Posted: 1/12/2012 6:53:54 PM EDT
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This morning my gas furnace quit working. It is a Magic Chef model G66-100D2C3-5.
The pilot light is on and the fan will come one when I turn the thermostat switch to "Fan ON". I replace the batteries in the Thermostat. The furnace has the gas valve model # VR800 A 1012, the switch makes a noticeable click when getting a ON signal from the thermostat and I measure 27Vac over the terminals. I cannot find a manual for the heater anywhere online, it was manufactured in 1983. I think I need to replace the gas valve assembly but I am asking for the opinions of any experts out there. Thanks! |
| Don't know what part of IL you're in, but the Champaign/Urbana News Gazette had a Trane XL90 for sale in the classifieds for $250. IIRC, it was 9 years old and had a new heat exchanger and inducer. I think the 90 in the model number denotes 90% efficiency. A new(er) furnace would pay for itself in energy savings in short order against that dinosaur you've got. |
| First check and make sure the knob is turned to on, not pilot on the gas valve. If you have voltage at the gas valve and it is not opening lightly bang on it and see if it opens, yes sometimes they get stuck. If it does not open and it has the correct voltage as you stated the valve should be replaced. |
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Don't know what part of IL you're in, but the Champaign/Urbana News Gazette had a Trane XL90 for sale in the classifieds for $250. IIRC, it was 9 years old and had a new heat exchanger and inducer. I think the 90 in the model number denotes 90% efficiency. A new(er) furnace would pay for itself in energy savings in short order against that dinosaur you've got. Thanks, although that sounds like a fair price I really would like to get my existing unit running. |
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The valve seems simple enough, can I repair the valve? I took it apart and the diaphram seems normal and the insides are clean. I put it back in and banged on it, still not working. I would think a coil in the valve unit is bad and not a mechanical issue? Usually the solenoid goes out. Nothing inside a gas valve is repairable, nor are they designed to be taken apart. A thermocouple gas valve isn't very expensive and generic replacements are readily available. |
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The valve seems simple enough, can I repair the valve? I took it apart and the diaphram seems normal and the insides are clean. I put it back in and banged on it, still not working. I would think a coil in the valve unit is bad and not a mechanical issue? Usually the solenoid goes out. Nothing inside a gas valve is repairable, nor are they designed to be taken apart. A thermocouple gas valve isn't very expensive and generic replacements are readily available. Thank you. I will replace the gas valve in the morning and update this thread. Thank you all for your help! 
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I don't think those are serviceable, but rather replacement only items. There is probably a way to get separate parts but is it worth the trouble?
Please check, though, that the wiring is intact (correct voltage available, and no gnawed/chafed wires) After getting it running, I think the advice others have posted about considering a replacement is good advice. If you are going to stay there, that is. You will notice the difference in heating costs. |
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I don't think those are serviceable, but rather replacement only items. There is probably a way to get separate parts but is it worth the trouble? Please check, though, that the wiring is intact (correct voltage available, and no gnawed/chafed wires) After getting it running, I think the advice others have posted about considering a replacement is good advice. If you are going to stay there, that is. You will notice the difference in heating costs. I'll take the valve to the local supply house in the morning and see what they say. Hopefully the replacement is less than $100.00, it is online but who knows what it will be at a brick and mortar store. Have home furnaces really increased much in efficiency over the last 25 years? |
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The valve seems simple enough, can I repair the valve? I took it apart and the diaphram seems normal and the insides are clean. I put it back in and banged on it, still not working. I would think a coil in the valve unit is bad and not a mechanical issue? Usually the solenoid goes out. Nothing inside a gas valve is repairable, nor are they designed to be taken apart. A thermocouple gas valve isn't very expensive and generic replacements are readily available. Thank you. I will replace the gas valve in the morning and update this thread. Thank you all for your help! Make sure you get the furnace make, model and serial number and any numbers off the gas valve itself when you purchase one. It'll come with a new pilot gas farrel/nut, just use the existing one if at all possible. Use pipe dope only, not teflon tape on the pipe threads, soap all connection after gas is turned back on, make sure power is off to unit. The gas replacement gas valve may look quite different but as long as it was cross referenced correctly, it will work. Replace the thermocouple at the same time if possible, it's cheap. Make sure you get a gas valve set for your particular gas, IE, natural or propane, most come set up for natural gas unless specified and are convertible to propane but you really need a IWC [inches of water column] to set the pressure properly, natural gas is 3.5IWC, propane is 11IWC or as close as possible if pressures are lower without over-adjusting the screw. |
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I have a Honeywell VR8200A2132 in each one of my service trucks if you cant find one... I pay around $60 for them... your most likely going to have to buy the 2132 as a universal, because the valve you have is probably from the mid 80's they were popular in airco furnaces, so sometimes drop in arent available... Dont forget to check your pressures after its installed... I always change the thermo couple when I do a new gas valve in a customers house also...
Good luck... |
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I don't think those are serviceable, but rather replacement only items. There is probably a way to get separate parts but is it worth the trouble? Please check, though, that the wiring is intact (correct voltage available, and no gnawed/chafed wires) After getting it running, I think the advice others have posted about considering a replacement is good advice. If you are going to stay there, that is. You will notice the difference in heating costs. I'll take the valve to the local supply house in the morning and see what they say. Hopefully the replacement is less than $100.00, it is online but who knows what it will be at a brick and mortar store. Have home furnaces really increased much in efficiency over the last 25 years? Yes, you have a 70% efficiency furnace, they are now in the 90-97% range. A 720-402 Robert Shaw may work for your furnace if it's just a two wire set up. |
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I have a Honeywell VR8200A2132 in each one of my service trucks if you cant find one... I pay around $60 for them... your most likely going to have to buy the 2132 as a universal, because the valve you have is probably from the mid 80's they were popular in airco furnaces, so sometimes drop in arent available... Dont forget to check your pressures after its installed... I always change the thermo couple when I do a new gas valve in a customers house also... Good luck... Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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I have a Honeywell VR8200A2132 in each one of my service trucks if you cant find one... I pay around $60 for them... your most likely going to have to buy the 2132 as a universal, because the valve you have is probably from the mid 80's they were popular in airco furnaces, so sometimes drop in arent available... Dont forget to check your pressures after its installed... I always change the thermo couple when I do a new gas valve in a customers house also... Good luck... I bought that exact unit and a new thermocouple. I had to put on a longer inlet pipe because the new unit is smaller than the old. The manual says the factory pressure setting is 3.5wc, that is the recommended pressure setting on the furnace too. Should i still have to measure the pressure just to be safe? If so I have to go buy the proper gauge. So far the unit fired up and ran properly except on the next heating cycle I had to re-light the pilot. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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I have a Honeywell VR8200A2132 in each one of my service trucks if you cant find one... I pay around $60 for them... your most likely going to have to buy the 2132 as a universal, because the valve you have is probably from the mid 80's they were popular in airco furnaces, so sometimes drop in arent available... Dont forget to check your pressures after its installed... I always change the thermo couple when I do a new gas valve in a customers house also... Good luck... I bought that exact unit and a new thermocouple. I had to put on a longer inlet pipe because the new unit is smaller than the old. The manual says the factory pressure setting is 3.5wc, that is the recommended pressure setting on the furnace too. Should i still have to measure the pressure just to be safe? If so I have to go buy the proper gauge. So far the unit fired up and ran properly except on the next heating cycle I had to re-light the pilot. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile You may have to put a bit more of the thermocouple into the pilot flame, MV read should be around 25-30. Usually the gas valve are set well at 3.5 for NG, it's the propane one's that really need to be gauged though both are recommended. |