User Panel
That flash hider looks way cool.
|
|
|
Very impressive and that rifle looks great. Bet you could make some money making those stock sets for sale.
|
|
Democratic party=new communist party
|
Originally Posted By brass: Might try using the barrel threading die as a chuck to hold your flash hider and then bore out from the inside to be fully concentric with barrel by scraping off 25 mils or so from inside diameter via makeshift boring tool? View Quote This was quite helpful, I ended up doing something like this actually. Originally Posted By DamascusKnifemaker: Clamp the flash hider in your V blocks, locate center using the outer diameter. Use a 13mm endmill and plunge into the flash hider bore. That should give you a concentric hole. View Quote That’s what I’ve been doing, I think my z axis travel was loose and was causing some of my issues. The Jank Continues Part 1 I decided to try and eliminate as many variables as I could on this attempt. I started with the 1in round stock and faced the ends but didn’t turn the diameter. Then, I made a better v block with a deeper v to hold the part more securely and used a center finder. This is how I bored the hole originally but this time I decided to use end mills instead of drill bit where I could. They don’t seem to wander as much. I still needed to use a .468 drill for the threads though. So I stepped up the drills very slowly until I hit the final size. Then I threaded it again and… it was off. Again. Sus as they say. Anyway, I have to fix this part. I left the tap in the chuck and threaded the flash hider back onto it and snugged it up tight. I used the lathe tool to turn it down so that it was concentric with the threads. This was a little hairy, taps can snap so I didn’t want to put too much stress on it. I managed turn off just enough to get it back into a collet to finish turning. After that I ended up with a flash hider blank that’s threaded and concentric but… with an off center bore. So back into the v block and locate center again. Attached File Then bore it out with a 9mm end mill and open up the end with the 1/2in cutter again. Attached File Cut the grooves again. Attached File Shape it up with lathe tools followed by files. Attached File Voila. Attached File Except it was still off… The 1/2in bore is out of round by .006 and the 9mm bore is out by .010… this won’t do. Something is definitely wrong here. Time to take a closer look at the mill… |
|
|
Speaking from experience, the problem is you are using a mill instead of a lathe. I've done a lot of sketchy stuff like that with a drill press and mill. Oh, how much easier it was when I got my old lathe.
Try making a threaded mandrel to mount the part. Mount a piece in the collet and turn it down and thread it like the end of the barrel. Once you've drilled through and threaded the part, screw it onto the mandrel and mount the mandrel in the collet to finish bore and turn down the OD. Everything should then be concentric, or at least close enough for government work. ETA: Don't drill the initial hole all the way through the part in one direction. Go half way from each end. |
|
|
Originally Posted By Hamdammer:Speaking from experience, the problem is you are using a mill instead of a lathe. I've done a lot of sketchy stuff like that with a drill press and mill. Oh, how much easier it was when I got my old lathe. Try making a threaded mandrel to mount the part. Mount a piece in the collet and turn it down and thread it like the end of the barrel. Once you've drilled through and threaded the part, screw it onto the mandrel and mount the mandrel in the collet to finish bore and turn down the OD. Everything should then be concentric, or at least close enough for government work. ETA: Don't drill the initial hole all the way through the part in one direction. Go half way from each end. View Quote That’s what I did, I just used the 1/2-28 tap instead of a custom mandrel. I honestly really like getting advice that I’ve thought of already, it makes me feel like I’m not a complete idiot The Jank Continues Part 2: After careful inspection of the mill head, I figured out that it wobbles a bit when I raise or lower it. I spent some time monkeying around with the z axis gibs and got it tightened up. Usually it’s locked in place to make cuts and I’ve only been drilling soft things like wood and aluminum. The harder steel, the size of the cutters and my… unorthodox techniques made it stand out. Should have checked that earlier. So following this, I took some of the advice from @brass. I didn’t have any hss stock small enough to make a boring tool but I did have a small v cutter with a broken tip. The edges were still sharp as hell though. Perfect. So into the vise it goes to play single point cutting tool. Also broke out this mirror and a flashlight… this is going to be tricky stuff. Attached File Performing surgery. Attached File Let’s check the results. Attached File I managed to get the runout down to .0005 on the the through hole and .0000 on the 1/2 bore and most importantly, it’s all concentric to the threads and outer diameter. That’s definitely close enough for government work. The one I made a few days ago? That one is trash. This one is perfect. Many lessons were learned. Still looking cool out there on the front. Attached File |
|
|
Doing great, man.
|
|
Not fly enough to be halal....
|
|
|
TET THE LIRA YS!!
|
Beautiful, I love the walnut.
|
|
I see what you did.
|
Cool beans! I'd have thought he 6 mil was not so bad but half a mil is better yt. I guess the test target will tell how well you did overall. Only accuracy issue I see is the non free-float barrel but should be consistent and able to be accounted for if you don't stress the wood.
