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Posted: 9/11/2020 1:51:07 PM EDT
Hi guys, i am on holidays and, because of the bad weather, i wondered gun forums for a couple days. I read many different opinions on the use of CLP and gun grease on guns.
i live in a very swampy, humid enviroment and the humidity Is controlled in my gun room, going from 50 to 56%, very rarely and for maximum a few hours It can touch the 60-61%: 1) for LONG TERM STORAGE i use RIG gun Grease. I apply It with a cotton cloth on every metal surface basically. I use It for the gun i collect and i don't shoot often. I apply It with a q-tip in areas i can't reach with the cloth. Then i spray a bit of ballistol in the bore. 2) for SHORT TERM STORAGE (for guns i use hunting or i shoot often at the range) i use ballistol CLP (very popular in europe). It Is a spray can so i spray It on ALL metal surfaces and Also on the inside of guns. Of course i don't lube the guns so much that there Is oil dripping out but i lube them quite a bit. On external surfaces i then wipe the oil with a cotton cloth to make the oil film even. Internal surfaces remain oiled quite a bit. I definitely don't use CLP in microscopic amounts as many suggest. i clean my guns After every range session so there are no visibile build ups of oil mixed with carbon or other residues on metal to metal contact surfaces. Only my self defense pistol (a g17 which Is Always loaded and ready to rock) Is almost not lubricated because i don't want It to be slicky while manipulating It. I don't get some point of using minimal quantities of CLP other than shooting the gun without cleaning It After every range session and operating in a really Dusty and Sandy enviroment. For example, if you clean a Glock lower, why don't Just spraying a bit of CLP on everything in moderate quantity instead of dripping a few drops on the metal to metal contact areas as i have seen reccomended by many? This process seem to be very time consuming and i don't get the advantages for my case. Do you think something Is wrong with my current practice? What would you change? As always, thank you very much Advance! |
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I love Break Free. I'll clean and lube, wipe it down after 24 hours, then put it in a silicone sock.
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You should really try CherryBalmz grease. I use it on everything from my grenade launcher to my beltfeds. It’s stays put even in the desert heat and is the only thing I’ve used the past 6 years. Can not recommend it enough.
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Smarter people will be along shortly.
For me, I have never understood the concept on a technical level. How can something that cleans, also lubricate? My cleaners remove lubricant. My lubes only are for bearing surfaces, I use a protectant on the rest. How does the lube know where to go, and the protectant know where not to be? No, seriously though. If my collateral job was maintaining a company sized armory, CLP would be good enough. It makes no sense to me when there are other products available. |
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CLP is something different here. I use CLP and Ballistol, but not for the same purposes.
I use Swiss automatenfett for some sliding surfaces, synthetic motor oil on others. CLP is a general use kind of product in my line up. RIG for anything going into long term storage. If it runs and isn't rusty, you're doing it right. Any oil is better than no oil. |
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You’re about to get a hundred different answers.
I use ballistol and call it a day. |
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BreakFree is ok and many people use it, but does not last long.
FP-10 and WeaponShield are very good. Here in South Florida the humidity rarely goes below 80% and FP-10/WeaponShield has remained on gun surfaces with no issues. I have no experience with CherryBalmz, but I have heard it stays on the surfaces extremely well. |
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There was a gentleman who tested out 46 different types of rust preventatives; I have gone with hornady one shot ever since. No complaints.
Link You can also reduce the humidity quite a bit with silica beads in Muslin bags. Defrost every few months and they pick up humidity. |
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Quoted: There was a gentleman who tested out 46 different types of rust preventatives; I have gone with hornady one shot ever since. No complaints. Link You can also reduce the humidity quite a bit with silica beads in Muslin bags. Defrost every few months and they pick up humidity. View Quote WD-40 specialist was at or near the top. It’s pretty easy to find. I’ll have to check it out. |
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Get cherrybalmz for lubrication and G96 for rust protection if you can get it
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Thanks for the answers guys. I am afraid these products are not available or cost a lot here. I Will probably Stick with ballistol for short term storage of guns i use quite a bit or for guns that have modern surface treatments (such as my Colt LE's). Ballistol itself call It "the First CLP" so i think It actually is a CLP. I Just don't understand why not many seem to spray the CLP on all the external and internal metal surfaces. Spraying ballistol from 20 cm away create a nice pretty omogeneous film of oil without being forced to pass the CLP in every angle, maybe difficult to reach.
