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Posted: 6/1/2024 11:12:30 PM EDT
I messed up today, not paying attention and hit a small hill on cruise control. Rpms went to 5000, topped out the hill and heard a bit of a ticking noise, which soon turned into a whole lot of noise. Pretty sure I've blown at least one rod, maybe more (not a car guy so I've no idea what else might have happened) No big pools of oil on ground under the truck.
I'm not quite sure where to go from here. Truck is (was) in decent shape, right at 160k miles. Not fancy, but fine for my needs. Questions: what are the chances the engine can be rebuilt? Presuming I can find a mechanic around here that does rebuilds as well as figure what all is wrong. Better option to go with a reman crate engine? Recommendations for who to look to for a source and who to avoid? Option 3, part truck out go buy new truck (rather not, but if I have too that's what it is. It would be a check right out of our retirement savings account) |
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[#1]
Are you sure it didn't blow out a spark plug? That usually starts with a ticking sound than gets real loud when it comes out.
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[#2]
Quoted: Are you sure it didn't blow out a spark plug? That usually starts with a ticking sound than gets real loud when it comes out. View Quote No, I guess I'm not sure. I'll have to take a look, but it was clattering something awful when I turned it off. I had all plugs replaced about 25k ago. They had to pull one of the heads and machine them out since the were pretty much welded in. They were the original 2 piece plug design that was prone to breaking off when they were removed. |
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[#3]
I messed up today, not paying attention and hit a small hill on cruise control. Rpms went to 5000 View Quote '06 V10 should be the 3v head, they typically like to break spark plugs instead of launching them (common with the 2v). Given that the plugs were replaced within the last few years/25k miles, they are likely the newer style that aren't prone to breakage. Did the truck ever throw a code? Any noise from the engine prior to this? As far as repair options, it really depends on exactly what happened. Rebuilds can go from relatively simple to needing an entire short block (with crank, etc) so its impossible to say. |
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[#4]
I don’t see simply hitting a kind of high rpm blowing an engine but I could be wrong. It’s going to take some diagnosing to figure out the problem.
Trouble codes? Still running? |
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[#5]
Can't help with what should be done to remedy going forward, but, the V10s are a bit notorious for drinking oil, perhaps the engine was simply very low on oil. Perhaps you can find a RV that has a V10 for swap. Good luck!
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[#6]
Quoted: I don’t see simply hitting a kind of high rpm blowing an engine but I could be wrong. It’s going to take some diagnosing to figure out the problem. Trouble codes? Still running? View Quote The odometer panel had a 'check gauges' warning flashing. I have not attempted to start it after we shut it down. I called a tow company to come get us. We were about 150 miles from home when it happened. Nice $1200 tow charge |
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[#7]
Quoted: I've read this like ten times, and I still can't quite figure out what you are describing. . '06 V10 should be the 3v head, they typically like to break spark plugs instead of launching them (common with the 2v). Given that the plugs were replaced within the last few years/25k miles, they are likely the newer style that aren't prone to breakage. Did the truck ever throw a code? Any noise from the engine prior to this? As far as repair options, it really depends on exactly what happened. Rebuilds can go from relatively simple to needing an entire short block (with crank, etc) so its impossible to say. View Quote I was returning from a fishing trip with a bed full of camping gear and a 14' Jon boat on a trailer. Boat and trailer are light, maybe 800 lbs. We were on highway 200 in rolling hill country and I had cruise control on at 70 mph ('tow' was not engaged - figured for an 800 lb trailer the truck wouldn't even know it was there). One hill was a bit longer and steeper than the others and the truck downshifted to keep up speed, eventually hit 5000 rpm and stayed there a couple of minutes until we topped out on the hill. Near the top of the hill even I (67 years old, hearing not so good) could her a tapata tapata tapata noise like a lifter that was a new sound for the truck, and it did not go away when the engine kicked back into overdrive. I turned off cruise control and slowed to 60 and it seemed to clear up a bit. Then it just started making a really load clatter like a can full of bolts being shaken. I pulled over and turned it off then called for a tow. |
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[#8]
Quoted: The odometer panel had a 'check gauges' warning flashing. I have not attempted to start it after we shut it down. I called a tow company to come get us. We were about 150 miles from home when it happened. Nice $1200 tow charge View Quote Have you hooked up a code reader? You need to. Find out what codes are stored and that will give an idea where to start. |
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[#9]
Quoted: The odometer panel had a 'check gauges' warning flashing. I have not attempted to start it after we shut it down. I called a tow company to come get us. We were about 150 miles from home when it happened. Nice $1200 tow charge View Quote “Check gauges” = oil pressure, coolant temp, or volts were out of range. Got oil on the dipstick? Maybe drain the oil into a clean container with a piece of window screen over it and look for metal chunks or silver swirls in the oil. |
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[#11]
Oil on dipstick is in range, maybe a 1/4 qt low. I wiped it with my fingers and had one metal flake in it that I noticed. Re-dipping and looking again didn't show any metal. Probably settled out by now.
