Resto thread-1975 mowag Roland 4-17-26 first start (Page 10 of 11)
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Originally Posted By backbencher: Would it be actually cheaper to buy a decent 4x4 1 ton in good shape, take it apart, get all the components to factory new, and then install them in a homemade welded armored shell? I don’t think so. Probably cost a lot more. |
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Only thing that’s stopping me from getting the last wheel put back together Attached File |
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All 4 wheels back on. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By backbencher: Hurrah! Going to get the vehicle sandblasted properly and painted properly once I get it running. Still working on the wheel cylinder link issue. One of my soldiers works at a machine shop so I might be able to get the replacements machined down to fit. |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: What's the engine? Put both here if you can since I'll knock this out without having to read two threads. Mowag Roland has a Chrysler LA 318 Brdm2 has a ZMZ41/gaz41 engine, kinda a ford Windsor/350 mash up. 5.5 litres 140hp |
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Originally Posted By fadedsun: Mowag Roland has a Chrysler LA 318 Brdm2 has a ZMZ41/gaz41 engine, kinda a ford Windsor/350 mash up. 5.5 litres 140hp For both IMO, you're probably better suited to run a modern Diesel rated oil. Main reason being their vintage and that diesel oils of today have the higher additive levels closer to what gasoline engine oils back then had. As to the viscosity grade, anything pulling heavier loads, running higher temps, having a PTO, etc. puts it at higher risk of sheering the oil sooner. I'm not going to say you couldn't get by with a 5W-30, but given these factors a 10W-30 would probably be more appropriate unless you lived in a very cold climate and needed the cold flow for startup. |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: I'm honestly just surprised the BRDM is gas and not Diesel. For both IMO, you're probably better suited to run a modern Diesel rated oil. Main reason being their vintage and that diesel oils of today have the higher additive levels closer to what gasoline engine oils back then had. As to the viscosity grade, anything pulling heavier loads, running higher temps, having a PTO, etc. puts it at higher risk of sheering the oil sooner. I'm not going to say you couldn't get by with a 5W-30, but given these factors a 10W-30 would probably be more appropriate unless you lived in a very cold climate and needed the cold flow for startup. Smart. I’m using rotella t5 diesel truck engine oil at the moment but I think next time I’ll go with full synthetic 10w30 t6 |
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New drive shafts ordered-one of the last pieces along with the wheel cylinder links which I had to get custom made. Oh, and need to add a ton of 75w90 to the front axle. I might be back 10/6 to around 10/9 so I'll do that then. |
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Attached File Attached File Wheel cylinder links arrived. |
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Attached File Attached File Attached File Front and rear driveshafts have arrived 
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I have a pretty big issue with the steering gearbox. It was removed in order to get access to the area under neath to clean, prime, and paint. It won’t go back the same way. The box at the bottom is flush against the mount but it’s not squared up on the top where it bolts into the dashboard. Overall Attached File You can see where it won’t slide into the mount Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File This is one of the last major things on the Roland to address. Two options and three causes A) we messed up the bottom bracket B) the top mounting bracket on the dash board is messed up. C) the gearbox is bent (not good). I’m clueless. Gonna tag some of the smartest mechanics I know here and see what they think. Fix options: A) more expensive-cut and re weld and fabricate the lower mount B) create an offset adapter for the top mounting bracket like so  @aksnowrider @batmanacw @1andy2 |
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This may be a stupid question but can you turn the steering wheel back and forth to see if that rocks the steering shaft back and forth? First loosen any bolts holding that gearbox so stuff can wobble. I'm wondering if the wonky-ness is in the shaft the gearbox connects to pushing the steering shaft over a bunch. |
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Originally Posted By batmanacw: This may be a stupid question but can you turn the steering wheel back and forth to see if that rocks the steering shaft back and forth? First loosen any bolts holding that gearbox so stuff can wobble. I'm wondering if the wonky-ness is in the shaft the gearbox connects to pushing the steering shaft over a bunch. That’s a good idea. I’m at work at the moment and I’ll try it when I get home. I have doubts I bent the lower mounting bracket because it’s really strong steel. The Swiss make nice stuff |
