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Quoted: honestly, I have no idea, all it says is 357 CTG Highway Patrolman and made in USA Marcus Registradas Smith&Wesson Springfield Mass. What do you mean by 5 screw, sorry but I am more of a 1911 guy. View Quote Swing the cylinder open, there should be a number underneath the crane on the frame. It could have 4 screws on the right side of the frame and may have 1 under the trigger guard, and a number on the frame above where the cylinder swing out. That how you determine date and value. 5 pins were made prior to 61. |
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Quoted: Swing the cylinder open, there should be a number underneath the crane on the frame. It could have 4 screws on the right side of the frame and may have 1 under the trigger guard, and a number on the frame above where the cylinder swing out. That how you determine date and value. 5 pins were made prior to 61. View Quote sorry, had to go and dig it out of the safe. looks like it has S293999 but the 3 could be an 8 and has what looks like MnC. 22-2 and then below that has 58462 and a U J I took the grip off and only see 3 screws on the right side other than the one on the adjustable sights, and one under trigger guard that goes to like a spring or flat piece of metal |
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Quoted: sorry, had to go and dig it out of the safe. looks like it has S293999but the 3 could be an 8 and has what looks like MnC. 22-2 and then below that has 58462 and a U J I took the grip off and only see 3 screws on the right side other than the one on the adjustable sights, and one under trigger guard that goes to like a spring or flat piece of metal View Quote Post pics when you can. Might be an early one. With a diet of 38 you'll pass it down to your kids kids kids. If you Jerry Michulek it in double action they can get timing issues due to the mass of the cylinder rotating fast. I say take it out and shoot it, you may fall in love. Your dad or someone did as it has a turn ring and holster wear on the barrel. Either way great gun, with a cool history. |
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If I ever come across a round butt 3" K or L frame I'll buy it. All mine are square butt.
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thank you for the info, I will try and get some pics tomorrow, it was originally owned by my dad's best friend that I called uncle as a kid and his parents were grandma and grandpa they were that close and he was killed in a rollover accident and his parents gave it to my dad as a memento of the friendship they had. that's why it's a safe queen, but yeah I should shoot it and yes plans are one of my kids get it when I go. Oh and I have the holster and it was carried daily by my uncle.
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Quoted: thank you for the info, I will try and get some pics tomorrow, it was originally owned by my dad's best friend that I called uncle as a kid and his parents were grandma and grandpa they were that close and he was killed in a rollover accident and his parents gave it to my dad as a memento of the friendship they had. that's why it's a safe queen, but yeah I should shoot it and yes plans are one of my kids get it when I go. View Quote This will help. If it like this I'd say 1050 to $1250. 5 screw If it is, its an early model. |
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ok, it's only got three screws, nothing on the trigger guard just one on the grip area, and thanks for the approximate value, it will never be sold by me but who knows what my kids will do, lol
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Quoted: ok, it's only got three screws, nothing on the trigger guard just one on the grip area. so it looks to be an older model, and thanks for the approximate value, it will never be sold by me but who knows what my kids will do, lol View Quote Take it out and shoot it. Think of your dad when you do. |
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yeah, I think I just might do that, I reload 38 and 357 for my GP100. it's just the sentimental reasons I don't shoot it but you're right my dad would probably want me to enjoy it.
