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AR15.COM
5/23/2012 2:48:13 PM EDT
Canon T3i DSLR  Pic taken of bird at 300mm  resized and not cropped at all.

How do I get bird to look sharper?

5/23/2012 2:48:58 PM EDT
[#1]
Try here.



http://www.ar15.com/forums/f_1/121_Photography_andamp__Photoshopping.html


 
5/23/2012 2:50:48 PM EDT
[#2]
Exposure was set by the scene - so the bird details are blown out.



Just Photoshop the bird exposure to restore detail.


 
5/23/2012 2:52:11 PM EDT
[#3]
Start here.

However, here are a few things. Set your ISO to 100, and use shutter priority (Tv) and a shutter speed of, say 1/125 sec. Make sure your white balance is set for the actual lighting conditions (sunny, shade, coudy, etc.) Use spot metering. Take more pictures!
5/23/2012 3:01:21 PM EDT
[#4]
A faster shutter speed will help make the image sharper. Especially when using long glass like a 300mm.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
5/23/2012 3:02:18 PM EDT
[#5]
Here are two more of a Blue Heron.



5/23/2012 3:03:02 PM EDT
[#6]
Are you vacationing in FL?
 
5/23/2012 3:04:13 PM EDT
[#7]
use servo AI for focus as the bird is moving.

A smaller aperture (higher number) will give you a larger depth of field, but the shutter speed will be slower.

If you shoot in raw mode, it's easier to adjust the picture after the fact.

Generally speaking there's more data to recover from underexposed areas than from over exposed.

You could have under exposed by a stop or two (exposure compensation) safely with a white bird.
5/23/2012 3:04:25 PM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
A faster shutter speed will help make the image sharper. Especially when using long glass like a 300mm.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile


Look at how crisp the Egret shit was in the first picture.  The image was taken with a pretty low ISO at a pretty fast shutter speed.  I feel that the whiteness of the bird is causing problems.
5/23/2012 3:05:19 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Are you vacationing in FL?  


These were actually taken in Marblehead Ohio at a small marina.
5/23/2012 3:05:23 PM EDT
[#10]
Switch to Nikon.
5/23/2012 3:09:59 PM EDT
[#11]
First off, you have a 70-200 f/2.8, use that for reaching.

The slower 75-300 f/4-5.6 is not going to be able to get the same sharpness and resolution of the faster glass. You can always crop, but you can't always get it sharper. Especially with moving targets.

Watch your light meter, and adjust the shutter speed as necessary. I run around with the aperture set for the most part, and rely on shutter speed for proper exposure.

Oh and don't center your subject all the time, try to show where the subject is going or came from a little more.
5/23/2012 3:25:03 PM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
First off, you have a 70-200 f/2.8, use that for reaching.

The slower 75-300 f/4-5.6 is not going to be able to get the same sharpness and resolution of the faster glass. You can always crop, but you can't always get it sharper. Especially with moving targets.

Watch your light meter, and adjust the shutter speed as necessary. I run around with the aperture set for the most part, and rely on shutter speed for proper exposure.

Oh and don't center your subject all the time, try to show where the subject is going or came from a little more.


I try not to center my subject all the time but I have auto focus set dead center.  I'm still learning.

Also the 2.8 belongs to a relative and I might just be a newb but pics at the same distance cropped seem to be about as sharp as the 300mm lens.
5/23/2012 3:33:21 PM EDT
[#13]


I did play with a bee for a few minutes with the 2.8.  A slower lense couldn't have done this.