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Posted: 8/26/2024 3:57:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: D_J]
Forward: I usually build my PCs (my first home build was a 486), but sometimes I need a new system and don't have the time/energy/desire to research the latest and end up buying off the rack. This happened last time when I bought an Alienware Aurora R7 from Dell when my previous build was about 10-12 years old.
It has been fine as I don't game as much as I used to, but it has run WoW, Division 1/2, SWTOR, Destiny 2 and BG3 all just fine. The only upgrades I've made (that I can remember) was to add a big storage drive (5 GB) for pictures and other stuff and then I updated the 512MB SSD to a Samsung Pro 980 2 TB m.2 PCIe NVMe SSD so I could move all the games off the slow WD back to the faster SSD. It's an i7-8700k slightly OC'd with 32 GB of DDR4 @ 2666 MHz and 1080ti with 11 GB of DDR5x so it has handled all the games I play really well. However ... I was thinking of picking up Space Marine 2 and because its online multiplayer the required specs are pretty low, but I was just realizing my rig is 7 years old now and given the swarm gameplay I both a) want to keep framerates up and b) want it to look nice. So, the upgrade or replace dilemma. Given that I don't play anything that really pushes my machines hard, I usually upgrade at least once (CPU, GPU and/or memory usually) and as noted above that made my last machine work for over a decade. But, I really haven't kept up with new tech other than hearing about the latest Intel issues so I'm not 100% sure whether to make a couple of upgrades or just go ahead and spend $2-3k on another good machine to last another 7-10 years. Would love to hear recommendations. ETA - I changed my mind and decided to build a PC. You can skip to the latest build specs in post #23. |
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Posted: 8/26/2024 5:20:43 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Rebel31]
[#1]
A machine that is old is better to be repurposed and get something new. There a ton of uses you could put that old PC to work on. Pfsense router, media PC, NAS, camera DVR, etc.
The SSD should be the only thing you salvage. I personally am a fan of buying the parts and putting it together. Usually pre-builts cheap out on things like PSU's, RAM, and the NVME SSD. They like to use off brand parts and lower quality PSU's that barely meet the system requirements. $2-3k will buy a lot of computer these days. If you don't want to build your own one of the best pre-built companies is Star Forge. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 8/26/2024 8:58:55 PM EDT
[#2]
It belongs in a museum!
If it's 7yo, you may have problems finding more compatible RAM at an acceptable price. Covid did a real number on components. Don't get me started on GPUs. Since the economy is slowing down and we're entering the holiday season soon, you could snag up new components for a built for quite the discount. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 10:16:41 AM EDT
[Last Edit: D_J]
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By LonghornAR: It belongs in a museum! If it's 7yo, you may have problems finding more compatible RAM at an acceptable price. Covid did a real number on components. Don't get me started on GPUs. Since the economy is slowing down and we're entering the holiday season soon, you could snag up new components for a built for quite the discount. What would I do with more than 32 GB? I tried some searching last night on "best upgrade from i7-8700k" and "best GPU for an i-8700k" and the results were interesting. I could go to an i7-12700 but may need to swap the cooler. I could do an 3000 or 4000 card, but the 1080ti is comparable to the 4060 so I'd really need to go 3070 or 4070 for any gains at all (gpucheck.com puts the 4070 at a ~50% improvement w/same mobo & CPU). Most articles and feedback say the current combo is completely relevant for most of games (Div 2 runs 60 fps @ 4k, BG3 runs on Ultra @ 4k). I think to see a real difference is going to require about $3-500 in CPU/cooler and $8-1200 in GPU, at which point I might as well spend the extra $200-1000 on a new rig. The question is, do I really need the upgrade I thought I did? Maybe I don't. 
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Posted: 8/27/2024 11:58:57 AM EDT
[#4]
This seems crazy to me.
 
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Posted: 8/27/2024 4:05:44 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: What would I do with more than 32 GB? I tried some searching last night on "best upgrade from i7-8700k" and "best GPU for an i-8700k" and the results were interesting. I could go to an i7-12700 but may need to swap the cooler. I could do an 3000 or 4000 card, but the 1080ti is comparable to the 4060 so I'd really need to go 3070 or 4070 for any gains at all (gpucheck.com puts the 4070 at a ~50% improvement w/same mobo & CPU). Most articles and feedback say the current combo is completely relevant for most of games (Div 2 runs 60 fps @ 4k, BG3 runs on Ultra @ 4k). I think to see a real difference is going to require about $3-500 in CPU/cooler and $8-1200 in GPU, at which point I might as well spend the extra $200-1000 on a new rig. The question is, do I really need the upgrade I thought I did? Maybe I don't. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: Originally Posted By LonghornAR: It belongs in a museum! If it's 7yo, you may have problems finding more compatible RAM at an acceptable price. Covid did a real number on components. Don't get me started on GPUs. Since the economy is slowing down and we're entering the holiday season soon, you could snag up new components for a built for quite the discount. What would I do with more than 32 GB? I tried some searching last night on "best upgrade from i7-8700k" and "best GPU for an i-8700k" and the results were interesting. I could go to an i7-12700 but may need to swap the cooler. I could do an 3000 or 4000 card, but the 1080ti is comparable to the 4060 so I'd really need to go 3070 or 4070 for any gains at all (gpucheck.com puts the 4070 at a ~50% improvement w/same mobo & CPU). Most articles and feedback say the current combo is completely relevant for most of games (Div 2 runs 60 fps @ 4k, BG3 runs on Ultra @ 4k). I think to see a real difference is going to require about $3-500 in CPU/cooler and $8-1200 in GPU, at which point I might as well spend the extra $200-1000 on a new rig. The question is, do I really need the upgrade I thought I did? Maybe I don't. 8700k and 12700k use different sockets so you would be replacing the MB, too. 8700k is LGA1151 while the 12700k is on LGA 1700. Don't look at just FPS in games. Newer cards have newer features like ray tracing and DLSS that the 1080ti wont have. A lot of the benchmarks you are going to see have RT and DLSS off so you won't see the frame generation reflected in the numbers. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 8:52:09 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rebel31: 8700k and 12700k use different sockets so you would be replacing the MB, too. 8700k is LGA1151 while the 12700k is on LGA 1700. Don't look at just FPS in games. Newer cards have newer features like ray tracing and DLSS that the 1080ti wont have. A lot of the benchmarks you are going to see have RT and DLSS off so you won't see the frame generation reflected in the numbers. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rebel31: Originally Posted By D_J: Originally Posted By LonghornAR: It belongs in a museum! If it's 7yo, you may have problems finding more compatible RAM at an acceptable price. Covid did a real number on components. Don't get me started on GPUs. Since the economy is slowing down and we're entering the holiday season soon, you could snag up new components for a built for quite the discount. What would I do with more than 32 GB? I tried some searching last night on "best upgrade from i7-8700k" and "best GPU for an i-8700k" and the results were interesting. I could go to an i7-12700 but may need to swap the cooler. I could do an 3000 or 4000 card, but the 1080ti is comparable to the 4060 so I'd really need to go 3070 or 4070 for any gains at all (gpucheck.com puts the 4070 at a ~50% improvement w/same mobo & CPU). Most articles and feedback say the current combo is completely relevant for most of games (Div 2 runs 60 fps @ 4k, BG3 runs on Ultra @ 4k). I think to see a real difference is going to require about $3-500 in CPU/cooler and $8-1200 in GPU, at which point I might as well spend the extra $200-1000 on a new rig. The question is, do I really need the upgrade I thought I did? Maybe I don't. 8700k and 12700k use different sockets so you would be replacing the MB, too. 8700k is LGA1151 while the 12700k is on LGA 1700. Don't look at just FPS in games. Newer cards have newer features like ray tracing and DLSS that the 1080ti wont have. A lot of the benchmarks you are going to see have RT and DLSS off so you won't see the frame generation reflected in the numbers. I wondered about that, but didn’t look up the architecture. Looks like the i9-9900k is the best I can do on the 1151, so probably not worth a swap unless I’m replacing the whole rig. I only have the 1080 so not familiar with DLSS but I guess the question is do all games take advantage of it, or just certain ones? To get a decent bump I’m probably spending near $1k on a GPU (I guess a 4070 for $550-600 might be worthwhile). |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 9:20:36 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: I wondered about that, but didn't look up the architecture. Looks like the i9-9900k is the best I can do on the 1151, so probably not worth a swap unless I'm replacing the whole rig. I only have the 1080 so not familiar with DLSS but I guess the question is do all games take advantage of it, or just certain ones? To get a decent bump I'm probably spending near $1k on a GPU (I guess a 4070 for $550-600 might be worthwhile). Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: Originally Posted By Rebel31: Originally Posted By D_J: Originally Posted By LonghornAR: It belongs in a museum! If it's 7yo, you may have problems finding more compatible RAM at an acceptable price. Covid did a real number on components. Don't get me started on GPUs. Since the economy is slowing down and we're entering the holiday season soon, you could snag up new components for a built for quite the discount. What would I do with more than 32 GB? I tried some searching last night on "best upgrade from i7-8700k" and "best GPU for an i-8700k" and the results were interesting. I could go to an i7-12700 but may need to swap the cooler. I could do an 3000 or 4000 card, but the 1080ti is comparable to the 4060 so I'd really need to go 3070 or 4070 for any gains at all (gpucheck.com puts the 4070 at a ~50% improvement w/same mobo & CPU). Most articles and feedback say the current combo is completely relevant for most of games (Div 2 runs 60 fps @ 4k, BG3 runs on Ultra @ 4k). I think to see a real difference is going to require about $3-500 in CPU/cooler and $8-1200 in GPU, at which point I might as well spend the extra $200-1000 on a new rig. The question is, do I really need the upgrade I thought I did? Maybe I don't. 8700k and 12700k use different sockets so you would be replacing the MB, too. 8700k is LGA1151 while the 12700k is on LGA 1700. Don't look at just FPS in games. Newer cards have newer features like ray tracing and DLSS that the 1080ti wont have. A lot of the benchmarks you are going to see have RT and DLSS off so you won't see the frame generation reflected in the numbers. I wondered about that, but didn't look up the architecture. Looks like the i9-9900k is the best I can do on the 1151, so probably not worth a swap unless I'm replacing the whole rig. I only have the 1080 so not familiar with DLSS but I guess the question is do all games take advantage of it, or just certain ones? To get a decent bump I'm probably spending near $1k on a GPU (I guess a 4070 for $550-600 might be worthwhile). DLSS operates on the GPU so games don't have to 'opt in' for it to work. There is even in a setting in Nvidia Control Panel for 'super resolution' which enhances videos in browsers so watching YouTube videos look better than turning it off. This is why Nvidia is so dominate despite cards like the 7900 XTX being pretty close to the 4080/4080 Super in raw performance. The added features of Nvidia cards when you add in RT and DLSS put the 4080 cards ahead in most scenarios. For CPU's available now the 7800X3D is the best overall gaming CPU and the 4080/4080 Super is the best GPU. The 4090 is still the best pure performance wise but suffers from bad diminishing returns in cost. One thing I'll point it that right now might not be the best time to build a new rig if you're trying to save money or buy the latest and greatest. New Intel chips will be out by the end of the year, 5000 series Nvidia is coming, and the AMD 9000 Series X3D chips are coming out. The new chipset for AMD MB's is due out next month. If you were to build a system now you'd be buying hardware that has been out for a while now and which will probably drop in price as new stuff is released over the next 2-8 months. Buying new just released hardware can also not be the best experience especially with AMD products. They tend to take 3-6 months after launch to get drivers and firmware updates dialed in for both their CPU's and GPU's to where the obvious bugs get ironed out. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 9:51:24 PM EDT
[#8]
Ditch that 8th gen system and move up to a current gen system. 7-10 years is a good run. Time for a new one that will give you another 7-10 years.
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Posted: 8/27/2024 9:52:45 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rebel31: DLSS operates on the GPU so games don't have to 'opt in' for it to work. There is even in a setting in Nvidia Control Panel for 'super resolution' which enhances videos in browsers so watching YouTube videos look better than turning it off. This is why Nvidia is so dominate despite cards like the 7900 XTX being pretty close to the 4080/4080 Super in raw performance. The added features of Nvidia cards when you add in RT and DLSS put the 4080 cards ahead in most scenarios. For CPU's available now the 7800X3D is the best overall gaming CPU and the 4080/4080 Super is the best GPU. The 4090 is still the best pure performance wise but suffers from bad diminishing returns in cost. One thing I'll point it that right now might not be the best time to build a new rig if you're trying to save money or buy the latest and greatest. New Intel chips will be out by the end of the year, 5000 series Nvidia is coming, and the AMD 9000 Series X3D chips are coming out. The new chipset for AMD MB's is due out next month. If you were to build a system now you'd be buying hardware that has been out for a while now and which will probably drop in price as new stuff is released over the next 2-8 months. Buying new just released hardware can also not be the best experience especially with AMD products. They tend to take 3-6 months after launch to get drivers and firmware updates dialed in for both their CPU's and GPU's to where the obvious bugs get ironed out. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rebel31: Originally Posted By D_J: Originally Posted By Rebel31: Originally Posted By D_J: Originally Posted By LonghornAR: It belongs in a museum! If it's 7yo, you may have problems finding more compatible RAM at an acceptable price. Covid did a real number on components. Don't get me started on GPUs. Since the economy is slowing down and we're entering the holiday season soon, you could snag up new components for a built for quite the discount. What would I do with more than 32 GB? I tried some searching last night on "best upgrade from i7-8700k" and "best GPU for an i-8700k" and the results were interesting. I could go to an i7-12700 but may need to swap the cooler. I could do an 3000 or 4000 card, but the 1080ti is comparable to the 4060 so I'd really need to go 3070 or 4070 for any gains at all (gpucheck.com puts the 4070 at a ~50% improvement w/same mobo & CPU). Most articles and feedback say the current combo is completely relevant for most of games (Div 2 runs 60 fps @ 4k, BG3 runs on Ultra @ 4k). I think to see a real difference is going to require about $3-500 in CPU/cooler and $8-1200 in GPU, at which point I might as well spend the extra $200-1000 on a new rig. The question is, do I really need the upgrade I thought I did? Maybe I don't. 8700k and 12700k use different sockets so you would be replacing the MB, too. 8700k is LGA1151 while the 12700k is on LGA 1700. Don't look at just FPS in games. Newer cards have newer features like ray tracing and DLSS that the 1080ti wont have. A lot of the benchmarks you are going to see have RT and DLSS off so you won't see the frame generation reflected in the numbers. I wondered about that, but didn't look up the architecture. Looks like the i9-9900k is the best I can do on the 1151, so probably not worth a swap unless I'm replacing the whole rig. I only have the 1080 so not familiar with DLSS but I guess the question is do all games take advantage of it, or just certain ones? To get a decent bump I'm probably spending near $1k on a GPU (I guess a 4070 for $550-600 might be worthwhile). DLSS operates on the GPU so games don't have to 'opt in' for it to work. There is even in a setting in Nvidia Control Panel for 'super resolution' which enhances videos in browsers so watching YouTube videos look better than turning it off. This is why Nvidia is so dominate despite cards like the 7900 XTX being pretty close to the 4080/4080 Super in raw performance. The added features of Nvidia cards when you add in RT and DLSS put the 4080 cards ahead in most scenarios. For CPU's available now the 7800X3D is the best overall gaming CPU and the 4080/4080 Super is the best GPU. The 4090 is still the best pure performance wise but suffers from bad diminishing returns in cost. One thing I'll point it that right now might not be the best time to build a new rig if you're trying to save money or buy the latest and greatest. New Intel chips will be out by the end of the year, 5000 series Nvidia is coming, and the AMD 9000 Series X3D chips are coming out. The new chipset for AMD MB's is due out next month. If you were to build a system now you'd be buying hardware that has been out for a while now and which will probably drop in price as new stuff is released over the next 2-8 months. Buying new just released hardware can also not be the best experience especially with AMD products. They tend to take 3-6 months after launch to get drivers and firmware updates dialed in for both their CPU's and GPU's to where the obvious bugs get ironed out. Thanks for the info. Sounds like the best GPU choice (existing rig) would be one fast enough to be worth the spend but not so fast the CPU becomes a real bottleneck. As for buying the best & newest I never spend the crazy new release pricing and probably won’t do anything until I see how Space Marines 2 plays with the current setup. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 9:54:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: D_J]
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Moondog: Ditch that 8th gen system and move up to a current gen system. 7-10 years is a good run. Time for a new one that will give you another 7-10 years. Here’s the problem. It does everything I need / runs everything I currently play great for free. Unless I buy something it can’t handle, it seems like a huge waste to stop using it. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 10:35:00 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: Thanks for the info. Sounds like the best GPU choice (existing rig) would be one fast enough to be worth the spend but not so fast the CPU becomes a real bottleneck. As for buying the best & newest I never spend the crazy new release pricing and probably won't do anything until I see how Space Marines 2 plays with the current setup. It's always a balancing act between your system, games, and even peripherals like the monitor. 1440p is a lot easier to run than 4k but then you also have monitor refresh rate. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 8/28/2024 11:49:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: LonghornAR]
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: What would I do with more than 32 GB? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: What would I do with more than 32 GB? I've got 64 GB. Let me have a bunch of browser and RDP/VNC/terminal windows open. Also have my home security camera system streaming live video so I can monitor it. And transpile a few videos. All while playing Ghost Recon. The question is, do I really need the upgrade I thought I did? Maybe I don't. Doesn't sound like you're ready to upgrade or buy new. And that's okay. I totally get it. I've got a massive backlog of games that just grows every Steam holiday sale. Postpones my tech refresh schedule although my conversations with my gaming friends tend to be dated. |
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Posted: 8/28/2024 6:04:04 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By LonghornAR: I've got 64 GB. Let me have a bunch of browser and RDP/VNC/terminal windows open. Also have my home security camera system streaming live video so I can monitor it. And transpile a few videos. All while playing Ghost Recon. Doesn't sound like you're ready to upgrade or buy new. And that's okay. I totally get it. I've got a massive backlog of games that just grows every Steam holiday sale. Postpones my tech refresh schedule although my conversations with my gaming friends tend to be dated. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By LonghornAR: Originally Posted By D_J: What would I do with more than 32 GB? I've got 64 GB. Let me have a bunch of browser and RDP/VNC/terminal windows open. Also have my home security camera system streaming live video so I can monitor it. And transpile a few videos. All while playing Ghost Recon. The question is, do I really need the upgrade I thought I did? Maybe I don't. Doesn't sound like you're ready to upgrade or buy new. And that's okay. I totally get it. I've got a massive backlog of games that just grows every Steam holiday sale. Postpones my tech refresh schedule although my conversations with my gaming friends tend to be dated. On a daily basis my machine handles 20-40 open browser tabs, plus a bunch more parked, plus maybe a couple hours of some game that doesn’t stress it. I think I’ll hold off to see how SM2 does and watch for GPU sales for a 4070. |
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Posted: 8/28/2024 7:38:23 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: Here's the problem. It does everything I need / runs everything I currently play great for free. Unless I buy something it can't handle, it seems like a huge waste to stop using it. |
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Posted: 9/3/2024 4:20:40 PM EDT
[#15]
Well, now I'm reading that due to the swarm mechanic the CPU may be the weak spot in my machine. I have a 4070 I bought on sale sitting on the counter in case the game runs fine but looks bad. If it runs poorly, I'm planning to bite the bullet and build a new machine. I was going to keep the 970 Pro (not a 980 like I said above), but instead I'll just build from scratch vs. trying to convert the OS to the new hardware.
