[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Fenix flashlight (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 2/24/2017 4:50:29 PM EDT
| I bought a used PD35 TAC on Ebay a few days ago with the seller stating that it may not work, that he did not have the battery to test it. I thought maybe I would get lucky and all it would need is a battery, but to my disappointment that is not the case. I tested the click switch and am reading resistance with switch closed and there is a rattling noise in the head when shaken lightly. For the last week I have emailed and called every contact I can find online, only to be shuffled off to someone else. Holy crap Fenix, I realize it may not be warranty and am willing to pay for repair! I did not realize they had sealed heads and aftermarket parts do not look readily available. I may just have to chuck this piece in the trash and write Fenix off. Any one have better luck with Fenix? |
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Ever since I dropped a Fenix onto the bathtub a while back and it quit working, I began carrying a Surefire P3X Fury. I've already dropped that thing on the pavement twice (hard enough to chip the metal), one time it was even turned on when it fell, and it still works like a champ.
I think you get what you pay for. |
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Quoted:
Ever since I dropped a Fenix onto the bathtub a while back and it quit working, I began carrying a Surefire P3X Fury. I've already dropped that thing on the pavement twice (hard enough to chip the metal), one time it was even turned on when it fell, and it still works like a champ. I think you get what you pay for. i thought it was your Penix Fleshlight you dropped in the tub during our live chat??? 
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I had a Fenix T1 and lost it in the field (Agriculture not military )
Great light with quality comparable to Surefire. I suspect yours has threads similar to 4 sevens Quark as it is a smaller host than the T1 was. I have 4-5 4sevens Quarks and sometimes one will fail to work but it has always been when I let maintenance go on it for awhile. Maintenance is important for these as they are not the bullet proof threads and engineering of the Surefire P and E series hosts. Completely disassemble and wipe all threads and contact surfaces with terry cloth to get that dark oxidation shit off the threads. Use dialectic grease to lube o rings and threads for smooth assembly. Do not lube the end of the host where the flat part contacts adjacent parts like switch or head. Reassemble and tighten everything down twice as you assemble to make sure no head assembly threads or anything else is loose. Attempt switch with known good cell. If it still doesn't work remove head and use conductive metal to jump from cell to host to make sure it isn't the switch. Prior owner may have disassembled head and put it back together at some time so you may want to try tightening up the head assembly. If it still fails you'll either have to contact customer service for replacement https://www.fenixlighting.com/support/warranty-repairs/ I'd use the page and email instead of phone a you have a running correspondence on record. If they won't help you because it was purchased used from unknown source or some such reason your options are: 1. Throw it away. 2. Send it to a custom modifier on candlepowerforums. 3. Send it to me to screw with when I get around to it for my own use.
In this situation (It's not my flashlight) I'd recommend 3.
In fact I'd recommend doing that option before even checking it further or trying to contact Fenix further.
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| Thank you for an intelligent response with a suggestion for possible resolution. I should have expected the numb nut answers I got from everyone else. Flashlights are not complicated, but I suppose for many they may seem arduous. I really like purchasing items, even used items, that carry lifetime warranties. Most issues can be repaired easily by someone who is confident enough to repair a flashlight as long as replacement parts are available, which does not seem to be the case with Fenix. |
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You bought something that was stated as "may not work", and now you're suprised that it doesn't work? 
 Thank you for the suggestion. I am a new member of the illuminati and thought $20 for a PD35 was a deal, even if it had to be fixed, I just did not check into parts availability before purchase. |
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Quoted:
I had a Fenix T1 and lost it in the field (Agriculture not military )
Great light with quality comparable to Surefire. I suspect yours has threads similar to 4 sevens Quark as it is a smaller host than the T1 was. I have 4-5 4sevens Quarks and sometimes one will fail to work but it has always been when I let maintenance go on it for awhile. Maintenance is important for these as they are not the bullet proof threads and engineering of the Surefire P and E series hosts. Completely disassemble and wipe all threads and contact surfaces with terry cloth to get that dark oxidation shit off the threads. Use dialectic grease to lube o rings and threads for smooth assembly. Do not lube the end of the host where the flat part contacts adjacent parts like switch or head. Reassemble and tighten everything down twice as you assemble to make sure no head assembly threads or anything else is loose. Attempt switch with known good cell. If it still doesn't work remove head and use conductive metal to jump from cell to host to make sure it isn't the switch. Prior owner may have disassembled head and put it back together at some time so you may want to try tightening up the head assembly. If it still fails you'll either have to contact customer service for replacement https://www.fenixlighting.com/support/warranty-repairs/ I'd use the page and email instead of phone a you have a running correspondence on record. If they won't help you because it was purchased used from unknown source or some such reason your options are: 1. Throw it away. 2. Send it to a custom modifier on candlepowerforums. 3. Send it to me to screw with when I get around to it for my own use.