It looks rest! Need a game screencap and a photo of this one side by side to prove cosmetic faithfulness. Have you ever done the bearings on the mill to get it more stable? |
|
The person who complains most, and is the most critical of others has the most to hide.
All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident. |
Originally Posted By brass: It looks rest! Need a game screencap and a photo of this one side by side to prove cosmetic faithfulness. Have you ever done the bearings on the mill to get it more stable? View Quote I have not. I’ve seen people install tapered roller bearings in bench top lathes, I hadn’t even thought about that for the mill. Power feed on the x is my next project though, my arms are getting tired I’ve been oiling this wood almost everyday for… awhile. It’s been drying for a few days and I’m going to hit with some DIY paste wax after I let it dry a little longer but I had to throw it together to get a look. Attached File The first few coats were just boiled linseed oil rubbed on. Next few coats I mixed in Japan drier and used 400, 600, 800, and 1000 grit paper to do a kind of slurry of wood dust and oil to fill the pores. Last few coats were buffed out with a fine scotchbrite pad and then I just did 1 final coat of oil. Attached File I think it looks pretty good so far. Attached File Maybe not quite like the game model but not bad Attached File Attached File I still might try the goofy pistol grip later. |
|
|
Wow
That looks really good. |
|
|
Originally Posted By 57Octane: I have not. I've seen people install tapered roller bearings in bench top lathes, I hadn't even thought about that for the mill. Power feed on the x is my next project though, my arms are getting tired I've been oiling this wood almost everyday for awhile. It's been drying for a few days and I'm going to hit with some DIY paste wax after I let it dry a little longer but I had to throw it together to get a look. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4975_jpeg-3324164.JPG The first few coats were just boiled linseed oil rubbed on. Next few coats I mixed in Japan drier and used 400, 600, 800, and 1000 grit paper to do a kind of slurry of wood dust and oil to fill the pores. Last few coats were buffed out with a fine scotchbrite pad and then I just did 1 final coat of oil. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4970_jpeg-3324166.JPG I think it looks pretty good so far. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4973_jpeg-3324165.JPG Maybe not quite like the game model but not bad https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5078_jpeg-3324167.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5074_jpeg-3324168.JPG I still might try the goofy pistol grip later. View Quote |
|
<**Me:**> I just spent 95% of my paycheck on LaRue stuff, within 30 minutes of getting paid. < **mfingar:**> For what it's worth, Dillo Dust is great on Ramen.
|
game model doesn't have a charging handle.
|
|
|
The person who complains most, and is the most critical of others has the most to hide.
All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident. |
Not fly enough to be halal....
|
View Quote I really, really, like that. |
|
|
|
|
Don't be so open-minded that your brains fall out.
General education should not be mere job training, but training in how to be fully human. |
Awesome job! That looks great.
I bought one of those Christmas Story lowers with the intention of doing a wood stock. Of course mine will need a compass and that thing that tells time. |
|
|
impressive work!
|
|
|
Hell yeah!