Here's my theoretical build, comments & suggestions welcome. I did not go for a 4090 as a) the game doesn't need it and b) the price/performance is not there IMHO. |
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Posted: 9/3/2024 9:13:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Rebel31]
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: Well, now I'm reading that due to the swarm mechanic the CPU may be the weak spot in my machine. I have a 4070 I bought on sale sitting on the counter in case the game runs fine but looks bad. If it runs poorly, I'm planning to bite the bullet and build a new machine. I was going to keep the 970 Pro (not a 980 like I said above), but instead I'll just build from scratch vs. trying to convert the OS to the new hardware. Here's my theoretical build, comments & suggestions welcome. I did not go for a 4090 as a) the game doesn't need it and b) the price/performance is not there IMHO. That PSU is not ATX 3.0 which you will want to connect to a 4000 series card. Nvidia adopted the 12VHPWR connector. You can get adapters that basically feed multiple PCIE 8 pin but that defeats the purpose. The 12VHPWR connector is meant to communicate directly with the PSU to adjust power delivery and the single cable provide up to 600 watts of power. There are four extra 'sense pins' in the connector that is a data feed to the PSU. It's more expensive but in your shoes I would look at the Seasonic Focus 1000W. They're very well made and ATX 3.0 compliant. The main caveat with the 12VHPWR connector is it needs to be firmly pushed in until you feel it click and that the cable connector isn't sitting cockeyed on the GPU connector. ETA: Also don't get the NVME drive with the heat sink. That MB already has built in heat sinks that you screw in over the top of the drive. They will have heat strips on the underside of the cover. |
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Posted: 9/3/2024 10:39:48 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rebel31: That PSU is not ATX 3.0 which you will want to connect to a 4000 series card. Nvidia adopted the 12VHPWR connector. You can get adapters that basically feed multiple PCIE 8 pin but that defeats the purpose. The 12VHPWR connector is meant to communicate directly with the PSU to adjust power delivery and the single cable provide up to 600 watts of power. There are four extra 'sense pins' in the connector that is a data feed to the PSU. It's more expensive but in your shoes I would look at the Seasonic Focus 1000W. They're very well made and ATX 3.0 compliant. The main caveat with the 12VHPWR connector is it needs to be firmly pushed in until you feel it click and that the cable connector isn't sitting cockeyed on the GPU connector. ETA: Also don't get the NVME drive with the heat sink. That MB already has built in heat sinks that you screw in over the top of the drive. They will have heat strips on the underside of the cover. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rebel31: Originally Posted By D_J: Well, now I'm reading that due to the swarm mechanic the CPU may be the weak spot in my machine. I have a 4070 I bought on sale sitting on the counter in case the game runs fine but looks bad. If it runs poorly, I'm planning to bite the bullet and build a new machine. I was going to keep the 970 Pro (not a 980 like I said above), but instead I'll just build from scratch vs. trying to convert the OS to the new hardware. Here's my theoretical build, comments & suggestions welcome. I did not go for a 4090 as a) the game doesn't need it and b) the price/performance is not there IMHO. That PSU is not ATX 3.0 which you will want to connect to a 4000 series card. Nvidia adopted the 12VHPWR connector. You can get adapters that basically feed multiple PCIE 8 pin but that defeats the purpose. The 12VHPWR connector is meant to communicate directly with the PSU to adjust power delivery and the single cable provide up to 600 watts of power. There are four extra 'sense pins' in the connector that is a data feed to the PSU. It's more expensive but in your shoes I would look at the Seasonic Focus 1000W. They're very well made and ATX 3.0 compliant. The main caveat with the 12VHPWR connector is it needs to be firmly pushed in until you feel it click and that the cable connector isn't sitting cockeyed on the GPU connector. ETA: Also don't get the NVME drive with the heat sink. That MB already has built in heat sinks that you screw in over the top of the drive. They will have heat strips on the underside of the cover. Thanks. I started from a recommended build and have been swapping parts as I research. Had not gotten to the PSU yet. The heat sink on the SSD was cheap so I thought “why not?” But I’ve not used one before and will skip it. |
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Posted: 9/3/2024 10:54:56 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: Thanks. I started from a recommended build and have been swapping parts as I research. Had not gotten to the PSU yet. The heat sink on the SSD was cheap so I thought "why not?" But I've not used one before and will skip it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: Originally Posted By Rebel31: Originally Posted By D_J: Well, now I'm reading that due to the swarm mechanic the CPU may be the weak spot in my machine. I have a 4070 I bought on sale sitting on the counter in case the game runs fine but looks bad. If it runs poorly, I'm planning to bite the bullet and build a new machine. I was going to keep the 970 Pro (not a 980 like I said above), but instead I'll just build from scratch vs. trying to convert the OS to the new hardware. Here's my theoretical build, comments & suggestions welcome. I did not go for a 4090 as a) the game doesn't need it and b) the price/performance is not there IMHO. That PSU is not ATX 3.0 which you will want to connect to a 4000 series card. Nvidia adopted the 12VHPWR connector. You can get adapters that basically feed multiple PCIE 8 pin but that defeats the purpose. The 12VHPWR connector is meant to communicate directly with the PSU to adjust power delivery and the single cable provide up to 600 watts of power. There are four extra 'sense pins' in the connector that is a data feed to the PSU. It's more expensive but in your shoes I would look at the Seasonic Focus 1000W. They're very well made and ATX 3.0 compliant. The main caveat with the 12VHPWR connector is it needs to be firmly pushed in until you feel it click and that the cable connector isn't sitting cockeyed on the GPU connector. ETA: Also don't get the NVME drive with the heat sink. That MB already has built in heat sinks that you screw in over the top of the drive. They will have heat strips on the underside of the cover. Thanks. I started from a recommended build and have been swapping parts as I research. Had not gotten to the PSU yet. The heat sink on the SSD was cheap so I thought "why not?" But I've not used one before and will skip it. Also just a word of caution because this happens more than you think. Make sure you take the little plastic peels off the CPU cold plate and the NVME drive coolers built into the MB. Sometimes they are hard to spot and easy to miss as most of them are clear. If the CPU cooler has pre applied paste (a lot of them do) I would plan on buying your own paste and cleaning off the pre-applied stuff. Thermal paste is not universal and the quality varies a lot. I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut on my system and close to two years later temps are the same as when it was new but I do dust out my PC every few months. The pre applied stuff tends to be low quality, and as Jay pointed out in the video some pastes can get real liquid like and squirt out the side over time as the cooler bracket mount puts pressure between the IHS and cold plate. If I were building a new system there are 'thermal pads' out now which also perform really well. LTT sells one (currently out of stock) that I wouldn't hesitate to use. The main thing with the pads is sticking them in the fridge for a couple of hours before applying and ensuring you trim them to just the right size to cover the IHS. https://www.lttstore.com/products/ptm7950-phase-change-thermal-pad?srsltid=AfmBOopCuPCYSeoAuZkyoBYD4FhppviZep2T1oeO7a5eF1gatksEb6rG  Does what Thermal Paste you use, REALLY matter? |
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Posted: 9/4/2024 12:39:21 AM EDT