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Quoted: sorry, had to go and dig it out of the safe. looks like it has S293999 but the 3 could be an 8 and has what looks like MnC. 22-2 and then below that has 58462 and a U J I took the grip off and only see 3 screws on the right side other than the one on the adjustable sights, and one under trigger guard that goes to like a spring or flat piece of metal View Quote It's clearly a 3 screw, so don't fret about figuring that out. If it was a 4 screw there would be another screw at the top of the sideplate (clearly not there); if it were a 5 screw it'd have those 4, and then another one going through the top of the trigger guard into the gun. Are you sure it says 22-2 and not 28-2? The 22 was also an N frame but it had a different configuration and fired 45ACP via moon clips...your photos don't show a 22, hence why I'm asking... The serial number of record would be located on the bottom flat of the frame where the grips go over it. That "S" number might be the serial, might not - I don't remember when S&W went to marking the serial under the yoke as well as there, but the numbers/letters on the bottom of the grip frame are the official location of them. It'd also say on the box...however if that is the serial number, S29x,xxx would be late 67 or early 1968 manufacture. 28-2s were made from 1961 to 1982 or so. I don't know what you mean by "MnC"? The 58462 and U J markings are internal lot/box/manufacturing codes and not really important for dating it. Edit - the last 5 or so years have seen old N frame prices go kind of nuts. They (Model 28s) used to be $3-$500 guns all day long...Smith made a metric fuckton of them and a lot of them found their way into duty holsters, so they got beaten up. But, in the last few years, good condition ones have had their prices nearly double. If you don't have the box, I'd say maybe $650-$750, maybe 800 to someone who just must have one? My LGS has one in better condition than yours (grips are better, not beat up/wore, blueing is in nicer condition) for $799 and I bet I could haggle them down some on it. They had one in a few weeks ago for $599 and someone beat me to it Some local markets may be different of course...28-2s are pretty common. 28-1s are very rare. 28-3s from 1982-onwards to the end of their run un 1986 lost the pin/recessed barrel/cylinder and some of the other "classic" cues, so they're not in as much demand... |
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Quoted: yeah, I think I just might do that, I reload 38 and 357 for my GP100. it's just the sentimental reasons I don't shoot it but you're right my dad would probably want me to enjoy it. View Quote I'm sure he would. Now I'm shopping for 16ga shell to take my dad's browning on a dove hunt. Enjoy. |
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Quoted: It's clearly a 3 screw, so don't fret about figuring that out. If it was a 4 screw there would be another screw at the top of the sideplate (clearly not there); if it were a 5 screw it'd have those 4, and then another one going through the top of the trigger guard into the gun. Are you sure it says 22-2 and not 28-2? The 22 was also an N frame but it had a different configuration and fired 45ACP via moon clips...your photos don't show a 22, hence why I'm asking... The serial number of record would be located on the bottom flat of the frame where the grips go over it. That "S" number might be the serial, might not - I don't remember when S&W went to marking the serial under the yoke as well as there, but the numbers/letters on the bottom of the grip frame are the official location of them. It'd also say on the box...however if that is the serial number, S29x,xxx would be late 67 or early 1968 manufacture. 28-2s were made from 1961 to 1982 or so. I don't know what you mean by "MnC"? The 58462 and U J markings are internal lot/box/manufacturing codes and not really important for dating it. Edit - the last 5 or so years have seen old N frame prices go kind of nuts. They (Model 28s) used to be $3-$500 guns all day long...Smith made a metric fuckton of them and a lot of them found their way into duty holsters, so they got beaten up. But, in the last few years, good condition ones have had their prices nearly double. If you don't have the box, I'd say maybe $650-$750, maybe 800 to someone who just must have one? My LGS has one in better condition than yours (grips are better, not beat up/wore, blueing is in nicer condition) for $799 and I bet I could haggle them down some on it. They had one in a few weeks ago for $599 and someone beat me to it Some local markets may be different of course...28-2s are pretty common. 28-1s are very rare. 28-3s from 1982-onwards to the end of their run un 1986 lost the pin/recessed barrel/cylinder and some of the other "classic" cues, so they're not in as much demand... View Quote ED is right after looking at gunbroker.com they are some of the less expensive smiths. I may grab one. Either way its a great heavy built gun. Shoot and enjoy it. |
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Quoted: My m19 https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/433221/IMG_20211009_140459_2_jpg-3314469.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/433221/IMG_20211102_180720_2_jpg-3314472.JPG https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpXYPZzBgxs View Quote My model 10 has that same metal tag. Great shooter. |
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What mount and sight is that? Is it bolt on or is there some milling involved? |
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Quoted: how about a 4'' Highway Patrolman, I got this when my dad passed back in 2010 and have never shot it. he got it back in the early '70s or late '60s I think and if anyone knows any info on these and wants to share I would appreciate it, I don't know anything about revolvers but would like to know the value or model, etc. it is never going to be for sale I just don't know Squat about it. https://i.imgur.com/9eVkuwA.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ixHsvaA.jpg View Quote That's a nice one. Probably a model 28-2, with Target grips. |
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.357s are kind of brutal and unpleasant in the airweight guns but I guess there is a narrow use.
