Posted: 4/29/2015 9:47:40 AM EDT
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I'm building a walk in cooler. Its going to be temporary maybe a year or 2 at most. I'm using fiberglass batts. Not the best but I have them and they are free. I have a wall inside the room 9 1/2 inches away from
brick, concrete block. I placed R-30 batts in in there.They are paper faced I have space for R13 in between the studs.I have it but I think I would wreck the paper on it. I have to take it out from the wrong side. Should I put those in or leave the dead air space ? Over that I have a 5/8 foam board with a metallic covering that I can use a tape to make it air tight inside. It is rated R-4. Will this give me R-47 or something less ? |
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Quoted:
The cooler needs to be R24 so i'm above that all ready. Just wondering if the R 13 is good or bad to add. I have it so its free. Plus I can recover it when we move. Quoted:
The cooler needs to be R24 so i'm above that all ready. Just wondering if the R 13 is good or bad to add. I have it so its free. Plus I can recover it when we move. It can't hurt. You've already identified one primary problem in maintaining insulation effectiveness, and that's halting air movement. A lot depends also on how cool you need the interior to be. We built a new roof on a cooler in Tennessee where the internal temperature was a constant negative 40 F. We had to use something like twenty inches of Styrofoam (EPS) to do it. See this link. Today we understand that to insulate the space between the studs with fiberglass is not the same as insulating an entire wall. We must consider the wall as a system. The lumber creates thermal bridging and air infiltration within the wall, around windows and doors and at connections between the wall, the ceiling and the floor. Now we know that it is important to insulate the wall and not just the area between the framing members.
Consider though, fiberglass insulation performs well in controlled laboratory tests, how does it perform when actually installed in a home? Fiberglass is susceptible to air infiltration. When air enters a wall through a crack in the siding or near a window opening, it flows through the fiberglass, significantly reducing its ability to resist thermal flow. Moisture, also, causes fiberglass to significantly lose its insulating ability. R-value doesn't account for these problems. In an effort to create more comprehensive standards, researchers at the Building Technology Center at the Department of Energy's Oak Ridge National Laboratory in Tennessee are proposing a system for rating "Whole Wall R-value," which is the insulating value of a whole wall system. Your 5/8" foam board will have an R value around 2, maybe 2.5. Taping up the joints will make it a lot more effective. If I were you, I'd get the thickest foam board you can, and install it between the stud wall and the block wall. I'd install it in two or more layers, with each layer staggered, and all the joints taped. If you can put another layer on the inside of the stud wall, and the joints taped, it would be even better. |