[Last Edit: D_J]
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rebel31: Also just a word of caution because this happens more than you think. Make sure you take the little plastic peels off the CPU cold plate and the NVME drive coolers built into the MB. Sometimes they are hard to spot and easy to miss as most of them are clear. If the CPU cooler has pre applied paste (a lot of them do) I would plan on buying your own paste and cleaning off the pre-applied stuff. Thermal paste is not universal and the quality varies a lot. I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut on my system and close to two years later temps are the same as when it was new but I do dust out my PC every few months. The pre applied stuff tends to be low quality, and as Jay pointed out in the video some pastes can get real liquid like and squirt out the side over time as the cooler bracket mount puts pressure between the IHS and cold plate. If I were building a new system there are 'thermal pads' out now which also perform really well. LTT sells one (currently out of stock) that I wouldn't hesitate to use. The main thing with the pads is sticking them in the fridge for a couple of hours before applying and ensuring you trim them to just the right size to cover the IHS. https://www.lttstore.com/products/ptm7950-phase-change-thermal-pad?srsltid=AfmBOopCuPCYSeoAuZkyoBYD4FhppviZep2T1oeO7a5eF1gatksEb6rG  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhaEOEGDb94Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rebel31: Originally Posted By D_J: Originally Posted By Rebel31: Originally Posted By D_J: Well, now I'm reading that due to the swarm mechanic the CPU may be the weak spot in my machine. I have a 4070 I bought on sale sitting on the counter in case the game runs fine but looks bad. If it runs poorly, I'm planning to bite the bullet and build a new machine. I was going to keep the 970 Pro (not a 980 like I said above), but instead I'll just build from scratch vs. trying to convert the OS to the new hardware. Here's my theoretical build, comments & suggestions welcome. I did not go for a 4090 as a) the game doesn't need it and b) the price/performance is not there IMHO. That PSU is not ATX 3.0 which you will want to connect to a 4000 series card. Nvidia adopted the 12VHPWR connector. You can get adapters that basically feed multiple PCIE 8 pin but that defeats the purpose. The 12VHPWR connector is meant to communicate directly with the PSU to adjust power delivery and the single cable provide up to 600 watts of power. There are four extra 'sense pins' in the connector that is a data feed to the PSU. It's more expensive but in your shoes I would look at the Seasonic Focus 1000W. They're very well made and ATX 3.0 compliant. The main caveat with the 12VHPWR connector is it needs to be firmly pushed in until you feel it click and that the cable connector isn't sitting cockeyed on the GPU connector. ETA: Also don't get the NVME drive with the heat sink. That MB already has built in heat sinks that you screw in over the top of the drive. They will have heat strips on the underside of the cover. Thanks. I started from a recommended build and have been swapping parts as I research. Had not gotten to the PSU yet. The heat sink on the SSD was cheap so I thought "why not?" But I've not used one before and will skip it. Also just a word of caution because this happens more than you think. Make sure you take the little plastic peels off the CPU cold plate and the NVME drive coolers built into the MB. Sometimes they are hard to spot and easy to miss as most of them are clear. If the CPU cooler has pre applied paste (a lot of them do) I would plan on buying your own paste and cleaning off the pre-applied stuff. Thermal paste is not universal and the quality varies a lot. I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut on my system and close to two years later temps are the same as when it was new but I do dust out my PC every few months. The pre applied stuff tends to be low quality, and as Jay pointed out in the video some pastes can get real liquid like and squirt out the side over time as the cooler bracket mount puts pressure between the IHS and cold plate. If I were building a new system there are 'thermal pads' out now which also perform really well. LTT sells one (currently out of stock) that I wouldn't hesitate to use. The main thing with the pads is sticking them in the fridge for a couple of hours before applying and ensuring you trim them to just the right size to cover the IHS. https://www.lttstore.com/products/ptm7950-phase-change-thermal-pad?srsltid=AfmBOopCuPCYSeoAuZkyoBYD4FhppviZep2T1oeO7a5eF1gatksEb6rG https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhaEOEGDb94Interesting. I’ve never bought a cooler that came pre-pasted. ETA - I’ll check for the plastic peels since I’m not sure what you’re talking about. |
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Posted: 9/4/2024 1:03:48 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: Interesting. I've never bought a cooler that came pre-pasted. ETA - I'll check for the plastic peels since I'm not sure what you're talking about. Here's a pic I found on Reddit. You can see how it would be easy to miss. A thermal pad like that will be on the underside of the built in NVME heat sinks on the MB with a peel laid over the top of the pad.  Attached File |
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Posted: 9/4/2024 9:47:54 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rebel31: Here's a pic I found on Reddit. You can see how it would be easy to miss. A thermal pad like that will be on the underside of the built in NVME heat sinks on the MB with a peel laid over the top of the pad. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/381696/kuls9ls0sjt71_jpg-3312812.JPG Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rebel31: Originally Posted By D_J: Interesting. I've never bought a cooler that came pre-pasted. ETA - I'll check for the plastic peels since I'm not sure what you're talking about. Here's a pic I found on Reddit. You can see how it would be easy to miss. A thermal pad like that will be on the underside of the built in NVME heat sinks on the MB with a peel laid over the top of the pad. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/381696/kuls9ls0sjt71_jpg-3312812.JPG Gotcha - yeah, I can see how that might be easy to miss. |
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Posted: 9/4/2024 9:08:04 PM EDT
[#22]
I just checked and I can get a Samsung G95SC (49" OLED ultra wide screen) for $990 ($810) discount or a G80SD (32" OLED 4k) for $900 ($400 discount).
It seems crazy to not splurge for the 49" for an extra $100, but I'm not sure if I'm ready to give up my second monitor for browsers. Both are 240Hz and 0.3ms response time. |
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Posted: 9/4/2024 9:55:16 PM EDT
[#23]
I think I'm about done with the build. Here it is.
I bit the bullet and got the 49" Samsung ultra wide monitor and picked up a 990 Pro 4TB while on the site since it was discounted as well ($40 if memory serves). If I can't think of any other changes, I'll probably start ordering parts tomorrow. The x670e should hopefully futureproof this a bit. I decided against going higher than the 4070 Super as the price/performance ratio starts to fall off IMHO. Hopefully I don't regret spending extra there. |
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Posted: 9/5/2024 10:44:02 AM EDT
[#24]
Bump for last minute feedback before I pull the trigger.
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MO, USA
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Posted: 9/5/2024 10:56:33 AM EDT
[#25]
That Mobo doesn't list wifi...unless I missed it.
Fans 3 pack listed twice, using six fan? |
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Posted: 9/5/2024 12:09:30 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nophun: That Mobo doesn't list wifi...unless I missed it. Fans 3 pack listed twice, using six fan? I don't use wifi. Gigabit ethernet FTW. The case supports top, bottom, front and rear fans. The AIO has 3, was going to put 3 in front and 3 in bottom. I forgot one for the rear. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 9/5/2024 3:38:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: castlebravo84]
[#27]
I would at least wait for good benchmark reviews for the game from someone like Digital Foundry.
