Warning

 

Close
Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Cancel Confirm
AR15.COM
7/26/2017 6:37:41 PM EDT
I got my upstairs A/C working for a few weeks, then the 3 amp fuse on the control side went open. Put a new one in lasted 12 hours till it blew. Checked the control wiring to make sure connections are tight. Then replaced the thermostat and the contactor coil at the A/C unit, ran about 12 hours and blew the fuse and the 120 Volt side of the transformer went open. The transformer was new had 4 of the burn out on the 120 Volt side. I have the transformer, wired directly into to the XFER and common on the control board as per the schematic.

Anyone have any idea where to look for the problem? I would like to get one more summer out of the unit.

It's a Rheem Criterion gas heater with a Rheem A/C unit. I never really need heat upstairs just some way to run the A/C

I watched some YouTube videos, and the ones on testing transformers say the a failure on the primary side is something going on on the 120 side.

The wiring coming into the furnace is a solid 120 volts.
7/27/2017 7:55:12 AM EDT
[#1]
The fuse is to protect from a short, most likely your tstat wire is comprised somewhere, unless you are running some type of aftermarket accessory of it like a UV light that is tied to low voltage. 
7/27/2017 4:40:15 PM EDT
[#2]
No just the 4 wires to the stat, not too hard to replace and 2 wires to the A/C unit outside. It's a bit more work. I would bet it's the 2 wires to the A/C since it is longer and goes over the garage.
7/27/2017 6:59:18 PM EDT
[#3]
id look at where the wires penetrate the condenser and the house, and look where the go into the tstat.  any spot that is obvious for rubbing.  usually straight runs are fine, but when they bend, and go into a unit they can chafe or rubout from vibrations, or where the bend and go into the house it could actually wear through.  look at the easy and obvious spots.

the transformer
you tstat could be on the fritz
your contactor coil could be on the fritz
or the relay for the blower motor in the air handler

but id look for rubouts first.
7/27/2017 8:40:57 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote History
Quoted:
id look at where the wires penetrate the condenser and the house, and look where the go into the tstat.  any spot that is obvious for rubbing.  usually straight runs are fine, but when they bend, and go into a unit they can chafe or rubout from vibrations, or where the bend and go into the house it could actually wear through.  look at the easy and obvious spots.

the transformer
you tstat could be on the fritz
your contactor coil could be on the fritz
or the relay for the blower motor in the air handler

but id look for rubouts first.
View Quote
I have a new transformer and replaced the contractor coil at the A/C. I got both for under $30. I had a rat in the attic, I keep traps up in it. I have a feeling a rat chewed on the wiring. At least the wiring is cheap, it is just pulling wire through the attic down to the A/C unit when the attic is about 120 degrees.
7/28/2017 7:36:10 AM EDT
[#5]
If there is a easy way to run the wire without getting heat exhaustion run a temporary line until cooler weather. 
7/28/2017 7:41:46 AM EDT
[#6]
use at least 18-6 wire, I only run 18-8 wire on all my jobs because it's easier on the tech to switch wires instead of pulling a new wire 
7/28/2017 10:26:15 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote History
Quoted:
If there is a easy way to run the wire without getting heat exhaustion run a temporary line until cooler weather. 
View Quote
No one lives upstairs just guest rooms and my reloading room. Even when it's 100 outside it is 80 upstairs so it's liveable
7/28/2017 10:42:23 AM EDT
[#8]
You might have a extra pair of conductors in existing low voltage wiring.