Posted: 5/17/2012 5:22:42 AM EDT
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I do not fucking need to deal with you right now. I just got bent over by uncle Sam and I just can't wait to find out what sort of raping I'm in for next.
Hopefully it's something mundane like an emissions sensor. Guess I'll find out at lunch when I go see what codes are showing. |
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My last check engine was a code telling me the PCM was going bad.
Dealer wants $600-800 to fix this. I found a refurbished computer place on the internet and swapped it for $250. First one didn't work, but they paid for shipping to send it back and the second unit fired right up. No more light for the current time. |
mine came on a couple of weeks back. did some poking and digging, and found a vacuum hose with a hole in it. 25 cents of heater hose, and the light went away. 
that was so simple, that monday the water pump decided to spit its guts all over the place. you evidently have to remove motor mounts to get to the pump on this car. fml. 
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Check the gas cap and check vacuum lines for holes/cracks before you pay anyone do anything. You can pull codes for free at any Autozone or Advance Auto 
Speed yep, I did this and found out my gas cap was loose. had to reset the battery to get the light off though. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Check the gas cap and check vacuum lines for holes/cracks before you pay anyone do anything. You can pull codes for free at any Autozone or Advance Auto Speed Yes you can but they don't always tell you the exact problem. That's just OBDII...you can always call a dealership all friendly like and ask them what your specific code you pulled could be. Speed |
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Check the gas cap and check vacuum lines for holes/cracks before you pay anyone do anything. You can pull codes for free at any Autozone or Advance Auto
Speed Yes you can but they don't always tell you the exact problem. That's just OBDII...you can always call a dealership all friendly like and ask them what your specific code you pulled could be. Speed Once you know what the code is, you can look it up online. I find that the majority of time, someone else has the exact same problem and I go right to it after doing a search. OBDII makes things easier than hit or miss poking around. |
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food for thought about ignoring engine warning signs. http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/581187_10150892827398491_560798490_9652981_2099083530_n.jpg You could cover that with silver tape |
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For me, it's the HO2 sensor. Every 6 months like clockwork. 
I think the CatCon is killing them, but I'd rather replace the HO2 sensor regularly than spring for a new catalytic converter. What is HO2? From Wiki answers: What is a HO2 sensor? A HO2 sensor (heated oxygen sensor) moniters the level of oxygen in the exhaust and sends that information to the engine control module. Practically, it is the thing attached to the wires before and after the catalytic converter. The one that goes bad for me is the one after the catalytic converter. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Check the gas cap and check vacuum lines for holes/cracks before you pay anyone do anything. You can pull codes for free at any Autozone or Advance Auto Speed Yes you can but they don't always tell you the exact problem. That's just OBDII...you can always call a dealership all friendly like and ask them what your specific code you pulled could be. Speed Google it. Most of the time you can find the code and likely causes/solutions. Often it's an emissions thing, not a "car is going to explode" thing. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Check the gas cap and check vacuum lines for holes/cracks before you pay anyone do anything. You can pull codes for free at any Autozone or Advance Auto Speed Yes you can but they don't always tell you the exact problem. That's just OBDII...you can always call a dealership all friendly like and ask them what your specific code you pulled could be. Speed Google it. Most of the time you can find the code and likely causes/solutions. Often it's an emissions thing, not a "car is going to explode" thing. I always just called dealerships as that's what I did growing up I never even thought to google it  , of course, I don't drive older cars anymore so it hasn't been an issue in a while either.Speed |
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Any man who owns a toolbox should also own a code reader.
The simple piece of mind it can provide is pretty much invaluable. Not knowing what's wrong and worrying about being stranded is the worst part of a Check Engine Light. Beyond that, you'll realize not all codes are an emergency and not all codes require $90/hr worth of labor to fix. Buy a code reader. |
But then again he would put a bandaid over it lol.
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Any man who owns a toolbox should also own a code reader. The simple piece of mind it can provide is pretty much invaluable. Not knowing what's wrong and worrying about being stranded is the worst part of a Check Engine Light. Beyond that, you'll realize not all codes are an emergency and not all codes require $90/hr worth of labor to fix. Buy a code reader. This. I bought my first scan tool a few decades ago when my old 1988 GMC truck started running bad and no one could figure it out. They replaced O2 sensors, ignition coils, throttle body spray nozzles, the idle air solenoid and all sorts of other stuff. Nothing worked. It quickly became apparent that these so-called mechanics really had no clue and were just swapping out parts hoping they found the right one. So I hooked up the scan tool and saw that the analog voltage from the throttle position sensor was erratic. $20 and 10 minutes of wrench turning later it was replaced and the problem was gone, something that after several months and hundreds of dollars the repair shops were unable to do. Recently I splurged and paid a whopping $198 for a super-duper scan tool because it also reads SRS and ABS. It came in handy when my Dad called and said his Check Engine light had been on for the past few days, and he was going to take it to the dealer. Instead I read the code - it was an EVAP leak, so I replaced the gas cap and used the scan tool to clear the code and turn off the light. (Many codes stay set even when the problem goes away and need to be reset with a scan tool.) This thing just paid for itself. You can buy a good scan tool for around $100 or a real nice one like mine for less than $200. Everybody should have one. |