I own various K ,L and N frames along with a couple of leverguns and I enjoy them all. I find with a 357 firearm it is the versatility and ability to use anything from the lightest 38 target load to a full power 357 loading that makes it so useful and fun. As the OP noted the grips have a lot to do with the "look" but how the various grips work have a lot to do with hand size , strength and type of shooting. I own and prefer the no lock models but I don't exactly shy away from the lock dumbness if that is all I find available . I would advise someone who is jumping into the revolver game to find the gun with model , finish and a price in their range and not get themselves all wound up over that tiny hole , stupid as it might be . |
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Quoted: It's clearly a 3 screw, so don't fret about figuring that out. If it was a 4 screw there would be another screw at the top of the sideplate (clearly not there); if it were a 5 screw it'd have those 4, and then another one going through the top of the trigger guard into the gun. View Quote @Evil_Ed You have the difference between a 5-screw and a 4-screw backwards. A five screw S&W will have 4 on the sideplate and a fifth on the triggerguard. A four screw will have three on the sideplate and a fourth on the triggerguard, having done away with the screw at the top of the sideplate closest to the rear sight. A three screw will only have three on the sideplate, having also done away with the one on the front of the triggerguard. |
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Quoted: @Evil_Ed You have the difference between a 5-screw and a 4-screw backwards. A five screw S&W will have 4 on the sideplate and a fifth on the triggerguard. A four screw will have three on the sideplate and a fourth on the triggerguard, having done away with the screw at the top of the sideplate closest to the rear sight. A three screw will only have three on the sideplate, having also done away with the one on the front of the triggerguard. View Quote @SiVisPacem Ah I stand corrected then, I don't have a 4 screw, only 5s and 3s, and thought they deleted the trigger guard screw before they deleted the top screw. |
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Quoted: @SiVisPacem Ah I stand corrected then, I don't have a 4 screw, only 5s and 3s, and thought they deleted the trigger guard screw before they deleted the top screw. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: @Evil_Ed You have the difference between a 5-screw and a 4-screw backwards. A five screw S&W will have 4 on the sideplate and a fifth on the triggerguard. A four screw will have three on the sideplate and a fourth on the triggerguard, having done away with the screw at the top of the sideplate closest to the rear sight. A three screw will only have three on the sideplate, having also done away with the one on the front of the triggerguard. @SiVisPacem Ah I stand corrected then, I don't have a 4 screw, only 5s and 3s, and thought they deleted the trigger guard screw before they deleted the top screw. No worries. There's been so many changes to S&W revolvers over the years that I'd be amazed if any one person could remember them all. But it sounds like you need a 4-screw in your collection. My 6" Model 28 Highway Patrolman pictured above is one of my several 4-screw guns. |
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I'm jealous--I love Bisleys! |
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Quoted: I have its 686 cousin in 6” version here they are back to back obviously 586 is carbon steel and 686 is stainless https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/134638/3B4FE603-2F6B-4979-8F67-9A4158088AF1_jpe-3314399.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: 586 in nickel pre lock with proper goncalo grips is hard to beat https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/134638/805808BB-593D-48FB-8219-1AC728CD70CE_jpe-3314391.JPG That's a beautiful revolver. I've got a 686 no dash and would love a 586 in nickel or blue. Looking hard for a 3". Those grips really make the gun. Some of my favorites. I have its 686 cousin in 6” version here they are back to back obviously 586 is carbon steel and 686 is stainless https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/134638/3B4FE603-2F6B-4979-8F67-9A4158088AF1_jpe-3314399.JPG Attached File The 10, 586 and 686 are pre locks. 686 is a no dash, no M. |
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Quoted: First time I've ever seen it written as "three hundred and fifty seven" TreeFiddySeven! I'm a .44 guy anyway. View Quote Maybe OP is a machinist. Three hundred and fifty seven thousandths. I like mine. Attached File |
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View Quote Ahh, I hate you! I need a snub 686-4 plus to round out my 4" and 6" seven shot 686-4 versions. @Basko00 |
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Quoted: The original, premier, S&W 357 Magnum the Model 27, high polish, pinned and recessed, circa about 1972. https://images.guns.com/prod/2021/12/06/58-MODEL%2027-2-N479726-1.jpg View Quote That’s about as good as it gets! I love my -2 version. |
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Quoted: No worries. There's been so many changes to S&W revolvers over the years that I'd be amazed if any one person could remember them all. But it sounds like you need a 4-screw in your collection. My 6" Model 28 Highway Patrolman pictured above is one of my several 4-screw guns. View Quote My dad's Model 28 (in my post above) is a 3 screw, made around 1975...I wish I had a better time frame for it; I was born in late 75 and it'd be pretty awesome if that gun was, too I have a 5 screw K22 from the thread in the Revolver subforum of course, 4" I think it is, and at least one M1917 kicking around somewhere... But, yeah, I don't have any 4 screws around. I know my local store has a couple but none of them are ones I want to spend money on, or the person who's consigned them didn't read the Blue Book, or didn't check Gunbroker bid/purchase histories, and wants $$$PRIMO$$$ money for guns that just aren't that rare or uncommon in that condition... |
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