this mirror and a flashlight… this is going to be tricky stuff.  Attached FilePerforming surgery.  Attached FileLet’s check the results.  Attached FileI managed to get the runout down to .0005 on the the through hole and .0000 on the 1/2 bore and most importantly, it’s all concentric to the threads and outer diameter. That’s definitely close enough for government work. The one I made a few days ago? That one is trash. This one is perfect. Many lessons were learned. Still looking cool out there on the front.  Attached File |
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Posted: 9/12/2024 12:43:43 PM EST
[#6]
Doing great, man.
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Posted: 9/12/2024 12:51:24 PM EST
[#7]
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Posted: 9/12/2024 1:10:20 PM EST
[#8]
Beautiful, I love the walnut.
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Posted: 9/12/2024 1:28:32 PM EST
[Last Edit: brass]
[#9]
Cool beans! I'd have thought he 6 mil was not so bad but half a mil is better yt. I guess the test target will tell how well you did overall. Only accuracy issue I see is the non free-float barrel but should be consistent and able to be accounted for if you don't stress the wood.
It looks rest! Need a game screencap and a photo of this one side by side to prove cosmetic faithfulness. Have you ever done the bearings on the mill to get it more stable? |
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Posted: 9/16/2024 4:07:19 PM EST
[#10]
Originally Posted By brass: It looks rest! Need a game screencap and a photo of this one side by side to prove cosmetic faithfulness. Have you ever done the bearings on the mill to get it more stable? I have not. I’ve seen people install tapered roller bearings in bench top lathes, I hadn’t even thought about that for the mill. Power feed on the x is my next project though, my arms are getting tired I’ve been oiling this wood almost everyday for… awhile. It’s been drying for a few days and I’m going to hit with some DIY paste wax after I let it dry a little longer but I had to throw it together to get a look.  Attached FileThe first few coats were just boiled linseed oil rubbed on. Next few coats I mixed in Japan drier and used 400, 600, 800, and 1000 grit paper to do a kind of slurry of wood dust and oil to fill the pores. Last few coats were buffed out with a fine scotchbrite pad and then I just did 1 final coat of oil.  Attached FileI think it looks pretty good so far.  Attached FileMaybe not quite like the game model but not bad  Attached File Attached FileI still might try the goofy pistol grip later. |
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Posted: 9/16/2024 4:13:13 PM EST
[#11]
Wow
That looks really good. |
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Posted: 9/16/2024 4:16:35 PM EST
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: I have not. I've seen people install tapered roller bearings in bench top lathes, I hadn't even thought about that for the mill. Power feed on the x is my next project though, my arms are getting tired I've been oiling this wood almost everyday for awhile. It's been drying for a few days and I'm going to hit with some DIY paste wax after I let it dry a little longer but I had to throw it together to get a look. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4975_jpeg-3324164.JPG The first few coats were just boiled linseed oil rubbed on. Next few coats I mixed in Japan drier and used 400, 600, 800, and 1000 grit paper to do a kind of slurry of wood dust and oil to fill the pores. Last few coats were buffed out with a fine scotchbrite pad and then I just did 1 final coat of oil. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4970_jpeg-3324166.JPG I think it looks pretty good so far. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4973_jpeg-3324165.JPG Maybe not quite like the game model but not bad https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5078_jpeg-3324167.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5074_jpeg-3324168.JPG I still might try the goofy pistol grip later. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 9/16/2024 4:19:48 PM EST
[#13]
game model doesn't have a charging handle.
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Posted: 9/16/2024 4:34:44 PM EST
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blammer: game model doesn't have a charging handle. But it does have a trigger, so it's at least single shot. |
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Posted: 9/16/2024 5:59:34 PM EST
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blammer: game model doesn't have a charging handle. Left side charging handle. |
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Posted: 9/16/2024 7:32:02 PM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryI really, really, like that. 
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Posted: 9/16/2024 7:37:55 PM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By colklink: This. If I had tried that it would look like a 5 year old did it If I tried it'd look a 3 year old did it
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USA
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Posted: 9/16/2024 7:48:39 PM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blammer: game model doesn't have a charging handle. Obsidian put a charging handle on the right side, probably because they were too lazy to create a proper animation. As no-one makes a C7 style receiver with side-charging, a C7 is the best one can do. |
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Posted: 9/16/2024 8:14:34 PM EST
[#19]
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Posted: 9/16/2024 11:35:12 PM EST
[#20]
Awesome job! That looks great.
I bought one of those Christmas Story lowers with the intention of doing a wood stock. Of course mine will need a compass and that thing that tells time. |
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Posted: 9/17/2024 12:15:11 AM EST
[#21]
impressive work!
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Posted: 9/17/2024 12:43:50 AM EST
[#22]
Hell yeah!
