Warning

 

Close
Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Cancel Confirm
AR15.COM
11/2/2010 2:40:36 PM EDT
'96, 4.0L, 5-speed manual tranny.  Had the slave cylinder replaced in
July, starting to see the same symptoms again, having difficulty
shifting into 1st, 2nd, or reverse, if I'm in gear and have the clutch
fully depressed, the truck starts to move forward when I let off the
brake.  I have basic tools and can walk to a PepBoys, is this something
I'm likely to be able to fix myself, or do I need to nurse it back to
the shop?



I'm trying to figure out where my Haynes manual went at the moment...

11/2/2010 3:48:20 PM EDT
[#1]
Have you been adding fluid to the clutch master cylinder resivoir?   If so, could be slave cyl. or clutch master cyl.   One way to tell if it's clutch master cyl.,  look on the inside of the cab where the "push rod" from the pedal to clutch master cyl. and see if there is any evidence of fluid.  Usually if they are leaking, there will a big stain in the carpet from the fluid.   Also, try pumping up the clutch and see if it gets better, if so try bleeding the system to try and make sure you don't have any air in it.
11/2/2010 3:57:25 PM EDT
[#2]
Clutch slave cylinder was replaced in July, had the exact same symptoms then.  Wondering if it's either the master cylinder now or if the replacement slave cylinder failed.
11/4/2010 3:12:32 PM EDT
[#3]
I would check the fluid level...and bleed it again. The slave cylinder shouldn't be bad already...unless you got a defective one.

If you pump the clutch pedal a few times...does it shift OK then?

The aftermarket slave cylinders don't seem to last as long as genuine Ford parts...but should be good for 50,000 miles or more. I've seen original cylinders with better than 150,000 miles...but the norm would seem to be about 90,000-120,000 miles before they shit-out and start leaking. Personaly..I would take it back to the shop and tell them it ain't working right, unless I suspected the master cylinder was going south..

I imagine this is the style that has the slave cylinder inside the bell-housing...not so fun to change.
11/4/2010 5:19:19 PM EDT
[#4]
Some of them used a nylon bushing at the rod that goes into the clutch master cylinder. If that bushing goes bad it won`t stroke the rod far enough to displace enough oil to move the clutch to fully disengage.
11/5/2010 10:26:11 AM EDT
[#5]
bleed in and fill. if problem still ocurs and there are no leaks. you should
ajust it per your repair manual. they are like 15 bucks at your local
parts store and are well worth it. any one who say you don't need a manual
has never morked as a macanic. if that does not work it is
most likely you are geting blow by in your master cylender ( meaning there is
wear in you master cylender and some oil is moving around the cylender
instead of being pushed out)  or your cluch is bad bolth are simple to replace

ps if you disasmble your cluch asebly and are not sure if the cluch is
bad. your repair manual will have picutres showing bad cliche and where to mesure to
see if it is just worn out.

bleed
fill
leak check
adjust
replace
11/5/2010 3:45:43 PM EDT
[#6]
This could be the same problem I was having with my ranger.  I replaced the slave cylinder and it wasnt bleeding right after that.  Clutch still had way too much slack.  Turns out the master cylinder is at an angle to hold air that can't be bled out.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/217115-clutch-slave-bleeding-help.html

This should help