|
|
|
Originally Posted By 57Octane: I have not. I’ve seen people install tapered roller bearings in bench top lathes, I hadn’t even thought about that for the mill. Power feed on the x is my next project though, my arms are getting tired I’ve been oiling this wood almost everyday for… awhile. It’s been drying for a few days and I’m going to hit with some DIY paste wax after I let it dry a little longer but I had to throw it together to get a look. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4975_jpeg-3324164.JPG The first few coats were just boiled linseed oil rubbed on. Next few coats I mixed in Japan drier and used 400, 600, 800, and 1000 grit paper to do a kind of slurry of wood dust and oil to fill the pores. Last few coats were buffed out with a fine scotchbrite pad and then I just did 1 final coat of oil. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4970_jpeg-3324166.JPG I think it looks pretty good so far. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4973_jpeg-3324165.JPG Maybe not quite like the game model but not bad https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5078_jpeg-3324167.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5074_jpeg-3324168.JPG I still might try the goofy pistol grip later. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 57Octane: Originally Posted By brass: It looks rest! Need a game screencap and a photo of this one side by side to prove cosmetic faithfulness. Have you ever done the bearings on the mill to get it more stable? I have not. I’ve seen people install tapered roller bearings in bench top lathes, I hadn’t even thought about that for the mill. Power feed on the x is my next project though, my arms are getting tired I’ve been oiling this wood almost everyday for… awhile. It’s been drying for a few days and I’m going to hit with some DIY paste wax after I let it dry a little longer but I had to throw it together to get a look. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4975_jpeg-3324164.JPG The first few coats were just boiled linseed oil rubbed on. Next few coats I mixed in Japan drier and used 400, 600, 800, and 1000 grit paper to do a kind of slurry of wood dust and oil to fill the pores. Last few coats were buffed out with a fine scotchbrite pad and then I just did 1 final coat of oil. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4970_jpeg-3324166.JPG I think it looks pretty good so far. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_4973_jpeg-3324165.JPG Maybe not quite like the game model but not bad https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5078_jpeg-3324167.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5074_jpeg-3324168.JPG I still might try the goofy pistol grip later. You can get a finish match by ordering colors from Laur: Colt Blue-Brown, Silver, and Blue Metal. Layer with airbrush mixing the colors together and airbrushing in the streaks and you can get it close. Otherwise you can put down a layer of blued metal, silver mixed 70/30 with blue, then very thin coat of mostly silver, then full layers of blue then black and after it is cured for a while, use steel wool through in various spots until you get down to the layer or silver or base blued metal and then when you have the right layers sanded down to visible, hit it with clear coat and you'll have a solid match. If you have an airbrush it's around $100 in color and clear. Could also use Cerakote with similar layering and sanding down. |
|
The person who complains most, and is the most critical of others has the most to hide.
All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident. |
Very cool.
|
|
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
|
Very nice, OP.
Have you considered making a thumbhole stock or even a wooden lower with integrated thumbhole stock? |
|
I sell firearms produced by the finest child labor in the world, be it Filipino, Muslim, Mormon, Arizonan, or Texan.
|
Originally Posted By backbencher: Very nice, OP. Have you considered making a thumbhole stock or even a wooden lower with integrated thumbhole stock? View Quote I hadn’t considered it until now There’s a prototype m16 at the Rock Island museum with a thumbhole wood stock and wood hanguards that I’d always liked the look of. 🤔 A walnut 1 piece lower with brass reinforcements or something would look really nice as well. I might do some G3 furniture after I finish this other set of A1 wood. Ive got the pieces cut and I’ve started squaring and shaping them already. Attached File The parts for my x axis power feed are on the way so when that’s done it should speed things up a bit. |
|
|
That's fucking skill right there! I can't cut 5 boards the same length.
|
|
|
Nice! I just did fake walnut on an A1 stock set. Hard to see in this light, but it is a very dark brown, similar to my Garands.
Attached File Attached File |
|
What's the difference between a nuclear weapon and a grenade launcher? I don't own a nuclear weapon.
|
Originally Posted By 57Octane: I hadn’t considered it until now There’s a prototype m16 at the Rock Island museum with a thumbhole wood stock and wood hanguards that I’d always liked the look of. 🤔 A walnut 1 piece lower with brass reinforcements or something would look really nice as well. I might do some G3 furniture after I finish this other set of A1 wood. Ive got the pieces cut and I’ve started squaring and shaping them already. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5005_jpeg-3326652.JPG The parts for my x axis power feed are on the way so when that’s done it should speed things up a bit. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 57Octane: Originally Posted By backbencher: Very nice, OP. Have you considered making a thumbhole stock or even a wooden lower with integrated thumbhole stock? I hadn’t considered it until now There’s a prototype m16 at the Rock Island museum with a thumbhole wood stock and wood hanguards that I’d always liked the look of. 🤔 A walnut 1 piece lower with brass reinforcements or something would look really nice as well. I might do some G3 furniture after I finish this other set of A1 wood. Ive got the pieces cut and I’ve started squaring and shaping them already. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245718/IMG_5005_jpeg-3326652.JPG The parts for my x axis power feed are on the way so when that’s done it should speed things up a bit. If you need a pattern for a thumbhole, I could lend you my European wood stock as long as I get it back. You have a pantograph? Now that we have a crossbolt safety for the AR, the rear of the receiver can be much thicker than mil-spec. By lengthening the mag catch bolt or button, and by gluing short wood dowels on the tips of the Elftman safety, you can make your side plates as thick as you like. |
|
I sell firearms produced by the finest child labor in the world, be it Filipino, Muslim, Mormon, Arizonan, or Texan.
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.