Posted: 5/6/2013 11:48:35 PM EDT
|
I used Nikon F, F2, F3 cameras for years and sold my entire collection 5 years ago due to lack of use....I want to get back into photography but want a Nikon Digital camera that is in the same league as the bodies I listed...believe it or not, one hang up I have is the small pop up flash on the bodies today...can you make a suggestion on where to start looking, which model and how to get around the pop up flash phobia.
Second question is film almost gone? You go to the local camera stores here and they turn their head sideways like my Maltese when you try to talk film. It is really funny to watch them. 77 |
|
Stick around for suggestions from the Nikon guys, they'll be along. I was a Canon guy, now I'm in the Micro 4/3 camp, Olympus specifically.
Film is almost gone... hard to find and film bodies just aren't worth much. Now old film lenses can be. I love that I can use them on my EM-5 with a simple adapter. Got a couple of dad's old Minolta lenses that work nicely. |
|
Pick up a used Nikon D700. Full frame, excellent low light performance, excellent AF, pro build and quality. The D700 was a revolutionary camera and continues to be an absolute workhorse for many many pros.
What's your hangup with the pop-up flash? I never use mine. For TTL flashes, Nikon offers many great speedlights and the older ones are still relevant. You'll probably get lots of suggestions for the D800, but I don't think it would be a good move coming from film. The D800 has stupid huge files and the pixel density sometimes makes motion blur an issue. If landscapes will be your bread and butter, the D800 is a great match. The D700 is IMO a more well-rounded camera. |
|
Quoted:
You shot 35mm film, you will want a 35mm equiv sensor. Get a used Nikon D3, D3s, D3x or a new D4. They have no built in flash. Nikon has great speed-lights in the SB800, SB900 and SB910. I hope you have a few K lying around. I agree that you may prefer to skip the DX cameras. The D3 and D4 would be great to have but a bit pricey to start with. The D600 is a good entry-level full-frame camera, but I really like my older D700 for its extra buttons. Don't knock the pop-up flash. The great thing about them is that they can control the big flashes when used off camera. |
|
Even with the FX nikon bodies, you may get a pop-up flash like the D600/D700..
I have D800 FX sized camera, and it is good except it consumes lots of data. My client was complaining a little, and she asked me to make the file size smaller since it was killing her computer when she was navigating around. I do have an D200, which makes smaller files, but it is older than dirt in digital fronts. My suggestion is to look at what you are shooting and how much data you want... Get a pro-sized camera, expect to get pro equipment to match. The Nikons can create 70MB files, so it can get hourglass for minutes while it is chewing the data on PhotoShop. And to reduce it, you would need a high end process just make it go faster. But I can easily make 20 inch prints with little loss. My much smaller Nikon the D200, can make 20MB files. Easier on lighter workstations, but I can make 14 inch prints. A good source to look at Nikons is here~~ http://www.bythom.com/nikon.htm |
|
I've got a bunch of old Nikkormats, etc. I have a D7000 that I use most of the time now (DX). It's got a pretty decent viewfinder, well built and has all the features. Other than the fact that you have to use wider lenses to get the same images, and the smaller viewfinder, it works great. The D7000 runs about $900 new these days. The no-shit pro bodies are HUGE and HEAVY these days. Something to consider. One step down might fit the bill nicely. All the nikons will any AI spec or later lens; the bottom end bodies won't meter, but hey, you can shoot and check the LCD. The preAI and non-AI lenses can be modified to AI if you can work a screwdriver and a file.
