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AR15.COM
4/1/2008 4:48:38 PM EDT
I have a rifle stock that has a pistol style grip.  Due to an issue with a crack developing I need to reinforce it.  My plan is to drill a hole fromt he top of the stock (just behind the reciever) and cement a reinforcing rod into place.  I want to use a JBweld type cement and either a threaded metal bolt (like a 1/2" bolt) or a  teflon/polymer rod.  My question is how much play should I allow when I drill the hole for the cement to occupy when the reinforcing element is in place?

The polymer rod I have is 0.015" under sized from the 5/8" forsner bit that I have (nearest size I have to fit the rod).

Thanks.  
4/2/2008 4:02:38 AM EDT
[#1]
B-U-M-P
4/2/2008 4:23:25 AM EDT
[#2]

Quoted:
I have a rifle stock that has a pistol style grip.  Due to an issue with a crack developing I need to reinforce it.  My plan is to drill a hole fromt he top of the stock (just behind the reciever) and cement a reinforcing rod into place.  I want to use a JBweld type cement and either a threaded metal bolt (like a 1/2" bolt) or a  teflon/polymer rod.  My question is how much play should I allow when I drill the hole for the cement to occupy when the reinforcing element is in place?

The polymer rod I have is 0.015" under sized from the 5/8" forsner bit that I have (nearest size I have to fit the rod).

Thanks.  


I would take a dremel and feathers each side of the crack (bevel) If it is a composite stock use something like acraglass from brownells.

Bob
4/2/2008 4:25:07 AM EDT
[#3]
I'm sorry, I should have specified the composition of the stock.  It is a laminate wood stock.
4/2/2008 4:26:01 AM EDT
[#4]
If it is wood, use unfilled epoxy or even better, Gorilla Glue.  Metal pins for the strength.  Unless you have Garolite (fiberglass) or unidirectional carbon.

4/2/2008 4:37:02 AM EDT
[#5]
JB Weld doesn't "flow" real easily unless it's fairly warm...  but the flipside to that is, it will cure faster... leaving you less time to fool around.

Personally, I don't think .015" is enough space to get JB Weld in to...

I would make the hole larger and fill it partially with JB Weld...  then I would push the reinforcing rod in to the hole, forcing (hydraulicing) the JB Weld back out.


Edit to add:

You have a MAK90, huh ?  (they ALL crack)
4/2/2008 5:09:29 AM EDT
[#6]
Don't use the plastic rod, it won't bond to the adhesive.

Use a hardwood dowel or a metal reinforment rod.  The reinforcment can be cut from a bolt, a piece of all thread, or a hardened piece of steel rod.  Brass is okay.

0.015 to 0.020 inches clearance on the diameter is just about perfect for a bond line thickness when bonding with epoxy, with few exceptions.
4/2/2008 5:12:35 AM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:
Don't use the plastic rod, it won't bond to the adhesive.

Use a hardwood dowel or a metal reinforment rod.  The reinforcment can be cut from a bolt, a piece of all thread, or a hardened piece of steel rod.  Brass is okay.

0.015 to 0.020 inches clearance on the diameter is just about perfect for a bond line thickness when bonding with epoxy, with few exceptions.


use a wood dowel and titebond 3