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Originally Posted By fadedsun: I have a pretty big issue with the steering gearbox. It was removed in order to get access to the area under neath to clean, prime, and paint. It won’t go back the same way. The box at the bottom is flush against the mount but it’s not squared up on the top where it bolts into the dashboard. Overall https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/51435/IMG_5309_jpeg-3709520.JPG You can see where it won’t slide into the mount https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/51435/IMG_5307_jpeg-3709521.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/51435/IMG_5306_jpeg-3709522.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/51435/IMG_5302_jpeg-3709523.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/51435/IMG_5304_jpeg-3709524.JPG This is one of the last major things on the Roland to address. Two options and three causes A) we messed up the bottom bracket B) the top mounting bracket on the dash board is messed up. C) the gearbox is bent (not good). I’m clueless. Gonna tag some of the smartest mechanics I know here and see what they think. Fix options: A) more expensive-cut and re weld and fabricate the lower mount B) create an offset adapter for the top mounting bracket like so https://i.postimg.cc/SKpYgTQ8/att-il-Pxov-UUCIvsl-Kts-Cf-Tgb-N63f6Qs-B1c-Kyg-AGBb-Tz-TQM.jpg @aksnowrider @batmanacw @1andy2 Start measuring and looking, something isn't aligning right, Box/column doesn't look bent the black bracket the box bolts to looks like the top ear might be bent toward the passenger side, that is the only thing I notice from the pics, it could be an optical illusion but it sure looks like that ear is bent over a bit, which would cause the top of the column to be off the mount toward the passenger side... Look at the top ear for the box in this pic... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/51435/IMG_5304_jpeg-3709524.JPG |
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Originally Posted By fadedsun: https://i.postimg.cc/jd3DR8XC/IMG_5282.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/K8KRjnqY/IMG_5283.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/Ghg4bMQY/IMG_5284.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/xTpX9sRm/IMG_5285.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/0y6bjpWz/IMG_5286.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/W1DhzMWG/IMG_5289.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/2SqVy4ch/IMG_5291.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/vZ1cTWqX/IMG_5292.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/0y6bjpWW/IMG_5295.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/3xydNgSL/IMG_5294.jpg Also, if you look at the slip yoke on your new driveshaft, it is over extended, send it back, the blue plastic should not be visible when the shaft is bolted in, even when the suspension is fully extended...That will eat itself up and vibrate in short order, not to mention how much dirt can get into the splines.....Normal is the slip yoke splines should never be outside the yoke, the end of the yoke should be fully covering the splines and only the smooth part of the shaft above the splines should be visible when installed... ETA, I just looked at the drivelines again..fully splined shafts..you need rubber boots to cover them, still need to make sure the yokes have the right amount of engagement, the blue plastic on the splines should not be seen when installed...it should be inside the yoke in all movement of the yoke/suspension... Make sure they have the correct engagement and get the right boots to cover the splines so they stay clean... |
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Originally Posted By AKSnowRider: Start measuring and looking, something isn't aligning right, Box/column doesn't look bent the black bracket the box bolts to looks like the top ear might be bent toward the passenger side, that is the only thing I notice from the pics, it could be an optical illusion but it sure looks like that ear is bent over a bit, which would cause the top of the column to be off the mount toward the passenger side... Look at the top ear for the box in this pic... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/51435/IMG_5304_jpeg-3709524.JPG Very good observation. |
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Attached File These wheel cylinder links worked perfectly and fit like a glove. Will never rust and also weight 1/2 as much as the originals for a savings of an ounce each 
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https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=660 Replacement map reading lights. I need a handful. Thankfully spares are common, I will stuff an LED in there later. Spiders built nests inside all of the ones in the Roland that I took out. Attached File |