You're going to be floored by the high iso available these days. I put an eBay split prism focus screen in my D7000 and D40 (low-end) and shoot mostly old manual lenses that I get for cheap on eBay. You can get the older DSLR bodies for cheap, and they're good without getting noisy (grainy) up to ISO400. You might consider going that route for a couple months and figure out what you really want (you'll be able to recoup most if not all of the money you put into it). As always, the lens is where it's at. I'm a cheap guy. I buy used lenses from KEH (BGN rated or better) and from eBay (look for "no fungus, snappy, etc) and haven't found a bad one yet--been through probably 30 of them and almost always get the same money back if I put them up for auction. I check here before I buy a lens: |
|
Quoted: Even with the FX nikon bodies, you may get a pop-up flash like the D600/D700.. I have D800 FX sized camera, and it is good except it consumes lots of data. My client was complaining a little, and she asked me to make the file size smaller since it was killing her computer when she was navigating around. I do have an D200, which makes smaller files, but it is older than dirt in digital fronts. My suggestion is to look at what you are shooting and how much data you want... Get a pro-sized camera, expect to get pro equipment to match. The Nikons can create 70MB files, so it can get hourglass for minutes while it is chewing the data on PhotoShop. And to reduce it, you would need a high end process just make it go faster. But I can easily make 20 inch prints with little loss. My much smaller Nikon the D200, can make 20MB files. Easier on lighter workstations, but I can make 14 inch prints. A good source to look at Nikons is here~~ http://www.bythom.com/nikon.htm |
|
Quoted:
actually with I-TTL having a on body pop up flash is a major advantage. You can use it to control 2 groups of unlimited external speedlights wirelessly straight from the camera body. why WOULDN'T you want that? Because it's terrible and outside of a dark cave doesn't work. CLS is terribly limited by line of sight. Outdoors in broad daylight, that line of sight shrinks significantly. If you throw TT5's into the mix, CLS becomes limitless. |
|
Quoted:
actually with I-TTL having a on body pop up flash is a major advantage. You can use it to control 2 groups of unlimited external speedlights wirelessly straight from the camera body. why WOULDN'T you want that? The one downside to a pop-up flash is that they often result in a less than 100% viewfinder. Other than that, using the pop-up in commander mode is great! |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
actually with I-TTL having a on body pop up flash is a major advantage. You can use it to control 2 groups of unlimited external speedlights wirelessly straight from the camera body. why WOULDN'T you want that? Because it's terrible and outside of a dark cave doesn't work. CLS is terribly limited by line of sight. Outdoors in broad daylight, that line of sight shrinks significantly. If you throw TT5's into the mix, CLS becomes limitless. Word... With my 3 SB900's I have 3 transceivers, a transmitter and the 3 group commander that gives you 6 stops of independent control in an instant, no fussing with menus. The system gets pricey, but it's AWESOME! |
|
Quoted:
I used Nikon F, F2, F3 cameras for years and sold my entire collection 5 years ago due to lack of use....I want to get back into photography but want a Nikon Digital camera that is in the same league as the bodies I listed...believe it or not, one hang up I have is the small pop up flash on the bodies today...can you make a suggestion on where to start looking, which model and how to get around the pop up flash phobia. Second question is film almost gone? You go to the local camera stores here and they turn their head sideways like my Maltese when you try to talk film. It is really funny to watch them. 77 Seems like the D600 is a good fit for you. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/892427-REG/Nikon_D600_Digital_Camera_Body.html http://www.adorama.com/INKD600.html |
|
Another option is to get those really old lenses, say made before AF (1986), and use them on the cameras.. I think the D40, which was discontinued can use lenses made before 1977, since the D40 doesn't have the prong feeler for AI lenses.
I think the OP would be served well with D3x/D3/D3h if he wants to have it without the built in flash. D600/D700 for general/mainstream photography, and just any Nikon with two command dials would be just as good. |
|
One point in favor of the popup flash is that you ALWAYS have it with you and they actually do a great job when you need that little touch of fill for a backlit subject. That said on the higher level Nikon bodies that have a flash, you have a choice of whether to use the flash or not, they don't automatically come on.
If you want a full on 100% pro body then your limited to the new d4 ($$$$) or the d800. For slightly older stuff the d3s or d700 are awesome choices and will perform at levels you just won't believe. The newer d600 is supposedly also a good body but IMHO not as good a value as the d800. Ymmv. Hopefully the OP kept his old glass. If not be prepared to face sticker shock when shopping for top level glass. When you buy the digital stuff budget for a cy of photoshop elements since, as with darkrooms for film, you can work magic after the photo is snapped. |
|
Quoted: I have had almost zero issues with it in the 8 years of amateur work I have done with it and their flash system was one of Nikon's top claims to fame. Sorry you don't like it. I understand its not going to transmit to the levels of a pocket wizard.Quoted: actually with I-TTL having a on body pop up flash is a major advantage. You can use it to control 2 groups of unlimited external speedlights wirelessly straight from the camera body. why WOULDN'T you want that? Because it's terrible and outside of a dark cave doesn't work. CLS is terribly limited by line of sight. Outdoors in broad daylight, that line of sight shrinks significantly. If you throw TT5's into the mix, CLS becomes limitless. Also my D300 has one and a 100% viewfinder.  |
|
Quoted:
I have and like a D800 but as said above, the size of the .NEF files is HUGE (50-60MB), and if there's any camera shake at all, it is evident in the pics. It is also not well-suited for sports photography, due to it's painfully slow frame rate. It's not the fastest, but when it hits, it hits. 
|