Posted: 12/3/2013 4:06:15 PM EDT
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Panel looks pretty clean on the install. Helpful hint: Leave enough wire to loop down to the bottom of the panel, then back up to the breaker. It makes it easier for whoever might have to move circuits/breakers around in the future. I don't know the answer to your question. Will it fit all the way to left where the neutral attaches? |
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Panel looks pretty clean on the install. Helpful hint: Leave enough wire to loop down to the bottom of the panel, then back up to the breaker. It makes it easier for whoever might have to move circuits/breakers around in the future. Good tip. I'll remember that one. I don't know the answer to your question. Will it fit all the way to left where the neutral attaches? No. I cut it to fit on the right side. ![]() |
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If the piece of equipment you are powering up utilizes both 240 and 120 (for example an electric range that has a clock/timer) it does require a neutral. We need more information in order to help you further..
(electrician for 10 years specializing in telecom) YMMV |
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If the piece of equipment you are powering up utilizes both 240 and 120 (for example an electric range that has a clock/timer) it does require a neutral. We need more information in order to help you further.. (electrician for 10 years specializing in telecom) YMMV I'm planning for the future when I have the money for a Miller welder
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Quoted: I'm planning for the future when I have the money for a Miller welder ![]() Quoted: Quoted: If the piece of equipment you are powering up utilizes both 240 and 120 (for example an electric range that has a clock/timer) it does require a neutral. We need more information in order to help you further.. (electrician for 10 years specializing in telecom) YMMV I'm planning for the future when I have the money for a Miller welder ![]() |
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Quoted: Really? The plug has four screws, one for ground, one for white, two for hot. I guess I'm confused as to how it would not have a neutral. Quoted: Quoted: no neutral in 240v just a 2 pole breaker Really? The plug has four screws, one for ground, one for white, two for hot. I guess I'm confused as to how it would not have a neutral. |
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If the piece of equipment you are powering up utilizes both 240 and 120 (for example an electric range that has a clock/timer) it does require a neutral. We need more information in order to help you further.. (electrician for 10 years specializing in telecom) YMMV I assumed that is what he is doing....I may be mistaken. |
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I thought one of the NEC changes a few years back said you must have grounds and neutrals separated. Quoted:
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I usually try to keep all of my neutrals on one bar and all of the grounds on another, but really it doesn't matter. I thought one of the NEC changes a few years back said you must have grounds and neutrals separated. On a subpanel the grounds and neutrals are seperate but not on the main panel. |
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Number 1, number 2, or the bar to the left of the mains that is currently empty for the neutral. The ground to the ground bar. Quoted:
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Okay, so I guess I'm still confused as to which neutral bus to hook to. Number 1, number 2, or the bar to the left of the mains that is currently empty for the neutral. The ground to the ground bar. Thank you! |
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Just stop posting if you aren't familiar with electric (which you aren't). Quoted:
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im not 100 percent sure where you are getting your neutral wire but as far as which bus, all 4 are electrically connected Just stop posting if you aren't familiar with electric (which you aren't). I am familiar with electric just I usually work on 208v commercial and there is no neutral conductor just your 2 hots and a ground |
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According to the NEC grounds and neutrals are to remain separate. the only place where the neutral and ground are supposed to be bonded is at the first point of disconnect after the meter unless it is a separately derived service. In reality having the neutral and ground will cause no issues in a residential setting. In settings with sensitive electronics having the neutral and grounds tied together can cause EMI, RFI, and calibration issues since some equipment uses the ground as a point of reference for calibration.
If you are simply hooking up a welder you can get away with a 3 pole 3 wire outlet or a 3 pole 4 wire outlet (Recommended) if you want to run a ground.. If the Welder you are using doesn't require a neutral when you put the plug on the cord simply make sure that you have it wired/configured properly. |
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According to the NEC grounds and neutrals are to remain separate. the only place where the neutral and ground are supposed to be bonded is at the first point of disconnect after the meter unless it is a separately derived service. In reality having the neutral and ground will cause no issues in a residential setting. In settings with sensitive electronics having the neutral and grounds tied together can cause EMI, RFI, and calibration issues since some equipment uses the ground as a point of reference for calibration. If you are simply hooking up a welder you can get away with a 3 pole 3 wire outlet or a 3 pole 4 wire outlet (Recommended) if you want to run a ground.. If the Welder you are using doesn't require a neutral when you put the plug on the cord simply make sure that you have it wired/configured properly. Okay, thanks. Looks like I need to get a different outlet. |