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Attached File Attached File |
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It started today and ran. Major step forward. Attached File It didn’t run on the fuel in the tank, however. It sounds extremely loud without any muffler because it literally has 6” of pipe coming off the headers All the turn signals and lights worked. Attached File Saturday or Sunday I might plumb in the temp fuel tank and 12vdc fuel pump to get it running on its own internal fuel. The front steering gearbox is fully attached. It’s missing the rear brake splitter line so couldn’t bleed the brakes. You can see where it spilled about 5 gallons of coolant everywhere  |
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Originally Posted By fadedsun: It started today and ran. Major step forward. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/51435/IMG_9163_jpeg-3748361.JPG It didn't run on the fuel in the tank, however. It sounds extremely loud without any muffler because it literally has 6" of pipe coming off the headers All the turn signals and lights worked. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/51435/IMG_9169_jpeg-3748359.JPG Saturday or Sunday I might plumb in the temp fuel tank and 12vdc fuel pump to get it running on its own internal fuel. The front steering gearbox is fully attached. It's missing the rear brake splitter line so couldn't bleed the brakes. You can see where it spilled about 5 gallons of coolant everywhere |
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Originally Posted By ARHank: What was wrong with the gearbox? Bent? User error? I believe the paint caused higher tolerances and more resistance in getting in in the tube. |
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Originally Posted By backbencher: Congrats. Thanks Goals for today: Measure steering box mounting bolts mount/secure Install 12vdc fuel pump and plumbing Reinstall floor plates/accelerator Remove front brake line, use as clone to Get made for rear at hundley Eventual goals this week: Spare key/keys Remove vision blocks Order new vision blocks Bleed brakes Change rear diff oil Air filter setup Replace brake reservoir caps (they’re falling apart) |
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Appears we had carb issues-here is a video of it running before the carb tear down and rebuild. https://youtube.com/shorts/W6XxVU0Vbyw?si=Mp_LQAqchPg0n13_ It’s running on its own mechanical pump and its own fuel tank. Will reinstall tomorrow and go from there and also pull the brake hose to get remade. |
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Bolts and nuts ordered to secure the steering gear at the base. Carb to be reinstalled today. Brake hose removed to be used as clone for the rear. |
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The f’ing front brake hose is STUCK to the inside line fitting.  Attached File Attached File Going to hit it with the penetrating oil and a heat gun then try again. Trying to find periscopes so I can drive it under armor. I need 2 more to replace the broken ones-I already have 1 in perfect condition. I can fit a passive night vision periscope but that’s more money but is actually available-the periscopes are not available in unmanaged/smashed condition. Attached File Attached File Right now it has no pipes after the headers. Due to the location of the rear passenger he gets the full heat and noise of the engine so the rear engineer covers have been thermal and noise insulated with upgraded seals. I will probably get an exhaust shop to install pipes with modern mufflers and perhaps ceramic coated headers. The seal situation has been resolved. Once the exterior is sandblasted I’ll wrap the door/hatch edges with this foam sealant/gasket and call it a day. One 13 foot section should handle a single door and a hatch. Attached File Sunday I’ll try to get at it and work with the amazing m35Ben and get the carb reinstalled and the brake hose out. At some point I am going to drill out the rusted and corroded drainage bolt holes in the hull and re thread for something in the same size. |
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The center periscope area on the drivers station accommodates an anvvs2 night vision device.  M1A1 Night fire from driver view Attached File I only need 1 new periscope now. Not this week but the next week we will hopefully have the Roland running and driving. Things to do to run: Reinstall carb Pull brake line, make, re install Bleed brakes air filter To complete- re-install front gas pedal assembly reinstall seats-driver 3x pass turret Touch up paint inside Replace vision blocks with acryillic pieces Seals x6 rear door two side doors top hatch turret driver roll axle sandblast prime/paint find 1 more periscope leopard 1 NVG periscope Tachometer Exhaust fan new tires Exhaust ceramic coated new mufflers down pipe headers |