I may have a mechanic lined up that is going to come look at it in a couple days. I was was thinking about draining the oil but I decided I don't want to do anything that makes his job any harder. I'll ask him before he comes over if he wants me to drain it, or if he wants me to leave it alone so he can turn it over and hear it for himself. |
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[#12]
Quoted: Oil on dipstick is in range, maybe a 1/4 qt low. I wiped it with my fingers and had one metal flake in it that I noticed. Re-dipping and looking again didn't show any metal. Probably settled out by now. I may have a mechanic lined up that is going to come look at it in a couple days. I was was thinking about draining the oil but I decided I don't want to do anything that makes his job any harder. I'll ask him before he comes over if he wants me to drain it, or if he wants me to leave it alone so he can turn it over and hear it for himself. View Quote |
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[#13]
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[#14]
We have ford work trucks with the v10 and all of them have had multiple engine problems. They are just a few year old and all of them have had engine replacements.
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[#15]
What would be involved with stuffing the 6.2 engine in there? That engine seems to get good reviews. Although if I stuck a new Ford v10 in there it would likely last as long as I need it. I only drive 8K to 10k miles a year as it is. If I do repower the thing it probably also ought to get a front end rebuild. At 160k now and front end has never been touched.
I'm just trying to rough out a decision tree here. My original, pre kaboom, plan was to semi retire the f250 and use it strictly for hunting, fishing trips, hauling yard cleanup, etc. and get something like an explorer for a daily driver. I'm not sure what I'm going to do now. |
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[#16]
Quoted: What would be involved with stuffing the 6.2 engine in there? That engine seems to get good reviews. Although if I stuck a new Ford v10 in there it would likely last as long as I need it. I only drive 8K to 10k miles a year as it is. If I do repower the thing it probably also ought to get a front end rebuild. At 160k now and front end has never been touched. I'm just trying to rough out a decision tree here. My original, pre kaboom, plan was to semi retire the f250 and use it strictly for hunting, fishing trips, hauling yard cleanup, etc. and get something like an explorer for a daily driver. I'm not sure what I'm going to do now. View Quote You can’t decide what to do until you know what’s wrong. |
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[#17]
Quoted: You can’t decide what to do until you know what’s wrong. View Quote I know that. I like to have some kind of if / then decision tree fleshed out and do some research ahead of time. But, I already know what's wrong. Just waiting for a mechanic to confirm. I'm sure it's thrown at least one rod. No idea if block is damaged or if the crank is damaged - but I'd bet yes on both. |
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[#18]
Quoted: I know that. I like to have some kind of if / then decision tree fleshed out and do some research ahead of time. But, I already know what's wrong. Just waiting for a mechanic to confirm. I'm sure it's thrown at least one rod. No idea if block is damaged or if the crank is damaged - but I'd bet yes on both. View Quote I wasn't going to comment again but will make one more post. You have decided what is wrong but won't do any of the diagnosing things we are suggesting you do so we can try to help you figure out what is wrong. Some of us here actually like helping others figure out their mechanical problems. I can think of several possibilities that are not a thrown rods but to know you will have to diagnose the problem....but you won't do any of the diagnostic steps needed. Since you have hired a mechanic to actually diagnose and figure it out, I recommend you NOT start out by telling him what you believe the problem is. In my time working as a mechanic years ago, when a vehicle or equipment owner tells the mechanic what the problem is, it is almost NEVER that problem. You might review this thread...... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/491555-max-rpm-triton-v-10-a.html First rule of diagnosing...always start with the cheapest things first and eliminate them one by one. Never start with the most expensive possibilities. Good luck. |
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[#19]
Just have a lot going on at the moment.
I do have an obd2 reader. It reads p0300 01/01. Random /multiple cylinder misfire detected. The instrument cluster displays the check engine symbol. I think 01/01 means there is only the one code to display. My friends son (the mechanic) is supposed to drop by tomorrow. See what he says. Then I can drain the oil or whatever needs to be done. |
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[#20]
I can tell you that unless you have access to a reasonably priced 6.2L just sitting around, it will easily become a money pit...assuming its even a bolt in swap (I have no idea). Depending on what's wrong with the V10, I would lean towards simply fixing it...and at this point, its really impossible to tell what's wrong.
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[#21]
Even if it costs $15,000 to put in a reman engine, what's a new truck cost; $80k, $90k? Even 10 to 15 year old 3/4 and 1 tons are still asking stupid money in my AO.