Also, next gen GPUs are expected to come out around the end of the year. |
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Posted: 9/5/2024 6:19:45 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By castlebravo84: I would at least wait for good benchmark reviews for the game from someone like Digital Foundry. Also, next gen GPUs are expected to come out around the end of the year. I’m playing the game now and it runs fine on my current PC. Fine being at least 30 fps on medium to high settings @ 4k. I’m still planning on building something new and won’t need the latest & greatest CPU. There’s always a new piece of kit around the corner. |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 9/5/2024 6:20:46 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: I don't use wifi. Gigabit ethernet FTW. The case supports top, bottom, front and rear fans. The AIO has 3, was going to put 3 in front and 3 in bottom. I forgot one for the rear. Intake on the bottom and front, exhaust on top and rear to keep hot air rising where it needs to go. I would probably recommend a cheap SATA powered fan controller for the case fans if you are particular about cleaning up the wires inside the case. That said, I am a HUGE fan (pun intended) of Lian Li's UNI fans that interlock and use only a single lead for a 3 stack of fans. They are however, twice the price of what you have currently. YMMV |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 9/5/2024 7:01:54 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: I don't use wifi. Gigabit ethernet FTW. The case supports top, bottom, front and rear fans. The AIO has 3, was going to put 3 in front and 3 in bottom. I forgot one for the rear. Looks like a good build then, have a blast! |
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Posted: 9/5/2024 9:09:45 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ShOcKeRpb: Intake on the bottom and front, exhaust on top and rear to keep hot air rising where it needs to go. I would probably recommend a cheap SATA powered fan controller for the case fans if you are particular about cleaning up the wires inside the case. That said, I am a HUGE fan (pun intended) of Lian Li's UNI fans that interlock and use only a single lead for a 3 stack of fans. They are however, twice the price of what you have currently. YMMV Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ShOcKeRpb: Originally Posted By D_J: I don't use wifi. Gigabit ethernet FTW. The case supports top, bottom, front and rear fans. The AIO has 3, was going to put 3 in front and 3 in bottom. I forgot one for the rear. Intake on the bottom and front, exhaust on top and rear to keep hot air rising where it needs to go. I would probably recommend a cheap SATA powered fan controller for the case fans if you are particular about cleaning up the wires inside the case. That said, I am a HUGE fan (pun intended) of Lian Li's UNI fans that interlock and use only a single lead for a 3 stack of fans. They are however, twice the price of what you have currently. YMMV I've not had to really worry about case fans before, so I'm open to ideas. Any suggestions for a fan controller? I'll take a look at the Lian Li again. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 9/6/2024 5:56:30 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: I've not had to really worry about case fans before, so I'm open to ideas. Any suggestions for a fan controller? I'll take a look at the Lian Li again. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: Originally Posted By ShOcKeRpb: Originally Posted By D_J: I don't use wifi. Gigabit ethernet FTW. The case supports top, bottom, front and rear fans. The AIO has 3, was going to put 3 in front and 3 in bottom. I forgot one for the rear. Intake on the bottom and front, exhaust on top and rear to keep hot air rising where it needs to go. I would probably recommend a cheap SATA powered fan controller for the case fans if you are particular about cleaning up the wires inside the case. That said, I am a HUGE fan (pun intended) of Lian Li's UNI fans that interlock and use only a single lead for a 3 stack of fans. They are however, twice the price of what you have currently. YMMV I've not had to really worry about case fans before, so I'm open to ideas. Any suggestions for a fan controller? I'll take a look at the Lian Li again. The case you picked comes with a fan controller, and the fans you picked come with daisy chain connectors on the cables that eliminate the need for a splitter cable, but the case is kinda bad for airflow, and poor value for the money IMO. I would suggest the Montech King 95 for better value, and for not blocking the top radiator mount with a solid glass panel like the H9 Elite does. Then get P12 PST (normal size, not slim like you picked), or P12 PST A-RGB if you want them to match the A-RGB fans on your cooler. Buy fans for the two front/side intakes, and the three bottom intakes. Use the liquid cooler as exhaust on top with included fans. Don't bother with rear fan unless you want more RGB. King 95 P12 non-RGB P12 RGB |
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Posted: 9/6/2024 10:20:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: D_J]
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By castlebravo84: The case you picked comes with a fan controller, and the fans you picked come with daisy chain connectors on the cables that eliminate the need for a splitter cable, but the case is kinda bad for airflow, and poor value for the money IMO. I would suggest the Montech King 95 for better value, and for not blocking the top radiator mount with a solid glass panel like the H9 Elite does. Then get P12 PST (normal size, not slim like you picked), or P12 PST A-RGB if you want them to match the A-RGB fans on your cooler. Buy fans for the two front/side intakes, and the three bottom intakes. Use the liquid cooler as exhaust on top with included fans. Don't bother with rear fan unless you want more RGB. King 95 P12 non-RGB P12 RGB Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By castlebravo84: Originally Posted By D_J: Originally Posted By ShOcKeRpb: Originally Posted By D_J: I don't use wifi. Gigabit ethernet FTW. The case supports top, bottom, front and rear fans. The AIO has 3, was going to put 3 in front and 3 in bottom. I forgot one for the rear. Intake on the bottom and front, exhaust on top and rear to keep hot air rising where it needs to go. I would probably recommend a cheap SATA powered fan controller for the case fans if you are particular about cleaning up the wires inside the case. That said, I am a HUGE fan (pun intended) of Lian Li's UNI fans that interlock and use only a single lead for a 3 stack of fans. They are however, twice the price of what you have currently. YMMV I've not had to really worry about case fans before, so I'm open to ideas. Any suggestions for a fan controller? I'll take a look at the Lian Li again. The case you picked comes with a fan controller, and the fans you picked come with daisy chain connectors on the cables that eliminate the need for a splitter cable, but the case is kinda bad for airflow, and poor value for the money IMO. I would suggest the Montech King 95 for better value, and for not blocking the top radiator mount with a solid glass panel like the H9 Elite does. Then get P12 PST (normal size, not slim like you picked), or P12 PST A-RGB if you want them to match the A-RGB fans on your cooler. Buy fans for the two front/side intakes, and the three bottom intakes. Use the liquid cooler as exhaust on top with included fans. Don't bother with rear fan unless you want more RGB. King 95 P12 non-RGB P12 RGB  I’m not married to the case, it was just a recommendation. I’ll check those out. ETA - Saw this comment on the non-Pro King 95, will need to read up on the truth of it. It's a good case would rather get the pro version this does not come with fan hub. |
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Posted: 9/7/2024 1:48:55 AM EDT
[#34]
Fans and controllers are all over the place.
What you want to avoid is needing some sort of control software that's always running in the background in Windows. What I ended up with was a Be Quiet 500DX and added 3 120MM fans to the front panel. I moved the 2 of the 3 140mm fans to top of the case. I have a 280MM EVGA AIO in the front panel and routed the 2 120MM fans that directly sit over the radiator to be CPU and CPU OPT fans while routing the RGB header to the hub that came with the case. The AIO pump gets routed to the AIO pump header on the MB. The bottom 120mm gets routed to be a chassis fan. If I could do it again I would just get something like a Fractal Torrent and put Noctua fans in with a Noctua cooler. Getting all the fans RGB lighting lined up from the bottom 120mm back to the rear exhaust 140mm was a pain so the light lined up   Attached File |
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Posted: 9/7/2024 10:02:10 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rebel31: Fans and controllers are all over the place. What you want to avoid is needing some sort of control software that's always running in the background in Windows. What I ended up with was a Be Quiet 500DX and added 3 120MM fans to the front panel. I moved the 2 of the 3 140mm fans to top of the case. I have a 280MM EVGA AIO in the front panel and routed the 2 120MM fans that directly sit over the radiator to be CPU and CPU OPT fans while routing the RGB header to the hub that came with the case. The AIO pump gets routed to the AIO pump header on the MB. The bottom 120mm gets routed to be a chassis fan. If I could do it again I would just get something like a Fractal Torrent and put Noctua fans in with a Noctua cooler. Getting all the fans RGB lighting lined up from the bottom 120mm back to the rear exhaust 140mm was a pain so the light lined up https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/381696/IMG_2467_jpg-3315448.JPG I feel like the fan / case choice is the most complicated of the whole build, and what I have the least experience with. All my previous cases were stock case fans and air-cooled CPUs (big Noctua). 
