Posted: 3/12/2013 5:32:00 AM EDT
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I have a 2002 Toyota Camry and it failed the inspection test with a code of P0420. Does anyone have any experience with this? Right now I have several possibilities as to how to solve this but before I go and buy a $500 catylitic converter I wanted to run it by ARFCOM and see what the car tech guys had to offer. (I know there is an automotive section here but I believe this will get more views faster and possibly answered faster in GD. Mods if this is not OK please advise)
Thanks in Advance AKASL |
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Quoted:
I have a 2002 Toyota Camry and it failed the inspection test with a code of P0420. Does anyone have any experience with this? Right now I have several possibilities as to how to solve this but before I go and buy a $500 catylitic converter I wanted to run it by ARFCOM and see what the car tech guys had to offer. (I know there is an automotive section here but I believe this will get more views faster and possibly answered faster in GD. Mods if this is not OK please advise) Thanks in Advance AKASL Since this is GD..... Move to a state that doesnt suck ..... "failed auto inspection" does not compute |
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Could be a bad pre or post cat O2 sensor. I'd have those checked before I ponied up for a new catalytic converter.
A few other things to check: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0420 |
I'm not sure if the toyotas are the same way or not. On the fords you can go to radio shack and build a O2 Simulator and run that inline on your O2 sensor. This will fool your computer into thinking the cat is working. This only works if the cat isn't clogged. If its clogged it needs to be replaced. Of course this is only legal for an off-road vehicle only. 
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Seriously, if it turns out to be cat converter , you can get an aftermarket put on for about $160 to $240 if you shop around.
Some don't have O2 sensors so check engine light or service engine light , which ever it is on that car,will stay on , but for an O2 car wouldn't care about the light. |
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Quoted:
I'm not sure if the toyotas are the same way or not. On the fords you can go to radio shack and build a O2 Simulator and run that inline on your O2 sensor. This will fool your computer into thinking the cat is working. This only works if the cat isn't clogged. If its clogged it needs to be replaced. Of course this is only legal for an off-road vehicle only. I'll add to this that it will only pass your inspection test of they do a computer scan only. If they do a sniff test you will still fail. |
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O2 sensor  I agree with the discontent. An O2 sensor or Air/Fuel sensor will have its own specific code if it's not working. I've heard of backwoods folks just replacing a clogged cat converter with a straight pipe, but it don't pass inspection that way. |
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Quoted: Is that so? Cause I've probably replaced over 500 in the last 15 or so years of wrenching. If the O2's are bad, they will set heater codes, slow to respond codes, above or below threshold limit codes or just simply inactivity codes. The post cat O2 is monitored and should not fluctuate as the front one does indicating that the catalyst is either working or not. If anything, a lazy post catalyst oxygen sensor would be slow to set a failing catalyst code, not vice versa.Quoted: Needs a converter unless you have a big exhaust leak or some other underlying issue. 99% of the time it is the converter. Catalysts rarely fail. O2 sensors wear out and slow down as they age. If they are close to 100k, they need to be replaced. |
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Needs a converter unless you have a big exhaust leak or some other underlying issue. 99% of the time it is the converter. Catalysts rarely fail. O2 sensors wear out and slow down as they age. If they are close to 100k, they need to be replaced. I'm not a mechanic, but it is my understanding as well that cats don't fail for no reason. Typically something contaminates them, such as oil or fuel. I've heard stories (on the Internet!  ) of lazy O2 sensors slowly killing cats.
And $500 for a new cat sounds a bit insane. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Needs a converter unless you have a big exhaust leak or some other underlying issue. 99% of the time it is the converter. Catalysts rarely fail. O2 sensors wear out and slow down as they age. If they are close to 100k, they need to be replaced. I'm not a mechanic, but it is my understanding as well that cats don't fail for no reason. Typically something contaminates them, such as oil or fuel. I've heard stories (on the Internet! ) of lazy O2 sensors slowly killing cats. And $500 for a new cat sounds a bit insane. |
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OK I've checked the gas cap to make sure it's tight by ratcheting it down 1 click per the instructions on the cap and a couple more clicks for good measure. I have looked as best I can at the exhaust system and I can't see any obvious leaks. I'll run it back and forth to work tomorrow and see if it was the gas cap, if that's not the case then I'll get it on a lift and check the exhaust system better.
There are 3 larger diameter objects, inline, coming from the manifold to the muffler. The first one is obviously the flex coupling but the next one is about 7 to 8 inches long and the next one is about 18 inches long. Which one of these two will be the cat converter? Flex Coupling 
2nd unit in. line If I had to guess I would say this is the Cat 
3rd unit in line 
AKASL LIVE FREE OR DIE |
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Do yourself a favor. Get something like this. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NFJ95W/ref=asc_df_B007NFJ95W2419938?smid=A29U4CYUAUXV9Q&tag=sdcbing598-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B007NFJ95W#productDetails Making sure it matches whatever you have. Probably OBD II. (google)
Reset the damn thing. I have a check engine light go off on any number of vehicals. Wifes, my truck, sis's car, moms car, sil car.... and many, I"m goign to go with 75 percent. (Internet undocumented statistic) of the time, a reset and it doesn't come back for months if ages. I think for emissions purposes you have to drive it a bit after the reset. (not sure, stuff I've heard and read here and there. I"ll say 200 miles is about the norm) I've never failed a test either. (2001-2010 vehicles) At the very least everyone should have a code reader. The savings you'll find by not getting screwed or getting charged labor for something you can fix yourself is well worth it. |
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Quoted:
Do yourself a favor. Get something like this. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NFJ95W/ref=asc_df_B007NFJ95W2419938?smid=A29U4CYUAUXV9Q&tag=sdcbing598-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B007NFJ95W#productDetails Making sure it matches whatever you have. Probably OBD II. (google) Reset the damn thing. I have a check engine light go off on any number of vehicals. Wifes, my truck, sis's car, moms car, sil car.... and many, I"m goign to go with 75 percent. (Internet undocumented statistic) of the time, a reset and it doesn't come back for months if ages. I think for emissions purposes you have to drive it a bit after the reset. (not sure, stuff I've heard and read here and there. I"ll say 200 miles is about the norm) I've never failed a test either. (2001-2010 vehicles) At the very least everyone should have a code reader. The savings you'll find by not getting screwed or getting charged labor for something you can fix yourself is well worth it. Ordered one of the Code Readers and reset the codes, but the check engine light would come back on after driving about 50 miles. Reset the codes a couple more times trying to figure out what was causing the problem with no luck. I removed the gas cap and examined the rubber seal on the cap, that's when I found the seal had started to dry out and was not sealing properly. A trip to the parts store for a new seal and viola check engine light has not come back on in 3 days with 190 miles worth of driving. Glad I didn't take it to the garage to have someone else start replacing O2 sensors or a Cat. AKASL LIVE FREE OR DIE |