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Thanks wildearp.
My latest project is to create some "improved" Buck 105s. These will be w2 with elk antler, 4v with ironwood, and Elmax with carbon fiber. Attached File Attached File Hamon peeking out of the w2 blade before etching. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Hamon peeking out of the w2 blade before etching. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125898/20171217_165807-393778.JPG |
Happiness=UPS+ORMD
See my youtube page at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvx8dT3bnLFUvuEQ-N3Z6rg
See my youtube page at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvx8dT3bnLFUvuEQ-N3Z6rg
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Thanks wildearp. My latest project is to create some "improved" Buck 105s. These will be w2 with elk antler, 4v with ironwood, and Elmax with carbon fiber. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125898/IMG_20171217_170344_669-393776.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125898/IMG_20171217_170344_665-393777.JPG Hamon peeking out of the w2 blade before etching. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125898/20171217_165807-393778.JPG |
Better, Faster, Cheaper - Pick Two!
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Originally Posted By stimpsonjcat: Very nice. I assume you had clay/refractory on there? The patter sure looks like it. Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By AeroEngineer: |
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It's got distinct lines and amazing "texture" in the hamon. Although your previous criticism of my beverage choices is now under question |
YNWA
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Originally Posted By stimpsonjcat:
Wow, me likey! How thick do you apply the satanite? Attached File Nominal constant thickness will reduce wispy activity and shrink the transition line. Too thick will reduce it as well. Too thin will often result in no hamon because it quenches too fast. So when I'm trying to get activity like this I interrupt my quench. W2 in Parks 50 is going to be hard after a 1 count on the quench, most of the residual heat is going to be in the spine and clay, so I do a 1 count in, 1 count out, 1 count in, 1 count out on a knife this size. The first pull out will flame up meaning the spine and clay is likely still over 700F, the second one will not and after that I'm quenching to room temp. Interrupting slows the transformation, keeping the interval short prevents heat from soaking back into the edge and auto-tempering it. |
| Probably a stupid question but why is the clay applied in a wavy fashion instead of a nice straight line? |
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Originally Posted By thebeekeeper1:
Probably a stupid question but why is the clay applied in a wavy fashion instead of a nice straight line? But for sure, in my case, it's only done for the visual effect. |
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Kuraki,
Your work is stunning! Thank you for posting your work and the behind the scene's stuff to interested but otherwise ignorant folks like me. |
Chaos, confusion, despair....my work is done here. Murphy
Did you just realize the closest you'll ever be to becoming a hero is wearing your underwear outside your pants?
Madcap72
Did you just realize the closest you'll ever be to becoming a hero is wearing your underwear outside your pants?
Madcap72
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Who's imgur account is this? Looks like yours, @Kuraki
https://imgur.com/user/steelpigforge/submitted |
Religion was born when the first con man met the first fool." --Mark Twain.
All religions are equally sublime to the ignorant, useful to the politician and ridiculous to the philosopher. Lucretius
All religions are equally sublime to the ignorant, useful to the politician and ridiculous to the philosopher. Lucretius
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Attached File Attached File Attached File It's been so damn cold I haven't been working on much finish work, instead I'm forging because I can wear gloves and stand in front of the forge. I've turned one of these billets into 3 twists, and will hopefully turn them into a multi bar Turkish twist. The other has been drawn further and I forged a raindrop pattern into it last night. Going to surface grind it today and rough grind a blade then we'll see how the pattern turned out. |
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
It's been so damn cold I haven't been working on much finish work, instead I'm forging because I can wear gloves and stand in front of the forge. January...meh. |
Happiness=UPS+ORMD
See my youtube page at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvx8dT3bnLFUvuEQ-N3Z6rg
See my youtube page at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvx8dT3bnLFUvuEQ-N3Z6rg
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125898/IMG_20180101_150612_337-413502.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125898/20180101_134253-413506.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125898/20180101_150257-413507.JPGIt's been so damn cold I haven't been working on much finish work, instead I'm forging because I can wear gloves and stand in front of the forge. I've turned one of these billets into 3 twists, and will hopefully turn them into a multi bar Turkish twist. The other has been drawn further and I forged a raindrop pattern into it last night. Going to surface grind it today and rough grind a blade then we'll see how the pattern turned out. |
YNWA
Show Me Yo Shanks
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Show Me Yo Shanks
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
These are all 15N20 and 1075. I'm kinda bummed about the edges of the pattern. Either I forged this stuff too hot, or I used too coarse of grit when I cleaned up the layers prior to welding. Was hoping for tighter transitions between layers. https://i.imgur.com/tZtBTW7.jpg |
YNWA
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Show Me Yo Shanks
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
These are all 15N20 and 1075. I'm kinda bummed about the edges of the pattern. Either I forged this stuff too hot, or I used too coarse of grit when I cleaned up the layers prior to welding. Was hoping for tighter transitions between layers. https://i.imgur.com/tZtBTW7.jpg
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Follow me on instagram: Fairwindsforge
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Originally Posted By stimpsonjcat:
Rorschach, dude, Rorschach. Originally Posted By stimpsonjcat:
Originally Posted By JoeCoastie: I'm seeing some erotica in there. Tilt your head left....when you see it. ![]()
I have a 5 week old baby, you do the math. |
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Originally Posted By JoeCoastie:
I have a 5 week old baby, you do the math. ![]() |
YNWA
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Show Me Yo Shanks
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I see a narwhal
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YNWA
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Show Me Yo Shanks
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Dorks.
