Posted: 9/11/2004 1:33:12 PM EDT
|
Extremely sorry if this has been discussed, as I am sure it has been, but I fail to find any info.... What is the best way to remove the pins from the stock on my AR? I cannot find a name on the stock anywhere, so I'm sorry I cannot help there, but I took a cheezy pic of it with my computer cam. I dont want to scratch or marr up my firearm, but I'd like to do the job myself as soon as the "sunsets". Thanks in advance for any help/opinions Guys. Note: Rifle is upside down, pointing inkpen at the pins, my apoligizes for the quality of the pic. ~Crpdeth 
|
|
why would you need to remove those pins? If you are planning on removing the stock from the buffer tube, I believe all you have to do is pull the stock out to its farthest positon, then pull down on the stock adjustment lever and slide the stock from the buffer tube. If its a post-ban faux slider, Im not sure if after you remove the pins, if it will just work like its pre-pan counterpart. good luck |
|
Are they roll pins? A roll pin is a long flat piece of spring steel that looks like the fruit rollup snacks. It is driven in with a pin punch and holds things in place with an outward force, or interference fit. If it is a roll pin you simply backup the part with anything that will do the work of an anvil. Could be a socket or another flat faced punch held next to the hole and drive the roll pin out with the proper sized pin punch and hammer. Tape the surfaces of your stock first to protect the finish. Good luck. |
|
Thanks Pangea Sorry once again, I didn't give enough information. Good description! Heh Heh, they are indeed roll pins as you say, the part I left out is that the holes do not go all the way through the bottom rail of the buffer tube, it appears that they drilled half way through the "rail" and stock, then hammered the pins in...So you cannot simply run it through. ~Crpdeth |
| Blind holes, huh? That means you gots to do some seriously accurate measuring, center punching exactly opposite of the existing hole, and then driving the pins out like I posted above. When you drill your new holes opposite the existing hole, make it a few thousandths larger to make the removal easier. |
|
I was afraid you were gonna say that...No chance that a drill bit ran through the pinned side, slightly larger than the pin would cause it to spin/free up, or wedge the bit inside the pin allowing you to pull it out with pliers? Grasping I know...Just hate the idea of messing up even a cheap stock. ~Crpdeth |
|
Rather than do all of that fancy measuring, get a pin drill set and drill through the "tube" that the roll pin makes. If you use the largest bit that will fit through the roll pin, you will have an almost perfectly centered pilot hole. Wanted to add. Remember, the roll pin is hard, when you back drill using you pilot hole, you will not get a perfectly clean hole due to the taper of the bit. Expect to back up the piece thyen punch the pin through. Go easy when drilling in both directions. |
|
Roll pins are some hard shit! If your gonna try to go through them you need a TiN coated bit or carbide bit. Dont go too deep. If the pin starts to spin you will gaul the aluminum and bond the pin to the aluminum.. This is called friction welding. It's how we build rockets where I come from. Good luck. |
I have a bad habit of reading one thing and thinking something else. Sorry, I misunderstood. Good instructions though! He's gonna need a tiny bit and keep backing the chips out, huh? Lubricant would be helpful too. |
|
Funny, I was just looking to see if a bit would fit, kinda accidently stumbling on the same idea Scrub just mentioned...Only problem with that is, the "tube" center of the pins, is tiny! I dont have a bit that is small enough, not to mention that tiny bits are more prone to break.... Gimme my hammer!  ~Crp |