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AR15.COM
12/3/2013 4:06:15 PM EDT
Okay I'm trying to add some circuits to the garage before I finish it. My question is where to hook up the neutral for a 50 amp 240 volt into the sub-panel. There are two buses that can be used (see photo).   The #1 bus looks a bit beefier than #2.  Nothing is wired to #1 but everything else in the garage is 120v.  I'm wondering if #2 is for 30 amp and under and #1 is for 50 amp and up. Oh, this is a Square D sub-panel, if that matters.  Any help on how to avoid burning my place down would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

12/3/2013 4:11:54 PM EDT
[#1]
If the wire will fit into #1, you should be good to go.
12/3/2013 4:13:17 PM EDT
[#2]
It is 6 gauge wire and will fit into either.
12/3/2013 4:16:09 PM EDT
[#3]
Panel looks pretty clean on the install.


Helpful hint: Leave enough wire to loop down to the bottom of the panel, then back up to the breaker. It makes it easier for whoever might have to move circuits/breakers around in the future.


I don't know the answer to your question.

Will it fit all the way to left where the neutral attaches?

12/3/2013 4:16:28 PM EDT
[#4]
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It is 6 gauge wire and will fit into either.
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This is the answer.
12/3/2013 4:19:16 PM EDT
[#5]
no neutral in 240v just a 2 pole breaker
12/3/2013 4:21:32 PM EDT
[#6]
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no neutral in 240v just a 2 pole breaker
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Beat me to it.  This is the correct answer.
12/3/2013 4:22:08 PM EDT
[#7]
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Panel looks pretty clean on the install.
Helpful hint: Leave enough wire to loop down to the bottom of the panel, then back up to the breaker. It makes it easier for whoever might have to move circuits/breakers around in the future. Good tip.  I'll remember that one.
I don't know the answer to your question.
Will it fit all the way to left where the neutral attaches?
No. I cut it to fit on the right side.  
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12/3/2013 4:25:14 PM EDT
[#8]
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no neutral in 240v just a 2 pole breaker
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Really?  The plug has four screws,  one for ground, one for white, two for hot. I guess I'm confused as to how it would not have a neutral.
12/3/2013 4:28:02 PM EDT
[#9]
If the piece of equipment you are powering up utilizes both 240 and 120 (for example an electric range that has a clock/timer) it does require a neutral. We need more information in order to help you further..

(electrician for 10 years specializing in telecom) YMMV
12/3/2013 4:29:16 PM EDT
[#10]
I dont know why you would have 4 terminal screws because one hot leg goes in and the other hot leg acts as a neutral going out and they both come from a 2 pole breaker. The third screw would be for a ground conductor.
12/3/2013 4:29:47 PM EDT
[#11]
double tap
12/3/2013 4:31:30 PM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:
If the piece of equipment you are powering up utilizes both 240 and 120 (for example an electric range that has a clock/timer) it does require a neutral. We need more information in order to help you further..

(electrician for 10 years specializing in telecom) YMMV
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I'm planning for the future when I have the money for a Miller welder
12/3/2013 4:34:45 PM EDT
[#13]

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I'm planning for the future when I have the money for a Miller welder
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Quoted:



Quoted:

If the piece of equipment you are powering up utilizes both 240 and 120 (for example an electric range that has a clock/timer) it does require a neutral. We need more information in order to help you further..



(electrician for 10 years specializing in telecom) YMMV




I'm planning for the future when I have the money for a Miller welder
Good man!



 
12/3/2013 4:35:02 PM EDT
[#14]

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Really?  The plug has four screws,  one for ground, one for white, two for hot. I guess I'm confused as to how it would not have a neutral.
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Quoted:

no neutral in 240v just a 2 pole breaker




Really?  The plug has four screws,  one for ground, one for white, two for hot. I guess I'm confused as to how it would not have a neutral.



I am guessing that is for a range. It needs the two hot legs (no neutral) for the 240V part of the range and one hot leg with the neutral to provide 120V.  The ground is just a safety measure and is essentially the same as the neutral. I usually try to keep all of my neutrals on one bar and all of the grounds on another, but really it doesn't matter.

 


12/3/2013 4:35:30 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote History
Quoted:
If the piece of equipment you are powering up utilizes both 240 and 120 (for example an electric range that has a clock/timer) it does require a neutral. We need more information in order to help you further..

(electrician for 10 years specializing in telecom) YMMV
View Quote



I assumed that is what he is doing....I may be mistaken.
12/3/2013 4:36:25 PM EDT
[#16]

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I usually try to keep all of my neutrals on one bar and all of the grounds on another, but really it doesn't matter.    


