Posted: 6/20/2010 4:00:14 PM EDT
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ADHD Summary below!
I have a Coleman Powerbase 5000 generator with a 10 HP motor. I picked it up at a garage sale about 6 months ago from a guy who said it had been sitting for a while with the fluids drained. Today I replaced the spark plug and added oil (used a quart of 10W-30). I looked all over the internet for a manual for it and the best I can find anywhere is just the exploded parts diagram. I downloaded the manuals for similar generators and they have no useful information - just telling you how to start it and to disconnect the load before turning it off. After I replaced the plug and added the oil (and eventually remembered to turn on the stopcock for the gas tank  ) it refused to start. I remembered that this model has a low oil sensor and it won't start if there's not enough oil. Sure enough the exhaust (which smelled like gas after I turned it on) was cold. I added another 250mL ish or oil (until it was right up to the threads for the filler cap - there's no dipstick) and it roared to life - briefly.
I started it with the choke on and it ran for a few seconds then started getting rough. I turned the choke to run and it ran nicely for about 10 seconds, then started loping, then died. I drained a little of the oil and there was some sediment in it, but it mostly looks like the red sealer around the oil drain plug, so I think most of it got picked up on the way out. The oil looked frothy and after I let the sample sit, the air bubbled out of it. Color was right. I haven't been able to get it to start again on choke or run. The time it started it started easily on the first pull. I've tried letting it sit for 15 minutes in case it flooded - no go. TL;DR summary: * Coleman powerbase 5000 10hp that's been sitting without fluids for at least 1 year * Replaced spark plug and oil * Ran briefly, then loped, and died, and haven't been able to get it to restart * Some sediment in the new oil Help ARFCOM! |
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Quoted: Quoted: Carb is varnished. B12 Chemtool, compressed air, small brushes and a carb kit. Take pictures as you disassemble along with notes. Even though it was stored dry? Yes. Draining the bowl doesn't stop decay of float seat. He didn't flush the carb out with clean solvent (paint thinner). Chances are it is just in the float bowl and main jet. |
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Quoted:
The gas you added was fresh? you didn't say anything about adding gas, only that you turned the gas back on. Yup, gas is fresh enough. It's stabilized gas that I keep in the garage, maybe a month old. I've watched several videos on youtube on cleaning the carb and I feel confident in doing it now. I have the air cleaner off and the fuel line to the carb (stuffed with clean rags at the moment.) Off to the auto parts store to get carb cleaner and chem resistant gloves - the ones I had been using turned out to be ok for oil, not so ok for gasoiline 
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B-12 works well. Kreen works better.
Please make sure to turn off the valve for the tank to feed the carb if it is above the engine and carb. The fresh gas will dissolve some of the gunk in the carb, it will open slightly, and all of the gasoline will drain out through the carb and air filter onto your garage floor. If you are lucky, that's not next to a gas water heater. |
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Partial success...
Removed the carb, disassembled it as much as I could (looks like this particular carb wasn't designed to be taken apart too far) and worked it over with the carb cleaner. Removed a big chunk of lint from the high speed jet. The bowl was clean, though it did smell a bit of varnish. Put everything back together, first pull - vroom! Yay! 
Then it ran for about 30 seconds (quite well) then coughed and died and now won't restart... guess I missed a chunk 
It's too dark to take it apart again tonight, but at least I know what the problem is and how to fix it. And also how a carb works! I spent a while going over it and figuring it out. Always wondered how they worked. Thanks Keith_J and everyone! 
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