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TX, USA
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Posted: 9/7/2024 11:09:19 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: I feel like the fan / case choice is the most complicated of the whole build, and what I have the least experience with. All my previous cases were stock case fans and air-cooled CPUs (big Noctua). Cases and fans have come a long way. RGB and ARGB have made it more complicated. The recent shift towards modular wiring is a good thing IMO for less clutter (better airflow). But yea, if you haven't be building PCs every few years, the diff is jarring. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 9/7/2024 1:45:10 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: I’m not married to the case, it was just a recommendation. I’ll check those out. ETA - Saw this comment on the non-Pro King 95, will need to read up on the truth of it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: Originally Posted By castlebravo84: Originally Posted By D_J: Originally Posted By ShOcKeRpb: Originally Posted By D_J: I don't use wifi. Gigabit ethernet FTW. The case supports top, bottom, front and rear fans. The AIO has 3, was going to put 3 in front and 3 in bottom. I forgot one for the rear. Intake on the bottom and front, exhaust on top and rear to keep hot air rising where it needs to go. I would probably recommend a cheap SATA powered fan controller for the case fans if you are particular about cleaning up the wires inside the case. That said, I am a HUGE fan (pun intended) of Lian Li's UNI fans that interlock and use only a single lead for a 3 stack of fans. They are however, twice the price of what you have currently. YMMV I've not had to really worry about case fans before, so I'm open to ideas. Any suggestions for a fan controller? I'll take a look at the Lian Li again. The case you picked comes with a fan controller, and the fans you picked come with daisy chain connectors on the cables that eliminate the need for a splitter cable, but the case is kinda bad for airflow, and poor value for the money IMO. I would suggest the Montech King 95 for better value, and for not blocking the top radiator mount with a solid glass panel like the H9 Elite does. Then get P12 PST (normal size, not slim like you picked), or P12 PST A-RGB if you want them to match the A-RGB fans on your cooler. Buy fans for the two front/side intakes, and the three bottom intakes. Use the liquid cooler as exhaust on top with included fans. Don't bother with rear fan unless you want more RGB. King 95 P12 non-RGB P12 RGB I’m not married to the case, it was just a recommendation. I’ll check those out. ETA - Saw this comment on the non-Pro King 95, will need to read up on the truth of it. It's a good case would rather get the pro version this does not come with fan hub. The Elite comes with some Montech fans that are IMO inferior to the Arctic fans, and a basic fan hub. I would get the non-elite and buy fans separately, but honestly we are splitting hairs here. You can connect the Arctic fans together and let the mobo or other fan control software control them (I like "Fan Control", google it). |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 9/7/2024 1:53:14 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rebel31: Fans and controllers are all over the place. What you want to avoid is needing some sort of control software that's always running in the background in Windows. We are of opposite schools of thought on this, but either way will work. I like fan control software mostly because it lets me control case fan(s) based on temp sensors other than CPU. In particular, I like to have case fans pointed at the GPU ramp up in speed as the GPU temp increases. A program called "Fan Control" is excellent for this. 
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Posted: 9/7/2024 7:19:23 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By castlebravo84: The Elite comes with some Montech fans that are IMO inferior to the Arctic fans, and a basic fan hub. I would get the non-elite and buy fans separately, but honestly we are splitting hairs here. You can connect the Arctic fans together and let the mobo or other fan control software control them (I like "Fan Control", google it). Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By castlebravo84: Originally Posted By D_J: Originally Posted By castlebravo84: Originally Posted By D_J: Originally Posted By ShOcKeRpb: Originally Posted By D_J: I don't use wifi. Gigabit ethernet FTW. The case supports top, bottom, front and rear fans. The AIO has 3, was going to put 3 in front and 3 in bottom. I forgot one for the rear. Intake on the bottom and front, exhaust on top and rear to keep hot air rising where it needs to go. I would probably recommend a cheap SATA powered fan controller for the case fans if you are particular about cleaning up the wires inside the case. That said, I am a HUGE fan (pun intended) of Lian Li's UNI fans that interlock and use only a single lead for a 3 stack of fans. They are however, twice the price of what you have currently. YMMV I've not had to really worry about case fans before, so I'm open to ideas. Any suggestions for a fan controller? I'll take a look at the Lian Li again. The case you picked comes with a fan controller, and the fans you picked come with daisy chain connectors on the cables that eliminate the need for a splitter cable, but the case is kinda bad for airflow, and poor value for the money IMO. I would suggest the Montech King 95 for better value, and for not blocking the top radiator mount with a solid glass panel like the H9 Elite does. Then get P12 PST (normal size, not slim like you picked), or P12 PST A-RGB if you want them to match the A-RGB fans on your cooler. Buy fans for the two front/side intakes, and the three bottom intakes. Use the liquid cooler as exhaust on top with included fans. Don't bother with rear fan unless you want more RGB. King 95 P12 non-RGB P12 RGB I’m not married to the case, it was just a recommendation. I’ll check those out. ETA - Saw this comment on the non-Pro King 95, will need to read up on the truth of it. It's a good case would rather get the pro version this does not come with fan hub. The Elite comes with some Montech fans that are IMO inferior to the Arctic fans, and a basic fan hub. I would get the non-elite and buy fans separately, but honestly we are splitting hairs here. You can connect the Arctic fans together and let the mobo or other fan control software control them (I like "Fan Control", google it). The gating factor is likely to be wait time. No one can get the King 95 here quickly and once I’m ready to buy/build I have zero patience for week+ shipping. |
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Posted: 9/9/2024 12:31:33 PM EDT
[#40]
Time to start building.
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Posted: 9/9/2024 12:50:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: eracer]
[#41]
Overall I think you chose excellent components.
- The 7800X3D is a great gaming CPU. In fact, other than a highly tweaked 7950X3D, it's the best, and an absolute bargain, relatively speaking. - The 4070 Super is a very capable GPU that gets you good RT and DLSS. - Excellent motherboard. - You chose good RAM, as 6000MHz is the sweet spot right now for the AMD on-chip memory controller. I bought G.Skill Trident Z DDR-6400, and manually tightened timings a bit to give it a bit of a frequency boost over 6000, while maintaining a 1:1 uCLK:mCLK ratio. But your DDR-6000 is a solid choice. - Quality power supply with plenty of juice. - And a great SSD. Good job not falling for the PCI 5.0 hype. The only negative I see is the Kryonaut paste. Don't get me wrong, it's very high quality. But it's really hard to work with, and is intended more for extreme overclocking use. I've settled on Noctua NT-H2. There are plenty of other good options. I just didn't like the Kryonaut. Well done.
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Posted: 9/9/2024 3:28:42 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By eracer: Overall I think you chose excellent components. - The 7800X3D is a great gaming CPU. In fact, other than a highly tweaked 7950X3D, it's the best, and an absolute bargain, relatively speaking. - The 4070 Super is a very capable GPU that gets you good RT and DLSS. - Excellent motherboard. - You chose good RAM, as 6000MHz is the sweet spot right now for the AMD on-chip memory controller. I bought G.Skill Trident Z DDR-6400, and manually tightened timings a bit to give it a bit of a frequency boost over 6000, while maintaining a 1:1 uCLK:mCLK ratio. But your DDR-6000 is a solid choice. - Quality power supply with plenty of juice. - And a great SSD. Good job not falling for the PCI 5.0 hype. The only negative I see is the Kryonaut paste. Don't get me wrong, it's very high quality. But it's really hard to work with, and is intended more for extreme overclocking use. I've settled on Noctua NT-H2. There are plenty of other good options. I just didn't like the Kryonaut. Well done. I got it from a recommendation here. I'm pretty sure last time was AS6 but most of these others didn't exist back then so I figured I would give it a try. |
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Posted: 9/9/2024 5:48:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: D_J]
[#43]
Well, I’m stuck. The motherboard wants an 8-pin and a 4-pin power connector. All I have are 8 and 6+2.
