Posted: 5/9/2015 5:50:12 PM EDT
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The condenser was making a strange sound, I went out to check on it and the unit was hot and the fan was not running, only the compressor was running, the backside of the motor where it mounts felt hot, even though it was not spinning/running. I only have a simple multimeter, so I can not check the capacitor, but it does not look "bulged". Is it safe to say that all I need is a new fan motor, or is it something else? I was going to order a fan motor, but now I'm not sure if that is the problem, since I can't check the capacitor. Should I order a fan motor and a capacitor and be good to go, or is there something else that it could be? I don't want to waste my time with the motor and the capacitor if that is not the issue. |
| If you are going to do your own DIY work, this would be a good time to invest in a digital multimeter. |
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U can check the cap with a standard ohmmeter. First discharge the cap with a screwdriver. With the meter on ohms check the cap, then pull the leads and reverse them on the cap. If you get a bump on the meter it pretty much tells you it good. This is crude way but it works most of the time. |
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Here is a picture of my capacitor, part number is: P/N: B94575500  " />I found this on Amazon but it isn't prime: CAPACITOR 40+5 MFD 370 VAC ROUND ONETRIP PARTS® DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR AMANA GOODMAN JANITROL OEM PART CAP050400370R
Packard TRCFD355 35+5 MFD 440/370V ROUND Capacitor
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That is a common capacitor, any HVAC parts store should be able to sell you a replacement for $5 ~ $10. Take a picture of the top connections, remove and take it with you to get a replacement.
If they have different grades (prices) get the more expensive part. The last couple of Chinese caps I put in my HVAC only lasted a couple of years before dying. |
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14 year old unit Goodman model: CPKJ36-1AB Quoted:
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Age and make ? Goodman model: CPKJ36-1AB Get est..ffor new unit. At this age u are throwing good $$ after bad. Get a 16 SEER, cut your bill by 25 % and be hapPy. Invest savings into new duct work |
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Get est..ffor new unit. At this age u are throwing good $$ after bad. Get a 16 SEER, cut your bill by 25 % and be hapPy. Invest savings into new duct work Quoted:
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Age and make ? Goodman model: CPKJ36-1AB Get est..ffor new unit. At this age u are throwing good $$ after bad. Get a 16 SEER, cut your bill by 25 % and be hapPy. Invest savings into new duct work You must be in the sales department. 
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100% sure it's the contactor switch, if the contacts are pitted and black, thats your problem.
For a temp fix you can shut the power off then sand or file the contacts and it will usually work for a short period. If you have an unused side of contacts, just switch the wires over and send me $100.00. 
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100% sure it's the contactor switch, if the contacts are pitted and black, thats your problem. For a temp fix you can shut the power off then sand or file the contacts and it will usually work for a short period. If you have an unused side of contacts, just switch the wires over and send me $100.00. Most small condenser units run the fan and compressor off the same contactor. OP's compressor is running. (or at least trying to). The contactor is probably fine. |
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Is that listed on the motor, or do I need a clamp on amp meter? Quoted:
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What's your amp draw on the fan motor? If you wanted to check it, you'd have to have an amp clamp and compare the reading versus what is listed on the motor plate. Honestly you could probably figure this all out with just doing resistance checks with the power off. (and all wires disconnected) Run cap - infinite resistance or shorted = bad capacitor (you have to hold the ohmmeter leads on the capacitor terminals for several seconds to be sure) Fan windings shorted to ground or a dead short to each other (2 ohm or less usually - but with some motors this is a normal resistance) ; or windings with infinite resistance to each other = bad fan motor. |
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Get est..ffor new unit. At this age u are throwing good $$ after bad. Get a 16 SEER, cut your bill by 25 % and be hapPy. Invest savings into new duct work Quoted:
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Age and make ? Goodman model: CPKJ36-1AB Get est..ffor new unit. At this age u are throwing good $$ after bad. Get a 16 SEER, cut your bill by 25 % and be hapPy. Invest savings into new duct work Awesome idea! Why spend $200 when you can blow a few grand on needless upgrades 
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Awesome idea! Why spend $200 when you can blow a few grand on needless upgrades Quoted:
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Age and make ? Goodman model: CPKJ36-1AB Get est..ffor new unit. At this age u are throwing good $$ after bad. Get a 16 SEER, cut your bill by 25 % and be hapPy. Invest savings into new duct work Awesome idea! Why spend $200 when you can blow a few grand on needless upgrades Crunch the numbers. Some places it wont pay but if your electric bill is high it may actually be a savings. |
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I have the motor pulled out. Which wires do I check?I have a brown wire, that went to the capacitor, A blk wire, that went to the the contactor And the purple wire, that went to the DF2 on the board. So you've got a heat pump then? Check the fan motor resistance from Purple to Black, and Brown to Black (and then each to ground). One thing that I am wondering, when everything is wired back up and powered on....do you lose voltage between contacts DF1 and DF2? If so, I think that would mean your unit thinks it's in defrost mode. I wouldn't make any impulsive buys or repairs until you get a knowledgeable guy to take a look at it. |
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Quoted: So you've got a heat pump then? Check the fan motor resistance from Purple to Black, and Brown to Black (and then each to ground). One thing that I am wondering, when everything is wired back up and powered on....do you lose voltage between contacts DF1 and DF2? If so, I think that would mean your unit thinks it's in defrost mode. I wouldn't make any impulsive buys or repairs until you get a knowledgeable guy to take a look at it. Quoted: Quoted: I have the motor pulled out. Which wires do I check?I have a brown wire, that went to the capacitor, A blk wire, that went to the the contactor And the purple wire, that went to the DF2 on the board. So you've got a heat pump then? Check the fan motor resistance from Purple to Black, and Brown to Black (and then each to ground). One thing that I am wondering, when everything is wired back up and powered on....do you lose voltage between contacts DF1 and DF2? If so, I think that would mean your unit thinks it's in defrost mode. I wouldn't make any impulsive buys or repairs until you get a knowledgeable guy to take a look at it. Brn to blk is 53.9 |
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They have a Grainger Industrial Supply in Asheville, Hickory, Gastonia, Greensboro, Fayetteville, Raleigh, Willmington, Greenville, Greensboro and Charlotte. Any of them near you? All should be walk in. All should have that cap and probably a replacement motor.