Of course for the attraction of sand/dirt i wouldn't run a military/duty/carry gun dripping oil, i would probably lubricated It as Little as necessary to reduce metal to metal friction (making the gun more reliable and reducing the wear). But for civilian sporting use or even training, let's Say for a gun that you shoot twice a month, where Is the advantage of giving It less lubricant since It server Also as a protective film against rust? Of course ballistol evaporates After some months but since It Is on the gun, It definitely protects it against corrosion. For long storage i feel very well |
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Quoted: For your G17, spraying down the lower will just attract dirt/dust/gunk. This is all the lube a GLock needs: https://www.everydaynodaysoff.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Glock-Pistol-Lubrication-Guide.jpg View Quote See my last answer. I understand why for a carry gun or any other gun that must be Always ready to rock, especially outdoor, using too much lubricant Is not a good idea. I have never seen some military or Police personnel with guns soaked in oil. It Just don't make sense, that's why as i said above my g17 Is basically dry. It's for my other guns, which i store/use for training/use for fun, that i don't see why i shouldn't use more CLP. There are many videos, for example, about how to lubricated a glock: most suggest basically what you attached here but They do not specify the application of the gun. I think that, when They Say that overlubing can cause more trouble than non lubing at all, They should specify that this Is valid (arguably) for duty or carry guns. Did i explain myself? What do you think? @mcantu |
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Quoted: CLP is something different here. I use CLP and Ballistol, but not for the same purposes. I use Swiss automatenfett for some sliding surfaces, synthetic motor oil on others. CLP is a general use kind of product in my line up. RIG for anything going into long term storage. If it runs and isn't rusty, you're doing it right. Any oil is better than no oil. View Quote Ballistol defines it's product as "the First CLP" on their website Anyway, i never had rust issues since inise these methods Never had a single malfunction from my military type guns/from my pistols. There Is a bias anyway, in this category of firearms i only buy Colt ar's, Glock/beretta pistols. These bad girls usually work pretty well. Also my 1942 beretta 34 shot more or less 500 rounds without a single hiccup :) |
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I weaponshield all the things. It makes for great cologne too. Has a very pleasant aroma.
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Never had a problem with CLP. Saw a corrosion test online and it came out on top. I only clean and wipe guns down with it. I use other stuff for fouling, like Sweet’s. I use grease on rails carriers etc. stays put.
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Quoted: Quoted: You should really try CherryBalmz grease. I use it on everything from my grenade launcher to my beltfeds. It’s stays put even in the desert heat and is the only thing I’ve used the past 6 years. Can not recommend it enough. Grenade Launcher? You are a lucky man Just one of the ponies in the stable Attached File |
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Cherrybalmz for lube, and Eezox is the best rust preventive out there
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Quoted: There was a gentleman who tested out 46 different types of rust preventatives; I have gone with hornady one shot ever since. No complaints. Link You can also reduce the humidity quite a bit with silica beads in Muslin bags. Defrost every few months and they pick up humidity. View Quote Wow Froglube |
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I like CLP for short-term lubrication (immediately pre-range trip) and it’s ok for cleaning. I do not like it at all for rust prevention. It seems to evaporate or sweat off pretty quick and my Glock 43 I carry every day has some serious internal rust problems as a result of relying Breakfree CLP for a while in humid environments (Florida).
I’ve switched to lubricating and protecting my weapons with synthetic high-temp grease. It stays in place for a long time even when I’m in humid conditions and it stops rust in its tracks. For cleaning, I typically use dedicated solvents and then I regrease. However, if I blast stuff with CLP right before I shoot it, it’ll keep the gun running smooth and makes it a lot easier to clean afterwards. |
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Quoted: I like CLP for short-term lubrication (immediately pre-range trip) and it’s ok for cleaning. I do not like it at all for rust prevention. It seems to evaporate or sweat off pretty quick and my Glock 43 I carry every day has some serious internal rust problems as a result of relying Breakfree CLP for a while in humid environments (Florida). I’ve switched to lubricating and protecting my weapons with synthetic high-temp grease. It stays in place for a long time even when I’m in humid conditions and it stops rust in its tracks. For cleaning, I typically use dedicated solvents and then I regrease. However, if I blast stuff with CLP right before I shoot it, it’ll keep the gun running smooth and makes it a lot easier to clean afterwards. View Quote Thanks for the input. I Guess the rust preventivo role of CLP depends on the features of the CLP itself and on how you use the gun. The ballistol, if the gun sits in the safe, Is still there After at least a month in my experience, even if we talk of a thin layer of oil. Rig Grease stays put Forever. I noticed that a good amount of CLP makes everything works smooth at the range: that's why when i go to the range i tipocally wipe a bit of oil or Grease off from the external surface of the gun while i leave the CLP on the internals there. It Will in part evaporate while shooting but It Will reduce friction inside the firearm to a minimum. Applying a few drops in strategica points should work but It won't give Also a corrosion protection of the internals (even if limited in your experience) and applying It in that way Is much more time consuming and than Just keeping the gun at 20-30 cm from a ballistol can and lightly spraying the product on It. It won't be soaked in oil but there Will be a thin film of It on every surface. Maybe the typical CLP Is not in a spray can? @HammerHammer |
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i use breakfree for guns, but tag for sword oil ideas. CLP and mineral oil don't hold up during a 90 minute practice--need something with a little more viscosity.
