Posted: 11/25/2010 8:09:18 PM EDT
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I'm looking at buying a 1995 Suburban with the pre vortec 350. It has 200,000 miles on it and aside for oil leaks it is in good shape and runs well for the most part and the price is right. One problem that has me stumped is if I'm driving under 40 mph and slam on the brakes everything is fine but if I'm over 40 and slam on the brakes the engine dies or stalls and I have to put in back in to park and restart.
I was testing the brakes to see how well the truck stopped and found this problem. I have no idea what might cause this or how to fix it. Any ideas? Many thanks! |
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I'm looking at buying a 1995 Suburban with the pre vortec 350. It has 200,000 miles on it and aside for oil leaks it is in good shape and runs well for the most part and the price is right. One problem that has me stumped is if I'm driving under 40 mph and slam on the brakes everything is fine but if I'm over 40 and slam on the brakes the engine dies or stalls and I have to put in back in to park and restart. I was testing the brakes to see how well the truck stopped and found this problem. I have no idea what might cause this or how to fix it. Any ideas? Many thanks! Could be the IAC or TPS. It wouldn't hurt to disassemble and clean the throttle body. ETA: Could be that the torque converter lockup solenoid needs replaced or the brake light switch needs replaced. If memory serves, the BL switch also tells the computer to unlock the torque converter when you hit the brakes. |
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Try putting the shifter in 3rd gear and trying it again. Sounds like the torque converter may be sticking in lockup. If it does not do it, it will be trans related.
Another thing you may try is with a full tank of fuel. The fuel may be sloshing around causing the fuel pump to be uncovered by fuel causing the stall. If a full tank fixes it, sounds like the baffles in the tank are loose letting the fuel move around uncontrolled which would mean a new fuel tank. I have seen this in wrecked vehicles before. That's what I would try first. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
| Thanks guys. It was almost out of gas, it was in the red. I don't have access to it to try the 3rd gear. The transmission was very smooth and shifted well and it works in 3, 2, and OD. Every thing works on the truck and the body and paint are great as is the interior. I got the seller down to $1,400 so I'd like to buy it even if I have to put a couple thousand in it. I'm no mechanic and all I can do is basic stuff. So how does the torque converter work and is is cheap to repair? Worst case how much am I looking at to fix this problem if I pay my local mechanic to fix it? Many thanks! |
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If it's the torque converter, you'll need the whole transmission gone through, figure $3500. Did you ask the seller about it's history? $3,500? That seems really high as my local shop told me a new 350 engine would be $3,000 installed. The tranny is much less expensive then the engine. How do you figure $3,500 for the tranny unless I'm missing something? |
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Like said above, I'd try with a full tank of gas a few times first and see if the problem resolves. I seem to recall that the owner's manual for mine states that when off-roading the engine may stall on steep downhill grades because fuel will move forward in the tank.
How does it idle? Any surging? What rpm? $1,400 for a mid-90s 'burb in good shape is a pretty good price. |
| Never mind! The seller decided he wants to keep it. Looks like the price was to good to be true. Most 3/4 ton Suburbans are selling for $2,500-3,500 in this area.....oh well. At least I don't have to come up with the money to fix it up and deal with fixing the problems. |