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Originally Posted By backbencher: USB camera/5" display? One of my Dutch friends has something similar for his brdm but it’s a larger screen and has more cameras on the sides and rear and front.  April 26, 2026 Sirens work. Scared the brakes off the neighbors (as if a no muffler v8 didn’t) It starts up almost immediately every time now and idles really nicely. https://youtube.com/shorts/mTWgWyruAKs?si=yHPkhPfAcTCkbwzW Starting to put it back together. Getting the brake hose made for the rear. Should be running and driving by the end of next month |
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Went to get the hose made and the shop won't touch it because it's for an "on road" vehicle and the DOT rated machine is not working at the moment. Asked what the hose was for and they were clueless. Sigh. Now I have to drive 2 hours to get this hose made because nobody in johnson county has a DOT rated hose crimping machine. Sourced an air filter for the 2 5/8ths carb and found the original relocator piece. I'll wire brush it and paint it later. Attached File Attached File Attached File New keys being ordered Attached File Attached File |
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The original armored windows are basically unavailable. Not a problem, I can take custom cut lexan sheets to a certain size and press them together inside the armored glass holders. Poly carb is also still resistant to bullets and just as armored as the original. Price is a lot less-100$ for each view port so 6 in total. I'll order one to make sure it works and fits and that'll be good enough.  9MM VS BULLETPROOF GLASS VS LEXAN SHEET |
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Attached File New brake hoses. 4 hour round trip to get these. Had to drive from Cleburne to north dallas and also deal with traffic Now the brakes can be bled and we can possibly go for a drive
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Originally Posted By MaxxII: Making good progress man! I’m anticipating a road test soon. All i need to do I put the brake hoses and lines on, air filter,bleed the brakes, install the accelerator assembly and the drivers seat and go from there Attached File Attached File Attached File Rusty and nasty air relocator piece was stripped and power coated. Extra brake hoses
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Attached File Air relocator installed, the air filter kit was allegedly delivered but I can’t find it near my mailbox. |
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The air filter I just bought is too tall for the engine bay and whacks the armored engine deck. The extra edelbrock I have laying around fits perfectly but the threaded post was too short. Attached File Solution? Stick the 14” edelbrock air filter assembly on the brdm with a new element (old one was moldy) and order a new, shorter air filter assembly that’s only 2” tall and will leave plenty of room for the threaded post as the 14” air filter element is 3” tall. Plenty of room. The brdm engine bay has unlimited space comparatively. Have all the periscopes I need for the front. One is basically NOS the other has handling/storage marks. Attached File |
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Attached File Attached File |
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Carb off. Drums off. Going to get the drums turned a bit to make them a little more loose, get the float fixed on the carb, and contact the brake hose company because the hoses aren’t a match. Attached File |
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Carb has been fixed. The brake hoses Don’t fit because the hose shop did them wrong so Monday I’ll head out to garland from south DFW and get it fixed. Thankfully I have the receipt and they will fix it. Drums have been turned down a little bit so the shoes have space to be adjusted. Attached File |
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We are all dogs in God’s hot car of life
Thank you UKjohn for the membership!
We are all dogs in God’s hot car of life
Thank you UKjohn for the membership!
Arfcom's favorite midnight DG shelf stocker
Joined:
Apr 2004
Posts:
75251
EE: 100% (26)
UKR
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Attached File Drove 5 hours there and back to get the hoses remade. Attached File While wrenching on the top of the engine bay a nut fell into the intake. Not a good moment. I bought some magnets from harbor freight, they’re too big to make it past the intake. I ordered a micro magnet one and it squeezed past it and on the second try the nut came out at the end of the magnet. I was overjoyed. No need to take off the intake manifold to fish it out. 
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connoisseur of fine Soviet and European armored vehicles since 2007.
We are all dogs in God’s hot car of life
Thank you UKjohn for the membership!
We are all dogs in God’s hot car of life
Thank you UKjohn for the membership!
Resto thread-1975 mowag Roland 4-17-26 first start (Page 10 of 11)
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