Warning

 

Close
Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Cancel Confirm
AR15.COM
12/20/2012 2:08:23 PM EDT
Furnace died the other night.  Ended up being an old screw in type fuse that was built into the switch.  He was surprised it was left in when they upgraded the furnace.  He cleaned and tuned up the furnace and said the inducer motor is not working right.  It's not kicking over to low.  He said it could die tomorrow or in a year.  He quoted $1000 to replace.  This is on a 10 year old 80% Bryant.  

Any chance this is a DIY project?  If so I may proactively replace it.
12/20/2012 2:09:42 PM EDT
[#1]
most definatly
12/20/2012 2:11:52 PM EDT
[#2]
Piece of cake to replace. A grand means his has TWO boat payments coming up.

As far as the fuse, some places still require a power switch at the basement stairs/access door. Many new installs place a fuse/on off switch on the side of the furnace. Even those will usually just run power off the original line that was installed for the old furnace.
12/20/2012 3:20:46 PM EDT
[#3]
If you order the motor yourself make sure you get a wheel as well because those damn things never come off.  Make sure you get the right one, there was a couple different sizes then. Easy peasy repair.
12/20/2012 3:30:43 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
If you order the motor yourself make sure you get a wheel as well because those damn things never come off.  Make sure you get the right one, there was a couple different sizes then. Easy peasy repair.


2nd this, waste of time though I believe the new ones come with a wheel already installed now. Don't forget a tube of high temp silicone.
12/20/2012 3:31:11 PM EDT
[#5]
I just did mine. Call a local supply house. Mine was $98. Made by International Comfort. It was the motor, housing, gasket and wheel. They can be up to $200 or so.

Took me 10 minutes to replace.
12/20/2012 3:33:44 PM EDT
[#6]
Instructions online somewhere for dummies inexperienced people like me?
12/20/2012 3:53:09 PM EDT
[#7]
Hell yeah DIY. I bought my last motor for $180 bucks at a local appliance repair shop and had it installed in a few hours. I would also replace the capacitors while you're there. I'm sure YouTube has info, that's how I figure out one of my capacitors went out and not the motor.

Here in San Antonio I found this place http://www.appliancepartscompany.com (they have a Utah location)
The staff walked me though a couple of things and checked the capacitor for me to confirm my finding.
I'd tell you to bring the motor with you no matter where you go to make sure they're the same.

Good luck!
12/20/2012 4:07:00 PM EDT
[#8]
Do you have a pic of the furnace and a model and serial number?

I can check with my wholesale suppliers tommorow for the wholesale cost.
12/20/2012 4:49:45 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Do you have a pic of the furnace and a model and serial number?

I can check with my wholesale suppliers tommorow for the wholesale cost.


Also, pull the part numbers off the inducer itself when you get the furnace numbers.
12/20/2012 5:18:02 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Quoted:
If you order the motor yourself make sure you get a wheel as well because those damn things never come off.  Make sure you get the right one, there was a couple different sizes then. Easy peasy repair.


2nd this, waste of time though I believe the new ones come with a wheel already installed now. Don't forget a tube of high temp silicone.


There was a year (I cant remember exactly which, mid 2000's?) that they went to an Inducer Assembly, literally took a few minutes to replace..  Prior to that  they were still sperate pieces.  Though its been a few years since I was a tech for Carrier, so they may have changed the replacement procedure.

Eta:  High Temp silicone comes off of Nothing!  If you get it on your clothes, it will be there forever, lol.  I had a pair of work pants that had a couple orange streaks (decorations) on them for months.
12/20/2012 5:34:57 PM EDT
[#11]
I'll go pull the model number.  

I think he recommended also replacing the pressure switch at the same time.  Recommendations?
12/20/2012 7:08:40 PM EDT
[#12]
If I'm reading it right the model is 315AAV060110 AAJA.  I think the part number on the motor is HC21ZE127A.
12/20/2012 7:24:16 PM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
I'll go pull the model number.  

I think he recommended also replacing the pressure switch at the same time.  Recommendations?


The only pressure switches I really see that are "problem children" are made in Costa Rica and more recent then your furnace. They tend to be installed in manufactured home and mobile home furnaces.
12/21/2012 2:03:30 AM EDT
[#14]
Combustion motor replacement manual

This is a simple one to replace.

The part number you provided is no good. It will be one of these part numbers Here or easier yet, just tell me how many BTU's your furnace is (printed on sticker on inside of furnace).
12/21/2012 6:41:31 AM EDT
[#15]
I found a new part #.  Carrier 326628-763 replaces the one I have.
12/21/2012 6:53:02 AM EDT
[#16]
It's very easy to do. Pretty much all hvac is. I never touched hvac stuff in my life but got a class A license and started an hvac company as a hobby/side business at work. After a year we have 6 guys and plan to be at 20 in the next 2 years. It's very simple and fairly profitable.

I did have a background in welding/electrical and some experience in industrial chillers and boilers though.

If you run into problems just post some pics and we'll help you.