Posted: 3/9/2004 4:34:55 PM EDT
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When you put up standard sheetrock, do you lay it horizontal or vertical or doesn't it matter? What about on the ceiling? Thanks, ViCAP |
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Quoted: what's the distance from floor to ceiling? If you can get one full sheet standing up vertically (and they do sell it in lengths other than 8') then stand it up that way. While not a terrible way to do it, it is done that way mostly on commercial jobs. At least around here. The problem with that method is two fold. First you have a verticle seam every four feet that you need to try to hide with mud and tape. The second being that on stick framed houses, lumber isn't always 16 on center (or straight enough for it to break center), so you either have to do extra framing or but in a bastard joint and try to mud and tape that and make it look right. My advice is to lay it horizontal, in at least 12' lengths of sheetrock. 14' or 16' if you can break it over doors or windows, and take out butt joints. It will make the finish job look much nicer, and be easier on whomever does the mudding and taping. If you have 8' walls, get 48" rock. If you have 9' walls, get 54" rock. Oh, and sometimes it's just as cheap to go to a drywall supply place and buy it from them (they usually stock it for you), as it is to go to Home Depot or Lowes (you get to stock it yourself). Good luck! |
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when doing a wall, HORIZONTAL. You want to go perpendicular to the studs or trusses. That way, if the studs don't line up perfectly, high points in the wall are not as noticeable. Don't make 4 corners on sheetrock meet each other. Same problem. EDIT: Seamus, I think we are saying the same thing, but you have your horizontal and vertical mixed up? |
| Norman, I'm with you on that. As a Super. for a medium size GC (250 mil) on commercial projects from malls, jewelery stores, and hotels I have mostly seen it run vertically as the butt seam is much more time consuming to feather out even with Ames or Tapetech tools. It is also much easier to do that on steel studs as they are perfectly straight, not something you see in wood now a days. As a side note, don't screw off the seam all the way, that is don't sink the head of the screw (bugle head), until the next butting piece is in place. If you do it will bulge and cause a "accumulated effect" of growing the dimension from 48" to 48" 1/8", which adds up over several pieces. Just tack the piece on the edges first or in the field. |
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Pogo, you are right, I simply had a typo. Norm, with the long walls (hallways, cafeterias, etc,) found in commercial buildings, standing it up is the way to go. No doubt about it. And with the metal studs, even if they aren't straight, it's usuall not a big deal to pop out the panheads and scoot it over a tad (especially since commerical guys get paid by the hour). With residential work, it's a much better, and simpler process to hang it horizontal. And hiding the horizontal seams isn't that hard. In fact, if they show, the finisher hasn't done his job properly (again 50', 100', or more walls are another story) Even on commercial jobs, we will often do that in small rooms (14' or less), as it is easier to hang that way in small areas, and the seams don't show if you've got a decent finisher and painter. |
| If this is a residential application hang it horizontally. Not only will the joints be easier to hide but it will make the walls stronger by hanging it perpedicular to the studs. Also at the beginning of the wall hang a full sheet or as close as you can with the stud layout, and the starter piece under it should be a half sheet. Therefore your sheets don't end at the same place and also it is stronger, because the sheet above is lapping the end of the sheet below, etc. |