In this situation (It's not my flashlight) I'd recommend 3.
In fact I'd recommend doing that option before even checking it further or trying to contact Fenix further. Thank you for the suggestion. I am a new member of the illuminati and thought $20 for a PD35 was a deal, even if it had to be fixed, I just did not check into parts availability before purchase. |
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The problem is LED flashlights have circuit boards and stuff to make them run it isn't just a simple mechanical device anymore. I've been really happy with my Fenix light but never tried contacting support.
You could try looking on Ebay for another broken one and hope between the two you have a working light...  Seriously though, make a post over at CandlePowerForums and they should be able to tell you if it's worth fixing.
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Quoted:
Thank you for the suggestion. I am a new member of the illuminati and thought $20 for a PD35 was a deal, even if it had to be fixed, I just did not check into parts availability before purchase. Quoted:
Quoted:
I had a Fenix T1 and lost it in the field (Agriculture not military )
Great light with quality comparable to Surefire. I suspect yours has threads similar to 4 sevens Quark as it is a smaller host than the T1 was. I have 4-5 4sevens Quarks and sometimes one will fail to work but it has always been when I let maintenance go on it for awhile. Maintenance is important for these as they are not the bullet proof threads and engineering of the Surefire P and E series hosts. Completely disassemble and wipe all threads and contact surfaces with terry cloth to get that dark oxidation shit off the threads. Use dialectic grease to lube o rings and threads for smooth assembly. Do not lube the end of the host where the flat part contacts adjacent parts like switch or head. Reassemble and tighten everything down twice as you assemble to make sure no head assembly threads or anything else is loose. Attempt switch with known good cell. If it still doesn't work remove head and use conductive metal to jump from cell to host to make sure it isn't the switch. Prior owner may have disassembled head and put it back together at some time so you may want to try tightening up the head assembly. If it still fails you'll either have to contact customer service for replacement https://www.fenixlighting.com/support/warranty-repairs/ I'd use the page and email instead of phone a you have a running correspondence on record. If they won't help you because it was purchased used from unknown source or some such reason your options are: 1. Throw it away. 2. Send it to a custom modifier on candlepowerforums. 3. Send it to me to screw with when I get around to it for my own use.
In this situation (It's not my flashlight) I'd recommend 3.
In fact I'd recommend doing that option before even checking it further or trying to contact Fenix further. Thank you for the suggestion. I am a new member of the illuminati and thought $20 for a PD35 was a deal, even if it had to be fixed, I just did not check into parts availability before purchase. You could possibly check LED for continuity that indicates it is burned out or not. LEDs often look dark once burned out by over current. If it is the LED it is the perfect time for a High Color Rendition Index LED replacement. 
I have one Quark I purchased used from a guy modded with a LED that is so HCRI it looks like an incan compared to even Quark neutral LEDs.  
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My one and only complaint about Fenix is they stopped making the E21. Built like tank, takes common AA batteries. I bought one for animal control work bout 5yrs ago. It's been dropped, ran over, dunked, bit and used to crack a dog's jaw and it's still going. Bought several more for around the house. My original i still carry as an EMT.
Anyone who has problems from a Fenix light....I'm sorry, put your training wheels back on and use candles. |
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My Fenix works better than my jetbeam. Quoted:
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Fenix went from Tier2 to Tier Garbage a few years ago. Check out Jetbeam. But buy one where the seller states that it functions, rather than one where the seller states that it is broken. My Fenix works better than my jetbeam. Ok then, well glad you like it. if it ever craps out, good luck with Fenix customer service. Ive had everything from them from the original P1 to the T1, L1p, l2p, etc. Then my TK30 just took a shit one day for no apparent reason, and customer service was totally useless and basically told me to eat shit, during the warranty period mind you. I've had a few Jetbeams since then, and starting with the JetIIIM, PA40, etc. and I have to say the build quality is higher and the service is better, but more importantly they just work more reliably. Folks should also take offense to Fenix's tactic lately of stating stupid high lumens and then you have to read the really fine print to discover that its only for 'burst mode' for like 60 seconds. Nobody else plays those games. |
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I went through 2 Fenixes about 10 years ago. They were the 2xAA models, called L2D I think. ONe lost its modes and went into some strange morse code type mode, flashing randomly. The second one that replaced the first one just quit, much like yours.