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Posted: 9/17/2024 1:41:42 AM EST
[Last Edit: brass]
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: I have not. I’ve seen people install tapered roller bearings in bench top lathes, I hadn’t even thought about that for the mill. Power feed on the x is my next project though, my arms are getting tired I’ve been oiling this wood almost everyday for… awhile. It’s been drying for a few days and I’m going to hit with some DIY paste wax after I let it dry a little longer but I had to throw it together to get a look. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4975_jpeg-3324164.JPG The first few coats were just boiled linseed oil rubbed on. Next few coats I mixed in Japan drier and used 400, 600, 800, and 1000 grit paper to do a kind of slurry of wood dust and oil to fill the pores. Last few coats were buffed out with a fine scotchbrite pad and then I just did 1 final coat of oil. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4970_jpeg-3324166.JPG I think it looks pretty good so far. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4973_jpeg-3324165.JPG Maybe not quite like the game model but not bad https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5078_jpeg-3324167.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5074_jpeg-3324168.JPG I still might try the goofy pistol grip later. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: Originally Posted By brass: It looks rest! Need a game screencap and a photo of this one side by side to prove cosmetic faithfulness. Have you ever done the bearings on the mill to get it more stable? I have not. I’ve seen people install tapered roller bearings in bench top lathes, I hadn’t even thought about that for the mill. Power feed on the x is my next project though, my arms are getting tired I’ve been oiling this wood almost everyday for… awhile. It’s been drying for a few days and I’m going to hit with some DIY paste wax after I let it dry a little longer but I had to throw it together to get a look. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4975_jpeg-3324164.JPG The first few coats were just boiled linseed oil rubbed on. Next few coats I mixed in Japan drier and used 400, 600, 800, and 1000 grit paper to do a kind of slurry of wood dust and oil to fill the pores. Last few coats were buffed out with a fine scotchbrite pad and then I just did 1 final coat of oil. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4970_jpeg-3324166.JPG I think it looks pretty good so far. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4973_jpeg-3324165.JPG Maybe not quite like the game model but not bad https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5078_jpeg-3324167.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5074_jpeg-3324168.JPG I still might try the goofy pistol grip later. You can get a finish match by ordering colors from Laur: Colt Blue-Brown, Silver, and Blue Metal. Layer with airbrush mixing the colors together and airbrushing in the streaks and you can get it close. Otherwise you can put down a layer of blued metal, silver mixed 70/30 with blue, then very thin coat of mostly silver, then full layers of blue then black and after it is cured for a while, use steel wool through in various spots until you get down to the layer or silver or base blued metal and then when you have the right layers sanded down to visible, hit it with clear coat and you'll have a solid match. If you have an airbrush it's around $100 in color and clear. Could also use Cerakote with similar layering and sanding down. |
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Posted: 9/17/2024 1:52:20 AM EST
[#24]
Very cool.
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Posted: 9/17/2024 2:52:50 AM EST
[#25]
Very nice, OP.
Have you considered making a thumbhole stock or even a wooden lower with integrated thumbhole stock? |
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Posted: 9/19/2024 11:29:48 AM EST
[#26]
Originally Posted By backbencher: Very nice, OP. Have you considered making a thumbhole stock or even a wooden lower with integrated thumbhole stock? I hadn’t considered it until now There’s a prototype m16 at the Rock Island museum with a thumbhole wood stock and wood hanguards that I’d always liked the look of. 🤔 A walnut 1 piece lower with brass reinforcements or something would look really nice as well. I might do some G3 furniture after I finish this other set of A1 wood. Ive got the pieces cut and I’ve started squaring and shaping them already.  Attached FileThe parts for my x axis power feed are on the way so when that’s done it should speed things up a bit. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 9/19/2024 11:31:40 AM EST
[#27]
That's fucking skill right there! I can't cut 5 boards the same length.
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Posted: 9/19/2024 11:32:47 AM EST
[Last Edit: Couch-Commando]
[#28]
Nice! I just did fake walnut on an A1 stock set. Hard to see in this light, but it is a very dark brown, similar to my Garands.
 Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 9/19/2024 1:42:59 PM EST
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: I hadn’t considered it until now There’s a prototype m16 at the Rock Island museum with a thumbhole wood stock and wood hanguards that I’d always liked the look of. 🤔 A walnut 1 piece lower with brass reinforcements or something would look really nice as well. I might do some G3 furniture after I finish this other set of A1 wood. Ive got the pieces cut and I’ve started squaring and shaping them already. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5005_jpeg-3326652.JPG The parts for my x axis power feed are on the way so when that’s done it should speed things up a bit. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: Originally Posted By backbencher: Very nice, OP. Have you considered making a thumbhole stock or even a wooden lower with integrated thumbhole stock? I hadn’t considered it until now There’s a prototype m16 at the Rock Island museum with a thumbhole wood stock and wood hanguards that I’d always liked the look of. 🤔 A walnut 1 piece lower with brass reinforcements or something would look really nice as well. I might do some G3 furniture after I finish this other set of A1 wood. Ive got the pieces cut and I’ve started squaring and shaping them already. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5005_jpeg-3326652.JPG The parts for my x axis power feed are on the way so when that’s done it should speed things up a bit. If you need a pattern for a thumbhole, I could lend you my European wood stock as long as I get it back. You have a pantograph? Now that we have a crossbolt safety for the AR, the rear of the receiver can be much thicker than mil-spec. By lengthening the mag catch bolt or button, and by gluing short wood dowels on the tips of the Elftman safety, you can make your side plates as thick as you like. |
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Posted: 9/25/2024 10:35:35 AM EST
[#30]
A little update, working on an x axis power feed for my mill.
Drilled and tapped the left hand side plate.  Attached FileMade up a motor mount plate from aluminum stock. I’ll probably remake this in the future, it’s actually pretty crude. Well… the whole thing is really.  Attached FileI’ve got a wiper motor to power it all and a 9/16 socket with 1/2 drive that I turned down and drilled for a cross pin.  Attached FileIt slides in a slot in the lead screw to engage or disengage the feed… in theory.  Attached FileThis is all temporary for now. I need shorter mounting bolt and other assorted junk. Simple sliding clutch needs to be figured out. All that stuff. Just trying to get the mechanics done so I can wire it up and test it out. I also picked up another walnut slab for future projects. I’ll have to remember to take a pic of it. |
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Posted: 10/1/2024 1:44:27 PM EST
[#31]
Originally Posted By backbencher: If you need a pattern for a thumbhole, I could lend you my European wood stock as long as I get it back. You have a pantograph? I’m not sure when I’d get around that idea or if I’d even need reference if/when I do but I appreciate the offer. I do not have a pantograph. Ive thought about trying to build one. It would make some things easier for sure. I got some shorter screws for my power feed assembly and got it all tightened up. It’s pretty solid now.  Attached FileI put a roll pin through the… uh… drive nut… whatever you want to call it, to keep it from backing off.  Attached FileGot it all wired up for a test and it seems to run great.  Attached FileWorking on putting together a control box right now. Also need a clutch thingy and limit switches but I might skip those for now and get back to the wood work soon. I just really didn’t want to hand crank the table to route out 12 inches of walnut for another set of handguards
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Posted: 10/1/2024 1:58:11 PM EST
[Last Edit: Kuraki]
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: This was quite helpful, I ended up doing something like this actually. That’s what I’ve been doing, I think my z axis travel was loose and was causing some of my issues. The Jank Continues Part 1 I decided to try and eliminate as many variables as I could on this attempt. I started with the 1in round stock and faced the ends but didn’t turn the diameter. Then, I made a better v block with a deeper v to hold the part more securely and used a center finder. This is how I bored the hole originally but this time I decided to use end mills instead of drill bit where I could. They don’t seem to wander as much. I still needed to use a .468 drill for the threads though. So I stepped up the drills very slowly until I hit the final size. Then I threaded it again and… it was off. Again. Sus as they say. Anyway, I have to fix this part. I left the tap in the chuck and threaded the flash hider back onto it and snugged it up tight. I used the lathe tool to turn it down so that it was concentric with the threads. This was a little hairy, taps can snap so I didn’t want to put too much stress on it. I managed turn off just enough to get it back into a collet to finish turning. After that I ended up with a flash hider blank that’s threaded and concentric but… with an off center bore. So back into the v block and locate center again. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5038_jpeg-3319649.JPG Then bore it out with a 9mm end mill and open up the end with the 1/2in cutter again. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5039_jpeg-3319652.JPG Cut the grooves again. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5041_jpeg-3319654.JPG Shape it up with lathe tools followed by files. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5042_jpeg-3319656.JPG Voila. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5043_jpeg-3319657.JPG Except it was still off… The 1/2in bore is out of round by .006 and the 9mm bore is out by .010… this won’t do. Something is definitely wrong here. Time to take a closer look at the mill… You'll never get a round hole plunge cutting with an endmill. Excellent work so far! |
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Posted: 10/1/2024 2:54:04 PM EST
[#33]
Late to the Party , but
 That turned out great! Wood stock AR IS ON MY “ one day” list…. |
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Posted: 10/1/2024 3:16:26 PM EST
[#34]
OST
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Posted: 10/1/2024 3:49:53 PM EST
[#35]
That is unbelieveably cool
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TX, USA
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Posted: 10/1/2024 3:56:09 PM EST
[#36]
Damn dude!