Plenty of extra cables I don’t need and missing the one I do need. FFS. ETA after searching cables I found out the 8-pin cpu cables can be separated.
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Posted: 9/9/2024 6:16:38 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: Well, I'm stuck. The motherboard wants an 8-pin and a 4-pin power connector. All I have are 8 and 6+2. Plenty of extra cables I don't need and missing the one I do need. FFS. ETA after searching cables I found out the 8-pin cpu cables can be separated. Yeah that gets a lot of people
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Posted: 9/9/2024 9:40:17 PM EDT
[#45]
I’m remembering why I didn’t build my own machine last time.
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Posted: 9/9/2024 9:50:58 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_J: I'm remembering why I didn't build my own machine last time.  Grats on the new build |
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Posted: 9/10/2024 12:32:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: D_J]
[#47]
Well, progress is a good thing I guess.
I have the system up and running and I'm posting from it now. Made a few mistakes (forgot to add power to the 4070, had to reverse the AIO radiator twice - worried about touching the rear fan, only to find I couldn't reach the CPU from the front), and solved a number of real head scratchers installing Win11 (LAN didn't work, had to use USB eth adapter).The main issue now is the fans. I ended up with the Lian Li Lancool 216 case, which comes with massive front aRGB fans and one rear fan. All work, but a) I'm not really sure how to control the LEDs except for the external control panel and b) the fan speed up/slow down almost like its breathing regardless of PC activity. I can't figure out how to control their speed and when googling it takes me to their L3-Connect software - but that only provides info and no control ability. If I can figure them out and like them I'll return one set of Arctic fans, otherwise I'll replace them with a 3x120 set. Meanwhile, there is an ARGB controller on the back of the MB mounting plate but I can't figure out how to access it yet. I tried both silent and standard fan setting in the BIOS, tried setting based of CPU and/or MB, with no real changes. I bought an Arctic fan hub, but it will take some time to get here so I ordered a Thermaltake hub I could get in 1 day in case the Lian Li case didn't have a controller, but I'm not sure I understand if controller and hub/controller are different - or if they're the same, just different brands/control mechanisms. |
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Posted: 9/10/2024 4:18:45 PM EDT
[#48]
I try to connect the fans to the MB headers first and in the correct spots. I have two fans for my AIO and I connected those to the proper CPU and CPU-OPT headers. The ARGB connector for each fan goes to the hub.
Two front fans that blow through my radiator go to CPU 1 and CPU/OPT The rear fan goes to CHA 1 Top fans go to CHA 1 & 2 Remaining front fan goes to CHA 3 AIO pump goes to AIO 1 I looked up your MB manual and you have: CPU_FAN1 CPU_FAN2 CHA_FAN1 CHA_FAN2 CHA_FAN3 CHA_FAN4 "This motherboard provides a 4-Pin water cooling CPU fan connector. If you plan to connect a 3-Pin CPU water cooler fan, please connect it to Pin 1-3." As far as I can tell you would use "Chassis/Water Pump Fan Connector (CHA_FAN3/WP)" for the AIO pump which is to the lower left of the CPU. Thats a similar location to the AIO pump header on my ASUS MB. I don't see any reason to use the hub for anything but ARGB and use the MB fan headers for actual fan control. |
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Posted: 9/11/2024 12:31:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: D_J]
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rebel31: I try to connect the fans to the MB headers first and in the correct spots. I have two fans for my AIO and I connected those to the proper CPU and CPU-OPT headers. The ARGB connector for each fan goes to the hub. Two front fans that blow through my radiator go to CPU 1 and CPU/OPT The rear fan goes to CHA 1 Top fans go to CHA 1 & 2 Remaining front fan goes to CHA 3 AIO pump goes to AIO 1 I looked up your MB manual and you have: CPU_FAN1 CPU_FAN2 CHA_FAN1 CHA_FAN2 CHA_FAN3 CHA_FAN4 "This motherboard provides a 4-Pin water cooling CPU fan connector. If you plan to connect a 3-Pin CPU water cooler fan, please connect it to Pin 1-3." As far as I can tell you would use "Chassis/Water Pump Fan Connector (CHA_FAN3/WP)" for the AIO pump which is to the lower left of the CPU. Thats a similar location to the AIO pump header on my ASUS MB. I don't see any reason to use the hub for anything but ARGB and use the MB fan headers for actual fan control. I was wondering about that. Trying to solve the fan issue is priority #2 and ARGB #2, but when I'm stuck on one I spend some time on the other. FANS: All the provided chassis fans (3, 2 front & 1 rear) come installed on the controller, which then goes into the ADDR_LED (ARGB) and RGB_LED1 (PWM). The AIO has 3 PWM - CPU_FAN2/WP (connects to the 3 fan PWM cables via splitter), CPU_FAN1 & CHA_FAN1/WP (CPU fan PWM). I'm wondering if the radiator fan splitter should be on CHA_FAN1 instead of the second CPU_FAN2, but that's what was recommended on a build video. ARGB: The AIO evidently came with a 3-ARGB hub that I found today - its SATA powered and plugs into USB_7_8 currently for data/programming. I put the AIO ARGB cables into that (daisy-chained, previously on the chassis ARGB controller) and with the Cooler Master software they are programmable. I tried putting the front fans ARGB (daisy chained) in the CM hub, but they don't appear on the software (that port and the empty port both say "Gen 2 fan is not connected"). I feel like I'm making some progress and wonder if I should just wait for the Arctic controller and plug everything into that since is supports control for 10 PWM. If that solves the power/speed issue I suspect the Arctic fans would work with the CM hub (I plan to try a couple since I want to install at least 2 in the bottom of the case below the GPU/above the PSU) - if they do, the obvious answer seems to be replacing all the stock fans and ignoring that chassis controller. It does let you cycle through some pre-programmed configurations on the front fan, but it seems like more of a hindrance than a help at this point. ETA - I could probably do PWM via chassis plugs, but I would need to do some re-routing based on the current cable locations. |
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Posted: 9/11/2024 1:17:55 PM EDT
[#50]
The fans on the AIO should go into CPU fan header. The rest of the fans can connect to the CHA headers. The AIO fans should get treated the same as fans on an air cooler.
The thing with a hub or controller is they are not all the same. If you plug all the chassis fans into a hub and then hub into a CHA header the hub only gets one signal off the header for fan speed. Some allow you to individually control each fan but you have to run software to do that. I prefer to just let the bios auto fan tuning run and I'm happy with the results. Just day to day use my PC is almost silent. My AIO has a splitter that I just leave tucked in the side of the case. I don't want to run EVGA software to control fans and pump speed. With the AIO header on my MB the bios can see the pump speed. |
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