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AR15.COM
6/3/2005 1:37:25 PM EDT
I pulled up the linolium in the kitchen and will put down tile. the question is do I have to get up all the linolium bottom residue up. When I pulled up the linolium the glue pulled a very thin portion of the bottom side of the linolium. Does this all have to come up when I get ready to adhere the tile to the floor

6/3/2005 1:55:31 PM EDT
[#1]
IM sent
6/3/2005 2:08:46 PM EDT
[#2]
You're probably going to put down 1/16" to 1/4" of mortar on top of that flooring (depending on the trowel you use). If the residue from the old flooring is less than that I say don't worry.

Note: I'm NOT a professional tile layer, just a homeowner with a couple jobs under his belt.
6/3/2005 3:10:49 PM EDT
[#3]
  Yes the residue is well under 1/16th
6/3/2005 3:25:27 PM EDT
[#4]
Is the floor level, or is the residue thicker in some areas than others?

Use a dark colored grout for the kitchen, not white, and seal it per mfr instructions.

6/3/2005 3:27:58 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
  Yes the residue is well under 1/16th

Seek and remove the highest bits, the rest, if still bonded to the floor, can stay.
Make sure your mortar has a goot adhesive / bonding agent.
And how big are your tiles and how thick of a mortar bed / trowel will you be using?

/guy with a dozen mixed renovation tile jobs under his belt
6/3/2005 3:34:30 PM EDT
[#6]
   Im going to go with 12" tine but not sure about the mortor thickness or trowel,what do you suggest
6/3/2005 3:44:37 PM EDT
[#7]
I wouldn't use mortor unless you put down wonderboard first.  I'd use Mastic or a similar glue type tile bonding agent over a non concrete base like you have. IMHO
6/3/2005 3:47:03 PM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:
   Im going to go with 12" tine but not sure about the mortor thickness or trowel,what do you suggest



Depends on the subfloor. If the existing subfloor is strong enough (ie, rock solid) then you can tile right onto what you have now. If this is the case, use a notched trowel with roughly 1/4" by 1/4" notches and set the tile.

If what you have now has too much flex in it, you should put a thin layer of mortar, then cement board and let it set up. Then tile onto that. So your trowel might have 1/8" diagonal notches giving about a 1/16" thick layer.

Since you're asking so many questions, you really ought to ignore me and buy this book:





6/3/2005 3:53:39 PM EDT
[#9]
I took mine down to the concrete, but I don't want to finish a two day tile job and have the morter crack or a tile shift because I didn't get all of the glue up.

I used a long handled 8" or 10" scraping blade to remove the glue. If you soak the glue residue stuff with hot water it come up easier... and I do mean soak.

My brother in law lays tile for a living and said there is really only one way to do it right, that's the right way.
6/3/2005 10:52:11 PM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:
   Im going to go with 12" tine but not sure about the mortor thickness or trowel,what do you suggest

1/4" square-bead trowel should work fine for a smooth-bottomed ceramic tile. A 1/8" sawtooth trowel should work as well, if your really knocked down any remaining material
If you are usign a rougher tile like a cultured stone or sautillo, you'll want something much larger, like a 1/2" bead.
6/3/2005 10:56:36 PM EDT
[#11]
Hot air gun...melts the glue like butter.
6/3/2005 10:59:38 PM EDT
[#12]


The sautillo floor I put down on a concrete floor which previously had some crappy 60s asphalt-linoleum tiles. The tar residue remained. It was wiped down with solvents and a latex-adhesive(?) was added to the mortar mix, applied with a 1/2"x1/2" trowel.

The 12" ceramic tiles in the shower were applied to a a base of 5/8" ply screwed to the studs, with wonderboard screwed and bonded to it. Mastic applied with a 1/4"x1/4" trowel

The kitched was 3/4"ply, again screwed and bonded to the island framing, with another layer of wonderboard similarly attached. Mastic with a 1/8" sawtooth trowel.

Whomever tries to disassemble these projects a few decades from now is going to have a helluva hard time doing it.