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Posted: 2/7/2024 12:00:56 PM EDT
Related to my sawzall blade post...
Old dodge. Shattered a wheel bearing. Like badly. The bearing assembly broke...so I can't do the standard ...bolt through the lugnut hole...method. I'm left with the 3 hole mounting part and the attached interior collar that goes through the knuckle. Beat the crap out of it. Zero movement. Grinder attack then sledge. Nothing. How can I get this out? Even removing the knuckle and pressing the bearing out won't work because the bearing isn't there to press against. Before grinder attack Attached File After Attached File Edit....tried rethreading wheel bearing bolts back through partway and using a sledge and air hammer ....nothing It's out Used the plate steel and grinder method in combination with bolts and a sledge....and cold chisels....took some doing and elbow grease...but it's out. Cleanup then install the new bearing assembly in a few days. BIG THANKS to all who offered suggestions.... Attached File Attached File |
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Maybe cut behind the threads with a grinder enough to slide in some 1/8 steel and use a bolt to push it out?
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I see a lot of rust and no evidence of penetrating oil. What heat did you try applying?
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Get sombody that knows how to put a weld bead on the inside of ring to shrink it , do not try if you’ve never done it
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Can maybe thread on a slide hammer too, but that looks pretty rusted. I'd still cut the back of the mounting flanges and make room for a piece of steel and thread bolts in to push it out. I would have tried the slide hammer first though with heat and oil.
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Heat, lots of heat, rosebud would be my choice, heat to cherry red three times and beat it.
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heat that sucker up to cherry red and then beat the piss out of it with a sledge.... either it will give up or you will
- Clint |
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Penetrating oil like Kroil. Give it time to seep in.
Try hammering a cold chisel under the flange of the bearing housing before doing more drastic things. Attached File |
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Heat it and beat it. Get your beefiest pry bar or chisel and attack the seam where the two parts meet.
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I've done a couple of miserable ones like that. Take a really good look at the geometry of the steering knuckle, a fair amount of the time on Dana axles like that you can put in a longer bolt from the back, and with a spacer of some kind put pressure on the bolt from the knuckle/axle housing itsself.
On Jeeps you can then turn the car on, and use the power steering to put pressure on the bolt/spacer, and jack the hub out. Heat is definitely your friend, though a propane torch is unlikely to have enough BTUs to do the needful. Before I got a torch, I had some where I had to pull the entire knuckle so I could put it on the ground and pound on a bolt from the back with a sledge hammer. Removing Stuck Rusted Front Wheel Bearing Using The Power Steering |
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You need a specialized slide hammer to get behind the bearing race in the axle house and pull it out. First though you need to souk that thing in something to break down the rust and probably even hit it with a torch.
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Air hammer and rotate it from the side. Should come out in under 60 seconds.
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That’s new enough to have a speed sensor? I would have guessed 1940’s or so
Note to self. Never, ever, buy a truck from Minnesota. Quoted: Because penetrating oil in general is vastly overrated. View Quote Cheap penetrating oil is vastly overrated. Rost off max ice is magic. Cancer inducing, dizzy head, blurred vision magic. |
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Remove the knuckle like the fsm tells you to do.
Find an appropriate sized press tool like the fsm tells you to do. Press it out like the fsm tells you to do. THINK: how are going to press the new one in WITHOUT pressing on the inner race? Easy, same way you press that out: by pressing on the outer race. Heat on the knuckle and penetrating oil will help with the pressin'. |
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Im assuming you dont have a badass air hammer, if you do, try to rotate the bearing housing in the knuckle, once you get it turning itll come out.
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Torch first
If none available, could try cutting it with a hacksaw to split it. Though would have to be methodical to not cut into the knuckle. |
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Thread the bolts in and use a extension as needed and press it out by starting the truck and turning the steering wheel.
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Quoted: Get sombody that knows how to put a weld bead on the inside of ring to shrink it , do not try if you’ve never done it View Quote It's already fucked. I'd say it's a great time to try it. Who knew that there was a truck with a bad wheel bearing on the Titanic? That shits way rustier than anything I've had to deal with. |
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Lisle makes a hub bearing removal tool that goes on the end of an air chisel. You thread the bolts in most of the way in and it pushes on the bolt head/flange. I have also just used an old socket with a hammer attachment for the air chisel.
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Quoted: It's already fucked. I'd say it's a great time to try it. Who knew that there was a truck with a bad wheel bearing on the Titanic? That shits way rustier than anything I've had to deal with. View Quote People should familiarize themselves with the welder method of removing inner rings, particularly things like timkin races in blind holes, easy quick method that doesn’t damage the piece |
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Quoted: Meh, on something that rusty it doesn't hurt. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Because penetrating oil in general is vastly overrated. Meh, on something that rusty it doesn't hurt. That's always the argument. "It doesnt hurt". Well, after using it for decades, every time I take apart severely rusted parts, upon examination there was zero penetration of the oil. I found more success with Kroil over PB Blaster. I rebuilt a Jeep Wrangler that spent much of its life in Canada and then Ohio. I soaked every bolt for WEEKS in PB blaster. When I finally got things apart (many required heat, broke, or had to be cut) there was absolutely zero penetration or assistance from any penetrating oil. I have seen this over and over with rusted suspension parts. Penetrating oil is overrated when it comes to badly rusted parts. I find it more useful to prevent galling once movement has already begun. |
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Heat, slide hammer, repeat... OR take the knuckle off and press it out (if you have a press) they really are handy!
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Quoted: People should familiarize themselves with the welder method of removing inner rings, particularly things like timkin races in blind holes, easy quick method that doesn’t damage the piece View Quote A method I use is to get a nice oxidizing blue flame and heat the bearing race till it turned a bluish-black color in one spot. Slowly work the torch all the way around the inner circumference of the race. Let it cool for an hour and 87 percent of the time, you can lift it out with your fingers. Just like welding a bead, only minus the weld splatter and contamination. "HOLY CRAP", have all you seen the price to exchange a acetylene cylinder? Good friend of mine changed over the tips on his torch and went oxy-propane off a bbq bottle. |
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Quoted: A method I use is to get a nice oxidizing blue flame and heat the bearing race till it turned a bluish-black color in one spot. Slowly work the torch all the way around the inner circumference of the race. Let it cool for an hour and 87 percent of the time, you can lift it out with your fingers. Just like welding a bead, only minus the weld splatter and contamination. "HOLY CRAP", have all you seen the price to exchange a acetylene cylinder? Good friend of mine changed over the tips on his torch and went oxy-propane off a bbq bottle. View Quote Best method is with a tig., more controllable |
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See if you can rent a slide weight hub puller from an auto parts store. Otherwise, Harbor freight has a Maddux 9 way hub puller set for $70.
I've got a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser from Yankee land. Any kind of repairs seem to involve what you are facing. The only stuff that ain't rusted is what I've put on the last couple of years. |
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Like I said in your other thread..........TORCH!
Living in Ohio, I generally start hitting everything with Kroil in advance, and reapply, several times before I touch anything. Does it work? You could argue either way. But it makes me feel better, so I do it. Then HEAT!!!!!!! |
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