I see 10 years later nothing has changed. It's utter crap, that stuff is not worth $10 gas station special, let alone what they charge for it. The LED itself is innovative maybe ahead of Surefire these days but the implementation sucks. Knurling sucks, threads are worse than Surefire. The electronic engines inside are junk. They don't have a decent heat sink and are not potted to the best of my knowledge. Just get a Surefire 6P off your fav online auciton, throw out the incan module it comes with and buy a Malkoff drop in P60 module. Like M61. It will run forever. |
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Fenix went from Tier2 to Tier Garbage a few years ago. Check out Jetbeam. But buy one where the seller states that it functions, rather than one where the seller states that it is broken. |
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Ever since I dropped a Fenix onto the bathtub a while back and it quit working, I began carrying a Surefire P3X Fury. I've already dropped that thing on the pavement twice (hard enough to chip the metal), one time it was even turned on when it fell, and it still works like a champ. I think you get what you pay for. I have Fenix lights that have been dropped on concrete dozens and dozens of times and they still work. Sometimes you aren't lucky and it's your turn to break one. |
| I don't buy Fenix anymore after having problems with all of them. The most common problem I've had is the emitters getting scorch marks on them and it affecting the beam or color output. The EO1's suck because if the battery swells slightly you can't get it out. |
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Ok then, well glad you like it. if it ever craps out, good luck with Fenix customer service. Ive had everything from them from the original P1 to the T1, L1p, l2p, etc. Then my TK30 just took a shit one day for no apparent reason, and customer service was totally useless and basically told me to eat shit, during the warranty period mind you. I've had a few Jetbeams since then, and starting with the JetIIIM, PA40, etc. and I have to say the build quality is higher and the service is better, but more importantly they just work more reliably. Folks should also take offense to Fenix's tactic lately of stating stupid high lumens and then you have to read the really fine print to discover that its only for 'burst mode' for like 60 seconds. Nobody else plays those games. Lots of companies protect their lights with drop down after a short time. My pocket light is a 4sevens Mini MK2. You can't put out 1020 lumens for very long in a light much smaller than a roll of lifesavers. There is no shame in that. I'm guessing you don't play with lights much. |
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I went through 2 Fenixes about 10 years ago. They were the 2xAA models, called L2D I think. ONe lost its modes and went into some strange morse code type mode, flashing randomly. The second one that replaced the first one just quit, much like yours. I see 10 years later nothing has changed. It's utter crap, that stuff is not worth $10 gas station special, let alone what they charge for it. The LED itself is innovative maybe ahead of Surefire these days but the implementation sucks. Knurling sucks, threads are worse than Surefire. The electronic engines inside are junk. They don't have a decent heat sink and are not potted to the best of my knowledge. Just get a Surefire 6P off your fav online auciton, throw out the incan module it comes with and buy a Malkoff drop in P60 module. Like M61. It will run forever. You had one of the earliest models and know nothing of current lights. Fenix exceeds Surefire in almost every way. It's embarrassing to see Surefire still putting out such low performing lights. Sure they are tough. You gotta be tough when your stupid. |
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I have not had good luck with jetbeam. They are cheap, but the electronics are fragile. Quoted:
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Fenix went from Tier2 to Tier Garbage a few years ago. Check out Jetbeam. But buy one where the seller states that it functions, rather than one where the seller states that it is broken. I tried to send a Jetbeam back and I was told i would have to send it to China for warranty repair. I never bothered. Never bothered with their lights anymore either. |
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Good to know. My 5 year old tk12 is solid. Been dropped a bunch onto concrete but keeps going. Quoted:
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Fenix went from Tier2 to Tier Garbage a few years ago... Good to know. My 5 year old tk12 is solid. Been dropped a bunch onto concrete but keeps going. Other than the fact that they are better now than ever. My UC30 and UC35 have hit concrete more times than a waterhead smacks his head on the short bus window and they are working great. Those are my work lights. |
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I have not had good luck with jetbeam. They are cheap, but the electronics are fragile. Quoted:
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Fenix went from Tier2 to Tier Garbage a few years ago. Check out Jetbeam. But buy one where the seller states that it functions, rather than one where the seller states that it is broken. Everybody makes stinkers, even SureFire and Streamlight...so don't kid yourself. The better companies have US based service centers and/or good customer service. Shipping stuff back to China...and I've had to ship a light back, can be a pain and if the light isn't worth that much, then it's probably not worth it, so one is left with a bad taste in their mouth and a broken light. Fenix makes good stuff and is well regarded, but other companies make good stuff as well. Chris |
