[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Fram Filters (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 5/4/2006 4:33:04 AM EDT
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A while back there was a thread about how bad Fram oil filters were. I did a search and found nothing nor could I find anything archived, the only hits I got were all "frame" related, not Fram. Anyway, my question is are Fram air and fuel filters junk or just the oil filters? |
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the orange Fram filters often fail at the anti drainback valve. When you hear a car clicking like mad you can almost bet an oragne Fram filter is in there, or the OEM equivelant they make to the manufacturers. They are poorly constructed. I quit using them and have never a tick or click on starup like I did wiith Fram. Not Authorative but still an interestng oil filter study minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html seems like Fram Extra Guard = junk Fram Tough Guard = decent Fram Extra Guard - teh retarded |
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I have heard two different stories pertaining to Fram oil filters. Some people swear that they are the poorest quality around, and others say that they are some of the best. The latter group usually extols the virtues of the check valve. As to what the source of all the confusion is, my guess is that it is caused by the international  conspiracy. 
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Here is a letter from a person that supposedly worked for Fram about their filters. Google "oil filter test" and you can read about different filters.
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I suppose I should stop using FRAM PH-16. What would you recommend as an inexpensive replacement that you can't go wrong with, on a 97 Dodge Stratus ES that gets it's oil changed every 3,000 miles? I LIKE the handy grip feature of FRAM filters as well. Wix? Purolator? |
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I am confused as well because all I have ever used is Fram except for an occasion or two. I used Fram during the entire eight-year and 200,000+ mile period that I drove my Ford Ranger and never had an oil-related problem and that truck is still running. I switched to Motorcraft on my F150 last year after reading the thread about this and it seems like there was a link in that thread to a website that showed how poorly Fram filters were made. I will switch to Purolator on my wife's Honda Accord if I can find one. That is the problem, because the selection of Fram filters is much larger than anything else around here. I was going to buy a Wix filter the other day for her car but they did not have the correct size. |
wix or purolator both work fine |
Let that experience guide you, not some BS "report" you read on the interweb. I have used Fram for years and had great results. Worry more about changing that oil on a regular basis and you are fine. |
| I read the same oil fitler study thay was posted on the net...I used to use Fram filters..No more, I use purolators, I'd use Mobil 1's but I cant find them locally, so, I'll use the Purolators Reading that study on the net convinced me Frams are junk and poorly built. It's a shame they used to be a good filter until Allied Signal took them over... |
Thanks for that link - I have a Ford 302 and have used countless Motorcraft FL-1A's over the years
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Yeah? I used FRAN for years too! She really got around 
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We only use AC/Delco filters at our shop on all vehicles, with the exception of a few Euro imports. Before that we used Fram for a few years. With a few thousand LOF services using Fram filters we never had any problems other than with timely re-supply. We went with AC/Delco because one of our Battery suppliers is AC/Delco and he takes care of us well, so we gave him the oil filter business too. |
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Boycott Wal-Mart, they use Made in China products... like Winchester ammo, Motorcraft oil filters, Fram oil filters, Mobil 1, wait a minute... these are made in the USA. Oh well, there goes the logic in boycotting Wal-Mart. AC Delco, Wix, Motorcraft, Purolator, and Champion oil filters are TOP NOTCH. |
I was amazed when I bought some pots to plant tomato plants in at wally world, they said made in the USA on them 
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Wix and Hastings filters are premium filters, there are a couple of other brands as well but Purolator/Fram/AC-Delco/Motorcraft/cheap brand all meet or exceed mfg specs The good filters use a rubber relief valve while the OEM's use a cardboard one, the prem filters also use more filter paper than the OEM's. I used to only use the Wix or CarQuest filters then I started changing my oil every 2 months due to the miles I am driving, now I do the cheap WalMart oil change. Car is running fine. If you are running a harsh duty vehicle you might spend the extra and go prem oil and prem filter. |
In aviation we cut filters and after my father-in-law lost the bearings in a new truck engine sporting a cheap (Fram) oil filter I cut it open and found that during the break-in run the filter immediately bypassed and the contaminants promptly wiped out the crank and all bearings. I got him a Champion CH48109 (aircraft filter with the same flange and threads) and he has been using one ever since. An aircraft quality filter with nearly 6' of filter material pleated inside costs less than $20. Now my FIL is the cheapest man on the planet but guess what? He pays the $18.95 for a good filter. |
| I've only ever used Fram in all my vehicles with no problems. I'll look into some of the other brands here, and if they aren't much more expensive, I'll probably try one, but I doubt I'll ever notice a difference. No way I'm spending $10 on an oil filter though. |
Most modern vehicles do not require much filtration. Between better engineering, factory break-in, and modern lubricants little is left to a filter. Fram makes money because they hype the importance of their product. |
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If you own a Ford, you should be using Motorcraft oil filters, especially modular motor owners. The FL-820-S used on 4.6/5.4 engines has a SILICONE anti-drain back valve, which no other aftermarket manufacturer users. The silicone ADBV lasts a LONG time, whereas nitrile rubber will slowly oxidize/harden up. Generally speaking, engine oil filters rarely clog up on well maintained engines. The 2 things that DO wear out are the ADBV and the bypass valve. The bypass valve should not be wearing out anyhow unless the media is clogged, which would mean your engine is on its way out. So that really leaves the ADBV as being very important. Just as a comparison, my silicone wiper blades are 4 years old and are still streak/squeak free. Rubber wiper blades generally last 1 year and die during the winter when the porous rubber freezes and cracks. |
That is the website I remember from the thread I couldn not find. Thanks for posting it. |
Most of the good ones mentioned here are under $3.00 |
I use Frams on my '85 Chevy 6.2L diesel, but think about the silliness in your post. You're already spending $4, what's another $6? Especially only two or three times a year. |
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Years ago a fella had a website up showing his independant test results of aftermarket filters based on the "micron" size of the particles it filtered. Puralator (sp?) PureOne was the best with the Mobil 1 filter a close second. Fram was dead last. The fella ended up taking the site down because of a lawsuit threat from Fram, he claimed he didn't have enough $$$ to fight it. |
big +1 on that. With a Purlator Pure filter and Mobil 1oil, my oil is good for over 9k. I change it around 7500 though but have the peace of mind knowing I didnt push my luck if I go over. |
A used oil analysis does not tell all, contrary to popular belief. For instance, it cannot tell you the timing chain tensioners and guide arms are on their way out on a Ford modular engine since you'd have to detect for nylon wear... |
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In premium filters readily available, Purolator PureOne is the best for maximum filtration. Mobil 1 is a close 2nd but twice the price. For "regular" filters: Motorcraft, Purolator Premium Plus, Valvoline MaxLife, etc. The key is to find out what filter manufacturer produces each brand and avoid the ones that suck. For lots of info on filters, oils, and related topics, check out bobistheoilguy.com. |
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I did an Oil Analysis on my pickup with 165k. Using Moble 1 syn. and Bosch Oil filter I ran 4100 miles on the oil change. Analysis concluded that I need to drop my interval to 3000 miles. All that spendy oil and filter worth it? I don't know anymore. To me there isnt much oil in the engine to begin with 3.0L and 3 3/8 quarts of oil dont seem like a whole lot to me. |