But... Now I'm thinking of pattern welding this into a blade Attached File |
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Did some more forging tonight. Wrought iron and w2 san mai. Really really happy with how this turned out. Had to forge it very close and got everything centered and straight. Pretty challenging for me so I'm proud of this. Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By JoeCoastie: I'm seeing some erotica in there. Tilt your head left....when you see it. ![]() |
Chaos, confusion, despair....my work is done here. Murphy
Did you just realize the closest you'll ever be to becoming a hero is wearing your underwear outside your pants?
Madcap72
Did you just realize the closest you'll ever be to becoming a hero is wearing your underwear outside your pants?
Madcap72
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Did some more forging tonight. Wrought iron and w2 san mai. Really really happy with how this turned out. Had to forge it very close and got everything centered and straight. Pretty challenging for me so I'm proud of this. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125898/IMG_20180110_204701_802-416959.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125898/IMG_20180110_204701_800-416960.JPG Also, you made me google search Turkish twist....beautiful pattern, but I dont understand how it differs from "standard" twist damascus? I see the pattern on Turkish Twist Damascus is different, but how is the process different? |
Chaos, confusion, despair....my work is done here. Murphy
Did you just realize the closest you'll ever be to becoming a hero is wearing your underwear outside your pants?
Madcap72
Did you just realize the closest you'll ever be to becoming a hero is wearing your underwear outside your pants?
Madcap72
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Have you ever tried to make a knife or sword out of wire rope/logging cable?
I read a story of a guy that made them that way, he claimed to have made a sword that had a million folds in it due to using cable. I would imagine that it would be possible depending on how many strands it has and how many times you folded it. He said that the sword was tested on copper pipe and that it cut through with ease. |
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Originally Posted By MaxxII: What do you mean by forge it very close? Also, you made me google search Turkish twist....beautiful pattern, but I dont understand how it differs from "standard" twist damascus? I see the pattern on Turkish Twist Damascus is different, but how is the process different? The Turkish twist is different from a regular twist in that it's a composite of multiple regular twists. Say you make three bars, twist two clockwise and one counter clockwise, then stack them on top of each other and forge weld them again. That's how you get alternating angles in the final pattern. |
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Originally Posted By 50_Shooter:
Have you ever tried to make a knife or sword out of wire rope/logging cable? I read a story of a guy that made them that way, he claimed to have made a sword that had a million folds in it due to using cable. I would imagine that it would be possible depending on how many strands it has and how many times you folded it. He said that the sword was tested on copper pipe and that it cut through with ease. The down side is after around 300 layers it will begin looking like homogeneous steel. |
| Kuraki, would an old spring from a wheel disk make good steel for a knife? I have the spring that had a pig tail on top to hold the hydraulic line running to the tractor. It's about 8" long and ~2.5" thick and the spirals are probably 1/2". Good steel, being a spring? Enough to make a knife? It's from my farm so instead of tossing it into the scrap bin I'd consider having a knife made. My wife wants to go on a dog hunt for hogs and wants a 12" pig sticker. |
There is no list.
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Did some more forging tonight. Wrought iron and w2 san mai. Really really happy with how this turned out. Had to forge it very close and got everything centered and straight. Pretty challenging for me so I'm proud of this. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125898/IMG_20180110_204701_802-416959.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125898/IMG_20180110_204701_800-416960.JPG |
YNWA
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Show Me Yo Shanks
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Originally Posted By thebeekeeper1:
Kuraki, would an old spring from a wheel disk make good steel for a knife? I have the spring that had a pig tail on top to hold the hydraulic line running to the tractor. It's about 8" long and ~2.5" thick and the spirals are probably 1/2". Good steel, being a spring? Enough to make a knife? It's from my farm so instead of tossing it into the scrap bin I'd consider having a knife made. My wife wants to go on a dog hunt for hogs and wants a 12" pig sticker. |
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Originally Posted By AeroEngineer:
Any updates on the improved Buck 105 blades? |
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Originally Posted By stimpsonjcat:
Where did you get the wrought? |
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Originally Posted By GangsterGoose:
I'm going to attempt to forge my first bit of damascus soon. Any tips? 1- start small, with a low layer stack. 3 pieces. Grind the mating faces clean before stacking. 2- Figure out how to get a neutral or reducing atmosphere in your forge 3- Soak it longer than you think it needs to be. If it took 2 minutes to get to an orange yellow temp all the way through as far as you can see, give it another 2 minutes before setting the weld. 4- After setting the weld reduce the stack by drawing it out so it's the thickness of 1 original layer. More reduction=better chance of solid welds through and through 5- Test your weld. Hammer the shit out of it on the edge on one end, see if it comes apart. If your weld set, it won't. If it doesn't, grind it clean and restack for more layers. 6- Use flux. There are ways of welding without it, but I think it's easier to do it by hand using flux. I use borax with some boric acid mixed in. Borax from Ace for making detergent and boric acid roach killer. Don't spend money on super black magic flux. It's probably borax, boric acid with some charcoal in it anyway. #1 is most important. I can't tell you how many 15+ layer billets I fucked up before I got a handle on things. Start with 3 and work your way up. |
It was silly. 