Capacitor |
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Prpl to blk is 49.6 (with selector at 200 on ohm switch) Brn to blk is 53.9 Resistance is a bit higher than I expected, but I doubt the motor is bad. Both windings are reading within 5 ohms of each other. Out of curiousity, are you using a good quality meter? |
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Earlier I checked the continuity on the board between DF1 and DF2 and it had continuity with DF1 wire removed. That circuit is normally closed. (I looked at a generic Goodman heat pump wiring diagram). That means if the circuit board's relay energizes, it will break the connection between those two contacts. You have to do a voltage point-to-ground check at each terminal when the power is on and unit is running. |
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100% sure it's the contactor switch, if the contacts are pitted and black, thats your problem. For a temp fix you can shut the power off then sand or file the contacts and it will usually work for a short period. If you have an unused side of contacts, just switch the wires over and send me $100.00. If the contractor was bad nothing would be running. Most likely a bad fan motor. That capacitor is for the compressor. |
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You must be in the sales department. Quoted:
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Age and make ? Goodman model: CPKJ36-1AB Get est..ffor new unit. At this age u are throwing good $$ after bad. Get a 16 SEER, cut your bill by 25 % and be hapPy. Invest savings into new duct work You must be in the sales department. No shit, especially if it may only be a capacitor. |
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We have a Grainger, both my wife and I can use our employers accounts to shop there. If I can figure out if the motor is bad before I get the new capacitor, I will bring the motor to them on Monday and see what they can order for me.
I have a capacitor coming from Amazon that will be here on Monday. I just don't want to drag this out any longer than I have to, it is supposed to be in the 80's next week. |
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Quoted: That circuit is normally closed. (I looked at a generic Goodman heat pump wiring diagram). That means if the circuit board's relay energizes, it will break the connection between those two contacts. You have to do a voltage point-to-ground check at each terminal when the power is on and unit is running. Quoted: Quoted: Earlier I checked the continuity on the board between DF1 and DF2 and it had continuity with DF1 wire removed. That circuit is normally closed. (I looked at a generic Goodman heat pump wiring diagram). That means if the circuit board's relay energizes, it will break the connection between those two contacts. You have to do a voltage point-to-ground check at each terminal when the power is on and unit is running. I have the motor inside the house. Can I jump the wires from DF1 and DF2 tomorrow when I get a chance, will that tell me anything, should the motor come on? |
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It's raining outside now and I don't want to put my pop up canopy up to work in the rain.I have the motor inside the house. Can I jump the wires from DF1 and DF2 tomorrow when I get a chance, will that tell me anything, should the motor come on? Just leave the motor out, and re-install the original wire back on DF1. Then, with the unit running, do a voltage point-to-ground check on both DF1 and DF2 and see if they are reading the same voltage. You could also just carefully leave the wire off DF1 (the diagram I looked at showed the wire coming directly off the contactor - so it would be hot), and check continuity between DF1 and DF2 when the unit is running. If the circuit is open - then the defrost relay is engaged - and you are much further ahead in your troubleshooting then you were earlier this evening. |
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Quoted: Just leave the motor out, and re-install the original wire back on DF1. Then, with the unit running, do a voltage point-to-ground check on both DF1 and DF2 and see if they are reading the same voltage. You could also just carefully leave the wire off DF1 (the diagram I looked at showed the wire coming directly off the contactor - so it would be hot), and check continuity between DF1 and DF2 when the unit is running. If the circuit is open - then you are much further ahead in your troubleshooting then you were earlier this evening. Quoted: Quoted: It's raining outside now and I don't want to put my pop up canopy up to work in the rain.I have the motor inside the house. Can I jump the wires from DF1 and DF2 tomorrow when I get a chance, will that tell me anything, should the motor come on? Just leave the motor out, and re-install the original wire back on DF1. Then, with the unit running, do a voltage point-to-ground check on both DF1 and DF2 and see if they are reading the same voltage. You could also just carefully leave the wire off DF1 (the diagram I looked at showed the wire coming directly off the contactor - so it would be hot), and check continuity between DF1 and DF2 when the unit is running. If the circuit is open - then you are much further ahead in your troubleshooting then you were earlier this evening. |