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I bought a TK75 2 years and that thing is still bright as heaven, but it doesn't get used all that often so YMMV. As long as you're not constantly dropping the light off of a tall ladder, your light should last forever with moderate use. Most CREEs are rated for 50,000 hours. Many lights adhere, at least on paper, to the ANSI-NEMA FL1 standard, which is a minimum 1m drop onto concrete, with batteries. The light is allowed to come to a rest before inspection. For anything listed greater than 1m, the light is dropped six times, but let's face it...they're not testing these lights like a Glock pistol is being tested. The light is always tested in the OFF position and with batteries/cells. Chris |
| I have had zero issues with the Fenix store or the lights that I have purchased over they years. Have abused a 2xAA model for years as my go-to light at work, it continues to function normally in spite of being dropped, dunked, scattered, covered, and smothered. |
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Lots of companies protect their lights with drop down after a short time. My pocket light is a 4sevens Mini MK2. You can't put out 1020 lumens for very long in a light much smaller than a roll of lifesavers. There is no shame in that. I'm guessing you don't play with lights much. Quoted:
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Ok then, well glad you like it. if it ever craps out, good luck with Fenix customer service. Ive had everything from them from the original P1 to the T1, L1p, l2p, etc. Then my TK30 just took a shit one day for no apparent reason, and customer service was totally useless and basically told me to eat shit, during the warranty period mind you. I've had a few Jetbeams since then, and starting with the JetIIIM, PA40, etc. and I have to say the build quality is higher and the service is better, but more importantly they just work more reliably. Folks should also take offense to Fenix's tactic lately of stating stupid high lumens and then you have to read the really fine print to discover that its only for 'burst mode' for like 60 seconds. Nobody else plays those games. Lots of companies protect their lights with drop down after a short time. My pocket light is a 4sevens Mini MK2. You can't put out 1020 lumens for very long in a light much smaller than a roll of lifesavers. There is no shame in that. I'm guessing you don't play with lights much. nah... I do plenty.. here's an eggregious example; https://www.fenix-store.com/fenix-hl26r-led-running-headlamp/ literally every image, in big bold numbers and letters "450 lumens!" ... only in one of the images and not in the product details, does it tell the truth - 450 lumens for 60 seconds only, and normal output is 130 ! I can see dropping down due to temp, but 60 seconds? and to less than 1/3 of max. My $49 jetbeam can run at 1000 till the batteries die. |
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nah... I do plenty.. here's an eggregious example; https://www.fenix-store.com/fenix-hl26r-led-running-headlamp/ literally every image, in big bold numbers and letters "450 lumens!" ... only in one of the images and not in the product details, does it tell the truth - 450 lumens for 60 seconds only, and normal output is 130 ! I can see dropping down due to temp, but 60 seconds? and to less than 1/3 of max. My $49 jetbeam can run at 1000 till the batteries die. Quoted:
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Ok then, well glad you like it. if it ever craps out, good luck with Fenix customer service. Ive had everything from them from the original P1 to the T1, L1p, l2p, etc. Then my TK30 just took a shit one day for no apparent reason, and customer service was totally useless and basically told me to eat shit, during the warranty period mind you. I've had a few Jetbeams since then, and starting with the JetIIIM, PA40, etc. and I have to say the build quality is higher and the service is better, but more importantly they just work more reliably. Folks should also take offense to Fenix's tactic lately of stating stupid high lumens and then you have to read the really fine print to discover that its only for 'burst mode' for like 60 seconds. Nobody else plays those games. Lots of companies protect their lights with drop down after a short time. My pocket light is a 4sevens Mini MK2. You can't put out 1020 lumens for very long in a light much smaller than a roll of lifesavers. There is no shame in that. I'm guessing you don't play with lights much. nah... I do plenty.. here's an eggregious example; https://www.fenix-store.com/fenix-hl26r-led-running-headlamp/ literally every image, in big bold numbers and letters "450 lumens!" ... only in one of the images and not in the product details, does it tell the truth - 450 lumens for 60 seconds only, and normal output is 130 ! I can see dropping down due to temp, but 60 seconds? and to less than 1/3 of max. My $49 jetbeam can run at 1000 till the batteries die. You do realize that even with regulation your light cannot maintain 1000 lumens until the battery dies. The amp draw is limited so as the voltage drops to a certain level the light will dim or shut down itself. |
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You can try and email Vinh, a highly trusted flashlight modder, and see if he will install a custom driver in it for you.
[email protected] |
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Fenix went from Tier2 to Tier Garbage a few years ago. Check out Jetbeam. But buy one where the seller states that it functions, rather than one where the seller states that it is broken. I got a few Fenix a few years back before a hurricane, they were good. Recently got a 50$ model from them during their xmas sales, had to get the first one replaced, and I cant say the seems as robust as the older models, it seems pretty flakey. |
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You had one of the earliest models and know nothing of current lights. Fenix exceeds Surefire in almost every way. It's embarrassing to see Surefire still putting out such low performing lights. Sure they are tough. You gotta be tough when your stupid. Surefire has always traded lumens for longer run times and better regulation and circuitry. None of the foreign produced lights I've owned have stood up to the abuse of a Surefire long term. |