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Quoted: Thanks for the input. I Guess the rust preventivo role of CLP depends on the features of the CLP itself and on how you use the gun. The ballistol, if the gun sits in the safe, Is still there After at least a month in my experience, even if we talk of a thin layer of oil. Rig Grease stays put Forever. I noticed that a good amount of CLP makes everything works smooth at the range: that's why when i go to the range i tipocally wipe a bit of oil or Grease off from the external surface of the gun while i leave the CLP on the internals there. It Will in part evaporate while shooting but It Will reduce friction inside the firearm to a minimum. Applying a few drops in strategica points should work but It won't give Also a corrosion protection of the internals (even if limited in your experience) and applying It in that way Is much more time consuming and than Just keeping the gun at 20-30 cm from a ballistol can and lightly spraying the product on It. It won't be soaked in oil but there Will be a thin film of It on every surface. Maybe the typical CLP Is not in a spray can? @HammerHammer View Quote Yes, CLP has a lot of good uses and I still use it for certain applications; just not for long term lubrication and rust prevention. If you’re applying it very often then it probably prevents rust as well as any other oil. I forgot to mention it before but regular Mobil-1 synthetic motor oil is actually a very good and long lasting gun oil too - and cheaper than normal gun oil. I am using non-aerosol CLP in a normal drip bottle. I believe they both have their own merits but the spray version has less viscosity and wears off faster, though it is easier to apply. All versions seem to do a fine job of lubricating the internal parts. |
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RIG is as good as it gets.
I use CLP or Mobil One synthetic oil for lube, or Grease that require it. I've lived in Florida for over 40 years, most of those near the beach or actually living in a waterfront home, and I've never had a gun rust. I go by the old adage, if it slides grease it, if it rotates oil it. |
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Quoted: Yes, CLP has a lot of good uses and I still use it for certain applications; just not for long term lubrication and rust prevention. If you’re applying it very often then it probably prevents rust as well as any other oil. I forgot to mention it before but regular Mobil-1 synthetic motor oil is actually a very good and long lasting gun oil too - and cheaper than normal gun oil. I am using non-aerosol CLP in a normal drip bottle. I believe they both have their own merits but the spray version has less viscosity and wears off faster, though it is easier to apply. All versions seem to do a fine job of lubricating the internal parts. View Quote I see your point, thanks for the answer |
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I have always lubed my guns just as you do, ssimo. Spray them down with CLP and wipe off excess, for guns that I shoot regularly. Grease and thicker oils for long term storage.
I have never had a problem. |
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Quoted: Do you think something Is wrong with my current practice? View Quote No. If you're keeping them from rusting and keeping them lubed, you're good. People obsess over this issue, but you're doing just fine. |
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Quoted: RIG is as good as it gets. I use CLP or Mobil One synthetic oil for lube, or Grease that require it. I've lived in Florida for over 40 years, most of those near the beach or actually living in a waterfront home, and I've never had a gun rust. I go by the old adage, if it slides grease it, if it rotates oil it. View Quote QFT. |
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Quoted: For your G17, spraying down the lower will just attract dirt/dust/gunk. This is all the lube a GLock needs: https://www.everydaynodaysoff.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Glock-Pistol-Lubrication-Guide.jpg View Quote I ignore that and have never had a lubrication related stoppage in tens of thousands of rounds. |
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Quoted: I ignore that and have never had a lubrication related stoppage in tens of thousands of rounds. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: For your G17, spraying down the lower will just attract dirt/dust/gunk. This is all the lube a GLock needs: https://www.everydaynodaysoff.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Glock-Pistol-Lubrication-Guide.jpg I ignore that and have never had a lubrication related stoppage in tens of thousands of rounds. I agree completely, I’ve never lubed anything in or around the firing pin and had no issues. Hicock45 also doesn’t recommend any lube inside the Glock action and he shoots more than almost anyone. A little Cherrybalmz on the rail contact points and barrel mating surfaces and you’re good to go |
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If two surfaces slide and contact, lube (grease, heavy oil) is best.
If one surface does not contact with anything, rust preventative (Ballistol, CLP, any oil) is needed. Grease can collect dust/grime. A little goes a long way. |
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Quoted: Slip2000 EWL all things. View Quote I use Slip2000 EWL for lube and Eezox for corrosion protection. |
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