Posted: 7/16/2010 8:06:45 AM EDT
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Battery was leaking. Also, what type of paint/primer/sealer is best? It's a semi-collectible car, so I want to do it right. Thanks in advance. You guys have never let me down.
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Go here. should answer all you need
Click Be sure to read all the way through. EBR666 |
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Good thread, but I can't use the electrolysis method. The parts are welded inside my engine compartment. |
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Quoted: They sell some stuff in the hardware store out this way called Naval Jelly, (ok, get your yuks out now... Naval Jelly (phosphoric acid) was my first though, but I was wondering if there was a better product on the market by now. Can anybody recommend a paint or primer to use? There is still going to be some rust in areas under the pan that I can't reach. |
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This is great for rust on car sheet metal:
http://www.por15.com |
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Quoted:
Do they sell those at harbor freight? Quoted:
Bake out cycle in a vacumm furnace.. Works everytime its tried.. Just make sure you remove any aluminum or zinc first.. Eutectics can be a real bitch sometimes. You can buy used small ones but they can get prety pricey. The ones at work range from $750K to $2.5M. BTW.. Rust will flash all over the item being heat treated. It sort of fills in the pits in the metal. |
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Quoted: 1) scraper and wire brush 2) naval jelly 3) rust converter 4) corrosion resistant paint +1. Wash the area with baking soda and water and then soapy water to eliminate the acid residue. Remove any rust scale with a wire brush. Use a rust catalyst, home depot/lowes and almost all parts stores have it under different brand names. Ospho, "Prep and Prime", "Prep and Etch", "Right Stuff" etc, any variation of rust catalysts with phosphoric acid will do it. Let the area dry after cleaning scraping, use a brush to douse it liberally with rust catalyst, let dry and paint with rustoleum spray paint, let dry and spray with a can of automotive rubber undercoating to prevent future mishaps. profit? |
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I use this company. http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions/removal.html |