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[#22]
Have you opened the hood and given things a look and checked fluids ?
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[#24]
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[#25]
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[#26]
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[#27]
Exactly what I thought. Its thrown a rod.
From what I've read trying to stuff a godzilla in there is tough. Tunnel doesn't fit, have to buy the tranny also, pcm won't work, etc etc etc. There are a few threads on various ford forums about it. |
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[#28]
Quoted: Exactly what I thought. Its thrown a rod. From what I've read trying to stuff a godzilla in there is tough. Tunnel doesn't fit, have to buy the tranny also, pcm won't work, etc etc etc. There are a few threads on various ford forums about it. View Quote could do a junkyard V10 and drop it in they were around for quite some time. |
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[#29]
Going to look for a new Ford v10 3v crate motor.
Which are getting hard to get I'm told. Lots of remanufactured engines out there, but new Ford built crate engines are scarce. |
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[#30]
Don't know Fords that well but kinda sound like a dropped valve.
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[#32]
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[#33]
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[#34]
Quoted: Exactly how was this determined? What does "thrown" mean? View Quote It has a broken connecting rod. You know, that rod, shaft, gizmo, thingamabob, shooterbabe, that connects the piston to the crankshaft. Mechanic fired it up, listened to the banging and vibration, turned it off and said it was a catastrophic failure in the bottom end. Motor is doa. Hauled it off a couple days ago, purchased a Ford reman engine, and is doing an engine swap as I write this. I'm not sure when it comes home. Not even going to try to buy a short block and rebuild it. General consensus around here is a.) there are no good engine builders around here. Probably have to haul the thing to Spokane and hope for the best. And b.) By the time you're done with a rebuild you'll be at 80% or better of the cost of a new motor. Sadly, new Ford v10 tritons are unobtanium - so buying a Ford reman from Ford, with a Ford warranty. |
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[#35]
Quoted: It has a broken connecting rod. You know, that rod, shaft, gizmo, thingamabob, shooterbabe, that connects the piston to the crankshaft. Mechanic fired it up, listened to the banging and vibration, turned it off and said it was a catastrophic failure in the bottom end. Motor is doa. Hauled it off a couple days ago, purchased a Ford reman engine, and is doing an engine swap as I write this. I'm not sure when it comes home. Not even going to try to buy a short block and rebuild it. General consensus around here is a.) there are no good engine builders around here. Probably have to haul the thing to Spokane and hope for the best. And b.) By the time you're done with a rebuild you'll be at 80% or better of the cost of a new motor. Sadly, new Ford v10 tritons are unobtanium - so buying a Ford reman from Ford, with a Ford warranty. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Exactly how was this determined? What does "thrown" mean? It has a broken connecting rod. You know, that rod, shaft, gizmo, thingamabob, shooterbabe, that connects the piston to the crankshaft. Mechanic fired it up, listened to the banging and vibration, turned it off and said it was a catastrophic failure in the bottom end. Motor is doa. Hauled it off a couple days ago, purchased a Ford reman engine, and is doing an engine swap as I write this. I'm not sure when it comes home. Not even going to try to buy a short block and rebuild it. General consensus around here is a.) there are no good engine builders around here. Probably have to haul the thing to Spokane and hope for the best. And b.) By the time you're done with a rebuild you'll be at 80% or better of the cost of a new motor. Sadly, new Ford v10 tritons are unobtanium - so buying a Ford reman from Ford, with a Ford warranty. Sounds bad. Doesn't sound like a broken rod, but it does sound bad. |
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[#36]
Quoted: It has a broken connecting rod. You know, that rod, shaft, gizmo, thingamabob, shooterbabe, that connects the piston to the crankshaft. Mechanic fired it up, listened to the banging and vibration, turned it off and said it was a catastrophic failure in the bottom end. Motor is doa. Hauled it off a couple days ago, purchased a Ford reman engine, and is doing an engine swap as I write this. I'm not sure when it comes home. Not even going to try to buy a short block and rebuild it. General consensus around here is a.) there are no good engine builders around here. Probably have to haul the thing to Spokane and hope for the best. And b.) By the time you're done with a rebuild you'll be at 80% or better of the cost of a new motor. Sadly, new Ford v10 tritons are unobtanium - so buying a Ford reman from Ford, with a Ford warranty. View Quote Broken rods usually mean lots of holes in the block where there shouldn't be holes in the block. My bet is a spun bearing. Once the bearing spins, it loses oil, eventually gets hot and will start to break up. Usually if it goes long enough it will sieze up and then cause it to throw a rod (meaning it will throw it out of the block). Sometimes it will mean the rod just runs with too much bearing clearance or no bearing at all and you get that clattering noise. |
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