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I thought one of the NEC changes a few years back said you must have grounds and neutrals separated.





 
12/3/2013 4:38:34 PM EDT
[#17]
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I thought one of the NEC changes a few years back said you must have grounds and neutrals separated.

 
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Quoted:

I usually try to keep all of my neutrals on one bar and all of the grounds on another, but really it doesn't matter.    

I thought one of the NEC changes a few years back said you must have grounds and neutrals separated.

 

On a subpanel the grounds and neutrals are seperate but not on the main panel.
12/3/2013 4:38:53 PM EDT
[#18]
To add a sub you will need  3 conductors plus a ground. 2 hots go on the new breaker in your current panel. The white to number1 plus a ground. Once in the sub you will split the ground and neutral..
12/3/2013 4:40:27 PM EDT
[#19]
Okay, so I guess I'm still confused as to which neutral bus to hook to.
12/3/2013 4:48:00 PM EDT
[#20]
im not 100 percent sure where you are getting your neutral wire but as far as which bus, all 4 are electrically connected
12/3/2013 4:50:12 PM EDT
[#21]
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Okay, so I guess I'm still confused as to which neutral bus to hook to.
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Number 1, number 2, or the bar to the left of the mains that is currently empty for the neutral.  Any of those three is the correct answer. The ground to the ground bar.
12/3/2013 4:50:55 PM EDT
[#22]
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im not 100 percent sure where you are getting your neutral wire but as far as which bus, all 4 are electrically connected
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Just stop posting if you aren't familiar with electric (which you aren't).
12/3/2013 4:53:47 PM EDT
[#23]
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Number 1, number 2, or the bar to the left of the mains that is currently empty for the neutral.  The ground to the ground bar.
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Okay, so I guess I'm still confused as to which neutral bus to hook to.


Number 1, number 2, or the bar to the left of the mains that is currently empty for the neutral.  The ground to the ground bar.


Thank you!
12/3/2013 4:54:11 PM EDT
[#24]
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Just stop posting if you aren't familiar with electric (which you aren't).
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Quoted:
im not 100 percent sure where you are getting your neutral wire but as far as which bus, all 4 are electrically connected


Just stop posting if you aren't familiar with electric (which you aren't).


I am familiar with electric just I usually work on  208v commercial and there is no neutral conductor just your 2 hots and a ground
12/3/2013 5:01:44 PM EDT
[#25]
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no neutral in 240v just a 2 pole breaker
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Glad I got beat to this post.
12/3/2013 5:04:39 PM EDT
[#26]
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no neutral in 240v just a 2 pole breaker
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you should probably read the current version of the NEC.

ar-jedi
12/3/2013 5:07:40 PM EDT
[#27]
Also, any electrician that is worth a shit will not put neutrals and grounds on the same bar, no matter if it's a bonded panel or not.  It's just plain tacky and piss poor workmanship.
12/3/2013 5:55:29 PM EDT
[#28]
According to the NEC grounds and neutrals are to remain separate. the only place where the neutral and ground are supposed to be bonded is at the first point of disconnect after the meter unless it is a separately derived service. In reality having the neutral and ground will cause no issues in a residential setting. In settings with sensitive electronics having the neutral and grounds tied together can cause EMI, RFI, and calibration issues since some equipment uses the ground as a point of reference for calibration.

If you are simply hooking up a welder you can get away with a 3 pole 3 wire outlet or a 3 pole 4 wire outlet (Recommended) if you want to run a ground.. If the Welder you are using doesn't require a neutral when you put the plug on the cord simply make sure that you have it wired/configured properly.
12/3/2013 5:56:05 PM EDT
[#29]
*Double Tap*
12/3/2013 5:59:14 PM EDT
[#30]
Sorry also you can connect your neutral to any of the 4 buss bars as they are tied together. I personally like to keep wires hooked to the same side of the box that I make entry for that circuit on. Also #6 is plenty for 50 amps..
12/3/2013 6:14:22 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote History
Quoted:
According to the NEC grounds and neutrals are to remain separate. the only place where the neutral and ground are supposed to be bonded is at the first point of disconnect after the meter unless it is a separately derived service. In reality having the neutral and ground will cause no issues in a residential setting. In settings with sensitive electronics having the neutral and grounds tied together can cause EMI, RFI, and calibration issues since some equipment uses the ground as a point of reference for calibration.

If you are simply hooking up a welder you can get away with a 3 pole 3 wire outlet or a 3 pole 4 wire outlet (Recommended) if you want to run a ground.. If the Welder you are using doesn't require a neutral when you put the plug on the cord simply make sure that you have it wired/configured properly.
View Quote



Okay, thanks. Looks like I need to get a different outlet.