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Posted: 10/8/2024 12:17:51 PM EST
[#37]
Got the control box wired and ready. Took a little extra time because I accidentally shorted out the first speed controller
 Attached FileMounted it on the bench in front of the machine in an easily accessible location.  Attached FileClose up. It’s got a knob and display for the speed percentage, a forward/reverse switch, a fast/slow switch, and a jog button. The display has a piece of plexi on the inside to protect it but I think I’ll need one on the outside too.  Attached FileI found this old connector in a parts box and thought it was perfect for the job. This way I can disconnect the motor from the controls externally.  Attached FileI’ll make a chip guard and a clutch later. Need to get back to that wood. |
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Posted: 10/8/2024 6:08:21 PM EST
[#38]
Looks great, instead of using an edge finder to get center.
Pickup a indical holder and cheap .0005 indicator and clamp it to your spindle, in neutral you can spin it around by hand outside of round stock or a hole and move X and Y axis to get X 0.0 Y 0.0.  Attached FileYou can also use it to indicate X and Y axis |
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Posted: 10/14/2024 1:12:48 PM EST
[#39]
Originally Posted By bansil: Looks great, instead of using an edge finder to get center Pickup a indical holder and cheap .0005 indicator and clamp it to your spindle, in neutral you can spin it around by hand outside of round stock or a hole and move X and Y axis to get X 0.0 Y 0.0. I forgot all about those! We had those in shop class and used them just for that  Finished up the milling work for pistol grip #2. It will go on to final shaping when I get some of the other parts roughed out.  Attached FileThis power feed is amazing. I don’t know why I didn’t make one sooner. I’m literally typing this while the machine returns to the start of a cut.  Attached FileI also don’t know why I didn’t buy a 1in ball router bit when I made the 1st set of handguards. This barrel channel is so much nicer.  Attached FileThese are also being sized for a .50 Beowulf barrel. 
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Posted: 10/22/2024 12:50:48 PM EST
[#40]
Slow goings, not as much free time this time of the year.
I think this kinda is funny though.  Attached FileI’m tempted to make a whole set out of block shapes
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Posted: 10/22/2024 1:03:36 PM EST
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: Slow goings, not as much free time this time of the year. I think this kinda is funny though. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5127_jpeg-3355868.JPG I’m tempted to make a whole set out of block shapes Could do that and just drill holes where your fingers would go to hold onto it. Thumbhole stock taken to extreme limit. |
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Posted: 10/22/2024 1:07:49 PM EST
[Last Edit: beitodesstrafe]
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By brass: Could do that and just drill holes where your fingers would go to hold onto it. Thumbhole stock taken to extreme limit. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By brass: Originally Posted By 57Octane: Slow goings, not as much free time this time of the year. I think this kinda is funny though. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5127_jpeg-3355868.JPG I’m tempted to make a whole set out of block shapes Could do that and just drill holes where your fingers would go to hold onto it. Thumbhole stock taken to extreme limit. You'll end up with one of those super-expensive, custom, competition rifle stocks.
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Posted: 10/22/2024 2:51:30 PM EST
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: Slow goings, not as much free time this time of the year. I think this kinda is funny though. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5127_jpeg-3355868.JPG I’m tempted to make a whole set out of block shapes Puts a whole new spin on "in minecraft"
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Posted: 10/29/2024 1:25:52 PM EST
[#44]
Now we have block stock #2. It’s very tactical.
 Attached FileIt’s also very important to make sure your redneck boring jig is lined up before drilling a 10in hole. This one can be fixed, the other one… I think I may have finally fixed my vinyl cutter as well so I might finally be able to finish the lower soon. |
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Posted: 10/29/2024 1:29:08 PM EST
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: Now we have block stock #2. It’s very tactical. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5135_jpeg-3362042.JPG It’s also very important to make sure your redneck boring jig is lined up before drilling a 10in hole. This one can be fixed, the other one… I think I may have finally fixed my vinyl cutter as well so I might finally be able to finish the lower soon. Need to pin that upper and lower together to get a picture of the "Minecraft AR" as mentioned above.  |
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Posted: 11/2/2024 1:33:14 PM EST
[Last Edit: 57Octane]
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By brass: Need to pin that upper and lower together to get a picture of the "Minecraft AR" as mentioned above. Ask and ye shall receive  Attached File |
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Posted: 11/2/2024 3:28:32 PM EST
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: Ask and ye shall receive https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5148_jpeg-3365961.JPG Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 57Octane: Originally Posted By brass: Need to pin that upper and lower together to get a picture of the "Minecraft AR" as mentioned above. Ask and ye shall receive https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5148_jpeg-3365961.JPG Now go all artsy nuts with a spokeshave or drawknife. Maybe do a practice run in pine first.  |
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